Spain
Barrios de Colina

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    • Day 11

      A good plan

      August 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

      The plan worked very well: I arrived at Villafranca by 8am, and stopped for brekky. The temperature was 14°C there and I hadn't realised how cold my hands were. My fingers were stiff and I couldn't undo the clips of my backpack!
      There was only one place to eat there, the restaurant at the hotel/albergue. I had a Colacao (hot chocolate) and a croissant, served by Salam, from Algeria, who was very excited to meet an Argentinian for the first time.
      The trail from there to my destination of the day was nice, with more shade than direct sun, and I made it to San Juan de Ortega before midday, with 26°C.
      I checked in at albergue El Descanso de San Juan, had a light lunch, shower and siesta 👌
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    • Day 15

      Belorado to San Juan de Ortega

      August 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

      Left Belorado late this morning, went to the farmacia for an inflammatory. They opened at 9 AM so I was on the trail by myself for the most part. It was very nice considering. Approximately 24 Km, mostly up hill. Being all alone an unafraid was peaceful. The reward was at the out door restaurant so many people from all over the world showed appreciation for each other. Made the day special.Read more

    • Day 11

      Another sunrise

      August 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

      I was the first one to get up at albergue Cuatro Cantones in Belorado, and I started walking in the dark, at 5am, with 15°C. It felt a bit cool, and great for walking.
      Today I had a route of 27k ahead, the first half being a slightly uphill walk to Villafranca Montes de Oca, and the second half a steep climb (one of the top 10 climbs of the whole Camino, I've been told) over La Pedraja, and finally a descent into San Juan de Ortega.
      I had to start that early, because the forecast for today was 35°C.
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    • Day 23

      San Juan to Burgos

      September 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

      A later post tonight as we have hit the city lights of Burgos. What a contrast to San Juan where the only noises were roosters and cow bells!
      I must say though that last night we had the best meal. Black pudding, pork loin chops and salad. All for about 35 per person that included 2 bottles of red wine. Burgos region is famous for black pudding made from pigs blood! Best we don't know.
      So we had a very early night and then up early and on the road by 645 am with head torches on. We walked about 5 km and came to a cafe in Ages, tiny village and had our coffee and croissant fix.
      On we walked with the sun rising and saw our first lot of sheep in ages. Even heard bird song which has been a rare sound.
      Climbed a pretty steep hill and walked through forests but the the fun part of the walk was over! After another stop at a roadsidecafe we walked and walked along roads and crossed major highways until we walked into the industrial area of Burgos.
      We tried to find the alternative route via a river but alas it was never found!
      It was hot and I guess we were getting hangry but on we trudged. I guess it was a good reminder to us that Spain is not just about cute little villages and pilgrim walks!
      We did pass on our way the site of some of the first human relics found at Atapuerca and is now a world heritage site.
      Finally we arrived at our destination but the hostel didn't open until 4 pm so what were 4 tired pilgrims to do but have a long Spanish lunch under the shade of plane trees.
      Burgos is such a contrast to the quiet villages we have been staying at and tonight it was warm and so many out and about. We witnessed the Burgos rugby club being cheered on in the square for winning the Spanish rugby championship and apparently 2 kiwis are in the team
      The women here seem very stylie and our rather crumpled pilgrim clothes seemed a bit out of place.
      Rest day tomorrow and our legs need it so we will do relaxing sight seeing and laundry! 26 km walked today
      Buenos noches
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    • Day 20

      Belorado to San Juan de Ortega

      May 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      Today was tough in many ways. I had an early start as there was no accommodation available to be booked in San Juan de Ortega so I had to hope I’d get to the municipal albergue before it was full.

      On my way to Espinosa del Camino I passed Sandra from Germany who we had met in Orisson. We chatted a bit and made plans to have dinner together in Burgos on Thursday night with the Australian Sandra. While I was having breakfast in Espinosa del Camino she arrived and in that short space of time she had news from home that her father had died and she was going home. She gave me her rock to carry on to the Cruz de Ferro. I continued on and it was hard to shake the sadness. But I was so pleased that I had bumped into her at just that time. The remainder of the walk was 12 kms without any towns and the last half without shade again. It is getting very hot in the afternoons now. There is rain forecast for the end of the week but still high temperatures.

      The good news is that I arrived at the albergue before it filled and even got a bottom bunk. It’s a large room with 11 bunk beds so might be a noisy night with 22 of us. But it’s clean and friendly and the shower was hot. I had a (wine free) communal pilgrim dinner and sat with a young woman who came from Stroud in Gloucestershire and it was a good end to the day.

      Monasterio de San Juan de Ortega
      24kms
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    • Day 16

      San Juan de Ortega

      June 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

      About 4 hours to do 12 km.... but then I got rewarded by being able to see the festivities which I surely would have missed if I walked the usual speed

      And the senoras are .... yep you guessed it by the flag, right? BARCELONA 😃Read more

    • Day 20

      The Ups & Downs of Getting to Cardenuela

      October 7, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Yesterday, I didn't feel like I earned my nice, hot shower at the end of the day. Today I certainly did!

      Our day began at 8AM with climbing a long uphill & seeing the sun come up. It was so chilly we could see our breath. It ended at 4:30 after a steep & rocky climb in the hot sun into our final destination of Cardenuela. The large, cold beer in the frosted mug was the best beer I've ever tasted! In between we passed through 4 villages, visited 1 church, stopped at 2 cafes, enjoyed a peaceful woodland trail, had a group of high school students pass us, came upon 5 goats, walked along a hot & boring road, and saw a labarynth. There was much more, but I'm too tired to recall many more details!Read more

    • Day 8

      Forest

      July 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      What threatened to be a hot and dusty day was made much more bearable by long stretches of forest that broke up the red clay paths leading into the Atapuerca Valley. Here archeologists discovered the remains of some of the earliest Europeans, and Santiago Ramón y Cajal discovered the microstructures of the brain.

      Arriving in Agés it becomes clear that no one here takes credit card and that the next ATM is a 100€ cab ride away in Burgos. So it’ll be a quiet and early night for me.
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    • Day 25

      30 km Français

      May 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      De la planification prévue nous avons eu l'opportunité de rencontrer ce matin nos partenaires français à un arrêt sur le chemin, nous nous sommes remémoré les faits saillants de notre souper bien arrosé de la veille.

      Bien en selle nous voulions prolonger un parcours trop court.
      Ensemble nous avons décidé de poursuivre sur une journée de 30 km après avoir réussi à trouver un hébergement à la même place que
      nos cousins français.
      Après en avoir appris sur les vignes, les vendanges, levte tennis et le golf nos échanges furent amusants et guidés par l'humour.
      Paysage dagriculturevet fe forêt nous habitons ce soir hors chemin de 10 km un type bed and breakfast ou on nous a offert de nous reconduire.
      Donc demain nous atteidrons Burgos après 3 heures 30 de marche.

      Nous avons grimper jusqu'à 1152m d'altitude aujourd'hui
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    • Day 15

      Day 15: Agés

      September 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

      We had a great 28 1/2 kilometer hike today, despite the drizzly gray weather that had us donning and stowing our ponchos more than once.

      We moved faster and with more ease in the morning and in the afternoon than we’ve done before, proof that we are getting a little bit stronger every day.

      My bottom bunk luck ran out today, however. We thought we were getting in to the Albergue Municipal Taberna de Agés on the early side, but all of the lower bunks in the dormitory had been taken.

      Unlike other places we’ve stayed, this albergue doesn’t assign bunks, so we didn’t have our usual “stack,” where I take the lower bunk bed and Allan takes the top. At least the top bunk has a railing, which isn’t always the case.

      Tomorrow we’ll walk 23 kilometers to Burgos, where we’ll take our first “rest day.”
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    Barrios de Colina

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