Spain
A Coruña

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    • Day 13

      San Juan de Ortega to Burgos

      May 13 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      Burgos is a large and thriving city and at the core of the city is a a medieval town and the walls enclose vibrant tourism, one of the largest cathedrals in Spain. Burgos is also well known for a museum of human evolution. About 1/3 of the way to Burgos we passed the nearby town of Atapuerca which has been a town since 750 when it was a small Christian settlement and in the 13th century became an important military town and also a town to serve pilgrims. It is in Atapuerca where archeological remains of the Atapuercan civilization from 1.2 million years ago have been discovered and excavated.

      Today's 27 km walk was still a bit cool, and I kept my long sleeves and raincoat and long pants on most of the day. But it was not raining, but a bit windy. But all in a good day for walking. The first 13 km of the walk were largely flat except for a small climb and descent (my definition of small is changing). The later 13 km were largely entering the greater limits of Burgos, so passing along an airport, freeways, industrial areas. About 10 km before reaching the centre of the city and the medieval walls where my hotel is located, we walked mostly along a roadway through residential areas and the closer we got to the inner medieval city, the more robust the tourism with shopping, cafes, etc.

      Today, I walked mostly with Theresa ( also travelling alone and from Toronto). We joined here and there, Bernadette, Victoria and Deanna ( Australian), and then came into the city proper with Sherri and Robert (Summerland, BC)...It was nice to have company the majority of today's walk since navigating the city was a bit more challenging.

      The number of pilgrims has noticeably decreased and this may be due to the fact that this segment of the Camino (particularly the last 3 days), there has been more or less roadways, busy intersections to cross, not consistently beautiful and quiet country side. Although, even in some of the earlier days when the Camino is in the countryside, very often the nearby motorway can be seen or heard. It is not a surprise that the trek for the pilgrims of the 13th century passed through what are now important towns and cities, and, of course, a network of roads to connect them all.

      I am happy to report that my feet are holding up ok..the duct tape seems to be working and my feet are at least not getting worse, and walking today at a good pace and not limping along is refreshing. I have a full day in Burgos tomorrow to do some sightseeing. In fact, I am in this hotel for 3 nights in a row! Tonight because I walked here, tomorrow is a rest day, and the third night, I will have walked away from Burgos but will be taxied back to this city to stay the night...the accommodation problem is ongoing. I am very thankful to have a bed every night without worry.

      The Camino for me is beginning to take on a life of its own for me now. I unpack, and pack again with ease at each hotel. I have a method of organizing my back pack. I am comfortable finding what I need in these towns and cities. I am comfortable each morning waking up knowing that I have 25km or so ahead of me, but it no longer feels unmanageable. I am just shy of two weeks on the trail and have covered approximately 230 km. When before this seemed epic, now it feels comfortable and normal. Of course, meeting new friends, having conversations and adapting to the way of life on the Camino, sharing our aches and pains and later a glass or two or three of wine, the Camino is beginning to feel like the Camino I am came here for.

      But I still do miss you all! Love seeing pictures from home. Don't forget to send them.
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      Traveler  I love this Brenda.. you document everything so beautifully and manage to express exactly how u feel… well done you!! ❤️

      Traveler  Thank you Diana. So I document it all so carefully in case in the future someone says, "hey! Let's do the Camino!"...lol

      Traveler  Haha… u r already thinking about doing it again!! I love this xo

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    • Day 21

      A Coruna

      August 1, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      We travel south to A Coruna and stay at the marina. Ruby wakes up early and snaps a beautiful sunrise.We have a lovely morning in the Aquarium followed by a walk up to and around Hercules - the oldest existing lighthouse in the world (20B.C.)
      We have a gorgeous afternoon meal in the old part of the city. Spain requires a Covid passport for indoor dining which we haven’t got yet. The owner is kind enough to let us eat inside after I use Spanish, english and my charades skills to show we were both doubley vaccinated.
      When we wander after dinner we see the usual gorgeous buildings and green areas as well as a big market down by the water. We follow the sound of music to find a band sound-checking for a concert and Ruby and Colm become instant AC/DC fans.
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      Traveler  Beautiful photo Ruby x

      8/24/21Reply

      Traveler  Lighthouse is extraordinary!

      9/20/21Reply
       
    • Day 14

      Burgos Rest Day

      May 14 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Last night, I took a short excursion and as I walked up the stone medieval street and crested the rise, the most amazing cathedral rose out of the ground (see pictures). Burgos is famous for the Cathedral de Santa Maria, and the moment I saw this cathedral literally rise from the ground below, I already knew that I would be visiting the next day.

      But not before, I take care of some of the business of the Camino...It is freezing here...12 degrees but a cool wind, and unfortunately, I sent back to Canada some of my warmer things when I thought that Spain was having a heat wave. Also important to note that in Spain not only do they siesta the better part of most afternoons, fail to open for all holidays, celebrations or otherwise, they also do not work on Sunday. So my rest day is Sunday and I am desperate for something warmer. The ONLY store open on these tourist busy cathedral streets, except for cafes, is a dollar store, so 28 euros later, I have a toque, some gloves and a man's sweater ( size small). I also stop at a convenience store that stocks mostly wine, but I found more tinned tuna as emergency rations. And finally the fourth ATM is working...so now I have money! Now I am ready for my cathedral tour.

      The cathedral truly is amazing...I have visited many churches on holidays in Europe, and often feel that one church is much like another...this Cathedral is like nothing I have ever seen. First, it is literally sunk in the ground. So it rises out of the streets...I believe it was built on the foundations of an ancient castle, and the cathedral also has two levels to match the two street levels that it hovers over and around. It rises like a cloud out of the streets.

      The cathedral is a testament to Mary and was built over 22 years beginning in 1121. Though the cathedral has undergone additions and renovations over the years, the essential structure remains the same which is why the architecture of the building is largely gothic. Gothic architecture includes pointed arches, stained-glass windows, flying buttresses, ribbed vaults, and spires. These are all evident in this cathedral in each of the 21 chapels. The cathedral is essentially a collection of chapels built over time to honour various political and religious leaders of the time who created these monuments either as a testament to their living and dying, or a testament to their strong faith and convictions. But the truly remarkable feature of the cathedral is the lasting art work where now the Cathedral is as much a church as it is a museum. The sculptures, the stone architecture, the stained glass windows, and the paintings that adorn the walls are a testament to the art that has survived the passage of time, and recounts the ages.

      So after my Cathedral tour today, I went off looking for lunch ( albeit the late Spanish lunch) and if it wasn't my friend, Diana, also looking for a late lunch...so 4 glasses of wine later and some pinchos...we arranged to meet for dinner two hours later! Which of course has given me a bit of time to catchup on my FindPenguin footprint because tomorrow is a walking day.
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      Traveler  Isn’t it amazing how these countries have building from thousands of years ago? The pictures are amazing!

       
    • Day 52

      59ème étape ~ La Coruña

      September 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Arrêt dans cette merveilleuse ville d’où est originaire la grand maman maternelle de Chiara. Visite de l’aquarium, découverte de la tour d’Hercule qui est encore utilisé comme phare, puis moment avec la famille de Chiara.
      Retour aux sources ♥️
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    • Day 150

      Café, Kuchen und ein alter Leuchtturm

      November 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Die Stadt A Coruna ist größer als wir ursprünglich gedacht hatten. In der Altstadt sind wir durch die kleinen Gassen spaziert und haben ein kleinen Café mit unglaublich leckeren Kuchen gefunden. Dazu gab es für Marius einen Cappuccino und für mich eine dickflüssige Schokolade... So lecker...
      Natürlich haben wir auch ein paar Fotos am ältesten aktiven Leuchtturms der Welt gemacht. Übernachtet haben wir direkt am Meer und konnten beim Abendessen den Sonnenuntergang genießen.
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      Traveler  Auch eine sehr schöne Gegend, scheint eine Reise wert zu sein. vor allem in dieser Zeit sind dort angenehme Temperaturen. Es ist dort sicherlich jetzt recht entspannt, oder türmen sich dort die Womos an allen Ecken? Viel Spaß euch beiden. 😏👍

      11/11/22Reply

      Traveler  Es ist super angenehm... Derzeit trifft man nur noch die Womos, die irgendwo im Süden überwintern wollen.

      11/11/22Reply

      Traveler  Oh, dass ist schön, dann ist es ja sooo traumhaft wie ihr es auf den Bildern rüberkommen lasst!

      11/11/22Reply
       
    • Day 14

      A Coruna

      June 8, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Eigentlich wollten wir ans Meer. Da das Wetter nicht so war, sind wir erst mal in A Coruna geblieben. Die Stadt hat uns erst auf den zweiten Blick gefallen, war dann aber sehr angenehm und der Pulpo ein GedichtRead more

      Traveler  Diese gigantischen Glasfronten….schade, dass ihr keine Sonne habt….dann sind sie ein Gedicht!

      6/10/22Reply

      Traveler  Ja, die Sonne hat etwas gefehlt. Aber immerhin kein Regen, da sind wir schon zufrieden.

      6/10/22Reply
       
    • Day 15

      Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

      May 15 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      The walk out of Burgos was lovely...it remained in the old town, across the river, past the original Parliament building, past the university into the countryside where nearly all of today's walk was in the countryside leading to the next major section of the Camino, the meseta. The meseta is a plateau where for the next 170 km or so will stretch until approximately Leon.

      I am now able to confidently say that 21.5 km is a short walk. The cooler weather also makes it so that walking is very comfortable. Add to that the relatively flat terrain, only a small climb for a few kilometres changed the rhythm of the day. My feet are bandaged up neatly every morning, but now I am finally keeping to a pace and rhythm that is perfect for me and my body.

      We started out as a larger group today, and largely stayed that way most of the way with intermittent staggering here and there, until the next cafe! Today, I walked all of my way with Savante, from Sweden, and then we parted ways as he continued onto the next town for a 30 km day.

      Hornillos del Camino is not any more remarkable than many of the towns along the way, except for one thing. If any of you have watched the film, The Way, the film features a local, and this local man is actually local, and our little group had the privilege of watching him at work in his community where he moves pilgrims from place to place in his "taxi". Our taxi driver said that he is famous, but totally cuckoo. I am going to try to attach the video that I took today of him and the saga of getting his truck started. I didn't catch a very good picture of the famous local, but the video is classic camino.

      Tonight, I will catch up with Holgar whom I have not walked with since the first day of the Camino, but finally our schedules are in sync. Diana is also still here in Burgos tonight, and her and I discovered last night that at some point before Leon our walking days are sync, so we will be able to walk together, not just eat and have wine!
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      Traveler  It seems like you are making many new deep friendships. Soul healing times…

      Traveler  Glad that you got your feet sorted out,that makes walking soo much easier.Sure enjoy reading about your trip.

       
    • Day 8

      Torre de Hércules

      November 5, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      Der Herkules Turm ist ein römischer Leuchtturm aus dem 2. Jahrhundert, der als das Wahrzeichen der Stadt gilt. Das Stadtwappen von A Coruña (lat. Brigantium) zeigt sieben Muschelschalen – als Hinweis auf den heiligen Jakobus – und den Leuchtturm der Stadt im damaligen Baustil.

      Der Turm mit seinen 55 m Höhe gilt als ältester Leuchtturm, der auch heute noch im Einsatz ist.

      Wir lassen uns mit einem Taxi dorthin fahren. Thomas besteigt ihn, aber auch von der erhöhten Basis des Backstein-Turms hat man einen schönen Blick auf die Stadt la Coruña und das tosende Meer.
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    • Day 8

      La Coruna + Kap Finisterre

      June 5 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Am Herkules Turm, den ältesten noch funktionsfähigen Leuchtturm der Welt hochgekraxelt. - Aussicht: dicker Nebel in alle Richtungen

      Das Aquarium von la Curunia - sehr hübsch für Kinder.

      Dolmen gesucht - gefunden - geschlossen

      Weiter zum Kap Finisterre. Im Angesicht der vielen Pilger bekommen wir fast ein schlechtes Gewissen........
      Und auch hier: Sonne und Wärme im Landesinneren, an der Küste dichter Nebel.
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    • Day 8

      Zu Fuß durch die Altstadt

      November 5, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Wir laufen zur geschichtsträchtigen Plaza de María Pita. María Mayor Fernández de Cámara y Pita, bekannt als María Pita, wird als eine Heldin bei der Verteidigung von La Coruña, Nordspanien, gegen den Angriff der englischen Armada auf das spanische Festland im Jahre 1589 verehrt.

      Dort steht das Rathaus, und heute am Samstag geben sich die Brautpaare die Klinke in die Hand. Auch eine Gruppe Dudelsack Spielende und Folklore Tanzende sorgt für Stimmung auf dem Platz.
      Weiter laufen wir zur alten Markthalle. Dort werden die alltäglichen Lebensmittel, vor allem natürlich Fisch und Meeresfrüchte verkauft. La Coruñas Hauptindustrie ist nach wie vor der Fischfang.

      Wir gelangen dann zur Plaza de España. Von einem etwas erhöhten Niveau hat man einen schönen Blick auf diese ganz speziellen Häuser. Offensichtlich ist das ein beliebtes Motiv bei einheimischen Aquarell Künstlern. Ich blicke ihnen gerne mal über die Schultern.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    A Coruña, A Coruna, La Corogne

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