Hiszpania
Grañón

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    • Dzień 9

      Tag 9: Nájera - Grañón

      28 lutego, Hiszpania ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

      Es ist die Simplizität, die ich am Wandern so liebe. Laufen, essen, schlafen. Mehr nicht.
      Und doch sieht jeder Tag anders aus. Jeder Tag hat seine eigene Geschichte. Eine Mischung aus Begegnungen, Landschaft, Gedanken und Gefühlen. Manchmal erinnert mich ein bestimmter Moment an einen ganz bestimmten Wandertag, der bereits lange vergangen ist.
      Heute war einer dieser Tage, an dem sich ein Thema immer wieder durchzieht.
      Einfachheit.

      Mal wieder startete ich im Regen, schnell war ich durchnässt. Das einzige, was dann hilft: laufen und keinen negativen Gedanken nachhängen. Lächeln, Spaß suchen und ihn behalten.
      Es sind diese Momente, die mich manchmal in ein ganz besonderes Hoch befördern - zu merken, dass man dem Gegenwind und Regen standhalten kann.

      Durch weite Felder und an Straßen verlief der heutige Weg. Ja, auch das ist der Camino. Nicht nur schön, nicht nur aufregend. Nach ca. 20 km kam ich in ‚Santo Domingo’ an, wo ich mit Alex (SWE) in einem Café Wärme suchte.

      Inzwischen bin ich in ‚Grañón‘ angekommen. Die Herberge für nächste Nacht ist ein „Donativo“, eine freiwillig geführte Herberge, von Pilgern für Pilger, im Stil wie vor 50-100 Jahren.
      Einfachheit.
      Das „Donativo“ liegt über einer 800 Jahre alten Kirche. Über eine alte Steinwendeltreppe gelangt man in den Wohnraum. Im Kamin prasselt ein Feuer, es riecht nach Leben.
      Tradition dieses Hauses ist es, dass alle Pilger um 17:30 Uhr gemeinsam kochen, bevor es eine kleine Pilgermesse gibt, gemeinsames Essen und eine anschließende Austauschrunde mit einer Meditation. Einfachheit.

      Vom ersten Moment an fühle ich eine tiefe Weisheit an diesem Ort. Eine Weisheit, die ich beim Wandern/Pilgern erlebe.
      Nach dem Essen haben wir eine Art Pilgerliturgie. Nichts kompliziertes und doch wirksam. Wir kommen ins Gespräch über unsere Beweggründe für den Camino. Für einige ist es ein sehr bewegender Abend.
      Heute fühlt es sich für mich nicht richtig an, auf einer Matratze zu schlafen. Ich schlafe auf dem Boden.
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    • Dzień 9

      The catch(es)

      31 lipca 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

      The communal meal was delayed because, being the last day of the month, there was a change of hospitaleros: 2 volunteers running the albergue were leaving, and 2 new ones had to be inducted.
      Once everything was ready, we (the 25 or so guests) were invited to go to the kitchen and prepare food for 30 people. There was no direction, we could prepare anything we wanted with the ingredients available.
      Since no one was 'in charge' there was a lot of talking before any action started. And I was tired and hungry!
      There was a majority of Italians in the group, so you guessed it: there was going to be pasta. I called for lentils as a complement, for some plant-based protein. So there was that, plus salad.
      I helped chopping veggies, and the Italians did the cooking.
      When everything was ready we took tables and chairs down to the plaza, and ate there. It was nice in the shade with a light breeze, sadly I didn't take photos of the table (all my attention was on the eating!).
      The meal was satisfying, and then I just wanted to go to sleep. But here was catch #1: we all had to help with the dishes 🤦🏻‍♀️
      They brought plastic containers with water to the tables, which were set up as washing and rinsing stations, with a drying station at the end. There were 3 sets: one for dishes, one for glasses and one for cuttlery, etc.
      When all was clean and tidy, all I wanted to do was sleep. But there was one more thing to do: the 'optional' gathering of the pilgrims, to be held at the church choir. The hospitalera mentioned 'prayer' in relation to the gathering and, as I am not religious, I wasn't keen. But then she came to me and the other couple of people who were just hanging around the bedroom and encouraged us to go, saying it's a very special moment, very emotional and moving. So, I made the effort, as it was probably going to be my only chance to experience that special moment in the whole Camino - though it felt a bit like catch #2.
      The sat in a circle, and religious content was kept to a minimum. There was a bit of history about the albergue, then we went around the room to hear from everyone what they were hoping to get out of the Camino. Then we got up and held hands, and went around again, everyone saying a wish for the person on their right. Finally, we released hands, mixed up and gave hugs (I think this made an already existing covid risk even worse, but no one seemed to care).
      Finally, after that I could go to sleep. It was after 10pm and not the most comfortable sleep (there was no pillow). While I wasn't in a rush to get up early in the morning, others had an alarm at 5am and started packing up, meaning I couldn't sleep as much as I needed.
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    • Dzień 18

      Flora, Fauna, Art & Footprints

      5 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

      Today was a hard day in terms of walking. There weren't steep uphills or downhills, just monotonous trails that often times paralleled the highway. There were times I thought the road would never end. No shade, dusty, gravelly walking with miles of wheat fields. However, when I thought of the highlights of the day, I couldn't narrow it down to just 3 or 5, there were many more than that! So I guess it was a pretty darn good day!

      #1 Walking with Inga & Bengt (from Sweden) to our first rest stop in Granon and seeing the church there. In the church we met our Texas & North Carolina friends.

      #2 our second stop had a nice bar, I had the most delicious cherry juice. On our way out of the village French couple showed us a fig tree, and picked us a fresh fig to try. I discovered I've never had a fresh fig, only dried figs. Fresh ones are not nearly as sweet they are very soft & not chewy.

      #3 I learned what a chestnut tree looks like and saw a bunch of walnuts out drying in the sun.

      #4 We stopped for lunch & had a really good salad, homemade bread with delicious olive oil at our last stop. It was a kind of fancy place for such a small village. The restaurant had this baby crib full of cute baby dolls (a little weird, but cool) & we met Vince from Detroit. We walked & talked with him & it made the last hot, dusty leg into Belorado seem pretty short!

      #5 Our lodging in Belorado is this cool 1850's 3 story building decorated with Nicoraguan artifacts. The host Paul was happy to share the story of his house with us.

      #6 On many of the buildings here there are beautiful murals painted.

      #6 Lastly, on one of the streets we walked down tonight Martin Sheen & Emilio Estevez have their hand & footprints saved as part of the history here.
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    • Dzień 15

      Day 12 - Grañón to Villafranca Monte de

      27 maja 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

      At a glance:
      Cultural highlight: stayed in a pilgrims tradition hospital San Anton Abad
      Food highlights: chicken in orange sauce
      Kilometres walked: a measly 12k
      # of steps: 15,596
      Elevation gain: 213m
      We need to skip the equivalent of 3 stages (days) in order to get to Lyon where they have train services. So we are skipping 12 kilometers today by taking a bus then walking. That is, if we can find the bus stop and if the bar tender read the schedule correctly.
      Ricardo left behind an ear bud which I passed on to a fellow Italian pilgrim who knew Ricardo. Unfortunately, this evening we ran into Ricardo, and his name is not Ricardo, it is Lorenzo! I should have kept the ear bud as Lorenzo hasn't seen his fellow pilgrim who has his $200 earbud.
      We sat next to two men at dinner and when one mentioned BC Liquor stores, we chatted with them. They grew up in Victoria, one, Steve, ended up in Abbotsford and Mike in London but kept in touch with each other and when they retired they decided to do the Camino together.
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    • Dzień 9

      New experience

      31 lipca 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      Today I'm trying something new: I'm staying at the St John Baptist parochial albergue, in Grañón. It was highly recommended in the guide I've been following, for an experience in the true spirit of the Camino.
      There's no fee to stay here. People are asked to leave a donation in a box if they can, and are invited to take from the box if they need.
      There is a kitchen stocked with groceries, and guests prepare a communal meal.
      I can report on that later, as I just arrived and still have to have a shower and do my laundry - that in itself is a weird arrangement: we can hand wash on the second floor of the albergue, but we have to go to a bus stop around the corner to put it out to dry.
      They usually have a mass after dinner, but not today because it's Sunday 😅 . They will have a gathering with all the pilgrims instead.
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    • Dzień 16

      Day 13 Granon to Tosantos

      3 października 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

      Today was much cooler, with a cloud cover most of the day. We have left the Rioja region and crossed into Castilla and Leon. This area has acres and acres of sunflowers. We missed them in bloom though. We walked through numerous small villages and had lunch in Belorado. We had delicious salads with prawns, salmon and avocado. We met up with "the last patrol", our veteran guardian angels again. We also had a nice family style/home cooked meal at our Albergue Los Arancones and met up with our French friend Jackie. The albergue was Les than half full. Czytaj więcej

    • Dzień 14–15

      Belorado

      20 września 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

      Today's walk (14-ish miles) involved a couple more small towns, always centered around a church, with a restaurant/bar conveniently located across the plaza from it. The churches pictured today include one in the town where Santo Domingo was baptized. (He's a big deal because after being rejected by the Benedictines twice, he went on to build infrastructure in service to pilgrims.) The same baptismal font is still used today. The other church, with a similarly ornate altar, is here in Belorado, where one can leave a written prayer intention, as MB did.

      Lots of fields (with more sad sunflowers) straddling a highway today, with a very windy stretch at the end. Also crossed over from La Rioja into Castilla y Leon.

      We may have to stop taking pics of churches as they are all starting to look alike. But we are definitely taking pics of the better casas and rooms where we stay. Tonight's is so charming and pretty. Unless there is a fireworks show right outside our hotel after we turn in, as happened last night, we should sleep well. I'm beat.

      BTW, Google Translate (and Google Lens, for menus) are excellent companions, as fewer people speak English in the towns we are now walking through.
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    • Dzień 11

      First stop today

      10 sierpnia 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      We experienced a beautiful sunrise today! But we need to slow down a bit! Silvia‘s foot doesn‘t look too good and my muscles are aching! Almost everybody has more or less trouble with legs or feet- Tom also shared his pains with us! Keep on running! Czytaj więcej

    • Dzień 18

      Granon

      5 września 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

      Jesteśmy w Granon, które jest kolejnym średniowiecznym miasteczkiem z kościołem pamiętającym czasy Sw.Dominika , który spędził całe życie w okolicy pomagając pielgrzymom i mieszkańcom. Jak był młodym chłopakiem chciał się zapisać do Benedyktynów ale go dwa razy nie przyjęli. Zmartwiony był i mieszkał od tej pory w pustelni , ale cały czas udzielał się. Czasy się troszkę zmieniły i przybył do okolicy Grzegorz z Ostu, wysłannik papieski, który bardzo zaprzyjaźnił się z Dominikiem i w końcu ordynowal go na mnicha. Później zaprzyjaźnili się i połączyli siły z San Juan de Ortega. Wynikiem tego całkowitego zaangażowania był nowy most, najpierw drewniany potem kamienny umożliwiający pielgrzymom przeprawę przez rzekę.
      W niewielkim miasteczku Santo Domingo de la Calzada znajduje się piękna konkatedra w której spoczywaja relikwie Santo Domingo. Legendy mówią, że Dominik mógł przywracać wzrok i wyganiać demony.
      Teraz już szybko trochę o kurach. Opisywaliśmy je ze szczegółami w zeszłym roku. Po niedawnym wyroku przez powieszenie ( za wymyślone przestępstwo) młodzieniec, który wisiał żył po wielu dniach. Rodzice widząc co się dzieje poszli do sędziego, aby go uwolnił, a on jedząc kury na obiad powiedział, że jak młodzieniec jest żywy to tak samo te upieczone kury. Kury natychmiast ożyły, dostały piór i odleciały głośno hałasując. Od tej pory nad grobem Dominika zawsze są obecne kury ponoć z tym samym materiałem genetycznym i wymieniają je co miesiąc.
      Ja dzisiaj na wszelki wypadek nie zamawiałem kury na obiad.
      Rano wyszliśmy z Azorfy , miasteczka, które żyje dzięki pielgrzymom i nic tam nie ma. Droga falowała we wszystkich kierunkach i poziomach pomiędzy kończącymi się pomału winogronami, a zaczynającymi się polami słoneczników. Temperatura rosła i w końcu zrobiła się mało przyjemna, a ostatnie 7 km, po opuszczeniu Santo Domingo wyssało z nas wszystkie siły ... Do czasu az zamówiliśmy pyszne Tinto de Verano w barze naszego miejsca spoczynku dzisiejszej nocy.
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    • Dzień 10

      Border crossing

      1 sierpnia 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      Today I crossed another border, leaving La Rioja to enter Castilla y León.
      As happened in the last few days, it was cloudy with a nice temperature in the morning. Then the clouds disappeared and it got hot.
      I didn't have a firm decision on today's destination: it could be Belorado at 16k, or Tosantos at 20k.
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    Możesz znać też następujące nazwy tego miejsca:

    Grañón, Granon

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