Rainy season, the juicy season

November - December 2023
In search of dead ends in the nature Read more
  • 41footprints
  • 1countries
  • 46days
  • 172photos
  • 28videos
  • 4.1kkilometers
  • 4.1kkilometers
  • 6sea miles
  • 10kilometers
  • 2kilometers
  • Day 15–16

    No signal

    November 20, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Around Mahenge a yet unknown mountain range opens to me. South of it, the landscape begins to get wilder, is less populated and very scenic. It is also dryer here and I am not going to get problems with muddy tracks.

    For the following 24 hours I will not meet a single other car! Just scarce mopeds and a handful of small trucks. Also, you won't find any touristic infrastructure. Nothing!

    Just like in the eastern Uluguru Mountains a few days ago I again see many rock formations made of black-white quartz sandstone which is "harvested" by the locals for further trade.

    And where there are mountains, there is a quarry. Always. And this particular one allows hiding so well from the road that I would be doomed if I didn't camp here for the night, being surrounded by pure nature sound and without having mobile network signal for the following day.
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  • Day 16

    Sali

    November 21, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    How far will I continue here? Again I will have to return along the same route because all roads are ending (!) south of Mahenge mountains and the only option for a small round trip is blocked by yesterday's fallen tree and, presumably, by a missing bridge.

    On my paper map I read "Old Capuchin Mission" in Sali. Glancing at the topography it looks like an interesting ascent into the mountains. That is what I came for!

    Oh and what a wonderful ride this is! The remote villages are calm with only a few people working on their fields. With my car squeezing through the narrow paths I feel like an intruding alien, maneuvering a spaceship on the surface of a far and distant planet. Somewhat surreal. Do I have the permission to be here at all? How do the locals perceive me?

    Suddenly, where the slope starts to get increasingly steep: traffic signs. Haven't seen any for hours! And the "road" (2 m wide) changes from dirt to tarmac. What? Here? A fantastic scenery follows while I meander up the mountain.

    The road ends in Sali and indeed there is an old Roman mission with a primary and secondary school and many curious kids of all ages who are eager to train their English with me. Super strange to find such a noble establishment up here. Teacher Simon tells me that the compound must have been founded around 1911.

    I enjoy the fresh mountain breeze and walk around, catching locals with my camera. They are shy at first but then proudly pose for me!

    Later I will regret not having stayed here over night because the area would have also been perfect for a day's hike into the nearby pristine forest of which not much is left.
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  • Day 16–17

    Just 400 m are missing

    November 21, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    There are rumors of a rarely used campsite 7 km off the main road, just at the boundary of Udzungwa Mountains National Park. Very alluring! The access route was not mapped (now it is) and I have to ask a farmer on the field if I am supposed to be driving through maize and other crops in order to reach the camp? He confirms, shrugs and starts to lead the way what is just a single track for pedestrians and cyclists. He damn knows what he is doing and makes me aware of many hidden holes which would have swallowed my wheels entirely. Again I prove that communication is possible without a common language. Our paths part where the track gets wider and shows previous vehicle usage.

    After a bumpy drive, the forest closes around me and out of nothing a ranger station appears. The only person around confirms the existence of a camp as well and – being totally uninterested – waves me into the direction behind the buildings and around the hill: "You will see." But what I encounter is grass up to my bonnet and thick bush in front of me. Aha? Not more than 50 metres away from the ranger, thick branches block my passage. He could have told me! I manage to cut them down with my hand saw and continue, just when I notice some Tsetse flies in the car. Huge ones! A few moments later I realise that it must rather be a trillion of them because once I switch on my headlights, all of them accumulate at my windscreen in a thick buzzing layer, blocking my sight. Hard work to get them out again!

    With the daylight fading I am again stopped by a fallen tree and quickly realise that this is meant to be today's final destination. Neither axe nor saw will cut this thick thing in a reasonable amount of time. (Wurstdaniel would have managed though 😉.) According to the GPS coordinates, the official campsite must be just 400 m ahead.

    Birds tell me to wake up. With coffee in hand I observe a mothish butterfly licking my soap. Only at the second glance I notice a reoccurring pattern: Every few seconds, prior to licking, the colourful beauty pees a drop of liquid onto my soap to dilute the surface. So damn fascinating! I can watch for hours. Which nutrients is it looking for?? My soap consists of just natural ingredients, based on sheep's milk with ginger (from Bremer Seifenwerkstatt). Yet another example for the true beauty of nature often being hidden in overlookable details.

    I also hear some hippos from the nearby river and when I collect all my courage to walk the remaining distance to the camp, I can even smell them. The camp turns out to be a shaded area under high canopy with stone table and benches. Not much of a gain compared to my fallen tree spot 😛.
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  • Day 17–18

    Kihansi Spray Toad

    November 22, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    I pass a signboard of the Kihansi Wildlife Research Station. It says "Kihansi Spray Toad Breeding Facility". What the heck? Here, in the middle of nowhere? Out of curiosity I turn back and ask for a visit. Granted.

    Felix the station supervisor and his volunteer Yoel are super welcoming and within minutes I dive deeply into the extinction history of this very "spray toad". It was once endemic to the Kihansi river flowing down in several waterfalls from the Udzungwa escarpment behind us. The species was strongly depended on the water spray in vicinity of the falls. When around 1996 a hydropower plant has been built in the upper areas, the water flow declined from 16 m³ to 2 m³ per second which resulted in much less waterfall spray. The following vegetation change among other factors lead to rapid vanishing of the whole toad population which was specialized on the humid environmental conditions, to be found in this very gorge only.

    Now, here we are at the breeding facility which conducts research on how to re-establish a stable population. The tiny yellowish toads are live-bearing and just give birth to 3-5 youngsters each iteration. The eggs are fertilized inside of the mother’s body and need around 3 months to hatch and to be "raised". Already these parameters make the species very fragile. I learn how at this breeding facility the young toads are fed with Collembola (springtails) and the adults with Drosophila (common fruit fly) and crickets, all being farmed just the next door. There is also another captive population in the USA which is going to be partly transferred here soon.

    It is 4 in the afternoon and Yoel spontaneously offers to hike up the steep path into the thick forest to one of the wetland areas, the former toad habitat. After the environmental impact assessment, the power plant operator TANESCO has been made responsible to maintain the gorge infrastructure for the government being able to conduct research around the resettlement of the toads. They have installed artificial sprinklers to imitate the humid environment 😅. The first toad release experiments here have not been successful and some of the following research questions are still open: Which influence does natural food have in contrast to artificial feeding? Which change in vegetation has the biggest impact? How does the immune system of toads raised in captivity deal with diseases such as chytrid fungi (the former population must have been able to withstand)? Is there an inbreeding depression on the population? A nice playground for students! There is still one rather intact wetland area left upstream which is promising for future release experiments.

    The three of us spend our evening at Kihansi Social Club which hosts all the power plant workers and also fills the gap of being the only place to hang out in this region. Felix got a Master’s degrees in natural resource management in Australia and one in aquaculture in Belgium. For his thesis he went to Vietnam. Yoel graduated with a Bachelor in biotechnology and laboratory science.

    For the night I get a room in the research station’s guest house 😎. With a burning heart I leave the following noon after catching up with some digital homework in this cosy atmosphere.
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  • Day 18–19

    Pineapple overflow

    November 23, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    After a mud bath around Taweta – I was about to surrender if not a local had guided me through the mud – the road leads nicely smooth with sharp corners and steep slopes through bubbly hills. Beautiful landscape, even with a lot of freshly burned woodland, now featuring small farms. The soil looks very fertile indeed! Slowly my altimeter crawls from 300 to 1000 m. No traffic, not even motorcycles. A meditative drive.

    In places the dirt road is freshly graded which is comfortable as long as it stays dry. I get some very little rain which already suffices to turn it into a soapy undertaking. The car drifts constantly from side to side even in first gear and lowest speed. Bad combination with the steep slopes. I decide to continue tomorrow on hopefully drier surface.

    On top of a hill I ask young Octer if I might camp just next to the road at (t)his pineapple farm. Even better, he brings me to a farm house where his parents welcome me warmly! I am allowed to camp here and am invited for dinner.

    The next morning I am shown around by Meshack who runs the farm seasonally. He proudly tells me that these are all organic pineapples, grown without artificial pesticides or fertilizers. For private use they also grow super-tiny and tasty parachichi (avocado), some sugarcane, cassava and lemongrass. In a small valley down the hills he shows me the remaining natural forest where he always likes to go to free his mind. For my further journey I am gifted 3 juicy ananas and in turn I leave all my German chocolate behind 😃. Thanks!
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  • Day 19

    Tea time

    November 24, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Out of a sudden, when reaching 1500 m altitude, the smooth hills around Lupembe start glowing in a familiar fresh green colour. I didn't expect to find tea here 🥳! On a farm I stop and walk into one of the fields. The friendly farmers are hand-plucking the new harvest right now. They send me to the next village to look out for the factory to inquire more information. I want to buy this tea!

    At the Lupembe Tea Factory in Igombola I cause some irritation when driving onto the compound. Nobody is able to deal with my surprising appearance. After hesitations and phone calls, Baraka the young factory manager approaches me. He calls his lady boss for permission and a few minutes later I get a spontaneous tour through the factory which is active in processing the recent harvests. Perfect timing! And what a wonderful smell enters my nose!

    Baraka answers my many questions and is eager to show me around. Like the pineapple farmer he is proudly emphasising that this is all organic tea. I learn about the fermentation process which leads to black tea. It is much faster than expected: after breaking the leaves into tiny pieces the tea needs around 2 hours where it turns from juicy green to brown. Afterwards the fermentation is stopped with hot air/steam. In a final step, unwanted fibres are separated and the dry tea is sorted into different grades and qualities. When I ask where to buy this tea, the answer is "Dar es Salaam". But then after another phone call I receive a huge package of yesterday’s production 😃. It is classified PF1 (tiny curled pieces, "Pekoe Fannings 1") which – after some research – is theoretically not considered to be top quality but is very popular around Eastern Afrika. This one is sold within Tanzania and yields an intense brew. (All the tea factories I saw in Kenya in 2021 produced a similar grade.) If a customer demands other grades, the machines can be reconfigured accordingly and off they go with a new production. Enlightening and interesting!

    The next day, southwest of Njombe, I will encounter different farms, more industrialized, with tea bushes uniformly cut by machines and no people around. Less sexy.
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  • Day 19

    Ass of God 🍑

    November 24, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Somebody having been utterly over-enthusiastic with abbreviating "assemblies" 🤣.

  • Day 20–21

    Preparing for sunset dinner

    November 25, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Even though I had a nice accommodation in Njombe, I have to flee into the mountains. There had accumulated a wedding party next to my cottage which had been just too loud for my gusto. Now, here on 2265 m, I find back to myself.

    The next morning I wake up in ice-cold clouds. At 08:00 the sky breaks open and sun starts to rule my day. I get lazy and fix some things around the car. At 14:00, after 21 h without having met anybody, two guys on a motorbike pass by and return back to see who I am. One of them is totally drunk, behaves like a little baby boy and pisses me off to the extent that I pack things and leave because they don't seem to be wanting to depart voluntarily.
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  • Day 21–22

    Bats

    November 26, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    This mountain range is wonderful! From one valley to the other I climb narrow and steep tracks which aren't mapped anywhere. 1300 m, 2100 m and down on 1500 m again. Then repeat. High up on the ridges you could basically camp everywhere. And from each ridge you can make out the faint course of the next track already.

    My day ends in a nice quarry, shielded from the road. There is a small bird singing cheerfully which drives me crazy because it hides so well that I never manage to spot it. Also, wherever I walk, I see other big dark birds with red wing tips fleeing and hiding quickly. No chance to get a clear view!

    At dusk, I suddenly notice strange sounds above my head. Thousands of huge bats are migrating down from higher altitudes into the valleys. They fly very low over my car where they catch thick bugs in a looping and continue. This spectacle last for more than 20 minutes!
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