Spania
Grañón

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    • Dag 18

      Flora, Fauna, Art & Footprints

      5. oktober 2022, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

      Today was a hard day in terms of walking. There weren't steep uphills or downhills, just monotonous trails that often times paralleled the highway. There were times I thought the road would never end. No shade, dusty, gravelly walking with miles of wheat fields. However, when I thought of the highlights of the day, I couldn't narrow it down to just 3 or 5, there were many more than that! So I guess it was a pretty darn good day!

      #1 Walking with Inga & Bengt (from Sweden) to our first rest stop in Granon and seeing the church there. In the church we met our Texas & North Carolina friends.

      #2 our second stop had a nice bar, I had the most delicious cherry juice. On our way out of the village French couple showed us a fig tree, and picked us a fresh fig to try. I discovered I've never had a fresh fig, only dried figs. Fresh ones are not nearly as sweet they are very soft & not chewy.

      #3 I learned what a chestnut tree looks like and saw a bunch of walnuts out drying in the sun.

      #4 We stopped for lunch & had a really good salad, homemade bread with delicious olive oil at our last stop. It was a kind of fancy place for such a small village. The restaurant had this baby crib full of cute baby dolls (a little weird, but cool) & we met Vince from Detroit. We walked & talked with him & it made the last hot, dusty leg into Belorado seem pretty short!

      #5 Our lodging in Belorado is this cool 1850's 3 story building decorated with Nicoraguan artifacts. The host Paul was happy to share the story of his house with us.

      #6 On many of the buildings here there are beautiful murals painted.

      #6 Lastly, on one of the streets we walked down tonight Martin Sheen & Emilio Estevez have their hand & footprints saved as part of the history here.
      Les mer

    • Dag 9

      The catch(es)

      31. juli 2022, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

      The communal meal was delayed because, being the last day of the month, there was a change of hospitaleros: 2 volunteers running the albergue were leaving, and 2 new ones had to be inducted.
      Once everything was ready, we (the 25 or so guests) were invited to go to the kitchen and prepare food for 30 people. There was no direction, we could prepare anything we wanted with the ingredients available.
      Since no one was 'in charge' there was a lot of talking before any action started. And I was tired and hungry!
      There was a majority of Italians in the group, so you guessed it: there was going to be pasta. I called for lentils as a complement, for some plant-based protein. So there was that, plus salad.
      I helped chopping veggies, and the Italians did the cooking.
      When everything was ready we took tables and chairs down to the plaza, and ate there. It was nice in the shade with a light breeze, sadly I didn't take photos of the table (all my attention was on the eating!).
      The meal was satisfying, and then I just wanted to go to sleep. But here was catch #1: we all had to help with the dishes 🤦🏻‍♀️
      They brought plastic containers with water to the tables, which were set up as washing and rinsing stations, with a drying station at the end. There were 3 sets: one for dishes, one for glasses and one for cuttlery, etc.
      When all was clean and tidy, all I wanted to do was sleep. But there was one more thing to do: the 'optional' gathering of the pilgrims, to be held at the church choir. The hospitalera mentioned 'prayer' in relation to the gathering and, as I am not religious, I wasn't keen. But then she came to me and the other couple of people who were just hanging around the bedroom and encouraged us to go, saying it's a very special moment, very emotional and moving. So, I made the effort, as it was probably going to be my only chance to experience that special moment in the whole Camino - though it felt a bit like catch #2.
      The sat in a circle, and religious content was kept to a minimum. There was a bit of history about the albergue, then we went around the room to hear from everyone what they were hoping to get out of the Camino. Then we got up and held hands, and went around again, everyone saying a wish for the person on their right. Finally, we released hands, mixed up and gave hugs (I think this made an already existing covid risk even worse, but no one seemed to care).
      Finally, after that I could go to sleep. It was after 10pm and not the most comfortable sleep (there was no pillow). While I wasn't in a rush to get up early in the morning, others had an alarm at 5am and started packing up, meaning I couldn't sleep as much as I needed.
      Les mer

    • Dag 12

      Santo Domingo to Belorado

      30. september 2023, Spania ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

      After all the fun and food yesterday we were slow to roll out and didn’t start walking until 7:00. Which meant an extra hour at the end walking along unshaded roads under a hot sun. But! The morning started so beautifully, with that giant full moon hanging in the sky ahead of us in the dark, and then a deep orange sunrise building behind us. The mornings have been magical!

      After days walking through the Rioja Region we left it today - that’s what the tall marker in the photo indicates. No big change yet in scenery. The walk was not too eventful, just eventually very hot! It did take us through the birthplace of St. Domingo. And also it was fun to encounter a pharmaceutical vending machine, loaded with all sorts of things often needed by foot weary pilgrims.

      Everyone on the path was buzzing about the albergue with the - gasp! - swimming pool!! Which is where I am now, and I will say, soaking my feet in that very cold pool felt very good. We also carbo-loaded at the pilgrim dinner, so I’m ready for a good walk tomorrow, hopefully with a 6:00 AM start.
      Les mer

    • Dag 16

      Day 13 Granon to Tosantos

      3. oktober 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

      Today was much cooler, with a cloud cover most of the day. We have left the Rioja region and crossed into Castilla and Leon. This area has acres and acres of sunflowers. We missed them in bloom though. We walked through numerous small villages and had lunch in Belorado. We had delicious salads with prawns, salmon and avocado. We met up with "the last patrol", our veteran guardian angels again. We also had a nice family style/home cooked meal at our Albergue Los Arancones and met up with our French friend Jackie. The albergue was Les than half full.Les mer

    • Dag 11

      First stop today

      10. august 2022, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      We experienced a beautiful sunrise today! But we need to slow down a bit! Silvia‘s foot doesn‘t look too good and my muscles are aching! Almost everybody has more or less trouble with legs or feet- Tom also shared his pains with us! Keep on running!Les mer

    • Dag 10

      Border crossing

      1. august 2022, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      Today I crossed another border, leaving La Rioja to enter Castilla y León.
      As happened in the last few days, it was cloudy with a nice temperature in the morning. Then the clouds disappeared and it got hot.
      I didn't have a firm decision on today's destination: it could be Belorado at 16k, or Tosantos at 20k.
      Les mer

    • Dag 29

      Redecilla del Camino

      6. januar, Spania ⋅ 🌧 5 °C

      Hilde schläft immer mal auf den Weg ein, aber wenn ich länger anhalte, ist sie gleich am Start.

      "Redecilla del Camino.
      Auch in diesem Ort ist die Entwicklung und Geschichte eng mit dem Jakobsweg verbunden. Auf dem heutigen Grundstück einer Pilgerherberge befand sich einst das Sankt Lazarus, ein Pilgerhospiz. Sehenswert ist der romanische Taufstein in der Kirche Virgen de la Calle aus dem 12.Jahrhundert."

      https://www.jakobsweg.de/caminofrances/etappe-10/

      Lustig ist die Pharmacie -Kaufbar vor dem Eingang zu einer Herberge. Wer auf der 10. Etappe seine Schuhe noch nicht eingelaufen hat, der ist schlecht dran. Aber hier findet sich alles, was der Körper begehrt. Neue Gelenke werden allerdings erst im Krankenhaus von Burgos angeboten.
      Les mer

    • Dag 16

      Grañón

      30. mars, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      The day started cold and foggy. A day of walking through industrial estates and farm land. The path goes through Cirueña (known for its Rioja Alta golf course) and Santo Domingo de la Calzada with its 11th Century cathedral which I did not enter.

      I have somehow caught a cold: I hope prayer, medication and sleep will deal with it.

      The Hospital de Perigrinos San Juan Bautista is a known for being one of the friendliest places to stay. They provided lunch with cake. We helped cook dinner, had conversation and slept on thin mattress on the floor.

      [Day 12, 22 km walked, 220 km from St Jean Pied-de-Port, 563 km to Santiago.]
      Les mer

    • Dag 11

      feelin the heat en route to Belorado!

      20. april 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F

      starting to feel the desert heat that I’ll be feeling more of in the coming second third of the Camino. today was still fun because I had very interesting talks w new friends, (despite getting lost and accidentally taking a +2.5mi detour) and because the albergue I’m staying in tonight has a pool !!!! 😁😁😁Les mer

    • Alesanco to Grañón

      24. september 2022, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      After a very good night’s sleep at the Pensión Jauja and self served breakfast of coffee, toast and home-made cake we left as soon as there was enough light to see our way, i.e. about dawn at 7:45am.

      Gerard Mc. tried to phone so we returned his call from Jindera where he was watching the AFL Grand Final. Geelong well ahead at half time.

      Today’s 23km walk was in 3 equal sized segments. First part was a walk down the road to rejoin the Camino path, followed by a good path up to Cirueña, rising about 200m in altitude.

      About an hour in it started to rain so we deployed hitherto unused matching mustard coloured ponchos which kept us dry in the very light rain. Coffee and tortillas at the Bar Jacobeo in Cirueña were well worth the 300m detour off-Camino. When we finished there the rain had stopped.

      From there it was a gentle mostly downhill run on a wide path to Santo Domingo de la Calzada (“Saint Dominic of the paved path”). It’s an ancient town that grew up around the hermitage of Dominic Garcia (not Guzman who founded the Dominican order). Back around 1000 he apparently built bridges and paths to facilitate travel to Santiago and is the patron saint of Spanish civil engineers.

      Yesterday was mostly through wine country but today was mostly through wheat country: huge already harvested fields of brown or yellow depending on whether the stubble had been ploughed in or not. It was a very wide and beautiful landscape, with occasional enormous stacks of hay bales.

      In the center of Santo Domingo we stopped for a sandwich and a drink and aired our feet for about an hour.

      Our third segment took us up slightly in altitude to Grañón. Rain set in and got quite heavy for the last 3km as we reached Grañón; the ponchos were deployed again.

      There was some confusion about how to get the key to the apartment we had booked. I (K) had failed to notice an email with very brief instructions in Spanish. I phoned the owner and asked him to resend the email. He did so and all was fine. Just had to collect the key a block away.

      We’re living it up in a 2-bedroom 2-bathroom modern apartment with a washing machine. We will step out later for a proper feed after last night’s meagre rations. The rain has stopped.
      Les mer

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    Grañón, Granon

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