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    • Dag 48

      The Way of St James

      29 oktober 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

      Arriving in the home of the bones of St. James (or technically the "rediscovered" bones - I mean lucky set of bones to get a whole cathedral dedicated to them and just a few pilgrims visiting over a thousand years or more), I was all worn out. Probably because I slept like ... the previous night or had too many "vino tintos" waiting most of the day for the bus, but sure, we'll put it down to the emotional exhaustion at the end of a pilgrimage.

      After a good night's sleep I had two goals, to see historical Santiago and buy some new non-pilgrim clothes. I headed off with my usual optimism, leaving my now fairly stinky rain jacket at the hotel.

      After walking a block it started to drizzle and by the time I reached the cathedral I owned a new umbrella. I took the obligatory "thank god I'm finished" photo in front of the cathedral as shared with you all earlier and at least I wasn't using the phrase inappropriately.

      I was aiming for the pilgrim's mass but was a little early and wandered the narrow ancient streets full of souvenir shops and the ever present pastries.

      I then headed into mass to be quickly reminded, with somewhere between 500-1000 pilgrims a day still arriving in Santiago and only three masses, that made for a very crowded church. After the first ten minutes I came to the conclusion (especially with not a stained glass window in sight - what were they thinking) that my two prior Catholic masses in this lifetime where probably enough and I should give my squished spot at the back to someone more appreciative or at least more indoctrinated. There was a chance my "unprayerlike" thoughts about the achievements of the Catholic church mightn't be adding much power to the pilgrim's blessings, and those pilgrims at least deserve their blessings. I exited quietly by the side door and noted the queue of people still trying to get in. Ticked off the good deed for the day as well.

      My writings today require a special shout out the the Spanish Halloween decorators club. I think they are winning the contest, probably in rebellion against the Inquisition and all the murdered witches. Galacia itself was previously (before the Romans and Christianity and the Moors and Islam) a Celtic culture. Yesterday was Spanish school's Halloween dress up day which was equally impressive.

      Tomorrow I'm heading off to spend a week on the Coast of Death. More on that in the first episode of the new series - Beyond Nic's Camino.
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    • Dag 47

      My Camino Family

      28 oktober 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

      Given you are now all Camino informed individuals, you may have a few outstanding questions about my Camino which I hope to answer over the coming days.

      Firstly I'd like to talk more about Camino families. Many people are inspired to do a Camino, particularly the Camino Frances, as a way to meet and make new friends. A traditional Camino family is a group of people from several different countries that meet early in the walk and end up travelling all the way to Santiago together. Apart from making new friends a Camino family is a group with whom you can share your journey and reminisce for years to come.

      In reality many types of Camino families form. Most common would be groups of people that fluctuate in size where people drop in and out, catch up, stay behind, go faster or slower but generally bump into each other a lot and possibly organise to walk into Santiago together.

      I met quite a lot of groups, usually three or four people, who met each other on the first night at Orisson hostel with the tradition where everyone introduces themselves. I'd highly recommend staying at Orisson if you're fit enough to do 20km a day and a Camino family is something you're looking for.

      I also met quite a few people who had made a Camino family at the start but that had ended somewhere along the Way as some people finished, some got injured and some went their own way.

      I met a group this week who had formed a Camino family just ten days before and were planning the rest of the walk together.

      I have mentioned the term Camino family a few times in these writings. Given the nature of my journey it wasn't something I expected to find nor something I was looking for. Being a bit of an introvert, I'm not sure I could have coped with the intensity of a traditional one anyway. I might have run away screaming for peace and solitude.

      I did swap contact details with a few people and meet and enjoy a good conversation with many more. Some I saw on and off for a few days or a week. That will always be a memorable and important part of the journey.

      But to my surprise I feel I did make an unexpected Camino family, one I can talk to about my journey and share the highs and the lows. And that Camino family is this group. I never expected to have so many people interested in my escapades, this was originally just going to be an update for a few family and a friend or two.

      You've been full of support and encouragement and unlike the solo travels of my youth, I've hardly felt alone and certainly have plenty of opportunity to share. And sharing does make the world a better place.

      Thanks for coming on this journey with me.
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    • Dag 23

      Mary: Santiago de Compestela

      22 maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Many pilgrims go barreling into the Santiago de Compostela square, or rather, limping really fast into the square. It’s a ‘horse near the barn’ sort of excitement. But some of us are loath to arrive, because that means the journey has ended.

      I am slow to leave my accommodation on the edge of the city, but do finally get going. I’m in the urban landscape now; no trees, but I find some flowers for my hat. I’m following my GPS, figuring it will get me back to the actual Camino at some point. Instead, it takes me to a square with a large church.

      It can’t be Santiago de Compestela. I’ve seen pictures. This church is smaller and less ornate. But I’ve been visiting all of them along the way, so I don’t want to miss this last one. I enter. There, center stage where usually the alter features Jesus on the cross, or maybe some saint is….

      Mary.

      I look around, and every statue in the place is dedicated to her. I think I might be making this up. I wander around a bit. Everything is Mary. I sit in a pew near the front. A woman sits behind me and begins the melodic chanting of a Catholic prayer. And then (I am not making this up.) A white robed priest lights two alter candles. I sit a while, stunned, thinking of that kismet that seems to have followed me all these days. I go outside to check the statuary.there’s a,ways a carved saint or two outside the churches here. There she is, over the door, young, looking down over the square with a beatific smile.

      My pilgrimage is ended, right here, at a church I’ve wandered into. I’ll go to the church of Saint James, get my certificate, take the requisite photos, but this stumbled-upon place is my perfect ending.

      I’m trying to think, to understand, why Mary has been a motif in my travels. I’m not religious. I don’t think she’s trying to bring me to Jesus. But she is the perfect representation of feminine suffering, sorrow, and…ultimately…grace. I’ve been wallowing in the first two. I came seeking the third.

      I get it. Thanks, Lady.

      I finish the walk, arrive at the massive cathedral, and do the photo thing. I line up for my computer generated, Latin credential. I have a proud moment when the volunteer checking my pilgrims passport unravels it and sees all the stamps.

      “Where did you start?”
      “Porto.”
      “When?”
      “May 1.”

      He raises his eyebrows and frowns - the universal sign for ‘I’m impressed.’ He says a word in Spanish I don’t know, but I’m going to assume it means “badass.”

      I visit the statue of James and leave my Kory rock and the red rose from my hat among the shells and photos and offerings of other pilgrims. It hurts a little, and I cry a little; but I did most of my grieving yesterday.

      I check into the Air B&B I will share with my boys when they get here tonight. I wander the square a bit. I take the rooftop tour of the cathedral, which turns out NOT to be a tour in which you look at the roof but one in which you walk across it. It’s beautiful and terrifying and windy as hell.

      Jake and Nick get to our rooms at 6 p.m., and I hug them so hard I could pop their heads off their bodies. We are The Hansens. We are rock solid. We are a team. Don’t mess.

      Later, Nick and I are too late to get a cathedral pew to watch the massive botafumeiro swing down the aisle spewing incense. Bummer.

      Nick goes back to the room while I wander the streets looking for souvenirs I get a bumper sticker for my car and an ornament for my tree. I stop in a silver shop and ask for a small pendant of Mary. The guy behind the counter unrolls 3 feet of felt, filled with medallions. Turns out, there have been tons of apparitions from Mary over the centuries. She visits a lot. The Catholics have approved nearly two dozen apparitions. I ask him if he has Senora de Dolores.

      “No.”

      This makes sense. She’d be a sad gal to wear around your neck with all those daggers to the heart. I wear out the guy’s patience asking about the various Marys. Do I want a Fatima? A Lourdes? I see one about the right size and examine it. There are rays of light shooting from her hands. She is, according to my later research, an apparition from France in 1830. The rays represent the graces Mary gives. On the back of the medal is a predominant M for Mary, among other things.

      Avengers Mary? With grace as her superpower? Sold! The frazzled shop owner closes up behind me.

      In another store, I pick up a patch for my backpack featuring an embroidered Santiago cathedral and the words “No suenos tu vida. Vive Tues suenos.”

      I’m confused. I can’t remember the word suenos . Is it something about sad pain?And the patch is about living with it? That can’t be right. I ask the salesperson.

      “No,” she says, translating, “Do not dream your life. Live your dreams.”

      Oh. Well then.

      I’ll take that one.
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    • Dag 22

      Strings: Picarana to Santiago’s Edge

      21 maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      (Hankies, ya’ll.)

      I wake early today, 5 a.m., compliments of paper thin walls and the boisterous German fellows in the room next door. They are off on their Camino within minutes, leaving me unable to roll back over into slumber. I check my phone for the time: 5:26, and realize I forgot to text Kory goodnight. Again. I’ve been texting him goodnight pretty much without fail every night since he died Aug. 6, 2020. My therapist at one point suggested this was not healthy, but I shut her down right quick.

      Now I’m thinking about the rock, or more about how I’ve forgotten all about the smooth heavy oval with “❤️ Big Show. I miss you, Dolly.” It’s in my hip bag, heavy at a time when heavy things require consideration. And I haven’t thought of it in days.

      Another idea sideswipes me - one I do not want to confront. And then, because I don’t wanna do this and my subconscious doesn’t care,, a half dozen imagined moments swirl all at once. I see myself in my grief reaching for an imagined scruff of Kory’s beard, just there along his jaw where it it sharpest; and I feel of his chest under his shirt, his arms around me during out last hug. These are my go-to grief thoughts.

      I also see an ending. One I’ve been avoiding a long time.

      Now, I’m weeping and chanting, “ok, ok, ok, ok, ok…” over and over again. Thoughts and images keep coming. I imagine my hands on his chest, and then he is standing next to me holding my hand. He has not been next to me since he died, but always in front where I can reach for him, grasp for him.

      I am still chanting, “ok, ok, ok” because for the first time I am considering NOT texting him goodnight, and I know what that means. It means breaking the last strand between us.

      I find my way to the shower. I am sobbing, because I realize this last strand is on me. I made it, and I’ve been dedicated to keeping it tight and strong for nearly three years.

      I pull myself together enough to get croissant and coffee at the restaurant around the corner where I ate last night. The waitress draws a heart in the foam of my cafe con leche. This makes me smile. It’s a brief and necessary respite.

      I pass the ugly Mondo Sofa building and enter a glade of trees. I’m crying again before long, thinking of my grandmothers and past tense verbs. At some point, both my Grandma Rose and Grandma Helen started speaking of my dead grandfathers in the past tense. I ty it: “I loved you.” God. It’s daggers and swords, a physical and sharp pain.

      I take an obligatory, Facebook, flowers-in-my-hat, happy selfie. But it’s a lie. I’m crying almost constantly, using my cooling scarf to blow my nose. I suck up my sniffles as several dozen pilgrims pass by. I shove more flowers in my hat. There are so many, it makes me laugh. This is not a lie. I’ve walked hand-in-hand with joy and sorrow these last three years. They aren’t enemies. They’re fraternal twins.

      It occurs to me that this ribbon of wishing and wanting that I’ve tied so tightly with my grief is holding him here. He would never leave with me still needing him. We all know this about him: he would do anything for me.

      So now I’m weeping profusely. Because I do not want to let him go, but I know I will - because he is my love, because I will always put him first, too. And now that I see it clearly, I have to do this.

      I do not believe in heaven, or that we somehow maintain some form of self after we die. I’ve always argued that the last thing that the cosmic dust left when we die would want is to be bound to its corporeal body. If there is a thing like heaven, it must be the blessed release of all the ego and id that tortured us while we were humans. When I ‘talk’ to my beloved Grandma Rose in trying times, I imagine it’s quarks and leptons of some Grandma Roseish type of cosmic magic come together for a brief time. I know it isn’t her.

      It won’t be Kory either. I’m going to have to cut this last strand and let him fizzle off into bits and pieces of the not-broken, not- suffering whatever he will be next. To set him free, I’ll have to free myself, whether I like it or not.

      I take a real selfie of my profoundly sad, flower clad self. I’m not really looking forward to being free.

      The rest of my day is spent weep-walking the 10 miles (which were supposed to be six) to my accommodation at the edge of Santiago. I have a few moments of joy thinking of the boys, who are flying to meet me tomorrow. But mostly, it’s weeping.

      At about eight miles, I come across a graffiti covered tunnel with a small path leading to it. The light is bright on the other side. The ferns are lit iridescent green and there is a golden glow from the sun. Aren’t I just the biggest sucker for symbolism. A bit further along, two butterflies dance together, swirling up and up.

      Oh, come ON!

      An then, high in the trees the wind pushes against the leaves, making that shushing sound that Kory loved; and he is talking to me…It’s time to go.

      “Fine. But you have to come back and visit me sometimes.”

      More weeping ensues. I come out of the woods into the edge of the suburbs. Jake texts, “The Hansens are in Spain!!!” It’s a reminder that I have other ties to attend, ties to - these two beautiful kids, and lots of other pretty lovely folks. It’s a respite.

      Then, more weeping. It’s been four hours How is there still more weeping?

      Later, I am in the shower at my bed and breakfast, crying, and I call out in my mind for him. And I hear, “It’s only been four hours.” It’s the kind of joke we adored as a couple: a gentle, loving teasing. And whether it’s Kory or my conjuring of him, it is enough. If I can laugh, I’ll be ok.

      My husband died 2 years and 9 months ago, give or take. It’s taken me all that time, these 21 days, and 160-plus miles for to finally really let him go.

      It’s gonna hurt like hell for a while.

      Because I miss him.

      Because I loved him.

      That’s why I set him free.
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    • Dag 10

      Ein verregnetes S.d.C.

      13 maj, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Das Regenradar zeigte heute für diese Gegend fast 100% Regen. Gestern waren wir 10 h in der Stadt unterwegs und hatten uns alle wichtigen Sachen hier angesehen. Wie gut das es ein Navi und Google gibt , so informierten wir uns was es hier in der Nähe noch so gibt und somit ging es raus in die Natur, trotz Regen. Es gibt kein schlechtes Wetter nur unpassende Kleidung. Warum der Norden von Spanien so grün ist? In Galicien z.B. regnet es 165 Tage im Jahr, das sind 2 von 5 Tagen, wo es regnet und einen der beiden Tage war eben heute. Mit dem Auto fuhren wir zum größten Wasserfall in Galicien, gerade mal 25 min von uns entfernt. Das Wetter meinte es ganz gut mit uns und so wanderten wir durch einen herrlichen Laubwald mit Korkeichen und Eukalyptusbäumen. Und wir waren die einzigen Wandersleute. Morgen fahren wir weiter und dann sehen wir endlich die spanische Nordküste. Bis dahin, hasta luego!Läs mer

    • Dag 98

      1. Teil der Rückreise

      25 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

      Seit der Ankunft in Santiago sind wir nun Touristen geworden. Für die zwei Nächte haben wir ein Zimmer in einem Hostel gebucht. Schon schön ein eigenes WC und eine Dusche zu haben. In einem richtigen Bett, nicht in einem Etagenbett zu schlafen. Kein Schnarchkonzert mehr hören zu müssen und niemand der meint er müsse sich bereits um 5 Uhr wanderbereit machen. So schön dass wir uns schon bald wieder nach den Gites sehnen. Auf die Gemeinschaft, auf den Austausch untereinander.
      Die letzten zwei Tage waren geprägt von Abschied nehmen von Freunden und Weggefährten, wohlwissend dass wir uns vielleicht nie mehr sehen werden. Bei denen wir eine tiefere Beziehung hatten fällt der Abschied noch etwas emotionaler aus. Aber da ist auch eine grosse Vorfreude auf zuhause, auf euch liebe Freunde die meine Reise begleitet haben. Auf meine wunderbare Familie und natürlich auf meine liebste Frau.
      Einige sind bereits weg, morgen gehen wir zuerst einmal nach Madrid. Emmanuele hat sich entschieden, dass wir gemeinsam zurück reisen wollen. Wie es weiter geht wissen wir noch nicht.
      Andere verlassen den Weg später oder hängen noch einen zusätzlichen Weg zum Beispiel nach Portugal an.
      Morgen dann mehr.
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    • Dag 40

      M'n grote vriend!

      16 augusti 2020, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Dag dag fiets! Wat heb je mij ver gebracht. En niet één keer een lekke band, of andere pech. Eigenlijk wel een beetje medelijden voor al het gemopper en gezeur dat je van mij hebt moeten aanhoren de afgelopen weken. Maar om dat goed te maken heb je wel de prachtigste landschappen mogen aanschouwen. Met als toppunt natuurlijk de kathedraal, hier in Santiago. De grote reis terug zul je alleen moeten maken. Maar binnen twee weken zie ik je weer in Nijkerk! Tot snel ;pLäs mer

    • Dag 14

      Cidade del Cultura

      8 juni 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      Da es ein wenig regnete, sind wir in Santiago de Compostela zur Cidade da Cultura gefahren, um einen Eindruck zu bekommen. Architekt ist Peter Eisenmann, der u.a. auch das Holocaust Mahnmal in Berlin entworfen hat.Läs mer

    • Dag 16

      Unser Tag in Santiago

      28 maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      Heute ist Pfingsten, ein wichtiger christlicher Feiertag, auch hier in Santiago de Compostela.
      Heute früh haben wir erstmal ausgeschlafen, erst nach 8 Uhr aufgestanden. Wir hatten kurz überlegt, früh aufzustehen und die Pilgermesse um 7.30 Uhr in der Kathedrale zu besuchen, weil die wahrscheinlich noch recht wenig besucht ist und man gut reinkommt, uns dann aber dagegen entschieden und lieber einen entspannten Morgen gehabt.. Ein schnelles Frühstück im Zimmer und dann halb zehn los Richtung Kathedrale und Innenstadt. Wir waren kurz in dem Park, wo ein kleiner Rummel und ein großes Riesenrad stehen, um zu erfahren, dass es dort erst um 17 Uhr losgehen soll. Wir sind dann durch die Stadt gestreift und haben Souvenirs, T-Shirts und andere Sachen geshoppt, muss ja jetzt nicht mehr weit getragen werden. Kurz vor halb 11 kamen wir an der Kathedrale vorbei, wo sich schon eine riesige Schlange für die 11-Uhr-Messe gebildet hatte. Naja, ist eben Pfingsten, da wollen anscheinend viele Katholiken zur Messe in die Kathedrale. Wir haben dann verzichtet, uns nicht angestellt, und so leider nicht die Kathedrale von innen gesehen. Naja, nicht so schlimm, Wir sind weiter durch die Stadt gegangen. Zum Mittag haben wir uns ein kleines Restaurant gesucht und im Innenhof lecker Entrecote, Patatas con Aioli und Pimentos de Padrón gegessen und Sangria getrunken, sehr gut. Dann haben wir gesehen, dass sich das Riesenrad schon drehte, sind hingegangen und eine Runde mitgefahren. Weiter rumgelaufen, später gab's ein leckeres Eis. Dann Richtung Hotel, so langsam machten sich die Füße wieder bemerkbar vom vielen Rumlaufen. Auf dem Heimweg noch ein Café con leche und ein Nata, und noch zwei Teilchen fürs Zimmer mitgenommen . Kurz nach 16 Uhr waren wir zurück. Das war auch gut so, denn bald darauf fing es heftig an zu schütten und zu gewittern. Jetzt am frühen Abend immer mal wieder Schauer und Gewitter, aber wir wollen eh nicht mehr raus heute.
      Morgen früh 6.30 Uhr holt uns das Taxi zum Flughafen ab.
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    • Dag 9

      Freezing

      30 mars, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

      The weather is so cold 🥶 It feels like 2C with temps of 8C. I did not pack for these temperatures. I'm spending a lot of time under the duvets in my hotel as I'm not inclined to go out in this cold.

      I do make my way out to finish my pilgrimage. One of the things you do at the end of the walk is visit the cathedral and embrace the apostle, St James. There is a long queue to 1st get in the cathedral and then an even longer queue to do the embrace. Pilgrims are arriving in the hundreds over the Easter period. Good Friday had over 3000 and today ended up being close to 3000 again so there are a lot of people wanting to do the embrace. Maybe even dome Spanish people who also just came to Santiago de Compestela for Easter celebrations as well. Once we're all cleaned up and in regular clothes it's hard to tell who's done the walk. Thankfully I don't have any real schedule for the day so I'm happy to queue.

      There are signs that you should touch your face to the statue, probably from the pandemic times, and there is no photography. There is also a security guard making sure people just do the embrace quickly and move on. I do it and my face tingles. I should have been more careful with the embrace but I'm not tall enough for my face to be over the shoulder.

      I reward myself with a churros and chocolate sauce after I complete my mission. It's decadent! So rich, I can't finish the sauce. I take some pictures whilst it's not raining. The old town is beautiful with cobblestone streets. There are lots of touristy shops and restaurants but it's still cute.
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