Saint Lucia

A great sleep with air conditioning running all night. Brian, still shaken by the murder of Ralph and Kathy, locks everything down even though we are on a dock with security.
Laundry was gathered andLeer más
A great sleep with air conditioning running all night. Brian, still shaken by the murder of Ralph and Kathy, locks everything down even though we are on a dock with security.
Laundry was gathered and picked up at the dockside (by Pat on golf carts that go zooming by). Garbage is also collected right at the slip and people continue to stream by. One couple came and recalled Brian’s carnage last year (hand in cast and wife left), wondering who I was in the mix. A bit awkward but I tell them we are a new couple.
I work for a bit and then we make our way to the town of Rodney Bay, and then beyond to Reduit Beach (by the Starfish Hotel).
We walk the beach and then decide to go for a little swim. It is fun to play in the water beside Brian! He didn’t do any art, but it poured rain and I was worried his pad would get soaked, so covered it up. While waiting the rain out, under a big tree, we snapped a few selfies, which Brian later posted to Facebook (inflaming his “soon to be ex” as he calls Karen, and exposing our new found love to the world).
On our way back from the beach we stop at the grocery store and pick up a few things, including Quality Street candy in the form of a chocolate bar. In the evening we went for drinks with a number of the Salty Dawgs that were at the marina as well. It was nice to socialize, but it was loud and we didn’t stay for to long. (Cathy, Brian, Phill (Dragonfly), Fred (Isola), Barry (Momentum), Ted (Raven), Bob (Pandora), Nikki, Heather, Barbara, Bill & Maureen (Kalunamoo), Muna, Anne.
Back to the boat to watch more Mid Summers Night Dream and to bed.Leer más
Up early and had coffee, writing, nice breakfast and then dealt with gathering the stern anchor. While we were out with the dinghy Daniel flagged us. He was having trouble with his dinghy engine and wanted a ride to La Morin (a considerable distance via dinghy). Brian suggested he might sail there, but Daniel asked if we would see if any other boats would take him…. As we were leaving in the opposite direction. We spoke to a Catamaran in the bay and they were also from Brittany — we explained Daniels situation and the guy said he would go help. As we were leaving and hoisting the anchor he headed over. We lamented to leave our newfound friend but we were moving to Saint Lucia, some 35miles away.
Sails up and we had a wonderful crossing to Rodney Bay. As we entered the harbour we saw Kalunamoo coming in as well. The plan was to go to the marina and Brian hailed them on VHF and they offered F1, but he wasn’t sure where it was so we said we would get back to them, but couldn’t reach. Brian called them on the phone but continued to proceed to the Marina, looking for F1. We were going to the very end on the main dock. I had to yell at the water taxi guy to move his boat so we could back in. Always a little unnerving but Brian did a great job.
We went to check in and it went smoothly…. Also stopped to buy fruit from the stands and local fruit boat.
This is the exact same location Brian was in early last February when his marriage dissolved and his wife left, to never return to the boat except to gather her things in Maine. I suspect it will be difficult memories for him (and Karen and he speaks to her often).
He was at the marina for 5 week last time, so he knows ALOT of the workers and people at the dock. We went for a walk of the docks, and visited a boat called Aquarella that he remember from last year (Evelyn and Terry). She does watercolours and invited us aboard to see some of them.
It was nice to be at dock and have access to showers and toilets and restaurants although we both had sea legs for awhile.
We went to eat at the sushi restaurant in the evening before returning to Lorena. We are hooked up to shore power which means not having to run the generator or worry about power for a few days. We decided to watch another version of Mid Summer Nights Dream ~ director, Julie Taymore. As I am not a TV person we only got through part of it before retiring to bed.Leer más
After breakfast I had some emails to respond to, so Brian went out with the dingy again and did another pastel. He is always happier when he is doing art.
We watch an older boat (and solo sailor) come in an anchor under sail. Impressive! As we were leaving to go explore, we stopped by his boat and chatted. He was French and invited us over for a brief drink at 6pm. We accepted and then headed off for the day. We walked over to the next cove (the nude beach) and then to the Plage de Saline. Fun to chat and people watch but it was really hot! We found a nice private spot before the beach to go for a swim and we hit it on our way back too.
Then I showed Brian my little yoga spot, played peekaboo with Lorena and walked to Pte Catherine where we could be the bay well! The photo of the white and blue box was a contraption to catch land crabs. They put the box over the large holes with some bait at the end which triggers it to shut.
Back to the boat on our own water taxi in the bushes. We showered and prepared some chesse and crackers to take to Daniel. He was an interesting and eclectic guy and sweet to me. He was about 80+ and had always dreamed of having a boat to spend a winter in the Caribbean. This season he bought a boat in La Morin (spending most of his money) and his wife and family didn’t want to crew with him, so he has had other crew or done it alone. However, he has encountered many many problems and was really fed up with this journey, so he was leaving his boat in La Morin and going back to Brittany, France. It was a lovely evening and he was taken with how smart Brian was about France, French politics and speaking French…. I understood lots but added very little to the conversation. Eventually I need to up my language game.
Back to Lorena for a late super and bed as I barely slept the night before (and moved to the v-berth). The rolling swells isn’t great for an anchorage but the spot itself is beautiful!
Tomorrow we leave.Leer más
We read and wrote as usual and then I did some work while Brian took the dinghy and did a pastel.
Later in the day, we hoped on the dingy and went for a walk and swim on the beach that Brian did a pastel. We anchored the dinghy , swam around and walked too. It is a beautiful area that is somewhat secluded (clothing optional beaches).
Word about the disappearance of a Salty Dawg couple (the association that Brian is part of), has really disturbing Brian. It would seem the couple were boarded by escape prisoners and killed and thrown overboard, and the boat was taken to Saint Vincent by the prisoners, found by other sailors and the guys captured. Such a sad story!
Then I was serenaded with a Shakespeare sonnet about the Fall of life 💕Leer más
Up and had our coffee and writing before deciding to move. Mid morning we hoisted anchor and the boat in front of us had to move. We sailed (motored) around the corner to a bay but didn’t like how shallow it was, so we turned around and went to Anse Moustique.
We went for a swim and then I had work to do, and Brian was hoping to do a pastel from the boat, but decided otherwise.
We took the dinghy to shore and went for a walk to the other beach in the cove we tried to anchor in.
Brian did a pastel and I went a little ways further and did yoga in my Canadian Underwear for an hour. My face in the sun on a little patch of sand and Lorena lurking in the distance … bliss!
The roll was significant, so we got the stern anchor out and kedged a couple times when we got back, which settled it somewhat.
Beautiful sunset and an okay sleep as the boat was being tossed about more than usual.Leer más
Worked most of the day on the computer while Brian installed the heat shield over the exhaust riser. Also spent two hours on the phone to CRA trying to find out why the online portal was saying I owed nearly $20k, when I know I have paid everything up. In the end, after long conversations, turns out they owe me money! PHEW!
We went for a little dip and talked to the boat in front of us, as it seems they may be overtop of our anchor and we plan on moving tomorrow. They agreed to move if we had trouble.
We got cleaned up and then headed to Sainte Anne for supper. When we got to the dock, three people (Turkish) explained that there dinghy had been stolen and they needed a drive back to there boat, so Brian took them and all there groceries and I waited for him to return…. Taking some me time to meditate on the edge of the dock.
We walked around and found La Dunette, where we had some water, coffee and a virgin drink as the restaurant didn’t start serving untill 7pm. We ordered (me Shrimp and Christopine and Brian Steak). We could see the dinghy dock the whole time and the sunset was beautiful. We had Panna Cotta for desert and then headed back to the boat. We found Lorena in the dark without much effort and retired shortly thereafter. Brian has been encouraging me to speak/ learn French so we have been reading Francis Ponge poetry in French ~ Pluie.Leer más
This morning we decided to invite Kevin and Cindy over (as she was sick the day before), and then invited Bill and Maureen and a few from La Marin (that we didn’t expect to make the journey out ~ Joe and Edwin).
Mid morning we headed back into La Marin but not without a hiccup. In the channel, we were going a little faster and the dinghy engine suddenly stopped again. We tried to restart without luck, but a sailboat was motoring past and flagged down another dinghy who offered to help. Turns out he was a Canadian from Quebec who towed us to the gas dock, where we refuelled, and gratefully the engine started again (perhaps water in the fuel tank from earlier rain).
On land we wanted a heat shield (so we could utilize power from the alternator while underway), teak and wood to fix up the aft cabin and load up on groceries. We wanted to go to a bigger store, so we walked and walked to find it. Then we walked more to try and find the teak place that was closed (as most shops are for 2-3 hours in the afternoon). We walked back to get the dingy and brought it to the back of Price Leader. We had stopped in there to get some snacks and walked behind the building, to the dock, earlier to have a picnic of cheese, dates, ham, and pear. Upon our return, we went to the teak place (Caribe Menuiserie) but they do not sell teak veneer and suggested further south.
We found Carrefore but food was more expensive and many shelves were still empty. There is nothing gluten free on the French islands… I am hoping to find some granola and hemp seeds in Saint Lucia as I’m nearly out. We went back to Price Leader to grab a few cheaper things (cheese) and filled the dinghy with 4 bags of groceries as well as a heat shield and large cable ties that we picked up earlier. The heat had gotten to me and I was simply exhausted (maybe heat stroke).
We took it slow as we returned to the boat. I wanted a nap but Brian suggested a swim, so we did so. Then we decided to swim to Kalunamoo (Bill and Maureen) to see if they were coming over tonight. Maureen wasn’t feeling well, but Bill was coming (Kevin declined as well since Cindy wasn’t feeling good, as did the others).
On the swim back I swallowed some water as I was so tired. We washed off and got ready for Bill.
He is an interesting man, Brian gave him a tour of the boat and then he talked about his work in NYC, his love for sailing and journey to living aboard. Brian, sensing I was fading fast as was he, wrapped up the conversation and went below to take an imaginary call as I said goodbye to Bill.
We grilled pork chops for supper, nice to have the grill working again, and then went to bed.Leer más
More boat chores today, glossing the window frames, reassembling the BBQ and work, work of chatting with Lisa G about FTHS, and also a therapist appointment (Sébastien) on Zoom. The boat next to us, Kalunamoo, who was also beside us in Dominica, came by and invited us over for a sun downer at 5pm.
We decided to head into Saint Anne and explore the area, but as it was Sunday, groceries were closed as were restaurants, but trinket/ tourist shops were open.
We wandered around and walked a big loop around the town, after Brian made a purchase of a bongo drum and t-shirt.
With cautions of theft we have been locking the dinghy and when we got back we didn’t see it, but it was stuck under the dock, with rising tide. With little effort we got it out, but scratched the top of the engine.
Back to the boat, went for a swim and did another coat of varnish on the window trim. I made chesse, crackers, fig jam, etc… to bring to Kalunamoo and we headed over. Another couple (from the UK, on a Moody) were already there. We didn’t stay overly long… the discussion was a lot about the weather system that had passed through, the chaos it caused and how salty dawgs and (Chris Parker — weather guru) handled it.
We left and headed back to Lorena to have supper and watch the final bit of Mid Summer Nights Dream.Leer más
We bought 24 eggs at the grocery store yesterday, so oueff’s for petite dejeuner was on the menu as we still had 6 left from Antigua.
We wrote and sipped for a long while in the morning and I marvelled at my life, grateful to be on this adventure, in a beautiful place with a great mate.
Then to boat chores. Unfortunately, I got sucked down a CRA rabbit hole where they claim on-line that I owe $14k….when I untangled it all, I realized I have already paid. Nothing like CRA to sour a mood and bring me to tears! Finally I let it go and got to work!
Brian was sanding and glossing the window frames in the new windows, and I cleaned out the in-floor food locker in the galley that had beer and almond milk exploded throughout. I emptied the locked, washed it and let it dry out before reorganizing. I emptied the water from the adjacent floor locker, and then got to work at cleaning the BBQ (vinegar and baking soda work wonders) so we could reassemble…. It WORKED!
The final chore (for today) was the AIS. We tried to factory reset the old one, but finally gave up and installed the new one. We now finally have a working AIS, which means that we can see all the boats around use, but also, they (or anyone who want to find us on this link: https://www.marinetraffic.com/en/ais/details/sh… ) can see where we are.
We were supposed to watch the last bit of A Mid Summer Nights Dream before our rental time on Amazon ran out, but I striped down and slide into the water instead. Brian joined me briefly… first time in over 2 weeks that we went swimming. I stayed in the water and cleaned the white line along the haul and then scrubbed the dingy.
A quick stern shower and then got ready for a gathering of the Salty Dawgs in La Marin. I actually got dressed up and wore a dress.
As we headed back to the town we passed another traditional square sailboat with outriggers, and got some good shoots. We did a quick run to the grocery store again for some apple and pears, and then to Kokoorum for a meet up. At the table: Edwin & Karen, Joe & Mary, Laurie and Dan, Sheldon and Susan and Kevin & Cindy. Had a great chat with Karen, who has been in a relationship with Edwin for nearly 3 years and hasn’t given up her terrestrial life (New Jersey)… we talked a lot about values, it was great!
All left except for Joe and Mary… we stayed and had super with them (I had a fish poke bowl). Interesting couple who have only been married for a year and a half, and cruising for the same (but together 10). We talked some of the challenges of being together 24/7 and how sailing pushes you to be the best version of yourself as challenges bring out the true colors. Joe profoundly stated that the key was to wake up each morning with a clean slate, Mary felt that open and honest communication was imperative, addressing things as they arose.
Back to the boat, it was a 30-40min dingy ride, in the dark and shallows with a catamaran nearly Plowing us down. We forgot to turn in the anchor light so some detective work in the mooring field to find Lorena, but within 5min we found her. Back aboard it was cookie time and we resolved to watch the final 40min of A Mid Summer Night Dream. However, wifi wasn’t strong enough and the timer ran out…. So we went to bed.Leer más
Left Trois Ilets first thing in the morning and had coffee and breakfast in route to La Marin and Sainte Anne, where we hope to get the AIS fixed and finally check into the country. We sailed, well motored, as the wind was on our nose the whole time so we would have had to tack back and forth to get there. Unfortunately, in order to tack you need to furl the jib or stay sail and let it out on the opposite side, not conducive to efficiency, so we took the lazy way. We left at 6:45 and arrived around 11am. There were sections that had lots of pots so I got to sit at the bow and direct Brian through the maze, as we stayed close to shore for most of the trip.
The anchorage is full, but we had no problem setting the anchor and are beside Kalunamoo (Bill and Maureen), former Salty Dawg who were also beside us in the south side of Portsmouth.
We quickly lowered the dingy and attached the engine, something I’ve been doing since Brian hurt his hand. We made rounds to say Hi to a few boats and then headed into La Marin. It took us about 45min and we didn’t follow the red and green so got ourselves into some pretty shallow water, where we had to back track. On the way back to the boat the engine died, but we restarted, then it died again about 15ft from the boat, so we had to row and then Brian spent some time fixing it (water in the fuel).
Earlier in the day we had a tiff as I was trying to clarify what Brian was asking me (about the water tank), he wasn’t understanding my words and then felt I got defensive when he went and showed me. Perhaps he was right. He is a very smart man and usually knows what the remaining of the sentence is, but often I am not looking to be right, just heard. This tension carried on throughout the day, getting shushed at immigration and ignored with regards to directions. When he is on a mission, my words seem to irritate. However, in the large scheme of things it is all minor and truly things that wouldn’t have bothered me before. I am either becoming more sensitive or I just care more about what Brian thinks of me, then others who have come before.
All was resolved by evening. We found the Garmin AIS800! His finger is healing well but it is giving him pause for thought. We had been moving toward keeping the boat in Curacao and then Panama and heading across the canal at Christmas. Now, he is talking about going to the DR and having me fly to Curacao from there, and he will make his way north again, perhaps to Canada.
Either way is fine with me.
We did not find the BBQ piece and Brian put out a message on the Salty Dawgs WhatsApp group looking for a Ventura (part that we need). Later he remembered that he had saved pieces from the old BBQ, and sure enough, he had a spare.
After super we watched another section of A Mid Summer Nights Dream in the pilot house (the Apple computer dropped but still seems ok)…and then off to bed. All in all, another beautiful day in the tropics ☀️🌴Leer más