Spain
Foncebadón

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    • Day 37

      Foncebadon to Ponferrada

      October 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

      We were up early and having breakfast at 7 am as knew we had another big days walk ahead. A beautiful cool morning as we left the dear little mountain village .
      Our first stop was at the highest point on Camino the Cruz de Ferro ( the Iron Cross) It has become a significant monument of the Camino where people and places are remembered and stones of that place are placed on the base of the Cross. So with the sun rising and standing 1500 meters above level Brian and I placed 2 little rocks from Hatepe , Jack's very special place. Hugs and tears and on we went.
      It was a steep descent at times but as usual it is the little things that give us joy in this adventure. Wonderful happy walkers and today had 2 lots of singing moments.
      Then there were the gorgeous stone and wood Chalet type buildings with balconies of
      red geraniums.
      At our stop for late morning tea we ate delicious lemon sugar pancakes. This is where we farewelled Bill who was catching a train from Ponferada to Leon. It has been great having his company for a few days and getting a sense of the Camino spirit!
      On and on we descended really having to watch where we put our feet! Once again thankgoodness for poles.
      After about 22 km we had a drink and a small bite to eat at Molinesca which has a beautiful old stone bridge. A couple of pilgrims were swimming and we were envious.
      The usual last few km slog and we are now in Ponferada which is a surprisingly big city with a famous castle which we have yet to explore.
      28km today and about 28 C
      I was thoroughly spoilt last night for my birthday,presents and a yum dinner and beautiful Spanish wine. How lucky am I!
      Take note of the binned walking shoes! We took 2 pairs and now we only have 1 pair left.
      Just voted on Lee's tablet.
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    • Day 27

      Unburdening

      October 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      This morning Morgan and I got a fairly early start - it was dark and also foggy, very evocative as we climbed up toward the Cruz de ferro. What can I say? Just before we arrived there, something unexpectedly shifted, or, really, lifted in me. It was a great grace. The stone I carried has been on behalf of someone else, so I really was surprised, and I can only hope that person will experience something as healing as I believe I did today.

      The picture of the Cruz de ferro in daylight was taken by Ollie, who came along a little later than e we did. Thanks Ollie! You
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    • Day 30

      Day 27 Fonceboden to El Acebo

      October 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

      It didn't take long to reach the Cruz de Ferro (Cross of Iron). A famous stop where pilgrims leave a rock or other itoken of love and blessing commemorating their journey. I spent about 20 minutes looking for the stones we left last year but they were apparently buried under the thousands left since then. I had a special heart to leave that Randy and I had engraved with our names, the date and our city. I ended up wedging it into a crack of the pole holding the cross. Not far after that I passed through the village of Manjarin, population 1, the resident who operates the bare bones, uniquely adorned Mountain Albergue. The hike today was a steep up and down through the forest and high cattle pastures. Last night I had considered pushing through to Ponferrada today as I realized El Acebo wasn't as far as I thought and that weather was likely to prevent the spectacular views of last year. But then I woke up hearing the wind and rain and I thought better of it. I am so glad I did because it rained the majority of the hike and the wind was so strong it was blowing me off trail. The "luxury" of a hot shower and a private room were never so welcome!!!Read more

    • Day 31

      El Acebo

      October 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

      Today we hit a big milestone. We had breakfast and headed up to the highest point on the Camino, the Cruz de Ferro. It’s a spot where pilgrims have left a rock from their homeland in a huge pile for centuries. We both left our rock along with our wishes. It was very touching.

      We are in beautiful country now. The hills are rounded and very green. There was mist and fog most of the day. It rained a bit but not enough to need our punches. Tomorrow the chance of rain is 90%.

      We were concerned about this steep downhill section that has a lot of rocks and a bad reputation. We just took it slowly and carefully using our poles. I think the people who were concerned about that on the Internet have probably never hiked in Yosemite! It really wasn’t a problem at all. Tomorrow is more of the same downhill with rocks for the first five or 6 km. Then we have a flat walk into a city of 65,000 people called Ponferrada.pepeople.
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    • Day 25

      Foncebadon > Ponferrada

      October 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      Only 26K but some TREACHEROUS downhills so took like 7 hours 😂 Passed the stone drop-y place but couldn't sacrifice protection rock else certain death would ensue imminently. Also quite fancying stabby mediaeval shoesRead more

    • Day 5

      Day 4: El Gonzo to Foncebadon

      April 9 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

      Last nights adventure sleeping in a teepee with no heat went ok. I was in my sleeping bag, fully clothed, jacket on and two heavy blankets. Was worried our stuff was not going to dry out. But alas, when we woke up all our clothing was good to go.
      We walked 8.5 miles in the trail. All up hill.
      Today we met a bunch of people. Decided to stay in an alberque with them. Had a communal dinner tonight.
      Good day.
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    • Day 10

      What does one give away on the Camino

      April 18 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 37 °F

      After a dinner and rich conversation with friends from Singapore, we were up both dawn to hike to Cruz de Ferro before first light. We each had a rock of two to symbolize leaving something behind. I selected the false prioritization of work. After the cross we walked along the ridge line amongst snow covered peaks in the distance and pine trees before us. Slowly and painfully at time we descended more than 4,000 feet. Enjoying coffee at a ridge top and walking through small villages. After more than 16 miles we arrived in Ponferrada.Read more

    • Day 28

      Foncebadon to Ponferrada - part one

      April 19 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 1 °C

      I'm growing increasingly concerned that I'm in the Matrix and this is all AI generated. Which wouldn't be so bad, I like laying down and leather jackets.

      The 20km from Foncebadon to Molinaseca, mountains carpeted in wildflowers, might be the prettiest stage yet. Just incredible, not a single photo does it justice. Unfortunately Molinaseca to Ponferrada was the pits, and the currency my body runs on appears to be beauty because it was on fumes those last 7km.

      At one point, just because it felt good to say, I squeaked "help" a few times. Nobody did but I got there in the end. 500m away from the albergue I walked past a bar filled with copies of exactly the same fat Spanish man in his 70s and one of them closest to the window called out holaaaa guapaaaa which I've since confirmed is a cat call, and I was almost immediately beeped at by an appreciative van. Thank you sirs! Choke.

      But back to Foncebadon. I hung around to watch the sunrise given the town is apparently known for it and the elevation profile bears it out - I won't be able to get meaningfully higher early enough to beat this as the best spot. I slept in, packed up in the dawn, and ordered a coffee to cup in my hands as I climbed up on a hill of ruins to see it come up. I've seen the sunrise almost every day here, but it doesn't get old, and this was worth the wait.

      Today is a wonderfully spaced walk, with a highlight of the whole Camino coming a few kilometres in with the Cruce de Ferro (Iron Cross) at which thousands before me have left stones carried from their homelands. Originally, apparently, you carried one of a size correlating to your sins, but now I think JC is ok with travelling light so I brought a pebble. It's more about the symbolisism of carrying a weight you then leave behind on the path. It got a bit gulpy. It came earlier than I was ready for but that's probably one of the lessons isn't it. I arrived at the cross with an American woman I've actually grown fond of, and she said she took some photos of me up there in the early light, when I get them you'll see them.
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    • Day 28

      Cruce de Ferro

      April 19 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 3 °C

      I never saw that American woman again, so the pictures she took of me and my wobbly chin in a quiet moment alone with the cross will live undisturbed on her phone.

      The cross came reasonably early in the day so when I left the albergue after the sunrise I tucked the pebble I'd be leaving into my palm. We held hands until we reached it, where I gave it one last squeeze and let it tumble still warm, onto the pile.

      I'm sure it came as quite the shock to this little stone, to have been plucked from outside my home front door, plunged into the dark recesses of a backpack and then dropped into a crowded group of its peers halfway across the world.

      As I scrambled back down and saddled up my pack again, the different department leads in my head got together and argued about whether now was the time to cry. I politely gave them a moment, holding onto a fence and avoiding eye contact, but they couldn't reach a consensus so on I went.
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    • Day 28

      Foncebadón to Ponferrada

      April 29 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 36 °F

      371 miles done. 129 to go.

      Some steep and very rocky trails to descend today into Ponferrada. 5.5 hours of being careful to not sprain an ankle with a wrong step is kind of exhausting! Gorgeous views again today. I’m at 75% of the way!

      I went to a highly rated Italian restaurant and ate my heart out. But I couldn’t decide between the risotto or the pizza… so I ordered both.

      The risotto with Gorgonzola cheese, sliced almonds, candied pear, emmental cheese, and crispy bacon?… heaven in a skillet.

      The pizza was chicken and pepperoni and bbq sauce on a super thin crust. It was delicious.

      But I was embarrassed that I only ate half of each. Because I really ordered two entrees that could have fed 4 people. So I asked for a to-go box. They packaged everything up perfectly and halfway through my walk home, I admitted to myself that 1) I have no refrigeration in my dorm-room size alburgue, 2) I have to be up in 8 hours to walk again, and 3) I’ve already pre-paid for breakfast tomorrow morning at my accommodation. So, I donated it to a trash bin.

      I really didn’t want to admit that I was ok being wasteful by ordering twice what I actually needed just to have some variety, and then I doubled down on this wastefulness by getting a to-go bag with all the packaging, just to then throw it away. Ugh.

      But now overstuffed and overwalked, I’m going to sleep. Night!
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Foncebadón, Foncebadon, 24722

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