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Camino de Santiago

marzo - julio 2018
Una aventura de 152 días de Barb and Alan Leer más
  • 41huellas
  • 3países
  • 152días
  • 299fotos
  • 54videos
  • 852millas
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  • Barb and AlanCamino de Santiago
    1
    1
    Día 127

    Castrojeriz

    6 de julio de 2018, España ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    July 6th

    We walked about 12/13 miles to Castrojeriz today, which takes us over the 200 mile mark. Woohoo! This village was established by Count Muño (or Nuño Nuñez), who defended the fort at the end of the ninth century against the Arabs. Before that it had been a Celtiberian, Roman and Visigoth fortress. We are staying at an albergue that is in a building that is 500 years old. 😳 The locals say that kings and queens would stop here to stay...crazy old history over here!

    We are really enjoying walking in the early morning with the sounds of the birds as the sun rises. Most of our walk today was along dirt roads or paths with just a little road walking. We had a nice breeze again, and it did not get too hot. One of the videos I added has the sounds of the birds.

    When we walked through the Arc de San Anton today, we could hear some wonderful jazz music coming from a bar/cafe area. We stopped in for drinks and met such a nice man running it. I’m talking with him, he gave us his motto on life: “One should only work for life...Never live to work. When you work for life, then you are happy, you have family, you have friends. You must know that is the important thing. Living to work is an unhappy life.” Very wise words spoken by an extremely happy man 🙂

    We also met a man named Everett (from Los Angeles) who has been walking on the Camino since June 1st. His story of how long it took him to hike up and over the Pyrenees was inspiring. Inspiring because he did not give up, and kept on going for 14 hours! So far he has only been able to do about 10 kilometers a day, but he hopes to lengthen that with the new insoles he bought today. You would like Everett. Maybe we will see him again down the path. I sure hope so. I included a picture of Alan with him.

    I have heard people say that the Camino is special, and we agree. A nineteen year old German boy said today that the Camino is how the whole world should be, and it’s so true. The leaders of the world could learn a lot from this.    Leer más

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  • Barb and AlanCamino de Santiago
    21
    Día 128

    Población de Campos

    7 de julio de 2018, España ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    July 7th

    We were going to stop in Fromista today, but decided to walk on to Población de Campos. We are really glad we pushed on because our albergue has an amazing bar with awesome food - I had some Croquetas caseras that were so yummy, and Alan is oohing and awing over his bacon and cheese bocadillo as I write this.🙂😋

    Another plus at this albergue is that each of our beds are in their own little cubicle mini room...so much better than regular bunk beds. I have added a picture so you can see. Even the beds on top have little mini rooms and stairs that go up to them. It costs 10 euros a piece to stay here, and all of the pilgrims were very excited to see that the washing machine was free...no hand washing today 🙂

    We walked 18 miles today, and for much of the walk (except the last 4 miles) I did not feel well. I told Alan I was not going to eat as much tonight as I did last night. Even though last night’s dinner was amazing, I think it was too much for my system and too late in the evening. We only have around 10/11 miles tomorrow, so I have eaten earlier and way less tonight. We will see how tomorrow goes.

    Because I was battling heartburn and my stomach, I didn’t take many pictures/video today. I took a couple after our big climb up from the valley (we had a great view from the top) and I took some of a few sunflowers 🌻. We have been going by fields of them, but they have not bloomed yet (except for the rogue ones we saw today). I would love to come across a whole field of open sunflowers!    Leer más

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  • Barb and AlanCamino de Santiago
    1
    Día 129

    Carrion de los Condes

    8 de julio de 2018, España ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Very slow WiFi - So who knows when this post will go up. I am spoiled with WiFi speeds at home🙂

    July 8th

    We had a very short day miles wise with only 10 or 11 miles to Carrión de Los Condes, but walking on a path with the scenery the same and no hills made it seem further than it was. It seemed like we would never get to the town we could see in the distance.

    Memories from today:
    1. Mirabelle crocheting me a tiny backpack to put my stone in 💕🙂
    2. Early morning coffee stop with ping pong, a melted chocolate bar, a baby lamb, laughter, and Chong serenading us on guitar.
    3. Meeting Patu, who has been walking for 45 days through France and Spain after receiving a bone marrow transplant to cure his cancer. Amazing man!
    4. Eating dinner and having a beer under cover during a thunderstorm
    5. Viewing the ancient church artifacts in the church Iglesia de Santiago    Leer más

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  • Barb and AlanCamino de Santiago
    2
    Día 130

    Terradillos

    9 de julio de 2018, España ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    July 9th

    We are halfway there! Exciting, but daunting knowing we have another 250 miles to go. 😳 Today was one of those days where we had some mental struggles. The walking forever on a straight road/path was hard. The end seemed to never be in sight.

    But...we loved the food truck that showed up just when we needed it, AND our Italian friends reappeared after not seeing them since the 3rd day of our walk. They don’t speak English and we don’t speak Italian, but somehow we communicate 🙂. One of the guys calls Alan “Washington” and I am Barbara. No one understands “Barb” as my name, but when I say ”Barbara”, they nod, smile, and understand.🙂 We spent our first night with them and our 3rd, and when you spend time with people on this journey, they become special to you...quickly. So nice to see them again!

    We are staying in Terradillos tonight and happy to be in a room with just two beds for us...felt like we won the lottery when the woman showed us where we would be. 😀 I’m hoping for more sleep tonight, because I was in a room full of snorers last night.

    Another good moment was walking into Ledigos ( a couple miles before our destination) and being able to order a pizza that was SO good. It was such a simple pleasure when we were tired and hungry.

    Because today was one of those days where I just wanted to get to our albergue, I didn’t really take many pictures at all...a few video snippets, but not much else, and Alan didn’t take a single one...sorry ☺️    Leer más

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  • Barb and AlanCamino de Santiago
    2
    Día 130

    Bercianos

    9 de julio de 2018, España ⋅ 🌙 72 °F

    July 10th

    We had a great day today! We went just over 13 miles, so a few miles shorter than yesterday. The early morning, walking as the sun rises, is amazing to me! Amazing because it’s incredibly beautiful and peaceful, but also amazing because in my normal life I hate mornings - haha! I’m usually a night owl and would rather sleep in a bit. Now, I still may grumble a bit as Alan nudges me awake, but I love it once I’m out walking. 🙂

    The good:
    1. sunrise over the wheat fields
    2. Fields of sunflowers all turned towards the rising sun (I so wish we could see them all in bloom).
    3. Seeing the Moratinos bodegas (caves built into a hill) that were used for wine making and food storage. Some of these were at least 500 years old! Tree was a sign telling us that “No, these are not Hobbit houses” 😂
    4. The best almond pastries from a cafe in Sahagún, and the WiFi at the same cafe so I could upload some posts
    5. Getting to our albergue by noon and enjoying sangria outside
    6. Seeing Andy walk up to the albergue after we worried his Achilles wouldn’t let him continue on today
    7. Shade on the last part of our walk was heavenly
    8. having our own bathroom !!!!!! 😀👍🏻🚽
    9. Talking to Mom and seeing Adrianne’s Snaps 💕

    The Not So Good:
    1. Mosquito bites 😖 I have quite a few from the other day’s early morning walking near some wet areas, and they really itch. Of course Alan has ZERO -not fair!
    2. Flies...I am trying to get used to the flies, but they are annoying. 🤨 Everyone is so used to them here, but, when Alan told me to just ignore them, I told him they tickle when they land on me 😬 drives me nuts!

    We head to Mansilla de las Mulas tomorrow (about 16 miles), and then on to Leon on Thursday where we will spend two nights (taking a rest day)...woohoo!    Leer más

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  • Barb and AlanCamino de Santiago
    2
    Día 132

    Mansilla de las Mulas

    11 de julio de 2018, España ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Today started out with a beautiful sunrise, a perfect cafe breakfast stop, where I had the best French toast and Alan was gushing over his eggs with bacon. Then...as we kept walking we saw the sky get scary dark ahead. The forecast had called for afternoon thunderstorms, so we figured we would be done with our 16 miles by then. The storm had other plans. It literally “stormed” in on us quickly. Flashes of lightning were ahead and the thunder was rumbling. We threw on our pack covers, rain jackets, and rain skirt things just before the skies opened up.

    It’s not a good feeling to be walking along a flat plain (almost the tallest thing around) with trekking poles with lightning striking around you. We were being pelted with rain and hail then saw a small covered area where other hikers had taken shelter. I literally ran there with Alan right behind. We were so thankful to be under something. We found out later that our friends had to duck down in a ditch trying to get lower. 😳

    A man in a car stopped and offered to take a few of us into town, so Paku (who was soaked and freezing without a coat) and two others did that. A very kind Italian man gave a warm fleece to a soaking wet and shivering Korean young man. The rest of us waited out the worst, and then we hiked 3 miles SO fast to get to the next town. We stopped in a cafe and had some coffee and hot chocolate to warm up then speed walked another 3 1/2 miles into Mansilla de las Mulas to our albergue.

    Our clothes are washed and dried, our shoes are stuffed with newspaper, and now it’s time to eat. Tomorrow - Leon 🙂    Leer más

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  • Barb and AlanCamino de Santiago
    Día 134

    Leon #1

    13 de julio de 2018, España ⋅ 🌙 61 °F

    When I was putting together my video footage from today, I chose the song “Glorious” by MaMuse because that seemed to fit today. All of us had reservations in León, so we were able to take our time and enjoy a few more leisurely cafe stops along the way. Then we ended up hiking in and through a huge sheep 🐑 herd, we found some Camino friends we hadn’t seen since earlier, and ended our day with 16 of us enjoying a great dinner in León this evening.

    At the end of dinner, we had to say goodbye to Chamu, who is returning home to his family. He originally planned on walking for about eight days, but has now been walking for over 20. Once he met Paku, and heard his story of surviving cancer, they became fast friends, and were nicknamed the “Lavender Brothers” for always picking some wild lavender and attaching it to their backpacks 🎒. Chamu gave us all a copy of this quote by Eduardo Galeano as a parting gift:

    “Each person shines with his or her own light. No two flames are alike. There are big flames and little flames, flames of every color. Some people’s flames are so still they don’t even flicker in the wind, while others have wild flames that fill the air with sparks. Some foolish flames neither burn nor shed light, but others blaze with life so fiercely that you can’t look at them without blinking, and if you approach, you shine in the fire.”

    He told us that we were all flames of light and he has pieces of us that will always be with him, and we will have pieces of him, so only happy tears were allowed. 🙂💕

    Tomorrow, we get to explore León and tour the cathedral, AND word on the street from Emily and Andy is there is a Taste of America store that has Jif Peanut Butter. Alan is pretty pumped at the possibility. 😂😂    Leer más

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  • Barb and AlanCamino de Santiago
    241
    Día 134

    Leon #2

    13 de julio de 2018, España ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    We toured the Cathedral de Santa Maria de Regla this morning and once again we were in awe. The stained glass!!!!! Wow 😮Almost all of the cathedral was built between 1205 - 1301, the north tower and cloister were built in 14th-century, and the south tower completed in 1472...majestic!

    We also indulged in fresh churros dipped in chocolate, bought me a new shirt to replace the one I forgot in the last town, and then found some Jif peanut butter for Alan at a store called Taste of America, but it was ridiculously expensive. So, Alan left it on the shelf and settled for a Baby Ruth bar. I also grabbed my first Diet Pepsi of this trip and some Bazooka bubble gum 😀.

    Now, our rest day is done, our packs are ready to go, and tomorrow we continue on. We only have two more weeks of walking to go, and we are excited to start seeing some different types of landscapes.    Leer más

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  • Barb and AlanCamino de Santiago
    2
    Día 135

    San Martin del Camino

    14 de julio de 2018, España ⋅ 🌙 68 °F

    Our walk from León to San Martin was not the most scenic today because of the long route out of the city. Plus, we were near a lot of traffic noise and even took a break at a dive of a truck stop. 😂😂Needless to say, I did not have many picture opportunities.

    But I heard two things today that made me giggle:

    1. A Scottish woman used the words “Matted with grunge” when she was talking about dirty socks worn by a man she had met.
    2. Andy saying, “That was feral!” After finishing his shot of licor de orujo.

    We have been very fortunate that it hasn’t been crowded at all for us and, up until now, we have not had to book an albergue much at all. But as we plan out our last days we might book ahead more because there are more pilgrims starting and other Caminos are connecting to this one.

    This afternoon I was thinking I wouldn’t have much to show you today, but I am always surprised on this trip. When we stay at an albergue, many times the owners provide a pilgrim meal. We have had good ones, so-so ones, fantastic ones, and “oh my word! That was bad!” ones. But tonight’s had to be the best of them all, not because the food surpassed all the others, but because of one Italian man who sat with us. His wife and daughter were at the other table, but he was placed at ours because their table ran out of chairs. We lucked out! He was quiet at the start, but then shared some Italian wisdom and a drinking game with us that made us all SO happy. I have included a video so you can get an idea of the fun we had. Thank you to the Albergue Santa Ana for the great food, wine, and after dinner liqueur!

    Italian Wisdom:
    1. The brain is overrated.
    2. Less brain equals more happiness 😁    Leer más

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  • Barb and AlanCamino de Santiago
    1
    111
    Día 136

    Astorga

    15 de julio de 2018, España ⋅ 🌧 73 °F

    Today, we crossed a medieval bridge in the town of Hospital de Orbigo. Alan was ecstatic to hear the bridge was the site of a joust tournament in 1434 that lasted a month in which Suero de Quiñones and his best friends challenged any knight who tried to cross the bridge. The place looks like knights could run out at any time...pretty cool!

    We have changed landscapes now, and we actually got to climb up and down some hills that had trees 🌳 🌳on them...woohoo! We also went through a few more towns along our route today. In the 2nd town we went through, an older man was handing out fresh watermelon. He gave me some, but when Alan walked over, he shook his head and made some hand gestures that made it very clear he was only giving it out to women 😂😂

    We also walked by a spot on top of our last hill where a man named David had set up comfortable spots to rest. He had nectarines, bananas, watermelon, oranges all laid out for everyone going by. He also had orange juice, yoghurts, quinoa, bread, and about a zillion other things for people to take/use/eat/drink...only asked for a donation. He made sure he had items different cultures would appreciate - a girl from Australia was so excited to see the bread and the vegemite and the Koreans couldn’t believe he had rice and some sort of Asian sauce. He even had a bowl of hard boiled eggs! SO KIND!!!

    We ended our day of walking in Astorga. I was bummed the Chocolate Museum was closed by the time we got into town, but I toured the magnificent cathedral and admired the outside of the bishop’s palace (designed by Antoni Gaudi) while Alan spent some time resting...maybe the medieval jousting history excitement wore him out (or maybe it’s because we have been doing more than a 1/2 marathon every day. 🙂

    Tonight we visited with Paku who we might not see again. What a lovely man to have been around. We are hoping to run into him later down the road.

    Tomorrow, we head to Foncebadón...26 kilometers. I have my first blister now, so we will see how it feels after tomorrow 😳😬. We have walked 334 miles so far...only 166 to go!    Leer más

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