Chullune

We were collected at the hotel just before 8am this morning by our new guide, Ronald. We drove to the port to join our boat that was to take us on the lake today. Seeing Puno in daylight confirmed what we had heard about this place, a bit grim. Our hotel is on the edge of town overlooking the lake but we have no plans to venture into Puno on our own!
Lake Titicaca is the largest navigable lake in the world and is 3800 metres above sea level, though the depth of the water has fallen by several metres in recent years due to lack of rainfall in the area. It is 100 miles long and 50 miles wide bordered on one side by Peru and the other by Bolivia. We set off on a very pleasant morning with blue skies and the temperature rising. Our first stop was to be one of the Uros islands. These islands are inhabited by the Uros people and have been here for hundreds of years though their numbers are falling as once again the younger people are being lured away by the apparent riches of city life.
The islands are built entirely on reeds which grow on the banks of the lake. Unfortunately the reduction in water level has meant a reduction in the height of the reeds they can harvest by 2 to 3 metres. When you step off the boat on to the island it is like stepping on to a mattress for it is very springy. The reeds have to be continually replaced as they rot in the water. The houses on the island are also made of reed. On this island 6 families made up of 35 people of all ages live - a strange existence. They were pleased to see us though and happy to show us their wares which were for sale. This was mainly embroidered work, blankets, pillow cases. We also took a brief trip on one of their traditional boats which was also made of reed.
On leaving the Uros people we sailed on for another hour to a small community named Llachon on the mainland but some way from Puno and this was like going back in time a hundred years or so. There was only one road which when it reached the centre ceased being tarmac. Everywhere else was dusty rocky paths. The people here are largely self sufficient and have a small holding where they may have a few pigs, grow their own vegetables and maybe help with the few number of trout farms that are dotted around. All the ladies wear traditional costumes and work hard. The married ladies wear distinctive embroidered hats which vary depending on where they come from. It was a tradition that the man would make a hat for his new wife and she would embroider a poncho for him to be presented on their wedding day. Nowadays the intricate embroidery can be done by machine.
Ronald took us for lunch at the only “restaurant”. This appeared quite primitive but the lady in there provided an excellent lunch of a large bowl of quinoa vegetable soup followed by trout with potatoes, rice and vegetables . Ashamed to say we could not eat it all.
This has been an excellent day seeing yet another side to Peru. As always everyone was so friendly and welcoming and Ronald was an excellent guide. He put into context Peru’s problem with tourism. Prior to Covid the country attracted 4m visitors a year and this was growing however last year this had reduced to 600,000 due to Covid and the civil unrest in the country.
Another early start tomorrow as we leave Puno at 7:30 taking the train to Cusco arriving there at 17:50. Looking forward to it.Read more