WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay

Walk around Wales on the Wales Coast path, Offa's Dyke Path, Wales Coast Path and Cambrian Way. Read more

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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay Traveler
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Day 40 Cnicht to Maentwrog
July 8, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
Saturday : Up 06:00, away 07:00.

Wind strength was unbelievable during the night. Tent was continually flapping violently against my sleeping bag. I felt sure my Terra Nova Wild Country Zephyros 1 tent was going to shred at any moment. I was kept awake much of the night both by being battered by the flapping tent and the anxiety of thinking I could be homeless in any moment!

At 6 am, wind was still wild, but the tent had held and it had not rained, in fact the sun was shining. I skipped cooking porridge as stove was unlikely to work well in the wind. I had plenty of Pepperarmis, energy bars and a sandwich from Beddgelert grocer bought yesterday.

As I walked down the gentle slope towards Llyn yr Adar wind was the same strength but didn't feel as bad walking with rucksack packed. Psychosomatic no doubt. Then a right turn down towards a large disused Slate quarry. This mile looked straightforward but took a while as I referred to map frequency to try to stay on the Cambrian Way route. Met a German couple here who had wild camped beside Llyn Cwm-corsiog. I forgot to ask them how windy it was. I wondered if it was better sheltered than my pitch.

Through the disused Slate Quarry it began gently raining. The route ascended a slate incline that was very wet, I placed each foot step carefully.

After leaving the slate workings behind and beginning my ascent up Moelwyn Mawr I met WO2 (Warrent officer 2) Sargeant Major Steve. He had retired just a few months earlier in September 2022. He was carefully assessing his position on an OS Map using the contours and features. A skill he said he had lost as he ascend the ranks. Apparently this tends to be a role for more junior Soldiers. We met a few more times as I ascended (because he kept overtaking me) and chatted about lots of things military. He echoed what I had heard a few weeks before from a former Royal Marine on Offa's Dyke path, that UK territorial forces were being built up as UK has been behind other countries in this regard.

Having only met 4 people all morning, at the top of Moelwyn Mawr a party of 8 arrived soon after me. Steve was already there making a brew - of course! I was amazed how light his JetBoil stove was. Even including the Gas canister it was far lighter than my MSR Saucepan.

Down from Moelwyn Mawr took a while needing care on the tricky scrambles down. Once at Bwlch Stwlan descent was an easy, though boggy, zig-zag down to Llyn Stwlan Dam. The mile below Stwlan Dam through Camfa Derw was slow, picking through high Ferns. I am sure these were not here last June 2022?

I passed the turn off to Duallt station on the Ffestiniog narrow gauge railway by not paying attention. Although gentle, the ascent back seemed to take forever because I was tiring.

Once on the road, route was straightforward and once I had left Cambrian Way I put my thumb out and eventually got a lift the last few hundred yards to Llechrwd Riverside campsite.

Teachers accompaning Duke of Edinburgh students pitched next to me. Maria had a Terra Nova Laser 1 tent. It was exactly the same design as mine, but made from lighter material that made it lighter. How I envied that saved 0.5 Kg! ... although not the extra £400 it cost.

Had supper at the nearby Grapes Hotel a mile away in Maentwrog. No success in hitching this time sadly.

9.5 miles from Cnicht to Llechrwd Riverside campsite completed at end of 40th day of walking and 8th on the Cambrian Way.
Total miles so far : 398.5
Average speed : 1.3 mph
Weather : Extremely strong wind overnight and dry. Sunshine at first with very strong wind. Cloudly with spots of rain from 08:30. Cloud rolled in around 10:00 which l was in until mid afternoon. Sunny, reducing cloud and temperature increasing for remainder of the day.
Number of people passed : 18
Objective tomorrow : Day offRead more
TravelerI think after all that you deserve a day off 👍. Fantastic progress!
7/9/23Reply
Traveler 42 days truly qualifies you as “a gentlemen of the road”
7/11/23Reply
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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay Traveler
Day 41 day off in Maentwrog & Porthmadog
July 9, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
Sunday : Up 08:00, away 09:10.

Slept later than I intended, presumably tired from lack of sleep yesterday. Skipped breakfast and started walk to Maentwrog for 10:00 Service at St.Twrog's. I was a little early as I passed Grapes Hotel, which was open, so popped in for a cup of Tea. Visiting Minister's Sermon included reference to Joseph, perhaps unwisely, telling his brothers his dream that he had of them bowing down to him and so incurring their ire and their plot to dispose of him. He reflected that similarly in a murder investigation, the Police first look to eliminate family members. I am sure we all know the story that it all worked out okay in the end as Joseph became Pharaoh's right hand man and was reconciled to his brothers.

During the after Service Teas and Coffees I asked about buses to Porthmadog. Parishioner Doris was driving to Porthmadog so I had a lift - hurrah!

In Porthmadog used a laundrette. Probably for the first time since I was a child using one under my Mother's instruction.

Then walked through Porthmadog High Street to the Ffestiniog railway station. I was hoping to walk around Porthmadog harbour and Martime museum but last train was in 20 minutes so I boarded for Bleanau Ffestiniog.

Blaenau was somewhat sad looking, although council funds had clearly been spent on smart paving and public buildings to make it look a little better.

I returned on the train as far as Plas Halt, the closet to Maentwrog. I was puzzled why the train occasionally slowed until, in a curve in the line, I realised it was for sheep on the line!

2.5 miles around Maentwrog, Porthmadog and Blaenau Ffestiniog completed at end of 41st day of walking.
Total miles so far : 401
Weather : sunshine and glorious most of the day. Heavy rain late afternoon for an hour
Number of people passed : Hundreds
Objective tomorrow : Cae Adda campsite, TrawsfynyddRead more
TravelerSheep on the line?.....who'd have thought it possible in Wales.😅
7/9/23Reply
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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay Traveler
Day 42 Maentwrog to Trawsfynydd
July 10, 2023 in Wales ⋅ 🌧 17 °C
Monday : Up 07:00, away 09:15.

Dry as I began striking camp and packing. Rain started as I struck tent. Walked the mile to Maentwrog, where I met my friend Dave from Barmouth Walking Festival, who was joining me for the day. Dave said I looked thinner, when I weigh myself later at home I discovered I have lost 13 lbs / 6Kgs.

Out of Maentwrog, our walk started straight uphill for a mile on a minor road, then off right for a short distance on a track before crossing wet fields for 3/4 mile to Trawsfynydd Dam. There followed 3 miles along west side of Llyn Trawsfynydd lake. It was raining all the while as we passed Cae Adda campsite where I had planned to camp. Dave had found that the website for Cross Foxes pub in Trawsfynydd village advertised a bunk house. With the constant rain this seemed more sensible than camping.

We paused for lunch at the Mountain rescue centre when rain stopped for a shot while.

As we passed the Dam at the southern end of the lake there was an increase in vehicles, we assumed these were fishermen. At the junction with the main A470 we turned left / north towards Trawsfynydd village. This part of the road has a welcome pavement as traffic was passing at 60 mph.

In the village stopped at Garage to say hello to the father of my former colleague Emyr, whom I had worked with at Kukd/Eurofoods.

15:10 entered Cross Foxes Inn and was told opening was 17:00. Enquired if a room was available, there was, and in which case Bar was open for us immediately - result! We ate when kitchen opened at 17:00. Dave left around 20:00 to drive home to Cheshire. It had been great to spend a day with him despite the poor weather,

All good things come to an end and ths one has too. I need 4 days of good days weather to hike across the Rhinog mountains to Barmouth. Rain and high winds are forecast for remainder of the week so going to call it a day on my walk around Wales and travel home tomorrow. I was lucky too get 6 weeks of good weather and optimistic to expect it to last 2 months.

9 miles from Maentwrog to Trawsfynydd completed at end of 42nd day of walking and 9th on the Cambrian Way.
Total miles so far : 410
Average speed : 1.7 mph
Weather : Dry at first then rain for much of the day, blustery wind from mid afternoon
Number of people passed : 0
Objective tomorrow : Going homeRead more
TravelerWow - what a trip - most impressive 👍.
7/11/23Reply
TravelerFantastic effort so far Richard,thanks for your blog and looking forward to you rejoining your route at some point.👏
7/12/23Reply
TravelerThe further you walk, the longer and greyer the beard grows to reflect each step you’ve taken!!
7/12/23Reply
TravelerWalking around Wales..? But missing out Anglesey?
7/13/23Reply
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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay Traveler
Day 43 Cardiff to Trawsfynydd
June 13 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C
Saturday: Up 06:30 away 09:20

Up early to finish packing my rucksack. Walked 10 minutes to bus stop to catch my first bus of 4 buses. Last bus will drop me outside Trawsfynydd village from which I have a 2 mile walk around Trawsfynydd lake to Cae Adda lakeside campsite.

Newtown was very busy with a festival / carnival of some sort.

Had a pint and supper in the White Lion / Llew Gwyn in Machynlleth where I supped many times with Barmouth walking festival pals.

2 miles from Trawsfynydd village to Cae Adda campsite completed at end of 43rd day of walking.
Total miles so far : 412
Miles in 2026 : 2
Weather : sunny all day, keen wind made it feel quite cool in the evening.
Number of people passed : Lots
Objective tomorrow : Over Ysgyfarnogod to camp beside Llyn Du or Llyn Corn Stwc.Read more
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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay Traveler
Day 44 Trawsfynydd to Llyn Du
Jun 14–18 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
Sunday: Up 07:30 away 10:20

Late start today while I laid out tent and sleeping mat to dry out in the sun.

Inspired by Dave Taylor's suggestion (of Barmouth walking festival) that I might beat the forecast Tuesday rain if I walked to Llyn Du (Black lake) beneath Rhinog Fawr today. This distance I had taken me two days in 2022 when I walked the Cambrian Way in the opposite direction. The only cost was, I arrived very late to pitch. But it was worth trying.

Hike began with a hard climb up Moel Gyrafolen. I back tracked a few times crossing bog land between SH 68001 35911 and ladder stile at SH 67372 35846 also on the final ascent through billberry bushes where the path became indistinct. Once on the top relatively easy straightforward walk across Diffwys, Foel Penolau, Ysgyfarnogod and onto Llyn Du. With only the ascent and descent of Foel Penolau being steep. Llyn Du had been my original objective, but with it being only 15:00 there was plenty of day for more progress.

Next 0.37 miles to Llyn Corn Stwc was challenging taking 55 minutes. Back tracked a few times to avoid boggy land and to navigate around higher ground.

Just south of Llyn Corn Stwc stopped to make supper at 16:00. Generally I would make supper after pitching. On this occasion my thinking was, eating earlier would allow me to recover some strength and gain some energy for the remainder of the hike.

Route down to Bwlch Gwylim and on down to Cwm Bychan was long but straightforward except for the final ¼ mile steeply down to Cwm-bychan farm. I do not think the route I followed was on the path, which was unclear.

At Cwm Bychan I filled up my water bottles from the stream via the excellent Grayl Ultralight filter bottle that my daughter Angharad had loaned to me.

Final section was up the Roman steps, which were not as well laid as I had thought I remembered them. Except for a few short sections laid was steps the rest were boulders, grass and bog.

Last time I was at Llyn Du I pitched in the north west corner of the lake which required a traverse over lakeside boulders. As it was late and I was tired, I pitched on the east side, near where I arrived at the lake. This turn out to be a successful location.

Arrival and departure times from features visited today.
10:20 left campsite
12:20 Moel Gyrafolen
Diffwys
13:40 Foel Penlau
14:15 Ysgyfarnogod left 14:43
16:00 Llyn Corn Stwc left 17:13
17:52 Bwlch Gwylim
19:10 Cwm Bychan left 19:20
20:48 Reached right turn towards Llyn Du
21:17 Llyn Du
19:28 Arrived pitch

7.9 miles and 3264ft of ascent from Cae Adda campsite to Llyn Du lake below Rhinog Fawr completed at end of 44th day of walking.
Total miles so far : 420
Miles in 2026 : 10
Weather : hazy sunny morning, full sunshine in the afternoon. Occasional breeze but generally no wind all day.
Number of people passed : 5
Objective tomorrow : Ascend and desend Rhinog Fawr then Rhinog FachRead more
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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay Traveler
Day 45 Llyn Du to Llyn Hywel
June 15 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
Monday: Up 07:36 away 11:30

Rain during the small hours but glorious when I got up. Tent was dry already and ground sheet was dry. Glad to learn I had suceeded in picking a dry spot.

Very lazy start because I was wearied from yesterday's long hike. Much shorter one today with 2 peaks as the objective and a short distance betwen them. A few hikers passed my pitch and stopped for a chat.

Once away my first obstacle was a tranverse of a bolder field along the north edge of Llyn Du (Black lake). It was then a simple job to follow the well worn path westwards to a wall then a left / SSW turn to follow the wall a few 100 yds up the hillside to a left / east turn onto a footpath. The OS map suggested to follow the wall further up the hillside to a left / east turn. An Australian couple I had met had done this. But they had had to return because they had been unable to find the left turn. I was following Dave Taylor's directions which were spot on.

At the top of Rhinog Fawr it was quite breezy so I didn't linger. The descent was straightforward, following Dave's directions and referencing the map which aligned. At the bottom there is a wall to cross. Options are crawl through a hole or climb over where the north end meets a cliff face. On my previous visits I have crawled through the hole but this time I climbed over. Fortunately without incident. When I first climbed Rhinog Fawr on my own on my first visit some years ago, I missed understood the need to cross this wall and ended up climbing over boulders and cliffs with the result I took hours to get to the summit.

Once at the bottom, at Bwlch Dwrs Ardudwy, I turned right / west. The path here spits a number of times. The higher path seemed generally the drier one. However, there was no avoiding the bog at the point where I had to turn left / south to a ladder stile at the bottom of Cwm Hosan. 77 minutes later, after a hard ascent, I reached Llyn Hywel (Hywel lake).

I pitched and while making supper met Lotta from Denmark who appeared to fill her water container from the ridge behind (west) of me. We had a pleasant chat surrounded by Midges which she said were not around her pitch. Note to self, if there is little breeze, perhaps avoid pitching lakeside.

As I was clearing up low clouds rolled in. Within a few minutes the lake was obscured, with visibility 30 yards. This put paid to my proposed attempt to ascend Rhinog Fach after supper.

Arrival and departure times from features visited today.
07:36 Woke up
11:30 left pitch
11:49 completed alongside Llyn Du rock scramble
13:20 Rhinog Fawr
14:45 Snack stop 15:00
15:40 Bwlch Arddawy
16:11 cross ladder stile at bottom of Cwm Hosan
16:27 Llyn Hosan
17:28 Llyn Hywel
19:00 Supper finished, mist began rolling in
19:18 everything squared away. Total white put across lake

3.4 miles and 1558ft of asent from Llyn Du to Llyn Hywel completed at end of 45th day of walking.
Total miles so far : 423
Miles in 2026 : 13
Weather : sunny morning, hazy later with on and of breeze, cooler later, white out mist from 19:00.
Number of people passed : 8
Objective tomorrow : Rhinog Fach, Y LLethr, Diffwys, BarmouthRead more
TravelerLove the little stone bridge photo in complete wilderness
6/15/26Reply
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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay Traveler
Day 46 Llyn Hywel to Barmouth
June 16 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
Tuesday: Up 06:00 away 11:38

Foggy morning and forecast not encouraging so decided to walk up and down Rhinog Fach lightly loaded leaving pitch setup. Outline plan was to abandon walk to Barmouth, instead walking to the cost to get bus home.

Walk to foot of Rhinog Fach involved walking along north edge of Llyn Hywel over lakeside large boulders. Variously being inches then metres above the lake. Quite a hazardous 0.25 mile route that took me 25 minutes this first time.

Low visibility and strong SW wind on the way down from Rhinog Fach persuaded me that walk to Barmouth should probably be abandoned.

Once back at pitch began making breakfast at which point the fog cleared, the wind abated, the sun came out and walk to Barmouth seemed back on. Then neighbour Lotta appeared from over the ridge and, after a short chat, said she was walking to Barmouth, which settled it for me. Original objective back on!

After striking camp first challenge was the lakeside boulder field. This 3rd crossing only took 17 minutes. Very pleased with this considering I was now carrying 15Kg. Up to the Bwlch (saddle), right / south a short walk across grass, then a steep climb up Y Llethr up loose stone, scree and the occasional solid rock. This was definitely the most hazardous section of the day. One that, a few years ago, I fell down and rolled a few times before stopping. It hurt! Half way up, when stopped for a snack, the only lone hiker I saw all day appeared from behind with a hearty "Good morning" that startled me somewhat.

Arrived on grassy top of Y Llethr without incident then a few miles of slight ups and downs over grass and rock surface to a 'pull' up Diffwys. Just after Diffwys surface changed to all grass. Here I thought I heard voices. I have found I often do but it turns out to a particular creak of my kit, or a bird song or a sheep just over a rise or some such but this time it was definitely voices. Turned put to a party of about 20 school children, presumably on Duke of Edinburgh (DoE) scheme.

Next few miles over grass with the occasional bog passed without much interest except the occasional ladder stile, a few wearing ascents, the cloud becoming thicker and rain seeming more likely. I was becoming quite tired now, slowing a great deal on the ascents and questioning why I was doing this!

Final couple of miles down towards Barmouth rain started. Here I made 3 navigational errors requiring retracing steps. I could see that others had made the same second error as I had because a large number of stones had been pulled of the top of a wall at SH 62178 17550 / 52.73797, -4.04283. Back tracking up hill along the wall I found an unchained gate at SH 62230 17533 / 52.73784, -4.04205 which turned out to be the correct wall crossing.

From here it was a direct straight line across grass downhill, sometimes steeply, to outskirts of Barmouth. Then a ⅓ of a mile on road to Stuart's house where I arrived 20:30. Stuart drove us into town where were too late for any of the restaurants but we did manage some chips, pie and potato scallops from the Carousal café.

Arrival and departure times from features visited today.
06:00 up
06:57 began walking
07:22 began ascent from NE Llyn Hywel
07:30 Bwlch Llyn Hywel
08:09 Rhinog Fach attainted in fog
09:05 Bwlch Llyn Hywel
09:14 NE Llyn Hywel attained
09:43 back at Llyn Hywel pitch
11:16 Packing finished
11:38 left pitch area
11:55 NE corner of Llyn Hywel
12:02 Bwlych Llyn Hywel
13:41 Y LLethr attained
15:25 raise immediately north of Diffwys
15:58 Diffwys attained.
17:52 Bwlch y Rhiwgyr attained
18:45 passed Bwlch Cwmmaria ladder stile
19:00 461m Trig point attained
20:30 Arrived Stuart's house

10.6 miles with 2625' of ascent from Llyn Hywel to Rhinog Fach completed at end of 46th day of walking.
Total miles so far : 434
Miles in 2026 : 24
Weather : foggy morning, then sunnny for about an hour, then hazy sun, later low cloud, rain for final hour
Number of people passed : 2, plus a party of about 20 children, presumably doing Duke of Edinburgh (DoE)
Objective tomorrow : Go home to dry outRead more
TravelerGo home to dry out? Guess those trendy new hiking materials aren't as good as they should be
6/18/26Reply
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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay Traveler
Day 47 Barmouth to Pant Y Cae campsite
June 30 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
Tuesday: Up 06:00 away 07:20

Resuming my walk today after 14 days waiting for weather to improve. Having first been too wet, then too hot with highs of 38C. Now it is goldilocks weather, just right.

After filling all 4 water bottles I weighed my Rucksack before leaving. I was astonished to find it weighed 19Kg. Considerably more than the 15Kg I had calculated.

07:45 a few minutes walk from home caught the first of five buses. Arrived Barmouth 15:25. After being sunny most of the day, light rain had started 14:15 in Machynlleth. I was raining heavily by the time I arrived in Barmouth. So with all my rain gear on I walked up to the point where I had left the Cambrian Way a fortnight ago. From here I followed its route down to the Barmouth viaduct. I crossed the viaduct passing only 11 people. The fewest I have encountered. Rain eased as I was crossing. It had stopped before I got all the way across and the sun was breaking through.

I left the Triath Mawddach / Mawddach trail to follow the Cambrian Way SSE to Arthog on the A493. Across the road then a steep walk up the path alongside the Afon Arthog. At the Arthog waterfalls I walked left through a gate onto the access track to Pant Phylip farm. The owner of Pant Phylip farm has kindly allowed access along this track. Turning left along the track for 100 yards, through another gate took me onto the road leading to my campsite at Pant y Cae farm.

Peter and Enys of Pant y Cae farm where very welcoming. Pant y Cae is a working farm with 4 Land Rovers and a Barn full of equipment. Facilities comprised 2 wooden sheds with a shower (£1), 2 toilets & basins and kitchen sink all for a reasonable £10. Much of the site is sloping, but a did find a level patch. Pegs went in about half way before being stopped by stones.

4.2 miles with 870' of ascent from Barmouth to Pant y Cae completed at end of 47th day of walking.
Total miles so far : 438
Miles in 2026 : 28
Weather : sunny and warm most of the day. Rain 14:15 - 16:00; then sunny intervals
Number of people passed : 25
Objective tomorrow : Over Cadiar Idris to Cwmrhwyddfor campsite in Minffordd.Read more
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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay Traveler
Day 48 Pant y Cae to Bwlch Llyn Bach
July 1 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
Wednesday: Up 05:30 away 07:50

Retired 20:30 last night so up very early this morning as a result. Early morning forecast was rain from 07:00 so I got a move on striking and packing camp. Even though I was up before my neighbours, the DoE party of 7 chaps from Bromsgrove school, they were ready to leave before me. I need to work on packing quicker.

Start was a straightforward, but steep, walk up the road to Llynnau Cregennen / Cregennen lakes. Then a very hard hike straight up to the ridge that leads up to Cadiar Idris. Surface was hard, initially a lot of bog, then heavy undergrowth including gorse and billberry. This 2.7 miles took 2:15.

Once on the ridge I was in cloud for much of the day. Only passed by 3 people until I gained the Pony path when the numbers of people increased significantly. Was pleasantly surprised that I was keeping pace with a party of 5 children doing DoE. Chatted to them a few times as we passed each other. Discovered they were also from a school in Bromsgrove, like the chaps camped near ro me this morning.

Top of Cadair was able to perform service as a photographer of a party of 5.

Route down via Mynydd Moel was straightforward and uneventful until I got to the final descent towards Mynydd Gwerngaig. This was an extremely steep descent down a scree covered slope. The Cambrian Way guide had this as one of two routes feom the ridge to bwlch. This is definitely one to keep for ascent. The other route would have been better for descent.

I had been planning to walk the 2 miles down to Minfford but I arrived at the Bwlch about 10 minutes before the bus to Dolgellau. So instead I decided to catch the bus to Dolgellau where there is a campsite I wanted to try and access to a number of pubs. One of which I used to write this blog - Y Meirionnydd.

The Tal-y-Fron campsite on the east edge of town proved to be exceptional. Beautifully mown terraced pitches, laundry, WiFi & smart showers included for £16.

Arrival and departure times from features visited today.
05:30 up
07:50 began walking
10:05 Ridge attained between Craig-y-llyn and Craig-las
11:05 lunch stop
11:30 Pony path attained
13:00 Cadiar Idris summit attained
13:50 Mynydd Moel attained
16:36 Bwlych Llyn Bach attained
16:50 Boarded T2 bus
17:00 Arrived Dolgellau
17:30 Arrived Tal y Fron campsite

9.3 miles with 3290' of ascent from Pant y Cae campsite to Bwlch Llyn Bach completed at end of 48th day of walking.
Total miles so far : 447
Miles in 2026 : 37
Weather : overcast for most of the day with occasional sunny intervals
Number of people passed : 29
Objective tomorrow : Dinas MawddwyRead more
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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay Traveler
Day 49a Leaving Bwlch Llyn Bach
July 2 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
Thursday: A few photographs from my ascent up from my start point at Bwlch Llyn Bach to the ridge I would hike along for the day, which I gained between Mynydd y Waun and Mynydd Ceiswyn.
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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay Traveler
Day 49b ascent to Waun-oer
July 2 in Wales ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
Thursday: A mile along the ridge reached the 607m summit of Waun-oer. A few photographs along the way.
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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay Traveler
Day 49c Cribin Fawr, Craig Portas, Maesglase
July 2 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
Thursday: Photographs as I progressed further east along the ridge.
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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay Traveler
Day 49 Bwlch Llyn Bach to Dinas Mawddwy
July 2 in Wales ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
Thursday: Up 06:40 away 10:00

Late start today. I had to wait for the campside office to open to collect my Power bank that they had charged overnight. Also to wait for the Cader Idris Outdoor Gear shop to open at 10am to buy a pair of thick socks because I had left my second pair at home.

Nice weather today. Sunny intervals in the morning, sunny all afternoon with a constant breeze making for a pleasant walking temperature.

This was a hard day. I had estimated 7 hours. It took 9 ½. Obstacles that slowed me down were steep descents from Waun-oer, and down to Bwlch Siglen through shoulder high Ferns (50 minutes); long ascents up Cribin Fawr, Craig Portas and especially Foel Dinas which was through thick undergrowth because I was unable to find the path - which of course was very clear once at the top; route across Foel Dinas poorly defined through billberry bushes and bog.

The walk down the slope of Craig Maesglase was well defined and gentle and lulled me into complancy. When crossing the stream at the bottom I fell in ... twice! It must have been 2-3 feet deep. As I stood to extracate myself, I slipped on the shiny bottom and fell in a second time. Boots, shorts, half of shirt and half of rucksack were wet. Fortunately the sun and breeze helped to dry them, with shirt dry by time I arrived at the campsite.

Reaching Dinas Mawddwy marked my completion of the northern section of the Cambrian Way. Central section is next.

Arrival and departure times from features visited today.
06:40 Up
10:00 left campsite
11:02 Caught T2 bus back to where I left Cambrian Way yesterday
11:11 Bus stopped, began hiking
12:45 Ridge line fence atop Mynydd Ceiswyn
13:30 Lowest point on Mynydd Ceiswyn ridge
14:08 Waun-oer 670m trig point
14:57 Stile atop Cribin Fawr
15:25 Stile at SH801144
15:37 Craig Portas summit
15:45 Lunch stop on Craig Portas bwlch
16:05 Restarted hiking
17:40 Craig Maesglas waterfall where I fell in the stream
18:35 Through gate into Forestry commision
19:15 Foel Dinas summit
20:45 Arrived Celyn Brithion Caravan & Camping Site

10 miles with 3138' of ascent from Bwlch Llyn Bach to Dinas Mawddwy completed at end of 49th day of walking.
Total miles so far : 457
Miles in 2026 : 47
Weather : Morning Sunny intervals, late afternoon glorious sunshine, strong breeze for most of the day
Number of people passed : Zero
Objective tomorrow : Mynydd y CemmaesRead more
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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay Traveler
Day 49.5 Dinas Mawddwy to home
July 3 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Spent a sunny morning at campsite laying out clothes to dry. Fortunately I had a bench beside my pitch to use. Clothes had dried by the afternoon but Boots were still wet from yesterday's 'dip' in a stream.

Mid morning I walked over the road to the friendly staffed cafe in Meirion mill for late breakfast and device charging. Checking the weather discovered next 5 days forecast to be foggy and rainy in Dinas Mawddwy. No point walking if I cannot see anything so checked buses home. Discovered there are only 2 scheduled buses daily out of Dinas Mawddwy (and 3 more if telephoned 2 hours in advance to ask them to run). Decided to take the 16:07 out of Dinas to get me home 22:37. I shall leave the Mynydd y Cemmaes objective for another day when the forecast is improved.Read more
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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay Traveler
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Day 49.6 Cardiff to Llandinam
July 7 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Tuesday: Up 08:00 away 09:30

Monday was supposed to be a day of 4 buses to travel from home back to Dinas Mawddwy. This is down from 5 buses last time I left home. An encouraging sign that I am making progress south. I got as far as Merthyr Tydfil. My journey stalled here because my second bus was delayed arriving at Merthyr by 30 minutes because of a road traffic accident. The delay would have prevented me catching my final bus, which only runs twice a day. So I returned home to retry on Tuesday.

Tuesday I tried again. This time my third Bus, between Newtown and Machynlleth, went into limp mode limiting its speed to 10-15 miles an hour. Which meant I would miss my connection to Dinas Mawddwy on my fourth bus. So I alighted bus in Caersws to walk 3 miles along the Severn Way to The Lion Inn Llandinam which has a campsite.

When I arrived at The Lion Inn Llandinam. I was Crestfallan to find the sign on the front door said 'Closed' on Tuesdays. Walked around the corner to see if I could get away with camping on the fields behind the pub. Here I meet proprietor Scott fixing a parasol in the beer garden. He was very welcoming, said camping was no problem and I can eat with him and his family. Discovered he was a former Soldier who had been in Bomb disposal, diving and numerous other activities about which we chatted for ages.

3 miles with 110' of ascent from Caersws to Llandinam completed at end of 49.6th day of walking. But none of this was on the Cambrian Way.
Total miles so far : 460
Miles in 2026 : 50
Weather : Glourious all day.
Number of people passed : 1
Objective tomorrow : Dinas Mawddwy... again.Read more
Traveler Idyllic!
7/9/26Reply
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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay Traveler
49.7 Llandinam to Dinas Mawddwy
July 8 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Wednesday: Up 06:45 away 07:45

Another day of 3 buses to get from Llandinam on the A470 beside the Afon Severn River, via Caersws and Machynlleth, back to Dinas Mawddwy where I left the Cambrian Way last Friday morning.

4 miles of walking with 1300' ascent around Llandinam, Machynlleth and part way up and down the old Cambrian Way route from Dinas Mawddwy today.
Total miles so far : 464
Miles in 2026 : 54
Weather : Glouriously sunny and hot
Number of people passed : Lots
Objective tomorrow : Mynydd CemmaesRead more
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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay Traveler
Day 50 Dinas Mawddwy to Mynydd Cemmaes
July 9 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Thursday: Up 07:00 away 08:30

Foggy start to the day so packed the tent carefully as it was a little damp. The hiking day began with an easy 2 mile walk on the old road out of Dinas Mawddwy to Mallwyd. I was passed by only 6 vehicles, it was very quiet. The old road runs parallel to the A470 which is very busy.

In Mallwyd I stopped to have breakfast in Carys' café in the Gulf filling station which also has a shop and a post office.

About 30 minutes out of Mallwyd I met Cambrian Way hiker David going the opposite direction. We chatted for a few minutes. I discovered he was 4 years younger than me, had a similar sized/weight rucksack, but was walking twice as many daily miles as me.

The rest of the day was a gentle green lane with Partridges occasionally flying passed me. Then a hard slog up a steep hill in hot temperature, followed by a mile across heath land, then down a track to cross a valley, then back up the other side into a forest, through the forest onto a hillside of 18 wind turbines where I wild camped near Turbine 9.

Arrival and departure times from features visited today.
07:00 Up
08:30 away
09:30 Brigands Inn roundabout
09:35 Stopped at Gulf garage for breakfast and device recharge
10:20 Restated walking
14:48 Fence atop Waun Fign
15:25 gate at hairpin turn in valley
15:50 Forest corner
17:00 Exited forest
17:40 Turbine T18 atop Mynydd Cemmaes
18:39 Stopped to set up wild camp beside Turbine T9

9 miles with 2182' of ascent from Dinas Mawddwy to Mynydd Cemmaes completed at end of 50th day of walking.
Total miles so far : 473
Miles in 2026 : 63
Weather : glouriously sunny all fay and hot
Number of people passed : 1
Objective tomorrow : DylifeRead more
TravelerKeep going- pity it’s so warm for you!
7/10/26Reply
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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay Traveler
Day 51a from Mynydd Cemmaes
July 10 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Easy morning walk in bright sunshine with a little breeze, initially along the wind turbine service road, then around a hillside, along Drovers lanes and finally on quiet roads down hill into Commins Coch village.Read more
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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay Traveler
Day 51b in Commins Coch
July 10 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
4 miles into my morning hike I arrived in the village of Cummins Coch. I set up my Helinox chair zero on a shady patch of grass so I could rest, cool down, recover, write this bog and contemplate whether to continue or go home because temperature was so hot.

While I was sitting resting, a kind lady walking passed and offered to fill my water bottles. I accepted.Read more
TravelerUm……. I must admit it looks as though it’s not going to cool down until the middle of next week 😳. Over the next four days temperatures look like they’ll stay above 25 degrees for the majority of each day. Can you postpone for a week or so and return at a later date???
7/10/26Reply
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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay Traveler
Day 51c Maesteg
July 10 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
Stopped beside a barn where a family of 4 had just finished bailing hay. I asked if I could have any water. They only had troughs fed by rain water from the roof which did not look very heathy. We chatted for a few minutes then I continued on my hike. 150 yards further on I met hikers Norman and Phil walking some of the Cambrian Way in the opposite direction to me. While we were chatting, the farm wife walked up and offered to take my water bottles to her nearby home to refill. When she returned, not only had she filled all 3 bottles, but had also brought a couple of lunchtime snackable biscuits. The kindness of strangers.Read more
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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay Traveler
Day 51 Mynydd Cemmaes to Waun Tyisaf
July 10 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
Friday: Up 06:00 away 07:37

Easy first 4 miles to Commins Coch. All downhill. Initially on the wind Turbine service road, then green fields, Drovers roads and some lanes. Stopped in Commins Coch on a grassy patch under the shade of a tree to regather my strength. Temperature of 30C had me considering catching buses home and returning another day. Next bus was in 1:50. I decided to press on because I had plenty of time to return and catch bus home if the temperature got too much for me.

After a short road walk out of Cummins Coch, the path turned right straight up a steep grassy hillside field, then continued steeply through woodland. The final 20-30ft heavily overgrown, before arriving on a forest track. Easy walking on the forest track for a mile then quiet roads, farm tracks and across grassy fields with one ½ mile section of forest.

At the foot of my final section of walk up Waun Tyisaf met James and his dog Doogle with another chap and his dog. James and I walked together to the top where there are 2 pools that James told me were once used for dipping sheep. James suggested a place to pitch then he and Doogle went for a swim in the larger of these pools. About this time a mountain cyclist rode past uphill, apparently without electrical assistance.

I later went for a dip in the larger pool myself. But thought better of it in case it was deeper than my height. Splashed myself instead which was provided welcome cooling.

Arrival and departure times from features visited today.
06:00 up
07:37 Began walking
08:30 Stopped to filter 1350ml of water
08:48 Restarted
10:12 Commins Coch, stopped to rest
11:55 Attained forest track
12:50 Stopped to chat with Farmers & fill bottles
13:22 restarted
13:42 Stopped to filter water and soak shirt
14:05 Restarted
15:25 Rest stop in Ffridd Dolgadfan forest & cooked supper
17:28 Restarted
18:30 Arrived Waun Tyisaf

9.5 miles with 1830' of ascent from Mynydd Cemmaes to Waun Tyisaf completed at end of 51st day of walking.
Total miles so far : 483
Miles in 2026 : 73
Weather : Glouriously sunny, occasional gentle breeze, too hot
Number of people passed : 9
Objective tomorrow : BugeilynRead more
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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay Traveler
Day 52a from Waun Tyisaf
July 11 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Made a navigational error as soon as I left my pitch today. I began walking downhill on an obvious track. After 200 yards checked the OS map on my device and discovered I should have stayed on top and followed the fence line. I might have known that Tony Drake, author of the Cambrian Way route, would keep the route high if he could.

After crossing a few hilltop fields the route went through gate in attached photograph and into a forest.Read more
TravelerKeep going - you seem to be doing well.
7/11/26Reply
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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay Traveler
Day 52b Pen Esgair-goch
July 11 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
Long climb out of forest up Pen Esgair-goch. Wide open fields once on top.
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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay Traveler
Day 52c Lunch at The Star Inn
July 11 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
I passed two houses a distance away as I approached Dylife village. Each time feeling slightly anxious that I was missing opportunities for water. (I found I am drinking about 3 litres per day. The total capacity of the 4 bottles I carry is 1.75 litres). I opened the gate to the third house, which was right on the Cambrian Way. Homeowner Sheryl was quite happy to let me fill all my bottles. She also told me The Star Inn, that I would pass in a few minutes, reopened last year. Feeling considerably cheered up I carried on the few minutes down the road ariving at the Star Inn 20 minutes before opening time. I found a shady spot alongside to write more blog while I waited for them to open.

Sommersby Cider went down a treat together with an omlette cooked by barman Sam. There is no mobile signal in Dylife so it was useful to be able to use The Star Inn WiFi as well as to charge my device. Yesterday my Grayl Ultrapress water filter had begun to be hard to press. Which I assume is because the filter is getting clogged. Using the WiFi I was able to book my next campsite and get their agreement to accept parcels for me. I then ordered a Grayl replacement filter. Also ordred a pair of short gaiters to stop seeds going into my socks and boots. These had been recommended by my Barmouth walking festival friend Clive.

The Star Inn had been refurbished and reopened in 2025. It has rooms, Pods, camping pitches and free parking for motorhome owners who have bought food and drink and as was to has a smart toilet / shower block.Read more
TravelerWell you seem to have landed on your feet!! Progress, especially in this heat. Tonight’s temperatures in your part of Wales look to be about 15/16 degrees-will that be low enough to have a comfortable night??
7/11/26Reply
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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay Traveler
52d Afon Clywedog
July 11 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
I stepped out of The Star Inn at 1pm straight into the heat of the day. 2 miles further on a footbridge crossed the Afon Clywedog stream. Taking on a suggestion I had read a few weeks ago during the heatwave, I tied my shirt to my walking stick, and dripped it in the stream. Getting the wet shirt back on was hard work, but it was worth it.

I was passed by 3 walkers on the bridge. The only walkers I saw all day. They had swim suits on having been swimming in one of the lakes I would be passing on the next stage of my walk.Read more
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