Portugal
Arcozelo

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    • Rest day in Barcelos

      September 22 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

      Boy I needed the rest. I don’t think I was as physically ready as I thought I was. But then I didn’t really know what to expect even after watching a zillion You Tubes. I’m not going to focus on pain so I won’t mention that. Just happy to have advil.

      I slept in, got breakfast, went back to bed. There’s a Middle Ages fair going on across the way. Biggest Ren Faire I’ve ever seen. I ventured out to find some recommended sites, try some local food, not just pilgrim meals— typically cabbage soup, a plate with some meat and 2 starches and a little lettuce and tomato salad. So with the fair, lots of places were open today, Sunday.

      One of the churches had a sign about today being Pax day (I think). So I’m imagining all my prayers for peace, written on my insoles, spoken through my lips and felt in my heart, being magnified by prayers all over the world. Yes! Yesterday while I was waiting for a taxi, a white dove lighted on the light pole across the street, just long enough for me to notice. Its a sign, I say.

      The inner journey— honor my timing and my limitations. My body knows better than my thoughts and ambitions.
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    • Day 17

      Day 5 - Apúlia to Barcelos

      September 19 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

      We said good bye to the Coastal Route and Ubered over to the Central Route. This will give us a chance to see the other part of the Camino Portuguese and some of Portugal 's oldest cities.

      We took the day off from walking and hung out in Barcelos (mostly at their GIANT outdoor market, one of the largest in Europe) and at a hotel (hurray! No shared bathroom!).

      The rooster is all over Portugal but the story originated in Barcelos. They looove their rooster! https://www.visitportugal.com/en/node/139480#:~….
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    • Vila do Conde to Barcelos

      September 22 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

      Foggy start. Sooo glad my travel planner taxied me to San Pedro de Rates because traversing that highway in this soup would have been treacherous. At least the fires seem to be managed.

      Sun came out by 10:30 and it was a lovely day meandering through farmland, small villages, walled roads. My love/hate, mostly hate, relationship with cobblestones was severely tested. I found my mantra, “may I be blessed on cobblestones”. It works for walking. And the courteous drivers of the cities were replaced by Grand Prix drivers taking blind curves at top speeds. More than once I pressed against a moss-covered wall to continue to be 3 dimensional. I guess for those villagers, the only good pilgrim is a flat pilgrim.

      Its corn harvest season here. I watched one family at work. Teenage daughter yanked ears off stalks and heaved them into the already mowed (?) area. Tweeny son acted petulantly instead of picking up ears. Papa ran the stalk mulcher. Uncle drove the truck to wherever corn stalk mulch goes, a good bit blowing on to the side of the dirt road.
      Smells of fermenting corn stalk mulch, manure fertilizer being added to overturned earth, one pungent dairy farm. And the oh so lovely eucalyptus groves and pine trees.
      Sounds of pigeons, doves, farm equipment, roofing tiles being hammered, cars roaring over cobblestones, and pubs with soccer games on the tube.

      For my inner journey, I felt that what I needed came to me. A cafe for a pit stop, a trash receptacle, a quiet place to pee, a stone to rest on, a restaurant with friendly people who spoke English, a perfect place to wait for a taxi. I used to think that I couldn’t get what I wanted but maybe that’s not true. Tuning inward, the wants are simpler.
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    • Barcelos Day 2

      September 23 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

      I was going to take a side trip to Braga today, but no. Especially babying the knee. I did laundry, bought some Voltaren at the Farmacia and some snacks for tomorrow’s trek. Wandered around, took some pics. Broke down in tears, fought back a panic attack, mailed a couple post cards and sat in companionable silence with a woman and her dog. She asked if I was cold, I pointed to my sweatshirt tied around my waist. We both sighed and yawned, marveling at the beauty of the day, unable to speak more than the simplest words, yet connected to some kind of magnificence.

      Inner journey: I can make myself nuts over doing the simplest new thing. I can spend an inordinate amount of energy circling around what ifs. And then I can find my heart and breath and all is well again. It takes a little time and a lot of intention, and pretty flowers and a scruffy dog help too.
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    • Day 10

      Day 10: Liquid Sunshine

      October 1 in Portugal ⋅ 🌫 20 °C

      31.5k👣 78Z
      15.4km / 9.6mi

      Not long kilometerage as Camino days go, but I really slowed down the last 3 km. Rain? Sore feet? Sore hip? Still, my heart is full. Meeting wonderful folks, walking scenic paths along forest dirt roads or small village cobbled streets. Even the rain is mostly a light mist, and the terrain is flat to gently rolling. More Camino signage, more pilgrims on The Way today.

      Breakfast in the dining room: coffee, bread, and cheese.
      Tears from Angie as she headed out
      Bom Caminho & blessings from Sr. & Sra. Mattos as we headed out at 9am
      Rates is halfway between Fatima and Santiago; blue arrows pointing one way for Fatima, yellow for Santiago
      Passed a park dedicated to pilgrims
      More cornfields and vineyards

      Water pouring from downspouts and roofs
      Collard greens (perhaps?)
      The Camino often paralleled commonly used roads, joining with them at times
      The cars and trucks were FAST! We were glad when the route took us through less-traveled roads 😵‍💫
      Roadside shrines

      30 min lunch break just before noon !!! Had a bean potage soup 🍲 and a slice of pound cake. So good!! Felt great to sit down.
      Met other pilgrims from Canada, New England, Netherlands, and Denmark.

      The small café had a big Elvis poster, along with memorabilia left by prior pilgrims, so I tucked a trading card with a painting of the view of the Sound from a Seattle-Bainbridge ferry

      Saw a passionfruit plant growing outside someone's home !!!
      Walked the end with an Irish pilgrim (who lives in Spain now). Her feet & legs were really done in by the cobblestones, too

      Crossed a medieval bridge into Barcelos
      Home of the black rooster that is a symbol of Portugal, much like the chickens in Santo Domingo on the Camino Frances route

      Staying in a fancy 3-star hotel, Hotel Bagoeria near the town square
      Shower felt TERRIFIC
      Church bells ringing every hour
      Reluctant to get dressed for dinner; it feels so good to rest!
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    • Day 10

      Barcelos

      September 8 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      Packing up and heading to Barcelos.
      We technically start here, so we are taking an early day, doing some laundry, and trying to reduce our pack weight (so, drinking wine and eating snacks, lol).
      We did a little self-directed walking tour once in Barcelos, including: Ponte Medieval (the medieval bridge), we tried to find the gargoyle of the bearded one at Soler dos Pinheiros... but didn't, wandered though the Paco dos Conder (Palace of the Counts, ruins) and through Igreja Matriz at Largo do Municipio square. We saw several of the legendary 'cocks' of Barcelos!Read more

    • Day 12

      Day 12, Walk to Barcelos

      September 22, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Supermercado dinner tonight. Just waiting for the beer to cool down 🍺.
      Another short day, only around 13km, leaves us with 18km tomorrow to Casa Fernanda.
      Got to Barcelos around 11 and had a slow look around. Very nice town. Had some lunch then made our way to the accommodation, which is a bit sterile. Would've preferred to go a bit further but then tomorrow would be a very short stage.
      Two things we've noticed is that every cafe/bar/restaurant has a TV on, with either crappy game shows or news/sport - 99% soccer. The other thing is nobody seems to know how to make a cup of tea. Obviously no one drinks it here.
      Short stage tomorrow.
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    • Day 10

      Casa de Flora.

      May 14, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

      Parada del día.. una nueva y conectada etapa.. hay cosas de cosas y casas de casas, gente de gente y ciudades, pueblos y Aldeas que te dejan atrapados.. sus olores, lo intenso, si historia, lo que vez.. estás imágenes quedarán vivas en la memoria consciente e inconciente... AGRADEZCO Inmenso todo lo que vivo en este Camino de la vida!!Read more

    • Day 4-Rates to Barcelos

      August 28, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

      Georgie and I started our hike on the Central Camino with a 10 mile walk. We met up with pilgrim Lucas, from Brazil, and walked with him all day. Not only was Lucas very pleasant, but his Portuguese came in handy. We met Christine in Barcelos and the 4 of us toured around this beautiful town before we went to our separate accommodations.Read more

    • Day 17

      Figurada Barcelos

      May 26, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Barcelos ist berühmt für das sogenannte „Figured Barcelos“, eine beliebte künstlerische Ausdrucksform, die durch Ton sehr farbenfroh und kreativ ist.

      Die häufigsten Figuren beziehen sich auf das Alltagsleben, die Religion, Feste oder sogar auf Teufel oder andere mehrdeutige Figuren Diese Kunst weist daher einzigartige Merkmale in Form und Farbe auf.

      Es begann als einfache Aktivität, bei der kleine Portionen Ton verwendet wurden, aus denen Stücke für Kinder zum Spielen hergestellt wurden und am Ende Pfeifen oder Musikinstrumente platziert wurden.

      Es wurde schnell zu einem zertifizierten handwerklichen Produkt und zum Kultur- und Identitätszeichen von Barcelos.
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