Casa del Cordón

Another day of walking in the Mesetas. Silence, solitude and endless fields.
It was almost 8 am when Eva and I left the albergue in Castrojeriz. After a day of rest and with the effect of the medicine starting to work, she was feeling better. We left the village and immediately returned to the long dirt roads.
About 40 minutes later we reached the Alto de Mostelares a viewpoint with an incredible view of the Mesetas. If you look behind you, you can see Castrojeriz and it's castle. Looking ahead, more long dirt roads and endless fields as far as the eye could see. This part of the Camino is truly magical. It's a real opportunity for you to enjoy yourself and be at peace with yourself. The descent from the Alto de Mostelares peak is as beautiful as the ascent.
A few kilometers later we stopped at the albergue de San Nicolás de Puente Fitero, which was a hospital for pilgrims in the Middle Ages. The hospitaleiros, who were all from Italy, invited us in for a cup of hot tea and a snack.
After 19 km among the Mesetas, we arrived at Boadilla del Camino, the last stop before Frómista, our planned destination 6 km further on. Boadilla is a very small village of about 130 inhabitants, but to our surprise there were two albergues, both run by a funny and friendly Spaniard named Eduardo, known to many pilgrims as Eduardo of Boadilla. We stopped at the newest albergue, which looks like a hotel and has a nice snack bar. We took the opportunity to rest and eat. Eduardo asked us if we wanted to stay there and we thanked him, but our plans were to continue on to Frómista. He mentioned the possibility of not finding a place to stay, but we didn't think so.
Shortly after leaving Boadilla del Camino we came to a beautiful canal, that was built in the 18th century to transport the grain grown in the Castille region to the port of Santander, as well as other products from Santander.
An hour and a half later we arrived at the municipal albergue in Frómista. To our surprise, as Eduardo had predicted, there were no beds. We began to talk with other pilgrims who were in the same situation, and we realized that not only the Municipal Albergue was full, but all the others as well. After a few frustrating attempts, we stopped at a bar and talked to the owner, asking for some help or even a tip. He kindly offered us water, and even a beer, and started to make some phone calls. After a while he came over and said, "Unfortunately there are no places here, but I can try to find a place for you in the previous village, Boadilla del Camino. I will call a friend". Can you guess who he called? Yes, Eduardo from Boadilla.
Half an hour later, we are back in Boadilla, where Eduardo has kindly arranged two mattresses for us in the living room of the old albregue.Read more