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Round-the-south
  • Sara Lyn
Feb – Jul 2017

Round-the-south

Pengembaraan 145hari oleh Sara Baca lagi
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  • Sara LynRound-the-southPengembara
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    11

    Pucon- And relax

    2 April 2017, Chile ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    With gray skies and rain James' hopes of climbing the volcano were dwindling fast. We were advised that the Geometricas thermal spa was worth a visit on such a dismal day.

    After a bumpy two hour ride, nestled st the foot of the volcano we arrived at a little valley full of pools that winded slong unil it ended with a waterfall. The pool temperatures varied from a chilly 7 celsius to a scorching 45. James was couldn't be persuaded to try the 7 degrees, but I took the plung for about 10 seconds, before runnning to the nearest warm pool!

    It was raining the whole time producing a strange sensation of bring hot yet having refreshing cold rain on your head. After 2 hours we were like prunes and headed to the sanctuary of the small cafe. They served really good pizza which warmed us up.

    On arriving back to the hostel we switched rooms to stay in a hobbit room. With a round door and a very comfy double bed it was bliss! At the bar a few Israelis were performing some card tricks, a few I figured out! We enjoyed an amazing meal by the hostel chef Jamie- a fish chowder and beef goulash. Amazing and better by far than anything we could ever cook up.

    The next day we lazed about and caught up on some life admin before getting the night bus to Santiago.    Baca lagi

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  • Sara LynRound-the-southPengembara
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    Santiago

    5 April 2017, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Our hostel in Santiago was Castillo Surfista, a welcoming site at 9 o clock after a very claustrophobic metro ride (James insisted on coffee after the bus which pushed us into rush hour. The commuters weren't to impressed with our space hogging bags. Sardines in a can...literally).

    Our mission for the first day was to locate a camping shop to pick up sleeping bags and mats needed for the Dragoman tour. We took the now emptier metro to a colossal shopping centre which was strangely british. I spotted Oasis, The Body shop, Lush and Whittards! As tourists certain shops offered us 10% off including the camping shops. After some debate we settled on Doite a Chiloan brand that we had used for W trek. Hopefully the bags will keep us toasty warm up on the Bolivian altiplano!

    We were starving on getting back to the hostel and raised the local supermarket for sandwiches and empanadas as well as burgers for super. In the hostel courtyard we chatted to the other guests, most of which were starting to work there. Loping around was a very big labrador-dobberman cross called Duke. There were signs everywhere warning of his greed as James found out. He left a sandwich on the table and within seconds Duke had gobbled the whole thing!
    The evening passed helping a English traveller plan his W trek, and chatting away over multiple bottles of wine.

    The next day we embarked on our 7th walking tour by our guide Franco. Chilian history has been as turbulant as Argentinas. Civil war raged for centuries between the Spanish and the local tribe, while later in its history military coups led to terror before democracy was regained.

    Whilst a massive city, Santiago has an open feel with a lot of parks and a few hills but heavily polluted with smog. We meandered through the streets up to Bellavista the student and nightlife area. I bought a wine pipe hear which I'm looking forward to using with my Mendoza wine when I camp on the Dragoman tour.

    After the tour we crossed the city to the meeting hostel of the Dragoman tour. For one month we will be travelling with 8 other people, 2 members of crew and one big truck. From Santiago to Cusco, crossing the andes, a 3 day stay in a ranch, the salt flats and a machu piccu trek are some of the highlights. I can't wait!    Baca lagi

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  • Sara LynRound-the-southPengembara
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    Dragoman D1- Over the Andes

    6 April 2017, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    At an eyewatering 6am we were up and breakfasted and had our first glimps of the 11th member of our group, Mamasita. A big white and orange bus-truck she would be our transport for the next 31 days. She can carry 23 people so with only 8 of us on the tour we have plenty of space. Within her she has a library, a fridge, speakers, heaters, charging point, tables to play cards. When we are off road she has roof seats (with seat belts Mam!) to get the best views. Underneath she carries gallons of drinking water, all our camping equipment and more. We are fully self sufficient.

    Our guides are David and Lou. David is our driver and engineer, having driven HGV for years, his last job was as the maintainance man at a buddist monestry. Lou is our leader, originally on a Dragoman tour years ago they recruited her after that trip.

    On board with us are Sheila and John a retired couple who are on their second Dragoman tour. Bob and Faye an Australian couple on their honeymoon. Charlotte, from London who is a big traveller, and Izzy who has just graduated from Uni.

    We set off in the darkness heading over the andes towards Mendoza in Argentina. As daylight began to creep upon us we could start to see the outlines of the great mountains around us. As we went round a corner a great gorge or a snow peaked mountain could await us. We worked upwards switchback after switchback to the top of Christ the redeemer pass. Mamasita had no problems.

    After the border and a stop for lunch (empanadas if course) the great mountain Ancaguon rose up, the highest in South America. Afterwards we decended down and the mountains melted into lysh green vineyards that would go on for miles. We had arrived in wine country!

    On arrival to the hostel we found to our horror that tours on a bike round the vineyards had increased their price to £65. Luckily we started chatting to a young American couple in the hostel that recommended catching a bus to Maipu, hiring bikes and visiting the winiries our selves. A plan was made!    Baca lagi

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  • Sara LynRound-the-southPengembara

    Dragoman D2- Wine and Mr Hugo

    7 April 2017, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    A group of 6 of us were dropped in front of Mr Hugo bikes in Maipu, one of the closest wine regions to the city of Mendoza. A jolly man in his 70's he gave us a bike each, and each was worse then the other. Brakes were poor, gears wouldn't change but they worked and we didn't have far to go, so they would do. Mr Hugo showed us a route on the map and we set off to our first winery. Less than 5km away disaster struck and James had a puncture. He cycled quickly back to Mr Hugo for a fresh bike, while we arrived at the first winery.

    Domiciano was a family run vineyard with pretty gray buildings. Its main vineyard lay 20km away, this being a show vineyard of sorts. We started with wine tasting, trying their chardonnay, shirah and a reserva malbec. All delicious and the guide gave such good description of the time and effort that goes in to produce each bottle. Their grapes are hand collected at night to stop them from fermenting early. They had recently won in an international competition, beating over 4400 other wines.

    As we were customers of Mr Hugo we had an extra wine to taste of our choice. The other people in the tasting were green with envy! Afterwards we had a small tour of the wine barrells, and walked through a small vineyard tasting the grapes. As we left we noticed that I now had a flat tyre. My quads had to kick in again after their training at Bariloche.

    We headed to our next destination, a wine museum. Full of old tools, eqiupment and massive barrels to explore. They let you exchange your ticket for a bottle of wine, so by combining our tickets we got a very nice red to be used after a particularly good day on the trip!

    Peckish by now we beelined to a beer garden via Mr Hugo where I picked up another bike. Good pizza and craft beer fuled us back up, and we had a 10% discount courtesy of Mr Hugo.

    Our last stop was a food craft store, again family run which made olive oil, tamponades, jams and liqours. We tasted them all and were very happy after the liqours, some such as the dulce de leche liqour we bought being 21%.

    Dropping our bikes back off with Mr Hugo he have us a lemonade to sober up before the bus back to Mendoza. A hug before leaving, his bikes may be bad but the deals we had everywhere due to Mr Hugo had been worth it. The whole day including the produce we had bought (a lot of alcohol) had come to cheaper than any full day tour on offer. Budget travelling at its best!    Baca lagi

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  • Sara LynRound-the-southPengembara
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    Dragoman D3+4 Abandon truck

    9 April 2017, Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Again an early start was had from Mendoza as we were to have 2 days of travelling to our next destination, a ranch above Cordoba. Miles upon miles of vineyards gave way to farms full of cattle and horses.

    We have all been given jobs whilst on the trip. James is one of the luggage loaders whilst I get the weird combination of binlady and librarian. A few hours into the trip I take my job seriously and go sort out the library, and a pack of Uno! We have also been divided into cook groups when camping. James and I have been divided into rival cook groups. Whilst mine is pretty chilled - we easiy went round a Walmart of all places to get our ingredients. James' had a little more tension as they prepared our lunch!

    A few hours of Uno and a great Spotify throwback Thursday powerballad playlist later and we arrived at our camp of the night. By the side of a riverbed it was quite picturesque, with woodpeckers and tropical birds. We were introduced to the Dragoman tents. Though modern-ish they are designed on the tents from the 70's and are pitch black inside!

    Joining our group huddle for super were the camp cat and dog. The dog took James' fancy immediately as a golden retriever and we called him Shadow. He would hold a pebble in his mouth and expect you to throw it like a stick. After a bitternhot choclate we headed for bed.

    Next morning we set off for a 5 hour drive to the ranch. Within 10 minutes we took a swing to a dirt road which was famous for being a pilgrimage with great views over the area. The truck stopped and it was announced that we coukd take roof seats!! From then top of the trucks we had a brilliant views and the road climbed up to the clouds.... the drizzly clouds, the first rain in months.

    As we rounded a corner a muddy uphill was seen and Mamasita tried but the wheels kept spinning and we slid towards a wall. We were stuck. We all got out and set down traction mats to no avail. We were officially 8km away from the main road and the next village. We had lunch and waited it out as David ran for help and we flagged down help from some passers by. A policeman came up and was helpful considering we were a bunch of gringos getting stuck on his road on palm Sunday.

    We waited it out as a convoy of taxis were called to get us and a plannwas hatched on how to free poor Mamasita. We found a nice hotel and waited for news. Only an hour later Mamasita was parked innfron David having dug under the wheel and placed rocks for traction, reversing her a few km back through the windy road and oerforming a 44 point turn to get her back!

    We deserved a meal out and it was Faye's birthday. We wound down over good food and wine hoping for a smooth running day to the ranch tomorrow!!    Baca lagi

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  • Sara LynRound-the-southPengembara
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    Dragoman D5 The Estancia!

    10 April 2017, Argentina ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    A quick breakfast in the hotel (very poor compared to hostels!) we again started towards the Estancia. With clear blue skies, we could see the mountainous terrain which was lurking in the mist yesterday. Stopping for photos we pulled up next to a swooping circle of condors, massive birds that glide effortlessly through the sky.

    After lunch (empanadas of course) we stopped, seemingly in the middle of nowhere at some gates. No signpost but the guides knew their way. We trundled down a narrow bumpy road for 10 minutes before rounding a corner to the sight of pretty white buildings with terracotta roof tiles. Two elderly horses were wandering around and a host of chickens.

    Waiting for us was Bea, with riding boots and a beret hat she looked the part of a gaucho. Greeting her in Spanish she quickly said hello back ahe was from England. Handing us a lemonade each she gave us a tour of the estancia and explained her role as the manager.

    About a mile from the main house, our little huddle of buildings are the home of the owner and arw used for Dragoman trips aftert over a decade of partnership. With a BBQ area, kitchen and games room we had all that we needed. We set up camp in the field in front with views of green hills and birds of pray swooping above.

    I left James to set up camp as I was on cooking duty. With David in the lead, Bob and I chopped onions, garlic, ginger, carrots and pepper to make a ginger chicken curry. It had a massive thumbs up from everyone.

    At 8 we met in the games room, tonight a pair of local men were coming to entertain us with local Gaucho music. They were called Willy and Charlie and were such showmen. Charlie looked to be in his late 50's with shaggy grey hair and a bit of a paunch. He had a powerfull voice, and on doing a cover of the rolling stones, did a great Mick Jagger impression. Willy was younger, had two gold front teeth, he could play 3 drums at once, wih his hands would be a blur. A talanted musician he could also play a pipe and a small guitar instrument traditional to the area. A few hours later and very happy after a few glasses we rolled into our tents.    Baca lagi

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  • Sara LynRound-the-southPengembara

    Dragoman D6 Goucho riding and Asado

    10 April 2017, Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    At 10 o clock we were bouncing around the back of Bea's pick up truck, being ferried tobthe main house for horseback riding. The main house was grander in stature, surrounded by stables and sat in beautiful surroundings, this is where you can come stay for a riding holiday for £150 a night.

    We were geared up with helmets and introduced to our horses which they had matched according to our riding abilities. I'm a complete begginer and I was matched to a beautiful mahogany mare called Sinpatica, which means kindness. She was a very gentle, if greedy horse and would listen to my commands about 70% of the time. She loved to be at the front of the pack so if I tried to drop back she ignored me.

    In South America you ride in a different style to Britian (not that I would know). You hold the rains in one hand only, using pull back for stop, and gently pressung the rains against their neck for turning. A kissy noise would make them start and kicks to go quicker, or in my horse's case to tell her off for eating.

    We rode for an hour and a half in glorious sunshine. Our hostess Bea was born in Kenya, grew up in Britain and had first come to the estancia as a guest. She returned as a guide and then persuaded the owner to take her on as a manager.

    Returning to the mainhouse we had a lunch of empanadas with salad before returning to our part of the estancia. With the sunshine continuing I sunbathed and enjoyed a book while watching the chef for the night prepare the asado (South American BBQ). James and Izzy played football with the pack of dogs. They have three collies (Hagis, Clyde and Gilly) and a labrador (trumpet) along with two strays.

    At 7 we were rounded up served wine and we sat down with Kevin the owner of the estancia. Its been in his family for 3 generations since they emigrated from Scotland. The main buisnessnes is still cattle rearing but he and his brother looking to further their income started riding holidays on the side. Trying to get their venture off the ground they went to a travel expose in the UK to attract attention. As a small stall no one paid attention until the founder of Dragoman came for a chat. He explained that between Mendoza and Salta his trucks had nothing to visit and their estancia sounded perfect. The rest is history as Drago trucks have been visiting the estancia for 16 years, around 25 trucks a year. Their riding holiday buisness picked up with time but the dragoman partnership helped them on their way.

    We were fed well that night with ribs, beef, sausages and chicken. We ended the night in the games room making our own music, trying to accompany David's digerydoo.    Baca lagi

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  • Sara LynRound-the-southPengembara
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    D7 Dragoman- Top of the world

    12 April 2017, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Again by 10 in the morning we were ferried to the horses. Unlike yesterday it was a misty day, giving an eerie feel as we set off in a line. I jumped onto Sinpatica and with growing confidence she didn't push her luck with all the snacking today and listened maybe 90% of the time. She even chilled out in the middle of the pack for an hour or so before marching her way back to the front.

    As we made our way higher and higher the size of their estancia became aparent as it streched out for miles around us. At an open field we had a chance to canter and it was exhilerating to fly through a few fields whilst also holding on to the saddle for dear life!! We continued until we reached "top of the world", the highest point in the estancia. The mist had cleared and you had a 360 breathtaking view of the estancia and the valley below.

    Returning to the Dragoman camp, we had a few hours to relax and have supper before wine tasting with Kevin. He poured 4 different wines, while passing around little bottles with smells as part of a competition to see how many we could get right. They were smells like fruits and incensce that you would expect in a wine bouquet. I was apalling and only got 3 right. He handed out prizes for our riding. I won most improved rider and Charlotte the best rider. We recieved a nice bottle of Malbec! Izzy had the best nose and won a bottle of champagne! With an early start we retured to bed, very sad to be leaving this wonderful little haven in Argentina.    Baca lagi

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  • Sara LynRound-the-southPengembara

    D8+9 Dragoman- Journey to Salta

    14 April 2017, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    With time to make up we had an early start and a long journey ahead to get to Salta. Setting our tents down with head torches and carefully loading the growing number of wine bottles onto the bus, we set off.

    As dusk drew near we turned off to our first bush camp. Not the best place, in some scrub near a river bed the local mossies started their attack. Fending them off Charlotte and I set the tents up on sandy ground while James and Izzy cooked a nice meal considering they had to shop at a cash and carry! Retreating from the mossie onslaught it was a hot and stuffy night in the tent so no one minded the 5 am wake up call the next day. Having deeted to the high heavens I had escaped without any bites until I went for a bush wee before I left. The mossies left me 15 bites as a present. The bastards!

    Down a hill a few hours later and we arrived in Salta, a large and religious city. We set out to explore and aimed for the main square where the cathedral lies and found the museum for high altitude archeology. It was a facinating exhibition on the Inca child sacrifices found on mountain tops around the andes. A honour for the children who were from the higher classes in society, they were paraded to Cusco and then paraded up to the mountain top. Given a strong alcoholic drink, hit over the head and buried at the top of the mountain along with precious relics. The girl on display at the museum had been struck by lightening after her buriel, the left side of her body was charred. It was surreal to see, and hard to understand such an alien culture.

    After a siesta (making like the locals) we attended the end of mass at the cathedral. Over 3000 people must have been in attendance as their was no spare seat and many were standing. An impressive space the alter had an aweinspiring golden halo. After the service a procession started around the main square. They carried a statue of Jesus on the cross, stopping at each of the stationsof the cross. It was humbling to see a city where religion is still part of its lifeblood.

    Our next stop was a lively Peña. A traditional place where gauchos would come to eat, socialize and sing. On Balacarce street most were touristy with a stage set and groups singing with folk dancers below them. We had some good empanadas (spicy meat snd ham and cheeee) and tried a tamales. We tried wine from Cafayate since we missed the region. At one point I was dragged off by a dancer to join in a folk dance version of the conga and the hokey cokey! Peñas are definately a must in Salta. With tiredness coming over us after the early start we retired to bed at 1 o clock.    Baca lagi

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  • Sara LynRound-the-southPengembara

    Dragoman D10- Purple hair and a Peña

    15 April 2017, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Continuing with tradition we took a walking tour around Salta. The guide was away (or hungover?!) so he sent his friend. Luckily he was knowledgable and his confidence in English grew as the tour went along. We passed the San Fransiscan church, down to the base of the San Barnado hill and to the statue of General Guemes a hero ofbthe region. Finishing the tour he gave us a great tips on a place to have lunch, the patio of empanadas and a peña to visit later.

    Salta is the capitol of empanadas in Argentina and the Patio of Empanadas did not disappoint. We had Arab style, Jerky and Carne along with Tamucos, which arw corn paste and chorizo wrapped in leaves. Across the tables I recognised a couple that we had last met a month ago in El Chalten! We caught up with their travels and are sure to see them again before Lima.

    Next stop was up the hill with the cable cars for a brilliant view over Salta. Walking down we passed shrines that respresented the stations of the cross caked in candle wax, it had been a pilgrim route on Good Friday.

    After siesta it was time for a make over, my rainbow hair for Carnaval had long faded into blonde and green. Having finally tracked down some purple hair dye, Izzy and Charlotte became my colourists and my hair now matches my down jacket!

    Chatting to the local staff in the hostel Izzy had tracked down an authentic Peña a taxi ride away. Called Casona del Milonio its down on Maps.me as a house of worship its revered so much in the community. Arriving at opening time there was already a queue of locals at the door and we luckily grabbed a table in the same room as two groups of locals with guitar cases and drums by their feet. The place had around 6 rooms and 2 courtyards full of people. Ordering some wine and an array of empanadas (jerky, carne and cheese and ham), tamucos, humitas and a plate of cheese we watched as intruments started coming out of the cases.

    A family across from us and a group of young people started taking it in turn to sing goucho music. They sang all night all sorts of folk songs. It was an amazing experience, I only wish I understood more Spanish to understand the lyrics of the songs. A man from Puerto Iguasu joined our table, a chiropractor by trade he offered all the girls massages, but the offer didn't extend to James! With our money running out we reluctantly left the Peña. Definetely the must do thing in Salta.    Baca lagi

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  • Sara LynRound-the-southPengembara
    1

    Dragoman D11 The hill of seven colours

    16 April 2017, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Leaving Salta behind we headed to Purmamarca the home of the hill of seven colours.On the way we passed through a devastated village now raised to the ground after the mass floodings and mudslides in February.

    When arriving at our destination the hill did not disappoint, with a mix of red, oranges, purples and green colours running through the stones.

    As we had stayed in a hostel instead of a hotel in Salta we upgraded from camping to a hostel. Running from room to room we somehow ended up with the smallest room for the 4 of us younger travellers. The older couples had a room each. The hostel didn't have wifi but did have Satalite TV!

    We hiked for 3km around the hill with James running off to conquer each little peak or stone formation. I had a go and reached pretty high up a knife edge before vertigo hit and I had a hasty retreat. On the way down I spotted a man in a poncho it was Bob- now known as Llama Bob! The town was full of souviners and we were sad that we had run out of argentinian money. Hopefully they will be just as good over the border in Chile and Bolivia.

    Back in the hostel I set about chopping onions and veg again for a stew and we had a lovely meal together polishing off all the opened wine before the border crossing into Chile. We crashed back in the room, changed into pj's and watched Pirates of the Carribean and Hook before falling asleep.

    Tomorrow we will leave Argentina for the last time. An expansive and beautiful country with such varied landscapes and friendly people I've really enjoyed travelling through (maybe minus the expense and the long bus journeys!) I hope the economic problems improve for them soon, and don't think I'd hesitate coming back if I had the chance... maybe Ushuia and a cheeky trip to Antartica when I win the lottery!    Baca lagi

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  • Sara LynRound-the-southPengembara
    1

    D12 Dragoman- A starry sky

    17 April 2017, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Crossing into Chile over the andes, we reached an altitude of 4700 meters. Except for mild shortness of breath, or a bit of lung burning when I tried a sprint thankfully it didn't have any other affects.

    As we ascended up the windy road the landscapes kept changing. From mountainous valleys above the clouds, to salt flats stretching on for miles. Arrid land with cacti and llamas turned into Volcanos and the desert.

    We stopped at the last town in Argentina for lunch supplies next to a playground. Izzy, James, John and Sheila had fun in the kids playground trying the see saw and slides. Starting back on the road we put on a Singing in the shower playlist and sang our hearts out.

    We arrived in San Pedro de Atacama mid afternoon and it was a bustling little town. Our hostel was on the main street and we had a room to ourselves for the first time since Santiago. Heading out the main street was full of little artesan shops, tour operators and little restraunts. After some shopping around we booked onto a stargazing tour for the evening.

    Hungry we had been advised by Lou the tourguide that the minimarket by our hostel made great empanadas. We were all starving so ordered four each. Something shouldnhave twigged when they bought out three crates for us to carry the empanadas back tobthe hostel. In Argentina empanadas are small... not so in the desert. Out came 16 giant pies. We fell about laughing which oerplexed the owner. Paying for our empanadas we had supper, lunch and supper again sorted for the next few days!!

    At nine we were loaded onto a bus and headed out into the desert. As we stepped out an amazing site awaited, the stars were out, more than I'd ever seen. The milky way was a clear streak in the sky and thousands upon thousands of stars twinkled away.

    Our first guide talked to us about how thwle local tribes of the area see the sky. The southern cross is called a Cucharra and is the house which holds the whole universe. Its four starts represent stages of life, the first pregnancy, represented by a snake and water. The second middle age, represented by a Puma strong and wise. The third old age, represented by a Condor and the fourth star being the connection between life and death. The four starts also represented pillars of life being do good, reciprocity, to be a leader and minga. Underneath lay the dark serpent which coils underneath the milky way.

    They called the milky way the river of souls and in November when the milky way touches the mountains they celebrate the day of the dead.

    Our second guide way an Astronomer, he talked us through star formation and death, how far the planets were away and pointed outbthe different consilations, including the llama! We were able to look through telescopes at Jupiter, Saturn, the orion nebula and a cluster of stars. By the end of the night we had seen at least five shooting stars. Arriving back at the hostel after midnight we'd had a night to remember in the desert    Baca lagi

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  • Sara LynRound-the-southPengembara
    1

    Drago D13 - Moon valley

    18 April 2017, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    A lesiurley morning started with breakfast and good coffee at last at Roots Cafe. A reggae themed place with a wall of famous people to puzzle over. Back in the hostel we gorged on wifi to upload photos and update blogs. Life admin done we walked along the main street popping into the souvenir shops to get the best deal. I bought a colourful scarf, bag and purse. I'll have to wait until Bolivia for my Mate cup.

    Mid afternoon we joined a tour to moon valley guided by a lovely local called Miriam. She already wore a scarf securely round her neck and warned of sandstorms on our trip.

     Moon valley is so called because it's so dry that it shares the same conditions as the surface of the moon. It looked more like the surface of Mars with red rock caked in salt crystals. We battled 70km winds and a sandstorm to climb the ridges for the panoramic view. A great sand dune lay on one side, while red rock ridges rose up either side. We had a pit stop at a rock formation called the three Marys by a Belgian priest. I was more impressed by the rock next to it that loked like a dinasour head! Passed the "amphitheatre" and made our way to the caves hewn out by the wind.

    Putting our head torches on we wove our way through rock corridors before entering the cave. Slip and slidding, crouching and climbing we made our way through and came back out into the light to another panoramic view of red rock towers.

    In the same bus was a group from a rival tour group that tested our patience. Thank god they weren't on our tour as I may have left. Talking loudly that they were missing a football game, they were ignoring the amazing landscape around them. The only point in which they became animated was when pulling moonies in moon valley 🙈. It might sound mean but some people are tourists with a capital T.

    Back on the bus we continued in to Coyote rock, this is where we had the stargazing tour the night before. In daylight we could see that we were on a high cliff. As the sun set in the distance the rocks turned into deeper shade of reds. Leaving Chile tomorrow we cross the altiplano to Bolivia.    Baca lagi

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  • Sara LynRound-the-southPengembara

    Dragoman D14- You shall not pass

    19 April 2017, Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Jumping into the bus at 8 we headed to the Chilean border control at the edge of San Pedro de Atacama. It opened at 9 so we were onenl of the first in the queue apart from two cyclists. Our plan was to cross the altiplano into Bolivia which would take us up to an altitude of 5200m and we woukdnpass through lagunas filled with wildlife. How the cyclists thought they could cycle over that pass in a day was beyond us.

    As the shutters opened we were dismayed to hear that the border was closed as the high pass had snow and high winds. We could wait untill 11 for further news, stay in San Pedro until it opened (it was census day so everything was shut!) or make a new plan. Pros at the unexpected Lou and David snapped to plan B. There was another border 4 hours up the road. Off we went.

    After fueling up at a city we continued on a lonely road with not a spec of life in sight. Flanked by volcanos either side, Mamasita battled through high winds and sandstorms that sandblasted the windscreen. Arriving at the Chile border we saw a commercial bus so knew the road was clear to Bolivia. Stamped out we continued to the Bolivian border, to find that even though they are in the middle of nowhere with less than 50 people crossing a day they were shut for a 2 hour lunch!

    Once the Bolivians had been fed and watered we crossed into Bolivia. Stopping at a laguna we spotted flamingoes, comerants, ducks, cranes and herds of llamas. As a pack, 8 of us stalked a lone flamingo for the best shot. The llamas were very stately and were beautifully decorated with colourful ribbons and bells that chimed as they moved. As it got later we came across lone sheppards hearding their flock back towards pens for the night.

    As sunset fell we stopped at a few villages looking for a hostel/hotel so that we wouldn't have to bush camp in high winds. We struck gold in the small mining town of San cristobal which had room in its ecohotel. Due to the constant sun its solar powered shower was bliss! The only open restraunt in town luckily had just enough llama and beef stakes to feed us all. Accompanied by egg, rice and chips it was a very filling meal which sent me straight off to sleep the minute mubhead hit the pillow.

    We later learnt that the other border never opened again so we made the right choice with plan B!    Baca lagi

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  • Sara LynRound-the-southPengembara

    Dragoman D15- Trainspotting

    20 April 2017, Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Suprisingly the small ecohotel gave us breakfast with some yummy coconut yoghurt and passable coffee. Setting off on Mamasita we arrived in Uyuni the gateway to the salt flats. It was market day and the town was full of energy.

    Bolivia is the first time in South America that I've felt we've come across a different culture. The people here are small in stature, I'm taller than any of the men. So as we weaved through the market stalls we had to duck under awnings, and felt like giants among the locals.

    Whilst most men typically wear trainers, jeans a jacket and a baseball cap the majority of women are in traditional clothes. On their head lies a bowler hat slightly to small for their head. Apparently in the 18th century, when they were in fashion, a big shipment arrived in Bolivia for the men, but they turned out to be too small, so the women wore them instead. If lying on top of the head the woman is married, if towards the back of the head she is single. They then wear colourful sholes with a colourful shirt. Then a hooped skirt with long fluffy patterned tights and leather shoes. An amazing dress. I keep trying to take sneaky photos of the but get caught, and get "no photos". I'll keep trying.

    The market had everything and anything you could want. Fruit and veg, electricals, clothes, phones. Endless streams of stalls each with a lady vendor in traditional dress busy knitting her next cardigan, with a baby strapped to their back swaddled in sling.

    Once fed we had a quick journey to the outskirts of town to the train graveyard. Two tracks full of abandoned train engines and carriages stretching for over a mile. Slowly rusting away, most are covered in colourful graffiti. It was like playtime, James, Charlotte, Izzy and I climbed most of the engines looking for the most creative photo to take. Trousers were ripped, hats were lost and boughts of ver0tigo were conquered to pose on top of the iron giants. We spent two hours in total and didn't want to leave.

    Checking in to the hotel we had a few hours before we all (minus Bob and Faye who seem to eat steak and a 3 course meal every night) had food in the hotel. Famed for being the best pizza in town, Minuteman restraunt. We were joined by a Toucan tourguide who was transitioning and was full of stories as she had been a overlanding tourguide for years. One of her groups in Africa had a love triangle where one of the women scorned cut up the others pasport and they were thrown in jail! Finishing the good pizza we headed to bed happy.    Baca lagi

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  • Sara LynRound-the-southPengembara

    Dragoman D16 Salt flats

    21 April 2017, Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Loaded into 4x4 at 10 o clock we started towards the salt flats. The landscspe slowly turned from rocky mud to crystal white salt in all directions. The mountains on the horizon appeared to float above the salt, and other 4x4 could be seen as little flecks zooming across the salt.

    Stopping at an island called Inca's house, it was covered in cacti meters tall that clung to an old coral outcrop. We were served lunch of chicken, rice, pasta and potatoes. They love carbs here! To work off the calories we went exploring up to the top of the island and came back down through caves. At the bottom Faye was struggling. She's been badly affected by altitude sickness and walking even a few steps affects her. The guides advise hospital every day but so far she's declined. She's missed out on a lot.

    Next stop was the middle of nowhere so that we could take perspective photos. Trickier than it looks, but a lot of fun! We continued on to the salt hotel which had hundreds of flags outside from every nationality. I wished I had a spare Welsh flag to tie up. On the edge of the salt flats we then waited for sunset which was a fiery orange.

    Back in Uyuni we set out for street food and ended up in a small place that was full of locals. We had llama steak with rice and chips and a large bottle of coke. It cost us £1.70, the cheap prices have arrived at last! Grabbing some popcorn on the way back were chilling in the hotel foyer when a couple we met in Pucon recognised us and we had a lovely chat. I wonder who else we will meet before Lima!    Baca lagi

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  • Sara LynRound-the-southPengembara

    Drago D17+18 Potosi and parades

    22 April 2017, Bolivia ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    After a lesiurely start we all bundled into Mamasita for a 5 hour journey up to Potosi, one of the highest towns in the world. The road passed through hills, sandunes, riverbeds and hundreds of llamas. In one photo stop the llamas came down from the hills to curiously survey us. Finding that we didn't have food they continued on, passing only meters away. Stopping for lunch we baked in the sun by mamasita. It was so quiet, not a peep. That soon changed as we got into Potosi.

    A large town it clings to the sides of a mountain in a polluted fog. Famous for its dangerous silver mining it is also a Unesco heritage site. David wove Mamasita through the chaotic traffic and steep streets lined with market stalls. Dumping our stuff in the hotel we ventured towards the old town. Here the streets are full of pretty colourful old buildings, with galleys hanging over the streets. We passed the Bolivian mint and some pretty churches before stopping for some good coffee in the square.

    Returning through the indoor markets we passed a row of women in a stupor selling coca leaves from massive white bags. Passing the heaped fruit and veg isles into the meat section where a butcher was chopping up a carcas on the floor with dog fighting over the scraps. Outside in a square they were selling llama heart with potaoes as a snack.

    As night fell the old buildings were lit up and in the central square teenagers were practising their breakdancing moves. We had supper in El Tenedor a lovely restaraunt where Lou, Sheila and John joined the usuall 4 of us for some traditional Bolivian food. I had a dish with fried potatoes, chorizo, meat with chili coveres in a spicy sauce. Delicious, especially with reserva wine!

    Next day was a long drive with a quick panicked pit stop for lunch. Arriving into La Paz though was an amazing experience. As we came to an edge of a valley below La Paz sits in a bowl with redbrick buildings reaching high in every direction. In the background lay massive snowy peaks towering over the landscape. We wove down into the valley down busy steep streets.

    As we took a corner we could see a procession had taken over the street below us. As the smaller cars ahead reversed, due to Mamasita's size we had no choice but to continue on and become part of the parade! In front of us was a marching band and to thensides locals laughed and welcomed us to Bolivia and la Paz. They handed beer up to the truck and we enjoyed a good few minutes partying down the road.

    On a high after getting to the hotel we went out for mexican food but couldn't find any lively venues on a Sunday so reluctantly headed for bed.    Baca lagi

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  • Sara LynRound-the-southPengembara

    Drago D19 La Paz- Prisons and witches

    24 April 2017, Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Wolfing pancakes down for breakfast we headed out into the chaos of La Paz. The streets were already lined with Chollitas (the women in traditional dress) selling their wares. The streets are themed so ine will sell football shirts, the next street willnhave over 20 opticians etc!

    Our 9th walking tour started at Sucre square home to La Paz's famous prison. Built for 500 inmates it now holds 2000 people, including the families of the prisoners. Children can be seen leaving the maingate for school across the square in the morning. Every prisoner must pay for his cell, therefore rich prisoners have spacious cells with plasma screen tvs and even hot tubs. The poor must start a trade within the prison to afford their cell which they could share with up to twelve other prisoners. It used to be possible to tour the prison but these days if you try the prison guards may not let you out without relieving you if your whole holiday budget.

    We walked through different markets including the witches market famous for selling llama fetuses for rituals and love potions to grab your man. In a more modern market we stopped for snacks. We had a yummy fried potato with a meat and egg filling. In the markets Bolivians stick to the same stall currying favor which means the vendor may thrown in freebies like an extra apple when asked.

    After hearing some funny ancedotes about the current Bolivian president (google his quotes) we finished the tour with a shot of orange liqour. Our next stop was the cable car system to get a better view of La Paz. A public transport, the cable cars are becoming La Paz's answer to the underground, connecting the poor towns up on the valley sides to La Paz below. On our line the locals haven't cottened on to the money they could make from the view at the top so we struggled to get the best photo once on the ground due to corrogated iron blocking the panorama.

    Back down in La Paz after a crazy taxi ride we had a brief by Gravity Tours on our bike ride for the next day before we had our goodbye meal in a Lebanese retaraunt. Leaving us in La Paz were the australian pair, John, Sheila and Charlotte. Most will be sorely missed and we've had an amazing time with them the last 3 weeks. It wasn't quite time to say goodbye though as death road was calling!    Baca lagi

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  • Sara LynRound-the-southPengembara
    1

    Drago D20- Death Road

    25 April 2017, Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    If you mention the death road to many what pops into their head is Jeremy Clarkson nearly meeting his maker as he passed another car under a waterfall with just inches before he fell into oblivion. If you google it its called the most dangerous road in the world, and certainly if you drive a car or bus down it there have been deaths as recent as 2015.

    However on a mountain bike with common sense death is very unlikey and those with bad luck come away with a fracture. We set off at 07:30 with our dutch guide of the day Robbie. An ex chef he decided a decade ago to make his hobbie his work, and joined the gravity team in La Paz. Our other guide was Will an experienced mountain biker who came 3rd in the most recent Bolivian race.

    We were geared up and were matched to our bikes according to height. We all had our bikes blessed by Paccamamma (motherearth), mine was Sunday and with a trial ride around a parking lot we set off down 22km of asphalt road first. James shot off down the road, and whilst I idled in the back for the first few km I soon found my confidence and took it at my own speed behind the boys of the group. Its an amazing feeling wizzing down a road, the wind rushing around you. Izzy and I paired up having similar confidence so we could look out for each other.

    Having had our practice it was time for the real deal. Fulled up on sandwiches we started down the gravel death road, so named after the deaths of the POW who built it. One guide was at the front and the other at the back. Every 10km or so we would stop, regroup and get a brief on what to expect on the next section.

    The death road is almost continiously downards gravel. Going from around 4200m down to 1200m altitude its 64km of awsomeness on a bike. There were narrow parts, hairpin corners, waterfalls and river crossings. The views were amazing, but only to be enjoyed at a stop unless you wanted to fly into a 800m ravine. Having never mountain biked before it was a brilliant introduction.

    At the bottom it was high fives all round as not one of us came off our bikes. Gravity was a great company, due to the combination of good instructions and good bikes we passed many of the other slower groups who looked unsteady, uncomfortable and scared on their bikes. After a round of beer we went on to a monkey sancturary for a hot shower and food before taking the new road back to La Paz.

     It must have been an amazing way for Sheila, John and Charlotte to end their trip. With a heavy heart we said goodbye as they had an early flight the next morning. We will be joined by two new people Karen and Ollie as we continue on to Copacobana tomorrow!    Baca lagi

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  • Sara LynRound-the-southPengembara

    Drago D21 The original Copacabana

    26 April 2017, Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Breakfast was an odd site as our group had shrunk to five. Joining us are Karen from outside London, and Ollie who has been travelling with Dragoman since Rio Carnaval.

    Jumping on Mamasita the first hurdle was to find a road out of La Paz that was open and truck friendly. We had many quizzical looks from the locals as the mobile maps sent the truck up a steep hill with a dead end. The angle was above 45 degrees and it felt like an impossible task to get us down. Izzy and I started praying. Thank god David used to drive trucks for the army as he safley got us down. After an hour through market filled streets we made it to El Alto where the road promptly finishes as its still being built. Its guesswork to find a diversion.

    Once we finally escaped the city it was 2 hours untill we had the first glimps of lake Titicaca the worlds largest lake at altitude. Going on for miles it truly looks more like a sea. Putting Dave and Mamasita on a barge where the driver was busy bailing out water (!), we passengers hoped on a small ferry boat and hoped he would make it across. Reunited in one piece we continued on to Copacabana.

    A religious town with a large basilica Copacabana is also very touristy. We decided to climb up the hill to get views of the town below. Within a few steps we were reminded that despite the fact that the lake looks like a sea, we were definetly not at sea level. Taking it slow we continued up passing stations of the cross untill the top. We had a beautiful view down to Copacaban where a brass band had started to play. Bybthebtime we were back down the band had packed up but we wandered around its pretty basilica.

    At 7 we were marsheled over to Bistro Cafe where we met the infamous Fatima. She once helped Dragoman when they had a border problem, and she now runs the monopoly on a few of the dragoman activities. She served up an amazing trout and chocolate mousse meal.

    Her son Leo was our guide for the next day so after a brief on our activities we set off to bed.    Baca lagi

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  • Sara LynRound-the-southPengembara
    1

    Drago D22 The Moon and the Sun

    27 April 2017, Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    By 8 we were on the roof of a little boat sailing across lake Titicaca to the peninsula. We got off below the virgin from lourdes. Bought there from France its a large pilgramage for the faithful of Bolivia and Peru in August. It was a statue hidden in a little crevice. We continued past following a inca trail across the peninsula. Climbing a small hill was tough at the altitude and breaks were needed.

    Leo was an exubrant guide giving talks on history and fauna as we passed different plants. Many of the local plants are good for altitude sickness, like Muna or are halluciogenics like the St Pedro cactus. The local tree has bark that comes off like paper and is currently being replanted everywhere after eucalyptus took over after the British bought it over. Leo is an interesting character, he wore his coat like a cape for the whole day along with a bright pink hat and white eightes style wrap around glasses!

    We continued down to a hidden village called Sanpaya which had beautiful stone buildings set upon the hills. We stopped for lunch on one of the terraces enjoying the sun and only two cholitas passed in that time. After a brief siesta the boat was waiting in a small harbour to take us over to moon island. Before we left brave Izzy took a dip in the lake at a balmy 12 celcius.

    At moon island was a restored temple of the moon which Leo explained had housed virgins that wove for the wealthy in society. Passing market stalls on the way down James bought keyrings representing mother earth Pacchamama and a amulet of a condor for safe travel.

    Arriving at Sun island afterwards we had the shock of hundreds of tourists. The island is currently undergoing a turfwar so the north of the island is closed. Leaving the south crowded. In the north there are two villages one of which is the port and the other the tourist village. For years the tourist village has taken most if the revenue and the port village got angry and have now stopped tourists for two years.

    After 12km hiling we arrived at our hostel at the top of the village. A nice cold beer and a coffee with whiskey courtesy of Olly were had while watching a thunderstorm over the lake an awesome sight.    Baca lagi

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  • Sara LynRound-the-southPengembara

    Drago D23 + 24 The blessing

    29 April 2017, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    After a lovely breakfast we walked down the steep
    steps of the village to the docks and rode on top of the boat back to Copacanana. After a brief coffee with Fatima and saying goodbye to Leo we had a blessing to go to.

    Outside the basilica in Copacanana lies a lane for new cars to be blessed every friday. It was too good an oppertunity to be missed. On the pavement a cholita had a stall and went about beautyfing Mamasita for the blessing. She had flowers, ribbons and even a golden top hat. We couldn't find the priest but mother superior came out to bless the truck. After a prayer she dowsed Mamasita and us in holy water. We drank some wine giving the first sip to Pacchamama and then we set off fire crackers. Mamasita was officially blessed for safe travel.

    We crossed the border after Copacabana into Peru. Our 6th and final country in South America. We continued through tidier villages and ordered farms up into Puno. A stop on to Cusco there wasn't much going on apart from an amazing Peruvian-French fusion resteraunt called the Incadoor. If you're ever passing through its a must!

    Next day after a minor engine hiccup we set off to Cusco stopping at Racchi that's famous for Inca temple and grain storage. There we bumped into another Dragoman tour. It was surreal to see Mamasitas twin Amber.

    Late afternoon we arrived into Cusco city. Driving through the outskirts it was time to say goodbye to Mamasita. She'd carried us for 22 days of fun and was the extra member of the group. At the depo she'll be serviced and put into hibernation for a few months untill her next trip in August. Sleep well Sexy Mamma.

    Quickly changing at the hotel Cusco we went out for a meal with Darren the mechanic in Cusco and had mouthwatering peruvian food with outstanding passion fruit pisco sour. We continued onto a dive bar not far from our hotel and James and I won a game of pool against Ollie and Izzy! A bit tipsy we collpased into bed.    Baca lagi

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  • Sara LynRound-the-southPengembara

    Drago D25 Cusco City of the Incas

    30 April 2017, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    With a hangover I dragged myself out onto the streets of Cusco. Its historical centre is picturesque with colonial buildings surrounding the square. A parade was ongoing celebrating workers days with council workers marching to a military band. Around the square we could see more traditionally and colourfuly dressed people awaiting their turn so we had 30 minutes at the chocolate museum awaiting their parade to start. I bought gorgeous smelling chocolate face cream which has been doing wonders for my skin!

    Back in the square the colorful dancers were out dressed as sheppards with toy llamas hanging from their backs. They danced and jumped around with wrestling masks on their faces. Spotting a KFC across the square I stampped out my hangover and we joined our last walking tour of South America. We learnt that every church in Cusco is built on Inca temples and the remains can be seen in the perfectly crafted walls the Incas were known for. In some of the walls you can still see animal shapes in the rocks such as llamas and serpants. We saw a shop selling traditional instruments like a llama jaw bone and conch shell. Ending in a bar with a pisco sour shot!

    Shopping for a few hours I finally got my alpaca jumper we returned to the hotel to meet Pierro our guide for the next few days as we trek over the andes. Another multiday trek he tried to put our nerves at ease and got us excited for the next few days!    Baca lagi

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  • Sara LynRound-the-southPengembara

    Drago D26 Wild Andes Trek

    1 Mei 2017, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    An early start our first stop was Saquesay Huaman (Pronounced near enough Sexywoman) a temple that sits high abobe Cusco. Pierro explained its likely meaning was sastisfied head, as Cusco was shaped like a Puma, the temple is placed where the head if the Puma would be. The site was used to study asrtonomy. It had stairs that aligned with the summer solstice, across from an alter with a llama shape in the wall. Gigantic stones formed its walls which must have taken hundreds of people to move. Most temples were built around natural stone formations, making them closer to Pacchamama.

    Next stop half an hour outside Cusco was Chinchero where we were first shown into a weaving demonstration. The girls in traditional dress showed us how they treated alpaca and llama wool and then dyed it using natural compunds found around the village. Tying the threads to a frame it could take them 4 months to create a table runner, the pattern they created all from memory. I bought a lovely alpaca wool scarf here and they enjoyed dressing us up for a photo!

    Continuing through the village we came to a temple. The temple itself was replaced by a church but its terraces still remained, and its thought it was used to experiment with plants, a massive Incan labaratory. Each terrace was 5 degrees temperature diffrence from the last. Here on the steps you could see old Inca symbols and swirls etched into rock.

    The church built by the spanish in the 16th century was covered in beautiful art. A virgin Mary was surrounded by mountains, a tribute to Pachamamma. On the way back to the bus we grabbed a local snack choclo con queso, corn on the cob with cheese which was delicious.

    We soon arrived in Zurite our room for the night in a homestay. Set within a quiet white courtyard we set our stuff in the dorms before sittting for lunch. It was a grand affair with three courses each as delicious as the last. The chef they revieled would be coming with us as we camped - amazing!

    Fuelled up we were dropped two hour away to see an area with four natural temples that people still use today from the offerings we saw there. A cave opening was the temple of Pachamama, a rock shaoed like a condor another. A altar perfectly cut from the stone was temple of the moon and a waterfall with a frog shaped rock by the water was the temple of fertility. Our warm up walk back was gentle through andean flat roads arriving back in Zurite in good time. Another amazing meal from the chef including a vegetable soup and pudding made from purple corn and a local cocktail of Macho Te (herbal tea and pisco- we had a looot of Pisco) we headed for bed before the big trek the next day.    Baca lagi

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  • Sara LynRound-the-southPengembara
    1

    Drago D27 Over the top

    2 Mei 2017, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    So anybody that knows me knows that up until I met James I gave any walk that involved a lot of up a big miss. On the W trek I cursed the topographic maps that while showing down ment a lot of up. Today therefore was the biggest walking challange of my life. Continious 1000m up whilst at altitude- lets go!

    We started straight up from 3500m at our homestay into the early morning mist. Walking through fields Pierro our guide coached us each step had to be slow and deliberate or we would puff ourselves out. He promised a break every 20 minutes with big ones every hour. The landscape turned from fields to bushes and trees. Out of the mist a temple of hummingbirds appeared, and one or two of the birds could be spotted in the bushes. The temple was reclaimed from the wild by Dragoman, one of their initatives in the area along with conservation and the jobs the trek creates.

    It truly was a wild andes trek as the path largely disappeared, and we pushed through the undergrowth. As we climbed above the mist an elderly man and a horse appeared- our ambulance and driver in case of bad altitude sickness. Mr Wari was a man of little words, always wearing a cap and doing the whole of the trek in his sandles, he was a legend. More than once I caught his look of exasberation as we took another break. I bet he could do the whole trek in a day!

    The bushes and trees dissappeared at 4000m to be replaced with grass. The ambulance loved this and munched his way to the top. The breathlessness got worse at this point and stops were needed every 10 minutes or so. Slowly we made our way to the pass where at the top I lay down for a good rest. We had done the climb in record Dragoman time! No wonder I was exhausted! My sats at the top were 85%, back at sea level I'd have put myself on Oxygen!

    Pierro grabbed a wooden musical pipe out of his bag along with some Pisco and taught us how to thank Pacchamama for our good weather (a shot). James and Izzy full of extra energy went up to the peak. Olly, Karen and I were happy to remain lying down. Lunch was calling half an hour down the valley and we set off and came accross a mini camp with dining tent and a toilet! We had a 3 course lunch (so good!) and a siesta!

    Walking up after lunch I didn't feel so good, with a mild thumping headache and dizziness. I had a touch of altitude sickness. Pierro advised water, painkillers and mixture he called condor piss - a cologne to open the airways! Camp was at a lower altitude so we marched across andean flat with the camp team rushing ahead of us to set up!

    As we got to the camp my headache was clearing and it was luxary as they brought warm water to our tents for a bush wash before again spoiling us with food. Pierro introduced us to hot chocolate with pisco before we passed out in our tents. Our Doite sleeping bags from Santiago were soo cosy even in sub zero temps. Thank god!    Baca lagi

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