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Into Ancient History
  • Rita Yee
  • Rita Yee

Into Ancient History

Exploring Egypt, Cyprus, Israel and Turkey En savoir plus
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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient HistoryRita Yee

    See you later Cyprus

    31 janvier 2019, Chypre ⛅ 13 °C

    My 5 days in Cyprus ended too soon. This is a beautiful country to explore further, and even in the occupied area in the North as well. I've definitely come at an interesting time where there are fewer visitors, and even got to see snow. There's still lots to see!

    Had a lovely last dinner at Pyxida Restaurant last night in the new marina. A bit tricky to find until you find out. I only ordered aubergine salad (a dip with pita) and the cuttlefish casserole starter sized, but they brought out a lot more on the house: hummous, fries and vegetables. I was stuffed, but managed to finish what I'd actually order and chipped away at the vegetables. They even gave me lemon ice cream to end the meal. Wow! Thank you to the wonderful staff there!

    Off to Israel this morning, and it started to rain. Was a little worried and thought about taking a taxi to the shuttle after all. Like yesterday though, it didn't last long so I was able to revert to my original plan to take the bus to the tourist area to catch the bus from there. It was a bit nerve racking and another test of trust.

    The picture of the stop was different, and I expected a stand there. As it turns out, like the other buses, you simply pay your 9 euros to the driver when you get on. Definitely get to the stop early so you know you haven't missed it. Thankfully I knew I could take the next shuttle if something did go wrong.    En savoir plus

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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient HistoryRita Yee

    Tel Aviv

    31 janvier 2019, Israël ☀️ 18 °C

    Country #3 on this trip, and I will be home in just over a month. Funny how we break up the time. A bit of admin day for me which a wise friend said I should take, especially on long trips. Sometimes we need a day to just chill, relax and do little.

    Getting through Israel customs was actually very smooth, no questions asked. I did have to wait about half an hour though and it felt like the line wasn't moving at all. I'd originally thought about taking the train and then a bus to the hotel, but heard rumors of 8 hour interrogations, and decided to book a transfer as I also didn't want to lug my stuff around. The drive was pretty quick until we got into the city. What I also remember is the strong air freshener in the car, and how it and the speed on the way made me feel a little green.

    With 2 extra days before my tour started, I booked another hotel just around the corner. It was smaller and more sparse than I imagined, though arguably I had just left a fantastic hotel. Room was comfortable though, and I had time to hit the beach and wander through the nearby Carmel Market while waiting for a spot to open up at a nearby laundromat.

    Things are more expensive in Tel Aviv, making the conversion tricky in my head. Luckily we're not here too long so I can stretch the budget later. The market wasn't too busy as most places had closed up for the night. The beginning section is general goods followed by fruits & vegetables, candy, spices and local items.

    Back at the laundromat, I waited a little while for a machine to free up, then I took a seat and waited. In my head, I had visions of hanging out at a laundromat and working on my script as I waited. Well, this place was quite small and as I had a small load, I was in and out in about 45 minutes, not really time to get into my script even though I did bring it with me. Perhaps next time. Otherwise, it might be something to do on my Saturday in Jerusalem when everything is closed ;)    En savoir plus

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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient HistoryRita Yee

    Tel Aviv: Packing It in in 27 km

    1 février 2019, Israël ☀️ 11 °C

    Packed in quite a few sights today as I heard most places would be closed the next day as it was going to be Sabbath. Started my walk up to and down the beautiful Rothschild Boulevard. I've noticed the city is quite green. There are numerous bikes and e-scooters, as well as parks and giant recycling cages for hard plastics. You'll even find a few rope hammocks and bean bag chairs if you just want to hang out.

    Out the end of the Rothschild Blvd is one of the city's auditoriums. From there, I stumbled upon a flea market only open Tuesdays and Fridays, you'll find antiques and lots of clothing booths. A stone's throw away is the Sarona Market. It reminds me of Granville Island back home with the variety of food places with an artsy vibe. With three apartment towers above the market and a good sized park outside, it feels like a great community .to live in.

    From there, Azrieli Center is a short walk away. If you go up the tower, you'll get panoramic views of the city. The restaurant was closed but we could still go up to see the view. At 22 Shekels (about $5.50 Euro) it's alright. The mall itself is interesting, there's a Miniso as soon as you get to the 1st floor on the escalator. There's also a good outdoor area to have lunch on the 3rd floor. Me? I took time to enjoy my sandwich from Sarona here.

    Onwards to Rabin Square where city hall is located. I would hear the story of Rabin the next day from our guide, but otherwise enjoyed the large space and saw the Holocaust Memorial as well. Oh, also picked up Israeli ice cream from a place called Iceberg along the way. They're known for having some pretty crazy flavors here, but I settled for mango and passionfruit with coconut milk. Hoping to progress as the trip goes along if I can remember which ice cream places are great where.

    Off to Diezengoff Square then where I came across the most memorable busker ever. Imagine hearing a funky drum set playing to prerecorded music, and imagine the musician being a man who was probably in his 70s if not older. Super talented, one can't help but sit down and take in a few songs. Everyone passing by was appreciative, leaving the man a tip. And he was a great time himself, not ever missing a beat.

    When I finally tore myself away, I popped into the nearby Dizengoff Center for a washroom break. The guard at the entrance (they're at the entrance of every mall here) chatted with me about the politics in Canada, strange but ok. I also found a shop for an Israeli jewelry designer I'd read about. At first, I was hoping to find a store in Azrieli and couldn't, so had actually given up. Didn't end up buying anything but still, a beautiful shop to visit.

    Back on the road, I stopped in my tracks when I saw a Korean shaved ice & bubble tea shop. Of course I had to poke my head in. I think I ended up chatting to the owner as I was looking at the menu. The bubble tea menu was sparse (I live in Vancouver after all!) and I think the shaved ice was shaved ice and not shaved milk. The store is new though and not run by Koreans, so we talked about expanding their menu and using flavor syrups instead of powders. I was also looking for green tea with syrups. He openly welcomed the suggestions, so perhaps soon, the menu will be more extensive.

    Continuing down King George V street, I made my way back to the Carmel Market, it looked busy and crowded, and having been there the night before, I opted to take the other road, home of the Nachalat Binyamin market that is packed with artists and craftspersons. Shoppers will love it here and probably go home with a few items. Memorable artists included a glass blower. You could also hear talented musicians but not quite as riveting as the senior drummer earlier.

    I decided to continue south towards Neve Tzedek to check out another fountain at a museum. At this point, I didn't realize that places where closing up due to Sabbath. The museum was closed so I just wandered the neighborhood before returning to the hotel.

    For dinner I'd hoped to try the sabich (sandwich with fried eggplant and hard boiled egg) but many places were closed by now. Oops, did manage to find a falafel place not too far away to have a simple night and early night in. Time to rest the feet.    En savoir plus

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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient HistoryRita Yee

    Old Jaffa and more chilling by the beach

    2 février 2019, Israël ☀️ 17 °C

    Checked out of my hotel and into the next one for the group tour. Thought I was a bit of a smart cookie by picking a place just around the corner =) Today being Sabbath, a lot of places are closed, but I am headed to old Jaffa for a free tour with Sandeman's Tours. They run free walking tours in a number of European cities. Basically you tip your guide at the end of the tour, though same suggest you can put in what you feel it's worth. It's always worth more than the tip so bigger groups make it worth their while more.

    Our guide explained quite a bit of history about Old Jaffa, walking us through the old gates and showing us a picture of Tel Aviv before it existed. Jaffa is originally an Arab city that's been around 4000 years. It is said that Jonah from the bible was swallowed up here and there's a Greek legend about Andromeda being sacrificed here as well.

    There's a few sites to see here including St Peter's Church, Catholic and one of 2 west facing churches in Israel). Abrasha Park gives you a sweeping view of Tel Aviv and there's a wishing bridge nearby as well, where you touch your zodiac sign, look at the sea and make your wish. You'll also find Simon the Tanner's house (though it's not much to see) as well as Egyptian pillars from Ramses II. The port is neat to explore as well and there's quite a few galleries around. If you like antiques, there's a flea market as well.

    I also came across a place, Bamboo, that puts your cold pressed juice into glass bottles. A little more expensive than other stalls, I really appreciated not having needed to use one more plastic cup. Unsure of whether I could take the bottle with me, they assured me I could. After finishing the refreshing fresh orange juice, I did bring the bottle back. I have a feeling the prices are higher because of the bottle. Would be nice if they gave you a few shekels back for returning the glass =)

    A leisurely stroll back to the hotel and trying to find a late lunch, before hanging out on the beach til sunset. I have really loved the sunsets in Tel Aviv, all stunning as the sun drops into the sea.    En savoir plus

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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient HistoryRita Yee

    Old Jaffa Take 2

    3 février 2019, Israël ☀️ 9 °C

    Started my G Adventures tour last night, this be #12 if you count the combo trips as one. A medium sized group of 11. Today we set off first to Rabin Square where our guide recounted the history of Israel from the 12 tribes to the diaspora to the Persians, the Byzantines, the Romans and the Crusaders, and the Persians again, though don't quote me on that order, to the more recent times and issues towards Palestine. A bit of a long story to write out here but fascinating.

    Next stop, back to Old Jaffa for a bit of history, but mostly we had free time to explore for a bit. I made St Peter's my first stop since it had been closed the day before. You know how we forget the day of the week when we travel? I forgot today was Sunday and there was mass going on. We wondered why there was singing in English when we opened the door. A quick loop around a few places based on my memory from yesterday before hopping on the bus to leave Tel Aviv. I was very glad to have done the walking tour the day before as there was more details and story, some perhaps not true but I still remember the tale.

    We made a surprise stop by the aquaduct in Caeserea, still beautiful by the Mediterrean Sea before continuing on to have lunch in a Druze family home. The Druze are one of the minorities in the State of Israel, and they have a closed religion, no one in and if someone marries outside the religion, they're banished. The homes in the Druze village were beautiful and came with stunning views of the mountains and city below. Lunch was a delicious affair by our hostess, and the dessert was simply delicious. They call in Lebanese nights, I may attempt this for Thanksgiving or Christmas this year.

    Two stops after lunch, we headed to Haifa, our stop for the night, but first, the Bahi'a Gardens which is a place of worship for another group here. We could only access the top 2 levels of the gardens but at the top, you got a great view of the .city right down to the port. It almost reminds me of Lombard Street in San Francisco.The view at night from the bottom looking up is also stunning.

    We then made our way to the Stella Maris Monastery situated over what is believed to be Elijah's Cave. Beautiful inside though we didn't linger too long before making our way to the hotel. Our rooms on the 17th floor were great and included panoramic views of the city.

    About half of just met up for dinner tonight. We ended up going to Fattoush in the German Colony where some of us decided to share 4 appetizers, which turned out to be a great idea given portion sizes and the ability to try several dishes. Delicious!    En savoir plus

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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient HistoryRita Yee

    Haifa to Akko to Nazareth

    4 février 2019, Israël ⛅ 17 °C

    Departing Haifa, it was off to the ancient city of Akko. We first explored the Crusaders fortress, built during their 2nd second coming this land. Crossed arches was a dominant feature as we started with a cheesy but fun video, then a brief tour of various halls. The Templars Tunnel would be later, and not too claustrophobic actually. We'd also walk along old city walls, visited 2 synagogues (one still under renovation and the other a Tunisian synagogue that was closed, and the local mosque.

    There've been thoughts to excavate the site, but the difficulty lies in needed to relocate the locals living above the old city in the new city and it's very unlikely that this will happen, partly due to logistics but also the love for their home.

    Lunch was a quick stop at what was the best falafels in Akko and they didn't disappoint. They were as fresh as fresh could be, you could see the man scooping the mixture and dropping it into the hot oil. A busy operation, they have the process down.

    After lunch, we made our way to Nazareth to visit the Basilica of the Annunciation and the nearby Church of St Joseph. The basicilia is beautiful and sits above what is believed to be Mary's home. Outside and inside walls show various depictions from countries around the world. It was really neat to see them all and how the culture of each country comes through.

    A quick stop for kanafeh dessert. I'd had some in Jordan a few years ago and was curious to try the Israeli version (or one of them). I really enjoyed the texture of the top half, but as I was too full to eat it til much later, the cheese on the bottom had cooled down and solidified.

    Our stop for the night? Tiberias, a town on the shores of the Sea of Galilee, around which we would be exploring the next day.    En savoir plus

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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient HistoryRita Yee

    Surprises Around the Sea of Galilee

    5 février 2019, Palestine ☀️ 13 °C

    We've been moving around quite a bit on this tour, spending a few hours here, a few hours there, and then overnighting in a 3rd location. Today would follow the same, but also include 2 surprise stops as some of us were long time G Adventures travellers who'd been given VIP status. So what perks have we got?

    First up, a 45 minute cruise on the Sea of Galilee. Completely unexpected, yet one of the best parts of today. It was really great being on the water and feeding the birds. We shared our group with other travellers and watched as they danced to Hava Nagila. Prior to the dance, they also played Christian music I think. Overall a low key but fun time.

    Our cruise departed from Ein Gev, a kibbutz in the Golan Heights. A kibbutz is a self sustaining community who have their own industries like farming and share everything. We walked through a dairy farm where many cows were having their breakfast, or maybe it was lunch.

    Next a short drive to Capernaum, which was the home of Jesus ofter he was rejected from Nazareth. This was the home of St Peter whom he would stay with. You'll also find the White Synagogue here as well, and an octagonal church.

    Our 2nd surprise of the day was a trip to a winery for some local find tasting. The girl who ran our tasting was really nice and explained to us the various wines the make and how to look, smell and taste a wine. On our tasting list today, a white, a red, and a sweet wine. The favorite seemed to be the sweet wine aka moscato. I know it was mine and I was sorely tempted to buy 2 bottles. One to take home and one to consume before going home ;)

    After lunch, we made our way to Tabgha, where Jesus is said to have performed the miracle of feeding 5000 men with 5 bread and 2 fish. The church is fairly simple, but there it's peaceful and you'll find some nice mosaics. Then we were off to the Mount of Beautitudes where Jesus proclaimed the 8 beautitudes to his disciples. The mount is serenely set above the Sea of Galilee, and there's a path you can walk down to the sea (or lake really) as well.

    Tonight's stop: Jericho, in Palestine. It would be a 2.5 hour drive through the Jordan Valley which was very green and lush. Our hotel apparently once hosted presidents, important VIP and Jewish Israeli's who came here to gamble, but that all changed after 2000.    En savoir plus

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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient HistoryRita Yee

    The Trek to Masada

    6 février 2019, Israël ☁️ 17 °C

    Back into Israel today, but first 2 quick stops in Jericho: the tree that Zaccharias climbed to see Jesus when he was preaching and a view of the Mount of Temptation where Jesus spent 40 days and nights fasting while the devil tried to tempt him. The tree certainly looks old, and is situated in an area currently in the Russian part of the city.

    Our main site of this morning is the Fortress of Masada which was the last Jewish strong hold in the Judean Desert against the Romans in the 1st century CE. The story has it that after the Romans finally broke through, the Jews decided to commit mass suicide rather than be enslaved, but there is currently no proof to support that theory.

    There are 2 ways up to the fortress, one by cable car and the other to hike (I think there are 2 paths by the way). We were told it was an easy stroll, but I assure you, The Snake Path is not that at all, but rather a steady climb to the top, partly with steps and partly slopes. In the summer, when it is really hot, people are actually not allowed to climb it. But climb it we did, and the temperature was pleasant, and then had about 90 minutes still to explore the main half of the fortress.

    You can easily guide yourself with the brochure they provide, as there really is only one path. From commander quarters to storerooms to the palace carved into the rock face, it really is something to explore. In the distance, you can also see Jordan as well as the Dead Sea.

    Shoppers note: in the visitor's centre, there's an Ahava store. We were given a discount and free gift with purchase voucher. Keep in mind, if you don't spend at least 400 NIS and claim the VAT refund at the airport, you're probably better off to hold off til you go to a regular store in town. One of the best deals our group experienced was in Jaffa where you get 1 product free for every 2 you buy. At the airport when I left, it was buy 3 get 1 free. Some places limit the deal to kits.    En savoir plus

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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient HistoryRita Yee

    Dead Sea - take 2 (5 years later)

    6 février 2019, Palestine ☁️ 19 °C

    After trekking up Masada, our next main stop for the day: covering ourselves with the mineral mud of the Dead Sea and floating in its waters. The weather wasn't the greatest, but the water wasn't freezing cold. It's comfortable enough to get in.

    Some tips/reminders, don't shave the day before, any cuts will sting. If you have recent cuts, they will likely sting. Don't swallow the water. Duh. Put the mud on first, otherwise it won't be able to properly dry if your skin is wet.

    We didn't spend too much time the water, just enough to get our floating pictures and rinse off the mud. I must say though, the Israeli side of the Dead Sea is much nicer than Jordan's. I even floated better here, but it may be the experience and the clearer instructions posted here. I kid you not, you need to wade out slowly, then crouch and lean back once you get far out enough. I liked to keep my hands on the bottom to anchor myself and "walk".

    After we settled into our Jerusalem hotel, we headed out to Pergamon Restaurant for dinner. It's located towards West Jerusalem, just before Jaffa St. One of the girls had found it on Trip Advisor and it was vegetarian. 8 of us headed out and shared probably what might be the 1st communal I've had in all my travels (aside from the Chinese dinner in Brazil). We ordered every mezze on the list, divided into 8 portions and then a few more. We even divided the gnocchi down to 2 pieces each! Of course, there was the odd extra piece here and there, but we also took care of them fairly. Pergamon also has Happy Hour ;)    En savoir plus

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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient HistoryRita Yee

    Jerusalem - an intro

    7 février 2019, Israël 🌧 11 °C

    Today was the first day we didn't have our van, and the first time we didn't have to check out of the hotel. It's nice being able to be in one place for a few days. This morning, we set off on a walking tour of the Old City and it really is handy to have a guide to get you oriented (even though it did take a few trips before we could confidently get around without a map).

    Damascus Gate would be our landmark, from there, the road splits into 2. One path will take you to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the other, the Western Wall. Our 1st site though is Temple Mount and Dome of the Rock, or depending who you're talking to, Haram esh-Sharif (for the Muslims). To the Jews, this is the place where the 1st (and 2nd) temples were built, where Adam and Eve were created, where Abraham was to sacrifice Isaac. Over the years as Jerusalem was conquered by different groups, the site went from temple to mosque to temple to destruction. No praying is allowed at the Temple Mount and there are guards keeping watch against that along with policing affection between the sexes. A man cannot put his arm around his wife or daughter even in a photo.

    From there, we doubled back to the start of the Via Dolorosa near the Damascus Gate. The Via Dolorosa is a path marking what is traditionally believed to be where the stations of the cross took place. A church marks each station, beginning with the Church of Condemnation and the Church of Flagellation. The churches are small, but the crowds are big (and this is low season). Every day, religious groups make their own processions along the via, carrying a wooden cross.

    Station 4 is actually in an Armenian Church while outside Station 5, there's a handprint outside. The final 5 stations are in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Large numbers of pilgrims pour into this site, wanting to touch the spot where Jesus died, and lining up for hours to enter what was traditionally his tomb. Yours truly managed to get in on a later day, but more on that story later.

    After the Via Dolorosa, we wound our way back through the Jewish Quarter to the Western Wall. There's a distinct difference once you enter the Jewish Quarter, it's cleaner, roads are wider, and you can even see some ruins. The Muslim Quarter, which we almost always end up starting with, has narrower roads with stalls on both sides. Some would say it's dirtier. The other quarters are the Christian Quarter containing a lot of religious items you can buy and the Armenian Quarter which is the smallest, but home to a number of pottery workshops and churches.

    The afternoon was ours to explore. After a bagel lunch, which was very refreshingly needed after days of falafels, eggplants and shwarma, we wandered the Old City before climbing up to the ramparts to walk the walls. The walls are divided into 2 sections, as there is one part you cannot walk around. Tickets are purchased at the Jaffa Gate for 18NIS. It is good for 2 consecutive days, so you don't have to do both parts at the same time.

    One more stop to wrap up the day. We headed over to the Garden Tomb, another location that Jesus could've died and been buried. According to the geology of the place, this seems more accurate and likely to have been Golgotha (place of the skull, as the rock face was shaped) and the tomb nearby, where the dimension and descriptions match that in the bible. The Garden Tomb is easy to wander through and not too busy since most people believe the the death and burial took place at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

    If you think about the argument for this location, it also makes sense because at the time, it was outside the walls of the city and people would not have executed people inside the city walls. Just saying - please don't get mad, it's just logic. At the end of the day, one has to believe what they believe, but still respect others beliefs.    En savoir plus

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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient HistoryRita Yee

    Bethlehem Side Trip

    8 février 2019, Palestine ☀️ 10 °C

    A quick trip into Bethlehem this morning. I didn't realize how close it was to Jerusalem. Like Jericho, it's also situated in the West Bank, which is part of Palestine. Most people wanted to spend extra time later today in Jerusalem so we kind of blitzed through, would've been nice to spend a bit more time here.

    One of the most memorable parts of the day was walking along the wall that divides Palestine and Israel. Here in Bethlehem, the wall is covered with graffiti art, including work by Banksy, showing the people's feelings towards the wall and the history between Jews and Arabs. There are also story plaques about the treatment of Palestinians, but the one that really stuck with me was actually from an elderly Jewish lady who shared a story about getting on a bus that had no seats left. The only person to offer her a seat was a Palestinian, the rest were Jewish.

    We then visited a refugee camp. It's not at all what you would picture. There are no tents, but rather lots of buildings packed together in a small area. It's funded by several countries around the world, administered by the UN. A number of services are free, but of course it's not home. Palestinians earn much lower wages than Israelis, and we learn a bit more from stories directly from a Palestinian man. He oversees a community center where children can hang out, and women do weaving to earn extra money.

    Stop #3 and our final stop in Bethlehem was the Church of the Nativity to see the 16 pointed star of David and the spot where Jesus' manger is believed to be. We were lucky the line was only 30 minutes. It's a tight space, but still beautiful, especially with the mosiacs and art.    En savoir plus

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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient HistoryRita Yee

    Jerusalem once more

    8 février 2019, Israël ☀️ 13 °C

    Almost all my tour mates are leaving Jerusalem the next day, so there was a strong desire to get as much as they could get out of the city. Me, I had 3 more days, though 2 might've been sufficient. After returning from Bethlehem, our van dropped us off at Jaffa Gate. Most people wanted to see more the Jewish Quarter before Shabbat. The thing to remember about Shabbat is that shops and restaurants close up around mid-day Friday to allow for preparations. Public transit also shuts down, as we'd learn making getting around more tricky. If you have a flight on Saturday, your only option is a private taxi costing $80 USD, so take heed and stay an extra day if you can.

    I spent my afternoon lining up to see Jesus' Tomb in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. It was only half way around when I arrived, so I thought it wouldn't take long. But it did, an hour and a half long. The line was very wide and everybody had to funnel in as they got closer. Perhaps because it was the end of the day, there were also a few prayer and incense sessions that added to the wait as well.

    I was very fortunate to find myself in the middle of a Russian group. When the 1st songs sounded, I had no idea what was going on, just that we had been progressing 1 foot every 10 minutes and then nothing. I asked a tall Russian lady and she wasn't sure. As time ticked by, I grew more antsy, especially because I'd made plans with the rest of the group to meet at the Western Wall.

    It was also very stuffy in line. People are sardined in, and you couldn't fall over even if you fainted. Giving up, I made my way out of the line, only to realize how close I was. What I'm about to do next, I'm not exactly proud of. I went back to the line, located the Russian lady, and asked if I could rejoin them. She asked why I had left, but I couldn't exactly answer, and she was kind enough to let me back in.

    As we finally approached the front of the line, her tour leader called for only members of her group to go inside the tomb. My new friend ushered me to her other side, "hiding" me from the leader so that I could slip in with them. It was very sweet of her, and I couldn't thank her enough. When I got inside the tomb, I added a little thank you prayer for her being there. I really don't know if I would've been up for lining up all over again, even if it was another day. The tomb inside is beautiful, but no pictures are allowed. Perhaps only 4 people could be in the inner chamber, so no photos helps speed things up.

    Following that, I made haste for the Western Wall. The crowds were gathering and both the men's side and women's side were filling up with worshippers. Groups of men and women were also dancing in circles respectively. We watched for awhile before heading off. It's quite a different experience than during the day where the primary action is to put one's hand/forehead against the wall in prayer, and leave a written prayer in the cracks.    En savoir plus

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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient HistoryRita Yee

    Jerusalem with a friend

    9 février 2019, Israël ⛅ 12 °C

    Bit of a lazy morning, I said my goodbyes to everyone who was leaving, and then switched hotels. Why? Well, nobody was staying on in mine, and there was another close by at half the price. Plus, it was also closer to the tram that I would end up making us of over the next two days.

    One of my tour mates was staying an extra 2 days so we ended up planning to hang out together. This morning, I met her at the Church of the Sepulchre (she was lining up for the tomb) and then we went to the Tower of David museum, where tradition has it is where King David built his fortress. Pretty easy walk with great views of the city. You can easily self guide. Our ticket was in combination with the King David night show that we'd be attending the in the evening.

    Afterwards, it was off to find the bus station to get bus 275 to take us up the Mount of Olives and the churches there. It took about 3 tries and the help of a taxi driver, as we had the wrong impression. There are 3 bus stations close to each other, but we finally got the right one and were on our way. The bus is inexpensive and saved us a climb up the hill.

    I was very lucky my friend had her guide book and knew which churches we needed to see and the best path to link them all. Admittedly, I haven't done much research for Israel. We started at the Chapel of the Ascension (there are two) but you want the one not by the Russian monastery. The Chapel of the Ascension is actually tucked away behind a gate. There's a stone there that marks the spot where Jesus is believed to have ascended into heaven. We also went to the one the Russian Monastery, but it was more of an interesting view. We also had to wear skirts which was a bit strange. They had some loaner ones where you wrap the fabric around your waist, over your jeans.

    Next stop, a really cool place, Pater Noster Church. Pater Noster means "Our Father" and inside this Roman Catholic Church is "Our Father" in numerous languages ranging from English to Chinese to Korean to various European and African languages. You'll even find Farsi and Burmese. There is a small fee, but it's very cool inside. You can also leave prayers with the Carmelite monastery and the nuns will pray on your behalf.

    We tried to go the Church of Mary Magdelene next even though it was closed, as we'd hoped to get some outside photos. This is the Russian church with the gold onion tombs on the slopes of the Mount of Olives. No luck though, so we moved on to the Gardens of Gethsemane and the Church of all Nations. The Gardens where Jesus is said to have been praying when he was betrayed isn't too much to look at but the church is stunning. Have a seat in the sombre setting and take in the mosaics, especially that of "The Kiss of Judas", "Christ in Agony Being Comforted by an Angel" and "The Arrest of Jesus"

    Exiting the church, we hurried down the street and just made it in to see the Tomb of the Virgin Mary before it closed. After entering the doors, head down the steps into a very cool chamber, decorated with lamps. Mary's tomb is off to your right, but the line up isn't very long. There's also one way one and one way out which helps keep the line moving.

    Tonight, we took in the King David night show at the Tower of David. Images are projected right onto the walls of the citadel using 14 projectors, creating a very cool 3D effect. Sometimes the figures were so real they were like ghostly figures actually dancing in the citadel walkways. Photos aren't supposed to be allowed, but we snuck in a few to show people what it looks like. A very cool way to end the night before a late dinner.    En savoir plus

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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient HistoryRita Yee

    Into the West

    10 février 2019, Israël ⛅ 10 °C

    Another lazy morning before hopping the train to West Jerusalem where my friend's hotel was, and a visit to the Mahane Yehuda market. I really enjoyed the tram, especially since it made getting "home" last night much quicker and almost to the doorstep. The market is neat to walk through, it kinda reminded me of the market in Tel Aviv, but more local and less hip. Don't expect much tourist stuff here, but do try the food if you can.

    Nearby I finally picked up a sabich, local food though more Iraqi. It's fried eggplant and boiled eggs in a pita, and really tastier than it sounds. I'd been wanting to try one since Tel Aviv so was glad I finally found it. I had one piece of the friend eggplant hot and it was good. Too bad I wasn't hungry til much later so it was cold by the time I got to it.

    In the afternoon, it was a Sandeman tour of the City of David. You could probably do this on your own when you get the City of David, but it was informative to have a guide and a very small group. He gave us a lot of history, along with how archeology and geology evidence say that this is where the city started and not at the tower. Tradition vs evidence, sound familiar? Seems there's two versions of many things here, but I'm not surprised.

    There are also 2 tunnels to choose from that you can walk through. The Canaanite tunnel is now dried up but it once carried water from the Siloam Pool to Jerusalem when it was just a town on one hill. The other is a Hezekiah's tunnel with waters up to 70cm high that you can wade through. It's supposed to be refreshing in the summer, but I'm not sure winter is such a good idea. This tunnel comes out at Siphon Spring, the later source for water.

    From the City of David, we had a coffee break since it ended about an hour earlier than quoted, a little disappointing, but it did give us time to make it to the Western Wall Tunnel tour which I highly recommend. We went back underneath the city but we didn't go far, just down to see how far down the Western Wall actually goes and the history of the wall, how Jews had to find secret ways in, why it was well preserved underground.

    A dinner adventure tonight as we sought out Adom Restaurant at the old railway station. Maps.me took us winding back and worth through parks and quaint neighborhoods but we made it. The restaurant we ended up in was Kitchen Station next door, but still a good choice as we split a cheese and croquette plate along with a pasta.    En savoir plus

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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient HistoryRita Yee

    Jerusalem - the last day

    11 février 2019, Israël ☀️ 11 °C

    And then there was one, just me left from our group. It was going to be an easy day, an admin day, and ended up a Netflix day. My last friend from the tour flew out today. There wasn't much left I think I wanted to see. The Holocaust museum was recommended but I didn't quite feel like making the trek, even if by tram.

    Instead, I decided I would walk the ramparts (this time in its entirety), pick up a bagel for dinner and run a few errands. First off, exchanging NIS to Euros, not usual but I needed Euros for my transfer in Istanbul. I think the best place to change your menu is probably the exchange places by Jaffa Gate. There's no commission so even though the posted rate is less than the ones in the Muslim Quarter, come here. When I exchanged euros a few days ago, I was charged 10% commission in taxes and fees, resulting in less shekels over all.

    After the southern ramparts from Jaffa to Dung Gate. It's a very peaceful walk, but you don't see much of the Dome view. You'll see city panoramas including the quaint neighborhood from last night, and a green hill against the walls. You'll peek into Armenian school yards before exiting just before the Western Wall where yes you can take good photos of Temple Mount. We'd actually walked part of the road below the day before on the way to the City of David.

    Exiting at Dung Gate, I made my way to an awesome viewpoint of the Western Wall my friend had discovered the day before. It would've been the perfect vantage point to witness Shabbat. Here I finished my sabich from the day before before going off to pick up a bagel for dinner.

    Next up a fun adventure to find the Church of the Archangels. I found it on Maps.me and thought, angels, cool, I want to see this church. Winding my way through the Jewish and Armenian quarter, I got lost a few times, sometimes you have to trust the map that there is a path and sometimes you find yourself in a dead end. I almost gave up but finally stumbled upon the Convent of the Sisters of the Archangels.

    At first I didn't want to step in, what if it was private property, but I could see the top of what might be a church and there was no other road. So in I went into a nice courtyard where I found a beautiful image of two archangels on tile. The church, or what I thought was a church, appeared closed though. I peeped through the keyhole but saw a fairly plain worship area.

    Back to the ramparts, retracing the beginning from Jaffa Gate to Damascus that we'd previously done. I debated coming all the way back to have a wander through Mamilla Mall (which we'd also walked through the previous night) but decided against it and to exit through Herod's gate instead as it was closest to my hotel and a very good call to complete the lazy afternoon.

    Your best view of Temple Mount will be from Damascus Gate, but if you continue on, you'll see more residential, schoolyards, backyards. The ramparts were closed at Herod's so that's where I had to exit. Just before Herod's Gate though, you see a walkway that locals use, making for some interesting people watching.    En savoir plus

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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient HistoryRita Yee

    Farewell Israel

    12 février 2019, Israël 🌙 5 °C

    Saying goodbye to Israel today. I booked the shuttle through our hotel. A note to travellers, some things shut down between Friday afternoon and Saturday sundown, like public transport and shuttles to the airport. If you need to get there, you'll need to book an "illegal" taxi to catch your flight which is quite expensive.

    I was up at 5am to get ready for the shuttle, and waited and waited. You can imagine, I was a little getting paranoid about missing my flight though it was at 1020am. The guy at reception reassured me, so another lesson on trust. Finally the minibus showed up at about 630, about 45 minutes after scheduled. The airport is actually a 40 minute drive away in Lom, but we made it.
    Not much drama after that, though I and a few items in my carry on got swabbed.    En savoir plus

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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient HistoryRita Yee

    Merhaba Istanbul

    12 février 2019, Turquie 🌬 9 °C

    Arrived this afternoon in Istanbul. It's a bit strange with the time zone, it's an hour later than Israel instead of the same time zone ie I landed 150pm Istanbul, but it was 1250pm in Israel...still trying to wrap my head around it.

    Another strange thing, I swear our Turkish Airlines flight was circling above Istanbul, I kept seeing the same inlets and landmarks over and over again, and then it was a long taxi to the gate.

    Got to the hotel easily with my transfer, and had a low key rest of the afternoon. No sightseeing though did wander a bit nearby and found a restaurant my friend had gone to. Tried a gozleme or Turkish pancake there. It was a bit touristy as there was a lady sitting in the front making it.    En savoir plus

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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient HistoryRita Yee

    Sightseeing around the Rain

    13 février 2019, Turquie 🌧 6 °C

    Rain and wind today, but I was lucky the hotel had loaner umbrellas. I decided to head over across the Golden Horn to Aga Hamami for a hamam or Turkish bath. There are some really inexpensive local places to choose from and seem higher end touristy one. After some research, I picked this place, about $40 and did the sauna, had a scrub, bubble wash and an oil massage. The Turkish bath is more about cleansing your body instead of a spa, but they tried to make it a relaxing experience. It wasn't very busy though you do get shuffled from the station to station.

    Stopped by a Starbucks on the busy shopping street after near Taksim Square and then took the metro back to the Grand Bazaar, another covered roof activity =) It's definitely touristy, and you can probably find most of you want to buy in here, even though you shouldn't. I escaped unscathed but it was lots of fun just to wander, see what's offered and do a little research on prices.

    Dinner-wise, I checked out Hanzade Terrace Restaurant. It was early, about 5pm, but I did skip lunch. Not too far a walk from the hotel and had a nice view of the Bosphorus despite the weather. Staff was really nice, and offered free appetizer and dessert. For the main, I order grilled fish and it was absolutely delish. They also gave me an apple tea after dinner, and the owner offered me a second as well, and to sit awhile because of the weather.

    My umbrella kept flipping over from the wind, and it would be a lost cause by the time I went back to hotel. Weather's supposed to get better as the days go by, On my way back, I found the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia for some nice night photos.    En savoir plus

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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient HistoryRita Yee

    Playing Tourist:Blue Mosque/Hagia Sophia

    14 février 2019, Turquie 🌬 6 °C

    Better weather today, so it was a full day of sightseeing. Bear with the next few footprints as I'll split them up to allow for more photos per location.

    1st up, The Blue Mosque. Very popular among visitors but I was a bit underwhelmed, perhaps due to all the mosques I've seen on this trip. Part of it was under renovation as well so I think we didn't quite the full effect. It is beautifully decorate

    Like the other mosques, we had to cover our hair, though a hoodie will do. If you have absolutely nothing, there are loaner scarves. Shoes-wise, you have to put them in a plastic bag and carry them around since the exit was on the opposite side. A bit of shame with all that plastic =( There must be a better system.

    The Blue Mosque is open 24/7, closed during prayers, so there is definite flexibiilty. It's also free to visit.

    Opposite the Blue Mosque is the Hagia Sophia, it's pinkish exterior the opposite the blue. You may want to get an get audio guide, though I wandered around a lot. The current building is actually the 3rd Hagia Sophia on the site. The first was a wooden church, the second was destroyed by an earthquake and this current one was a church, then converted in a mosque and is now a museum.

    The main part of the building is almost jaw dropping beautiful even with part of it covered by scaffolding for renovations/restorations. Go through the lower and upper galleries. Upstairs, you'll find some mosaics of Jesus and Mary. These mosaics were covered up during the Byzantine area and you can still see some of the Byzantine art on the ceilings and some walls.    En savoir plus

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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient HistoryRita Yee

    Playing Tourist:Cistern/Topkapi Palace

    14 février 2019, Turquie 🌬 6 °C

    A quick stop next at the Basilica Cistern nearby. I know it best from Dan Brown's Inferno, though others will recall it from other movies. Sadly it wasn't quite as beautiful as in the movie (I blame Hollywood!) but it was still cool to see the space and the columns and Medusa heads. There wasn't any water either, but one can imagine it. We also saw the weeping column. It appears wet and was carved differently from the rest, perhaps in dedication to the workers of the cistern.

    On to Topkapi Palace. I recommend spending a few hours here and some prior research of what you really want to see if you're short on time. I ended up getting the audio guide and went everywhere I could, though I'm struggling to remember (writing this a few days later) if I saw the Treasury. I must have, but there were quite a few exhibits where photos weren't allowed. The item to see of note is an 86K diamond they call the spoon diamond, but I either missed it or glazed over it. Oops.

    Otherwise, it's pretty easy to move from courtyard to courtyard and building to building. I visited rooms where the Ottomon empire decisions were made, the various kitchens, the library, the dorm for students, courtyards overlooking the Bosphorus and the harem (extra cost here).    En savoir plus

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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient HistoryRita Yee

    Playing Tourist:Galata & special museum

    14 février 2019, Turquie ⛅ 6 °C

    Wandered back over the Golden Horn again this evening. My plan was to head up Galata Tower for sunset and night lights, then over to the Museum of Innocence which is a museum curated by Orhan Pamuk the author of a book by the same name. The line up was long given it was Valentine's Day so I decided to switch it around.

    The Museum of Innocence isn't too hard to find if you have a map, but there are some hills you'll have to walk up and down. The place isn't big, about 3 floors. It's basically displays of everyday items corresponding to the chapters in the book. I think you do need to either have read the book or get the audio guide. There's a few copies of the book around so that's how I came to the conclusion, though there probably isn't enough time to read and look at the displays. In the end, it was an interesting museum but a little disappointing given the admission price. I guess I was hoping it would be similar to the Museum of Broken Relationships in Croatia that I absolutely loved.

    Back to the Galata Tower, the line had shrunken quite a bit and was moving fairly well. Outside the tower, there was a light show projecting hearts onto the wall as it was Valentine's Day. Couples were everywhere and it was a buzzing Thursday night. I made my way up to the tower and walked around outside for a beautiful 360 of Istanbul, do recommend if seeing a panorama and night lights are your thing, but otherwise, you could find a terrace restaurant or other viewpoints as well.

    Walked back over the Galata Bridge in search for dinner. I was hoping to find a balik ekmek or fresh fish sandwich that I'd seen on an episode of Rick Steves. It's basically Turkish fast food that they were off a boat near the Galata Bridge. I didn't find one on my way there, but did when I came back. There are three boats on one end of the bridge. I simple picked the busies place as it was probably good there and the fish wouldn't have been sitting too long. Another yummy meal and called it a night.    En savoir plus

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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient HistoryRita Yee

    Istanbul: Asia side

    15 février 2019, Turquie ⛅ 6 °C

    Hopped a ferry over to the Asian side today, the route: Eminonu to Kadikoy. I'd read about the neighborhood Moda on a blog as was hoping to check it out. In the end, I think I walked the edge of it and spend the majority of my time in Kadikoy. There's a tram just outside the ferry terminal I recommend catching for a quick loop around before wandering the streets to shop and eat.

    It wasn't supposed to rain today but it did, so I ended up ducking into shops here and there, and picking up a few little things. There was lots of snow globes and couples figurines, I'm curious what the story is. Thought about picking one up, but at the same time it would be heavy and bulky.

    Later on, I stumbled across the fish market, vegetables and fruit stands and restaurants. As the hours passed, the streets became livelier. I also found a place that sold kumpir, a massive Turkish baked potato. Probably not the best but it did the job as it ended up being lunch and dinner. I also had lokma for dessert, deep fried though. Cheap and yummy, I walked around the market and two of the fish vendors each took one off my container, which was weird. But since I were taking their photos, I figured it was just part of it.

    To get back to the hotel, I decided to walk to the next metro station and catch the Marmaray metro back as it had a stop at Sirkeci which was closer to the hotel. The trick though was getting to Uskudar for the stop. It would've been a really long walk, hence the metro. The Marmaray was out of service though so I was directed to a shuttle which dropped us free of charge.

    Great views of the Bosphorus looking back at the European side, I even saw the Maiden Tower in the middle of the water. Didn't see much in Uskudar, but that might be me not going far enough. Back to the hotel for an early night as we start our group tour tomorrow    En savoir plus

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  • Rita YeeInto Ancient HistoryRita Yee

    Princes' Islands: Buyukada

    16 février 2019, Turquie ⛅ 6 °C

    Headed out to Buyukada Island today, it's part of a group of 9 islands that make up the Princes' Islands.The ferry calls at the 4 biggest. There are no motorized cars on the islands, though I did see a police van and two trucks in my walk.

    I don't suppose there's a lot to do but get away from busy city life. It was pretty quiet, I ended up avoiding the touristy bits by getting straight out and walking through a neighborhood of opulent and decrepit mansions. It was quite neat to see and they seem to have varying designs and belonging to different eras. If you head uphill, the houses do get more modest.

    You'll also see motorized scooters and bikes to help residents and visitors get around. Some people will do carriage rides, but I read that not all the horses are taken care of, so opted out. If you prefer to stick to the touristy bits, veer left when exiting the ferries to access the restaurants along the water and about 2 streets of shops.

    I ended up taking the 3pm ferry back to Sultanahmet and the hotel. A beautiful and relaxing boat ride for this 4th day in beautiful Istanbul. After getting back, I blitzed through the Spice Market nearby and then chilled out a bit before meeting my fellow travellers for the next 2 weeks.    En savoir plus

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    Istanbul Reprised and onto Bolu

    17 février 2019, Turquie ☀️ -1 °C

    Went on an orientation walk this morning with my tour group. We passed many sites I've already been but I still learned new things like short cuts and wandered on new streets. We also visited Suleymaniye Mosque which was on my list to visit when we were to return in 2 weeks. Like those who've been there and the Blue Mosque, I did like this one much better and found it prettier with the tiles outside and the low light fixture inside. We also got a gorgeous view of the other side of the Golden Horn from the gardens.

    Lunch was a quick affair, and we got to try a delicious cag kebab. Normally a dish from Eastern Turkey, the owner had moved to Istanbul where we got to stop by. In this style, thin slices of lamb are skewered and cooked. You then wrap some pita around the meat (still on the skewer) to slide it off. Add some salad if you wish and eat it, all wrapped inside the bread.

    Back at the hotel, we got into our van and started our drive towards Bolu for our night stop en route to Cappadocia. Driving through Istanbul was very cool as we went further north in the city to cross the Bosphorus Bridge. At once I knew I needed to revisit this magical city one day and explore what this part of the city had to offer now that we'd explored the neighborhoods by the Golden Horn.

    As we left urban Istanbul aside, the landscape changed as we climbed in altitude. Mountains, and even snow lined our route to the city of Bolu. There's not much there, but we got to try a style of gozleme native to the region for dinner. You can opt to get it with yogurt and tomato sauce on top of cut gozleme. We also stopped for some famous Bolu chocolate. Other than that, not much to do here, but it the heights of winter, I believe this place turns into a bit of a ski resort.    En savoir plus

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    Ankara Pit Stop

    18 février 2019, Turquie ☀️ -2 °C

    Leaving behind chilling Bolu, we made a quick stop into the Turkish capital of Ankara to visit Ataturk's mausoleum. G tours used to run and overnight in Ankara, but apparently that changed with the bombings in 2016.

    Our visit felt quite short to walk down Lions Alley, visit the museum and Ataturk's mausoleum itself. Lions Alley gave us a few nice views over the city. The museum exhibits opposite the mausoleum are skippable, as the main attraction is the museum that surrounds the mausoleum itself.

    We stared in wonder at the war recreations while audio tracks added to our imaginations and then blitzed through the rest of the place. I actually didn't get time to see the mausoleum itself, but did catch part of the changing of the guard.

    After leaving Ankara, we stopped at MODA for Turkish ice cream called Dondurum. It's supposed to be so thick and chewy you needed a knife and fork to eat it. Delicious though not chewy, just very thick and creamy. We would later have more of this ice cream but in the form of a cone.    En savoir plus

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