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Vagabonding

agosto 2022 - junio 2025
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Alrededor del mundo, Bicicleta, Amistad, Naturaleza, Fotografía, Viaje en solitario, Fauna
  • 18,6kkilómetros recorridos
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  • 206huellas
  • 1.038días
  • 1,0kfotos
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  • ViajeroVagabonding
    1

    Kares Askyfou

    23 de marzo de 2024, Grecia ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Oh boy, my legs are untrained again. I've been crawling up this hill for two hours and stopped so often, even though the gradient isn't really that steep. A podcast provides me with a distraction, which makes it fun even if I‘m crawling along at walking pace. 😬

    In Kares Askyfou I roll over the ridge and see a wide plateau in front of me. I stop off at the Panorama Café and enjoy the altitude I've gained with a homemade cake dripping with honey. It replenishes my energy reserves in no time and I swing back into the saddle of my trusty steed.

    Then we ride down the hairpin bends while the views remain fantastic. 🚴‍♂️💨

    If you have the feeling that the Balkans are dangerous, please have a look at the road sign in the gallery. I’ve seen many holes in many signs so far. 🫣
    Maybe that’s why the geese are so happy here, or at least that’s what I gather from their behaviour. 🤨    Leer más

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  • ViajeroVagabonding

    14 days in Chania

    5 de marzo de 2024, Grecia ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    It's amazing - the two weeks here fly by and every few days there's a new connection or activity. While working in the hostel, I meet Theo, who takes me into the mountains and gives me an insight into Cretan cuisine. We share dishes of eggplants, mushrooms and bread and everything tastes so delicious. 🥰
    Sated, we drive through the mountains in his silver-grey speedster and I enjoy the view without having to work for it on my bike. 😊 Shortly before sunset, we have a coffee with a view over Souda Bay.

    I meet up again with Tim and Jonas, the two German cycle travellers, for a coffee party on the beach. There is coffee, cake and some nice trash music about having coffee and cake with friends.
    And we scrabble. 🤓

    A few days later, I'm sitting at a snack bar in the pedestrian zone and squint at a huge poster of a ship hanging in the foyer of the building across the street. It's the municipal art gallery. My interest draws me to the entrance area of the building. There, Anthony and his colleague tell me that there is no exhibition on at the moment, so they can only show me a short slideshow of the most important works rather than actual paintings.

    We quickly deepen the conversation over a coffee and shortly afterwards I'm sitting with Anthony in a local restaurant having a lesson in Greek - covering the culture, the alphabet and pronunciation. I finally pass the final test when I toast the mayor of Chania, who had bought us a lemonade shortly beforehand. What a day!

    Today, 18th March, is "Kathara Deftera" in Greece, the "pure Monday", which corresponds to the German Rosenmontag. Now the fasting period begins, which is supposed to cleanse the body and soul. People everywhere are enjoying the good weather and time with their families and friends and flying kites 🪁. My programme starts earlier this morning because I want to run the first few kilometres of the day along the beach and harbour promenade with the local jogging group (I don't miss out on the unique invitation to the event).
    In the afternoon, I organise a 'small' excursion with my flatmates to a festival 'a few beaches away'. We hike and hike and hike and ... the festival seems like a mirage on the horizon and always one bay away. 😜 My hunger comes and goes, but the pleasant conversations with the other travellers make the time pass quickly. We finally arrive and have to watch as the last remnants of the traditional lentil soup are scraped out of the pots and distributed right before our eyes. With a sad look on her face, the nice lady behind the counter explains that unfortunately there is nothing left for us. 🤷‍♀️
    I briefly peer into one of the pots and if I had my silicone scraper with me, I could easily scoop three more meals out of the large pots. 😋
    We find another beautiful rocky bay and jump into the water. It's pleasant as long as I keep moving and yet - my whole body is shaking as I try to get back to land ten minutes later. I never thought I would be so sensitive to the cold. A sunbath warms me up again and then we hike back through the countryside, past wild thyme and a few other plants that I can't identify.
    As the sun sets, you can still see some of the hexagonal kites in the sky.
    The memory is still vivid the next day because I can feel every muscle. 😇    Leer más

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  • ViajeroVagabonding

    Elafonisi Beach

    4 de marzo de 2024, Grecia ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    The route through the mountains is long but fun. Nobody else is likely to get here - especially not by bike - Komoot once again finds the craziest routes. 👍
    In one of the mountains along the way is the Cave of Saint Sofia - or the Cave of God's Wisdom. My assumption that this may be just a small niche in the rock is dispelled when I see its dimensions.

    There are several stalagmites in the centre, estimated to be around five metres high.
    Arrows to the left indicate a circular route. Here we go.
    First stop: a small hut on the edge of the cave. The dark little room doesn't exactly inspire confidence, but I guess no one is going to hurt me in this religious site.
    I continue the walk behind the stalagmites and a little deeper into the cave. It's pitch dark here and it takes me about three minutes to get round. Back at the entrance, I realise that the tour really was longer than I thought.

    Elafonisi Beach wasn't really pink, just a little bit. The colour has to build up again.
    On the beach I meet up with Amelie and Olivia again, who I had already bumped into in Chania. Because it's almost sunset time I have to get going again as the best spots in the forest are probably already taken.

    The evening and night are very windy. I'm at the riverbed and at first I have trouble putting up the tent and then it's not so pleasant inside. I'm constantly worried that the tarpaulin will tear and as soon as I've calmed down, a strong gust of wind comes and pushes the fabric into my face. 😑    Leer más

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  • ViajeroVagabonding

    Balos Beach

    3 de marzo de 2024, Grecia ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Today's programme: a trip to Balos beach and its lagoon.
    I fight my way along a really good gravel track to the upper part of the headland.
    My plan to spend the night up there is thwarted by the signs prohibiting everything - there's no room for interpretation in case of a discussion. 😬
    This leaves me a little less time to marvel - but it's enough. The view is extraordinarily good.
    The colour scheme at this location couldn't be more beautiful: you walk along a path of ochre-coloured sand with small blue stones. Small green bushes grow to the left and right of the path. Then you can see the lagoon with its turquoise blue water and the island behind it, which rises out of the water with rich grey rocks.

    In the evening I quickly find a nice place to sleep on the beach in a well-preserved garden. 🥰    Leer más

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  • ViajeroVagabonding

    Chania

    2 de marzo de 2024, Grecia ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    Straight from the ferry, I pop into a café for a hearty breakfast.
    Then I roll through the town. While visiting the weekly market, it suddenly starts to rain and I seek shelter in a café.
    I sit there briefly until two smiling faces peek out from behind an umbrella and introduce themselves as Tim and Jonas. They are also travelling on bikes, but are working here for the next few months.
    Shortly afterwards, two more persons join us and we have a great chat.
    Wow - I've only had this much contact in Athens after two(?) weeks - the small towns are really lively.

    I spend the afternoon with Tim and Jonas and then we head west for a little while, where Balos Beach and its lagoon are already waiting for me.    Leer más

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  • ViajeroVagabonding

    A sea voyage is fun

    1 de marzo de 2024, Aegean Sea ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    The crossing to Crete goes as expected. I grab one of the remaining seats and fill it with my stuff.
    The good seats are already gone, a couple of professional ferry guests must have been here much earlier to reserve the couches they are now watching over. Unlike me, they certainly didn't have to ask three other cutters if this was the right boat to take you to the new world. ^^
    Sleeping cabins cost a lot more, so only a few people treat themselves to this luxury and most are content to spend the night on the ferry in one of the armchairs.
    During an overnight crossing on a ship like this, you can carry out all kinds of sociological and psychological studies. I watch with fascination how everyone copes with the situation of limited bedding options and what solutions are worked out for this problem.
    I remember the film Men in Black, in which they are looking for new recruits for an agent position. The selection process includes a written test for which the candidates are given a sharp but fragile pencil and taken to a completely unsuitable room that offers all applicants only a single small table to write on.
    In analogy to the situation on the ferry, the environment is also rather unsuitable for sleeping and so you find only a few people on the cosy couches and the majority in a more upright position in an armchair, some in two armchairs, a few on the floor.
    It's interesting that the ferry companies know that their cabins are comparatively expensive and that most passengers will simply fall asleep in the lounges - but they wouldn't dream of making the seating more suitable for sleeping. Without exception, all the armchairs and chairs have backrests and comparisons with cities and municipalities that use the same strategy to try and displace their homeless people come to mind.
    It is now 11 pm. We've been on the road for two hours and the guests are starting to feel tired. Everyone? Not at all! For one elderly fellow, whom I'll call Rudi, the evening is only just beginning. He sets up his music system and begins to enthral the room with cultural music.
    Some travellers - myself included - keep glancing over at Rudi and then at the waiters who should be concerned that everybody in the room feels comfortable. But instead of telling Rudi to be quiet and sensible, they have a nice chat with him.
    A group of people starts dancing and I suspect that there is a solid reason to celebrate that I don't know about. To avoid disturbing the party and still get some rest, I move to another room.
    In the end, I find a fairly comfortable construction of three chairs, which serves as my bed for the night. The designers hadn't reckoned on me being able to squeeze myself snake-like under the armrests. HA!    Leer más

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  • ViajeroVagabonding

    Kalambaka (Meteora)

    23 de febrero de 2024, Grecia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The monasteries of Meteora were highly recommended to me last year. Geographically, the rock formations there are similar to the German Elbe Sandstone Mountains - but the orthodox monks in the 14th century improved that and crowned the rocky peaks with monasteries. :O
    Initially, the monasteries were so inaccessible that they could only be reached by rope ladders, but older monks were lucky enough to be hoisted up with the goods lift. It wasn't until the 1930s that stone steps were built, making the monastery accessible to tourists.

    I hike to the three monasteries of the Holy Trinity, Varlaam and St Stephen. In between, I climb the rocks against the spectacular backdrop of the deep plain below me. Fond memories of my time in nature come flooding back. Since mid-December, I have been spending time in big cities and I feel that nature needs to take up more space again in the coming months.
    Soon there will be that time again. :)

    Unfortunately, it is forbidden to take photos inside the monasteries and the interpretation of the Orthodox icon paintings remains a mystery to me, but I really like the way the paintings are painted because of their colourful expression.
    I walk through the rooms like a blind chicken and look at the paintings without knowing their history. A severed head here, severed limbs there - ah yes, you can't seem to get by without violence. But it seems to have its righteousness, because everyone in the painting looks quite happy - with the exception of the decapitated man, who has a sad expression on his face.
    I prefer to concentrate on the type of painting.

    During my later research, I find out a few basics about the production and technique of the icons: a special process is necessary to ensure that the paintings remain true to colour for a long time.
    The surface to be painted (walls, marble, wood) is first primed with several layers of gesso so that the colour can penetrate deep enough. This is then finely polished. The colours are mixed together using colour pigments and egg yolk, which has been known since ancient times as a super binder and makes the colours seemingly incredibly long-lasting. The paintings are then created using the colours and gold leaf.

    Icons are intended to show a window to the divine and are therefore not an image of the real thing. They dispense with perspective, shadows and typical (earthly) lighting rules and reduce the motif to the essentials.

    Adam - a traveller from South Africa - says over a glass of red wine in the evening "The monasteries here are great, but when I saw the Lidl I was happy. I know exactly what I'm getting. And then raves for a long time about the regional sweets you can buy there. =)    Leer más

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  • ViajeroVagabonding

    Christmas in Germany

    18 de diciembre de 2023, Grecia ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    North, east, south or west - at home I feel the best - or am I?

    No matter where I am - it would be the wrong place. I don't feel comfortable in my own skin and oscillate between the need for peace and quiet and the need for distraction.
    Lying in the sun on a beautiful island somewhere would be the right thing to do, but it's not possible at the moment.
    The decision is made: I'm travelling to Germany (the bike stays in Athens with a trustworthy bike dealer).
    The weather back home is particularly troublesome for me, because in Greece I at least had sunshine every now and then. 😬
    I spend time with my nieces and my godchildren. We like to play hide and seek - but I'll probably teach her how to find the really good hiding places in the future ;)

    So the days go by and slowly, very slowly I feel better - not that the time with the family isn't nice, but my typical everyday life has changed.
    I have changed.
    I no longer fit into the old life I left behind and I'm finding it difficult to fit back into my old surroundings. One evening I attend an international meeting in Berlin to socialise more with strangers - strange as it may sound - but that's what I enjoy now.

    Two family events lead to me extending my stay and finally returning to Athens at the beginning of February.    Leer más

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  • ViajeroVagabonding

    Athens socializing

    15 de diciembre de 2023, Grecia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    There is said to have been an inside joke in the 90s :
    'What is the capital of Albania? - Omonoia. At the time this was
    a reference to the large proportion of Albanian residents in the Athens neighbourhood.
    A few hundred metres from the metro station, my hostel is in the middle of a district that reminds me more of Morocco: the pavements are rather worn, there are vegetable vendors lined up next to snack stalls and electronic accessory shops - all selling the same thing. How do the mobile phone case shops that have recently appeared actually earn their money? Surely the profits from plastic covers shouldn't be that high?
    Actually, I feel comfortable here despite the dingy impression and I've had very good experiences with Moroccans and Albanians so far anyway. ☺️
    Walking through the neighbourhoods, I try to formulate my impressions. There are gaps here and there in the rows of houses. Destroyed houses fall into disrepair next to new buildings, here and there you can simply look into the cellars of the houses or climb in. There are pavements in some neighbourhoods, but they are not always narrow. You then take to the streets.
    The nearby meat market fulfils my expectations: here you can see fish on ice, sheep without ice (without skin) and everything in between.

    Building here must be quite expensive - if you have to reckon with an ancient building being uncovered at any time when digging the cellar and the house either having to be built on stilts or losing part of its footprint.
    Some buildings seem to adapt to the ruins and have been built around and on top of them - old and new coexist.

    I search for peace and quiet here for a long time - and rarely find it. The sound of the many cars and scooters penetrates every alleyway and mixes into a permanent background noise that I try to escape. Without pads in my ears, I am stressed.
    I finally escape to the city's parks and find a good jogging route, which also gives me a good view of the city.

    In the hostels, I change my strategy and now often talk to new people - unlike at the beginning of my trip, when I was just starting out.
    In contrast to the beginning of my trip, when I travelled through the country for a long time with almost no contact 😃. It's also nice to socialise and that's how I get to know Jonas and Ashley. Together we explore several exit rooms - first on the trail of an investigator in a haunted house, then in a psychiatric institution (with actors) and finally we brew the elixir of life.

    In the evening, I sit together with Napoleon, Cinderella, Princess Tiana, Mr Addams and Mia Khalifa in the games cafe and play charades.
    During our group self-discovery, we also exchange cultural idiosyncrasies and get on really well.    Leer más

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  • ViajeroVagabonding

    At the Gulf of Korinth

    14 de diciembre de 2023, Grecia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    I stand on a rock and look out over the Gulf of Corinth, the sun's rays reflected in its steel-blue waters. A few fishing boats have cast their nets and are dancing on the waves. I can see small and large islands in the distance and feel the warmth of the sun on my skin.

    I'm carrying my bike on my shoulders and anyone who could see me now would think I'd had enough of cycling and was about to throw it into the ocean. In fact, I briefly toy with the idea and smile to myself, then carry it down to the beach and put it back together again.
    Yesterday evening I had chosen a nice beach to spend the night, but it was too uncomfortable for an overnight stay. At the end of the beach, I found a small path that led up a hill with a beautiful view over the water.
    I also got used to the express train to Athens, which rushed past every 90 minutes or so 🙂    Leer más

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