Cacabelos

Left lovely Cacabelos at 7 after a fairly bad nights sleep. Fell asleep quite quickly listening to the Newsagents podcast ( vaguely trying to keep up with the election from here) but then awake on and off. Someone left the albergue at about 5 which definitely woke me up and didn’t sleep much after that.
It’s was a beautiful morning of sun and clouds and felt as if it might be quite warm. Undulating path but mainly along an alarmingly busy road to Villafranca del Bierzo. I really hate walking along roads - particularly when it’s right on the road with no separation at all from the traffic! This was bad and made me more determined to take the alternative route from Villafranca to Trabadelo rather than continuing along the road.
Finally got to Villafranca just before 9 but then couldn’t find anywhere open for breakfast. Think I must have take a a slightly odd route into the town as didn’t find anyone else which is unusual. Finally rang cress to find out where she was and we met in the Plaza Mayor at the Cafe Sevilla where they served huge portions of tortilla and cake and churros (I didn’t have all these but did eat a lot!).
Then took the decision to go it alone up the high alternative route. I love walking and walking alone is fine but this is very remote and felt quite scary. It’s super steep to start with and I had to keep stopping. Worried about whether anyone would find me if anything happened!! But it gradually evens out a bit and although still mainly up for the whole 8k to Pradela it does become an easier walk. I trod the steep and rugged pathway rejoicingly in the end!!
Arrived in Pradela at about 11.30 and have now had coffee, sparkling water and a ’delicious goats cheese salad while enjoying the company of the cats and listening to a cuckoo.
It feels very high up here, very lonely and I feel quite brave!!
It began to rain a little while I was having lunch so ordered a cup of té rojo and a piece of chestnut cake and waited for it to stop. Two little swallows were sitting on the telegraph wire just across from the albergue terrace where I was sitting - it looked as if they were also waiting for it to stop.
Finally set off down the hill to Trabadelo in rain gear but didn’t need it for long as the last bit of drizzle stopped. Just before reaching Trabadelo there were some cherry trees with ripe fruit and low enough branches for me to reach them. Finally got my fix of cherries straight from the tree which I seem to have had a lot more of last year. Sure they have restorative properties!
Now at Casa Susi. Checked in by Firmin, susi’s partner I think. It’s a lovely dorm with 10 proper beds and a sitting area at the end. The garden is full of vegetables (puts my allotment to shame) but also a good drying line with lots of wind and an area with a swing and a hammock. The river is at the end of the garden but despite looking like it was going fro be warm, it hasn’t really been after all, so a bit too cold to test the river out today.
Anticipating tomorrow as a long long day with a big up in the middle so planning to set off early.
Since writing have been out for a drink at another lovely albergue (de la puente) and then had a delicious, welcoming and very special dinner at Casa Susi- meeting Susi and all the other pilgrims round the dinner table. A very special place - maybe I’ll write a bit more about this tomorrow but it’s late now and I have to get up early.Les mer