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  • Day14


    August 19, 2021 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    1 km before reaching the car my bike's chain starts to make terror. One link turns out to be defective and cannot bend freely anymore. This is my second Shimano chain this year with exactly the same fault after less than 1000 km. Can be fixed with a spare link but the general conclusion is: crap.

    Let's get a pizza!
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  • Day14

    Where Buna meets Neretva

    August 19, 2021 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Awesome confluence of rivers just south of Mostar! Neretva is locally guided through a lower channel and Buna merges parallel to it from above.

    Into Mostar I follow a cycling trail which was an old railway track once. It is hot. Traces of recent burning everywhere. Some rubbish in the left road ditch, some pungent smell of a dead animal from the right ditch. Welcome to the Balkans in peak summer.Read more


    que lindo

  • Day14


    August 19, 2021 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Outgrooving from my crazy cycling trip in beautiful, medievally atmospherised Stolac. Just 45 km are left to Mostar where my car is parked. I make it a loooong ride with many coffee stops and fresh peaches as snacks from the roadside. Melancholy.Read more

  • Day13

    Dabarsko Polje

    August 18, 2021 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    The next 55 km lead through wonderful plateau valleys in Dabarsko Polje. Little traffic, nice views and a good road. While paying for an ice cream at a petrol station, a drunken guy decides to grab my bike for a short ride. He is so drunk that he cannot even hold it upright. I kick his ass and continue the steep descent to Stolac where I exceed 80 km/h with strong falling winds from the back. Down there I pitch my tent (for the 3rd time this trip) next to the clear river of Bregava. It is nearly ripped apart by the crazy mountain storm at night. Pfffff.Read more

  • Day13

    Illegally legal

    August 18, 2021 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Down, down, down with refreshing breeze and little rain. Perfect final ride! The lake is a nearl empty and rather ugly water reservoir but at its eastern shore I follow a perfectly even gravel path on an old railway track. Illegal border crossing back into Bosnia and Herzegovina, yay! This was my plan. The border people don't care at all and I still have a valid entry stamp in my passport because I didn't get any exit stamp. Apart from that I generally love discussions with customs, border and police officers, so they are free to catch me if they can.Read more

  • Day13


    August 18, 2021 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    For breakfast the same home-made awesomenesses as for dinner. The two boys Kristo (11) and Bogdan (12) are well-entertained by my presence and act as translators to their grandparents Rudmilla and Branko even though English is not the best option for us. I am more successful with Russian than with my Polish. But the previous evening I could not communicate the concept of "sleeping under the free sky" when they insisted to shelter me inside their tiny hut. I pitched the tent as compromise. Now, a morning coffee and lemonade later I continue descending the gravel paths to Vilusi and turn towards Bileća Lake.Read more

  • Day12

    Oh boy, what a day

    August 17, 2021 in Montenegro ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    In Resna north of Cetinje there are just 3 houses at the junction. I find 7 people drinking beer. I ask for coffee, get a tasty Turkish one and don't have to pay. Even though I resist to marry the bar's owner.

    The next 20 km through the mountains lead on a curvy, narrow, well-paved road without any traffic at all! 100 m up, 50 down, 50 m up, 75 down and so on. From here I see many bush fires. Some traces lead to glass and tin rubbish in the roadside ditch even tough it is not much littered. Seems that locals removed most of it. I meet some of them equipped with self-made water-based extinguishers walking into the woods.

    All villages seem to be empty of people. Many abandoned houses. In one village a pack of dogs attacks me. Two or three grab both of my rear bags, pull back and slow me down while the others dance around me who is trying to get away. Dogs run faster then you can accelerate. Apparently nothing happens as I make it into the district of another rivaling dog which does not take interest in me but rather prefers to chase the others away. Good boy. I power-nap on a deserted soccer pitch.

    Before reaching Grahovo I decide to take a shortcut northwards on OpenStreetMap which is not in my paper map. Holy banana, what a steep ride! It gets me up on 1100 m where the track's pavement changes to deep and loose gravel. Many times I have to push the bike up the hills because I just don't get any grip. This region is really wild!!

    Before the top of a hill a gigantic and pretty aggressive Shepard's dog darts at me. A second later a guy appears and calms it down with one command. He invites me for a drink. It's around 7 p.m. already. He has a beautiful home, clean, modern, colourful. Flat TV, washing machine, high-tech stove. Not comparable to anything else up here! Flowers and kittens in the garden. I sit down with my juice. He sits down in front of me. After a short small talk he claps my knees, graps between my legs and tells me that he'd like to suck my weenie while he makes a sucking gesture whith his thumb. Aha? What is going on here? I throw Polish and Russian complaints at him in order to make him understand that I am the wrong person for his appetite. There is this huge dog. And there are rifles on the wall. And his brother with whom he is allegedly living together might return soon. I decide to better quickly leave that place. He insists in showing me the path over the hill and accompanies me with this dog. I say goodbye and push the bike upwards as fast as I can. Puh.

    Two hills further a copy of this very dog awaits me but the now appearing guy does not manage well to control it. "Never look into the dog's eyes" keeps my problem at distance. The map is wrong here and the old guy tells me to take a different path. Hmm, ok. I continue. 20 m up, 30 down, 50 up. Holy shit. Already now my GPS reveals approx. 1900 m of climbed altitude difference for today. My power is gone as dusk approaches.

    Another two hills further I meet two young kids playing with a baby dog not as evil-looking as the previous ones. Their grandma appears, gives me traditional coffee, feeds me well with home-made bread, home-made bacon, home-made air-dried sheep ham - freshly cut from the poor wooly fellow's hind leg - and with home-made cow's cheese. And I get fresh lemonade. Do I need any more reasons to stay over night?
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  • Day12

    Bye boys

    August 17, 2021 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    At 8 we are on the bikes and ready for the crazy breakfast ascent of 660 m to Cetinje via a lovely old and bumpy road full of serpentines. The view back into the river valley is just amazing! Today two helicopters cope with the fires in Lovćen national park. In Cetinje we get freshly squeezed juices and bureks but have to spare out the coffee due to a city-wide power outage. Here I leave the boys behind with a broken heart. They will continue via Lovćen NP and Kotor to Tivat from where they fly back to Germany in three days. I continue my journey northwards back to Mostar via Bileća. And this is when today's fun begins ...Read more

  • Day11

    From smoke to spring

    August 16, 2021 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    We bypass Podgorica on narrow and badly paved tertiary roads and head towards the beautiful river at Rijeka Crnojevića! The descent south of the highway is brutally steep and offers great views which are hazed by all the smoke. A helicopter is repeatedly fetching river water to fight the distant fires. It's a short ride today and the heat keeps us at lunch break for a long time before we continue to the river's spring in a narrow valley. Cold, fresh water, naked asses, superb air, yeeehaaaw!Read more