Espagne
Hornillos del Camino

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    • Jour 17

      Hornillos to Castrojeriz (not San Anton)

      Hier, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Very warm night and as we were anticipating another very warm day we left at 6 to try to make some progress while it was still coolish.
      First part of the walk was in the dark then gradually it got lighter, revealing the beautiful vista of the meseta.
      Awesome landscapes with fabulous flowers. Definitely one of my favourite places on the camino.
      Found coffee after about 9k - Albergue Fuente Sidres a couple of kilometres before Hontanas (only saying this to remind myself that it might be a good place to stay another time - think Caroline and I thought this too last time but I’d forgotten it). Delicious tortilla.
      Had a quick second coffee at Santa Brígida in Hontanas (also need to remember this is good and has a spa!) then on to San Anton (ruined abbey c14) where I was hoping to stay.
      A sudden shower of rain necessitated rain kit for the first time which was a pain but my poncho is good and it didn’t last long so stripped it off quickly as it was too hot to walk in a waterproof.
      Arrived at San Anton around 10.30 but unlike last year there were no drinks to buy and no hospitaleros around. It had a very different vibe and to be honest there were a lot of bugs so although it was great to look around and take a break, we decided to move on to Castrojeriz.
      On the way into Hontanas we had seen a sign advertising an albergue with a meditation room, zen garden and vegetarian meal. It didn’t include a contact number but I managed to find it on the wise pilgrim app and sent a WhatsApp to see if they had 2 beds available. It only takes 4 people but they replied immediately to say yes (as long as we get the vibe!! No alcohol or smoking and limited phone use!) can do most of that so walked on to Castrojeriz and are now installed in the meditation room which has tatami mat beds. Currently sitting in the zen garden (still very hot so not so zen atm) but it seems lovely and will certainly be interesting. Meditation at 6 and dinner at 7.
      After arriving went off to find some lunch and as recommended by our hospitalero went to local organic cafe and had a delicious tostada with tomato, cucumber, avocado and herbs. Found horse of the day there too.
      Then a much needed shower and the usual washing and now planning chill out session somewhere cool if possible. It’s still really hot and humid. Also need to charge my phone - not sure if that will be controversial or not!
      Managed to charge phone while having a siesta. Clothes dried in hot wind in the garden. Went for a wander ‘sin rumbo’ and found delicious cherries and a vegan banana muffin tho thing for breakfast tomorrow so all good.
      Meditation was good - mostly in Spanish with a bit of explanation where necessary but also mostly in silence. Then dinner. A delicious lentil salad thing with tomatoes, garlic and dill and a warm cous cous dish with raisins, sunflower seeds, carrot strips, dried apricots, peppers and some spices. Sat and chatted with our room mate Manuelo from Barcelona and drank his ginger tea and ate my strange vegan chocolate from Bulgaria (flavoured with cardamom, lemon and ginger - delicious but strange).
      Now time for bed in the meditation room with meditative music still playing (we’re not sure how to turn it off!!)
      En savoir plus

    • Jour 18

      Hornillos to Castrojeriz

      9 juin 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      Lulled to sleep by a nightingale and woken by a cuckoo - possibly only on the Camino and on the Meseta?
      Slightly wild dreams but was awake just before 6 and left around 6.40.
      Unbelievably beautiful landscapes again and again I’m wishing I could paint. It’s hard to describe how stunning our environs are here. You need to see it for yourself.
      We have been lucky with the weather - not too hot and very little rain today.
      Stopped for coffee at an albergue just before Honteras and then again in the town itself where we met up with Sheryl and Janice.
      Easy walking today with the final stretch into Castrojeriz passing a ruined monastery now run as a very simple albergue by the Canadian Confraternity. I have to stay there next time if I’m lucky enough to be able to do this again. It has no electricity so dinner is by candlelight. No hoy water either - but I can do cold showers!! I’m aiming for it!
      Arrived at our Albergue, Iacobus, which was at the very far end of the town. Hopefully this means a bit less distance tomorrow which at the moment looks like quite a long day.
      Managed to get washing dry despite heavy thundery showers.
      Dinner at the albergue - not very veggie friendly so had to eat fish as a main course but did get a cup of camomile tea at the end which was a bonus.
      Now trying to get an early night as very tired!
      En savoir plus

    • Jour 24

      Rain Got Me

      20 juin 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

      Bruce and I got caught just outside Hornillos Del Camino in my 1st real deluge on the trail and I gotta say.... Not a big fan of walking on open plains with lightning.

      I am a big fan of when the rain stops and the sparkling sunshine begins.

      If that's not a metaphor, then I'll just stop looking.
      En savoir plus

    • Jour 23

      Day 20 - Finish of the Mesta

      10 septembre 2023, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Left Hornillos del Camino 6.30 am arrived 12.30pm at Castrojeriz
      20ks
      We had a breakfast of toast and orange juice before we left this morning. Left in the dark as usual. The terrain today was similar as yesterday on the Mestea, not much except for dry paddocks, no animals at all. No shade. Only a few paddocks of sunflowers today.
      We passed through one village and a monastery.
      En savoir plus

    • Jour 27

      Day 18 - Hornillos del Camino

      23 septembre 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

      Back on the trail again after a good day off. We are now less than 500 kilometers from the completion (just under 300 miles). First day on the Meseta (you know, it only rains in Spain, mainly on the plains - meseta). No rain today but we did walk about 14.5 miles. It seems to be getting easier to do longer distance, provided the weather cooperates.En savoir plus

    • Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

      29 septembre 2022, Espagne ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

      Today we covered 21km, which is in our comfort range of about a half-marathon per day.

      We left Burgos about 8am after an improvised breakfast in our room of juice, yoghurt, cereal cookies and a massive chocolate croissant, determined to avoid running low on fuel like we probably did late yesterday.

      It was a pleasant walk of about 5km to the edge of Burgos. First through the central cathedral area, then along the river walkway for a while, and finally through the University of Burgos precinct as 9am lectures were about to start. The university has some very old and some very modern buildings.

      There is a killing to be made parking a food/coffee truck right there but, alas no coffee there as we passed through. Sadly we had to walk another 7km to Tardajos before we could self-caffeinate. We stopped for coffee and a sandwich/tortilla there.

      We were sad to find we would not be in Tardajos for the annual “Day of exaltation of the potato” on October 2 but we intend to be there in spirit on the 2nd.

      Then it was 2km or so to the village of Rabe de las Calzadas, which has lots of very large murals painted on the sides of buildings, many illustrating a bible quote.

      Leaving Rabe it was quite a steep climb on a wide dirt track for several kilometers to a ridge with many wind turbines. It became fairly windy and rainy in the ascent so the ponchos were donned again. I think we reached an altitude of about 940m above sea level.

      Then things flattened out and the weather cleared nicely as Hornillos del Camino was revealed a few km away, tucked into the next valley.

      We checked into Casa del Abuelo. It is very good and has a bar where we downed a couple of beers. Also here are 3 generations of an New Zealand family, doing the Camino with two infants in pushers. Hats off to them.

      Every day here the San Román church offers a Mass and blessing for pilgrims so we attended. Many countries represented. It was nicely done by a priest with a very good singing voice.
      En savoir plus

    • Jour 23

      Day 23. Hornillos to Castrojeriz

      6 juin, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

      We had a very good stay in Hornillos. Ran into Terry again from Canada. I love when our paths cross with other pilgrims we have met along the way. The group there were fun, making it very enjoyable and relaxing. We met Johann from Belgium, a couple from Connecticut, Peter from New Zealand and Stuart from Great Britain. Johann had done 6 Caminos, Peter had done 2, the couple from Connecticut had done the Appalachian trail in 5 months. All very accomplished hikers. We enjoyed another wonderful meal of paella and of course the wine flowed freely.
      I slept better last night but poor Steve was up most of the night. We got out about 0730, overcast skies and had a great walk to Hontanas. The fields were full of wildflowers and wheat. Some had already been baled. Went into a small cathedral where an older man stamped our pilgrims passport. He then wanted to show us a room outside of a small village. He pushed a button to start the water down the mountain into the fields. Very sweet of him to show it to us. We met a couple of girls from China enjoying the wildflowers and we all took pictures and shared them. They were too cute. We passed some ruins of an old monastery in San Anton. It is now being used as a municipal Albergue. We had a very slight rain while walking. Very refreshing and welcomed.
      Today we are staying in Castrojeriz at the Albergue Rosalia. We walked 13.3 miles (30,462 steps). The plantar fasciitis is more of an annoyance than pain now. So I think a combination of things is starting to work. I’m grateful today for walking without pain, grateful for the little shower we had on the trail and grateful for the beautiful walk we had
      En savoir plus

    • Jour 12

      Tag 12: Orbanjera - Hornillos del Camino

      2 mars, Espagne ⋅ ❄️ 4 °C

      Wie soll man so einen Tag beschreiben…?
      Schon am Morgen, als wir unsere Herberge verließen, fiel Mike (UK) und mir der starke Wind auf, der uns entgegenschlug.
      Es nieselte leicht; könnte besser sein, aber auch schlechter…
      Im kräftigen Gegenwind stapften wir die ersten 12 km in Richtung ‚Burgos‘, wo uns seine beeindruckende Kathedrale erwartete. Kaum standen wir in ihrem Innenraum, waren die ersten Strapazen vergessen. Ein unglaubliches Gebäude!

      Es ist meistens gut, dass man nicht weiß, was einen erwartet. Andernfalls hätten wir wahrscheinlich gar keine Offenheit für dieses wunderschöne Bauwerk gehabt.
      Kaum hatten wir Burgos verlassen, erwarteten uns Windstöße von über 70 km/h, Dauerregen und keinerlei Unterstellmöglichkeiten. Der Regen fegte horizontal über die Landschaft. Völlig durchnässt und durchgefroren kämpften wir uns bis Tardajos, wo wir uns erstmal in einem Café aufwärmten. Unter den Bedingungen kann man auch mal vor versammeltem Stammgastpersonal die Hosen runterlassen…! (Bild 7)

      Als wir weiterzogen und ich gerade den Gedanken ausformuliert hatte, wie dieser Tag denn noch härter sein könnte, wurde aus dem starken Regen Hagel. Ich konnte nicht anders als loszulachen.
      Den Kappenschirm tief ins Gesicht ziehen, gebückte Körperhaltung, so schnell wie möglich einen durchweichten Fuß vor den anderen setzen. Nur so blieben wir ansatzweise warm.

      Nach insgesamt 34 km kamen wir dann in ‚Hornillos del Camino’ an. Uns erwartete eine volle Herberge, die jedoch zwei reservierte Betten für uns bereithielt.
      Zitternd und mit großer Vorfreude stand ich endlich unter der Dusche und durfte feststellen, dass das Wasser nicht richtig heiß wurde.

      Alles in allem war es heute ein schwerer Tag. Dankbar, für mein warmen Quilt liege ich nun im Stockbett und fühle nach zwei Stunden langsam wieder so etwas wie Wärme im Körper. Ich freue mich auf eine hoffentlich halbwegs ruhige Nacht.
      En savoir plus

    • Jour 18

      Burgos to Hontanas - part two

      9 avril, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      The Meseta is a plateau, which means it's wide and flat. There's no shade, towns are more spaced out, and if one isn't close you know that for a fact, because you can see for miles. I can imagine in summer, that's all a bit hard. Today, it was clear, still and cool. Sun warming my hair but puffer on. Perfect walking weather, if less than optimal covert pee terrain.

      After stopping for a coffee in Tajardos, a coke in Hornillos (the traditional end point of today's stage) and Oreos on the side of the trail twice, I had four kilometres to go and was starting to count down. I was also really hungry and hoping to catch lunch before this 2-5pm shut down everywhere has. So I put my foot down and turned in 11-minute kilometres but still rolled in after two.

      I was resigned to eating something at the bar when I saw Rusty, both buckled and buckling up, outside a restaurant. He asked if I'd eaten, and told me he'd just had the best meal of his whole Camino including quite a lot of wine, and what's more they were serving for another hour! See separate post about that but spoiler alert, I agree.

      I got to check in to my albergue all in Italian, again, I wonder if it's common or I'm just finding every Italian hospitalero there is. My Spanish really stands no chance when I'm speaking its sister tongue so much but I am improving slowly.

      Today was one of my favourites of the whole trip and the idea that it nearly didn't happen almost stops my heart. Of course every day, every moment of our lives is a miracle of coincidence, but it's too much to imagine so I, like you probably, tend to think of a plan and unplan binary. Today was unplanned. It could have gone in so many directions, ended in so many towns. But it's wound up here. And how lucky I am for it.
      En savoir plus

    • Jour 15

      Hornillos del Camino

      5 septembre 2019, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      In Burgos hatte ich mal wieder nur Nescafé mit Kondensmilch aus der Tube zum Frühstück und ein geschenktes Magdalena. Aber es ist auch gut, erstmal 5-10 km zu laufen, und sich erst dann ein schickes Frühstück zu gönnen. Das war dann aber doch noch ein Dorf später (km 12) und an einer stark befahrenen Straße, also kein richtiges Camino-Frühstück ;-). Dafür ging es danach in die vielgerühmte und berüchtigte Meseta, die sich aber heute von einer ganz anderen Seite zeigte. Ja, Weizenfelder bzw. Stoppel, wohin man auch schaut, aber durchaus unterbrochen von ein paar Bäumen und insgesamt sanft hügelig. Da es ziemlich kalt ist (17 C Grad) bin sogar ich im Fleecesweater gelaufen, andere haben sogar ihre *puffy jackets* dabei, viele frieren! Ich hingegen finde es sehr angenehm so. Es gibt nach der Großstadt Burgos nur kleine Dörfchen zu durchwandern oder zum Übernachten. So trifft man also alle wieder, die man verloren glaubte :).En savoir plus

    Vous pouvez également connaitre ce lieu sous les noms suivants:

    Hornillos del Camino, 09230

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