Hiszpania
Ledigos

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    • Dzień 17

      Albergue La Morena

      8 sierpnia 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

      I chose this albergue based on the reviews I found on the guide I got in the Camino Forum and gronze.com. Jan just followed me.
      We arrived a bit late, and I was a little worried that it might be full, as we didn't have a reservation (I have made very few reservations if any in the last week).
      I was very surprised to see that we were the first ones, and as of 5.45pm, the only ones here! It's possible that many pilgrims would have gone to the next village, just over 3k away.
      The albergue is small but beautiful, looks brand new, and has very thoughtful details, like privacy curtains for every bed, good quality cotton bed sheets and pillowcases (most albergues provide disposable ones), power point and reading light in every bed, and a free water bottle and piece of dark chocolate for every guest. As good as a hotel.
      There are 2 sets of normal bunk beds, where access is from the long side of the bed. All other sets are like in a box, with access on the feet end of the bed. It's a good design for space saving, but my opinion of the place wouldn't be the same if I had to sleep in one of those.
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    • Dzień 26

      Compostela (and dinner)

      27 czerwca 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

      My sister Karen asked a great question, “What is a compostela?”

      Essentially it is a diploma for walking at least 100km of the Camino. While walking, we have a “pilgrim passport” which we get stamped every night and at any other significant sites (churches, restaurants, museums, etc.). I’ve posted a picture of my pilgrim passport in its current state.

      From Sarria on it fills up more quickly because we’re required to get two stamps each day. Most pilgrims simply get their albergue to stamp it at night and in the morning.

      A small church in Sahagun (which we should reach tomorrow) offers a “halfway” compostela for those who started in St. Jean Pied de Port, which we did. I’m not certain whether some of the taxi/bus/train rides that we have taken will disqualify us or not, but we’ll see.

      I’ve also posted a picture of dinner first course (white beans with squid) as well as Sean’s Camino friend Brandon. Sean barely touched his dinner and the albergue graciously offered him other dishes and then only charged half-price. Very kind!
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    • Dzień 18

      Welcome to Ledigos

      3 listopada 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

      Well, I did my first true double. Usually the stages on the Camino are about 20km to 25km apart and today I hoofed all the way from Frómista to Ledigos.
      44km to be exact. Ledigos is a one horse town really, but look at the video what I found.

      The hike itself was the way I like it, total solitude. Not until km 36 until I spoke with another pilgrim. Aspergers love. No real good pictures, the one where I get my double shot of Espresso and a landscape or two. Don't forget the video....

      I doubt there will be many more arrivals today, dinner is being served at 7pm.
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    • Dzień 20–21

      Carrión to Ledigos

      3 maja, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

      Another flat day on the Meseta, however unlike our march along the road yesterday, today we were met with vast open fields, some wild flowers, and a few small wooded areas here and there.

      We left Carrión this morning knowing that our first town for a pit stop was not going to be until 17k (10.5 miles) down the trail. We were thrilled come upon an adorable food truck in the middle of nowhere at about 10k! Czytaj więcej

    • Dzień 30

      Sahagun

      24 maja, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

      Day 22 Sahagun
      Rest Day

      Staying at a delightful albergue just south of Sahagun (it’s a little oasis) with a sun drenched courtyard open air bar and restaurant the only thing missing is a pool.
      As it’s a day of rest and relaxation and we are in the middle of nowhere we have no choice but to Relax.
      Bed last night was in a cubicle (about 24 in a dorm) fitted out with light charging station and blind to draw down well thought out comfortable and adds to our sleeping experiences.
      About to order a non alcoholic pina colada and enjoy a lazy afternoon.
      Upgraded to a private room tonight it just keeps getting better.
      Blue sky and rooftops that’s it for today.
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    • Dzień 27

      Leaving Ledigos

      28 czerwca 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

      Bunch of pics from Ledigos this morning on our way to Sahagun. Typical breakfast (less the coffee for Sean), church, bridge, non-typical portal, a fence made of railroad tracks, close-ups of us at the portal, and a pilgrim statue.

      In addition, another 360 morning view.

      It was a relatively short and easy walk today. Only 13 miles as we wanted to spend time with friends in Sahagun, and fairly cool to start out—especially compared to typical June weather in the meseta (this flat stretch of the Camino). And very little hills!
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    • Dzień 22

      Day 19 - Feelin’ hot, hot, hot

      4 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

      “An early-morning walk is a blessing for the whole day.” – Henry David Thoreau

      Day 19 - Carrión de Los Condes to Ledigos - 23.4 km - approx 6.5 hrs

      So excited to be walking with Nancy and family again today. We all have pretty much the same pace - except Louie who often runs ahead. Yes, runs. Guess that’s a bit easier when you are 16, rather than 57!

      From Carrión de Los Condes, it was a 17.3 km trek to Calzadilla de la Cueza and then a further 6.1 km to our destination in Ledigos. As the day was going to get hot we left in the dark at 7am to get a jump on the day.

      After we were out of the town, I was able to put my new headlamp to good use, for another hour or so. The trail was easy walking and the company made the kms go quickly. We stopped for 10 mins at a little lay-by that was created for pilgrims, and sat first with Carolyn who was in front of us, and then Jenny, who had been behind us. As we were ready to leave, along comes Linda! It was good to see her as I have not seen her for over a week. As we started off again, we came to a food truck about 5 minutes further on, at the 7km mark. It was now light but still chilly and we stopped for breakfast and a hot drink. Linda joined us for a while, but started off before us, on the way to Calzadilla de la Cueza. We passed her shortly after leaving and I haven’t seen her since. I’ve actually been a bit worried about her and hope she’s doing ok.

      Still another 10km to go, on the never-ending road. Seriously, the view did not change one iota until just before Calzadilla de Los Cueza, when there was a slight rise, then the town was laid out before us. Carolyn, Jenny and Linda were all staying in town but we were still continuing to Ledigos. We stopped for at least an hour at the local bar in Calzadilla, for cold drinks. Much needed as the heat was getting really intense in the last 3km and we were all parched. While there, I ran Into Bill and Rip from day 2. I had also seen them in town last night as they were scoping out food options.

      It was a true struggle to get moving again as it was now around 1:30 pm and the heat was still intense. The thought of another 6+ km was not appealing in the least. But, we got our packs on and hit the road. Zig zagging through town as we followed the arrows. Pretty sure they just wanted to take up past every bar in town… as they do.

      The trail to Ledigos was not as nice as the previous 17+km. Lots of stones and potential ankle twist opportunities, but we managed it. Nancy started having some issues and had a couple of stops to add some wool cushioning. I was getting a bit of heel burn but it was easy enough to walk through. Ankle was doing ok, so we pushed ahead. My walking companions were great company today. If not for them, I likely would have taxied those last 7 km lol! As it was, we made it to town just after 3pm and I am a little in love with the Albergue!! Great location, covered patio and awesome private beds in the dorm. Real sheets, chocolate on the bed and a bottle of water! Beds are lovely individual bunks with privacy screens. Hope it’s going to be a good night.

      Rest of the afternoon was spent chilling on the patio with a bottle of Rosada and the lovely company of Nancy,Dave and Louie, again! I remembered that heel burn I had experienced, and checked my foot. I have my first Camino blister!! I feel like a real pilgrim now LOL!

      The pilgrims dinner choices were not anything I was prepared to eat hahaha. Stewed vegetables or lentils with mushrooms as the starter. No thank you. And Beef stew or fried sardines for the main. Uuummmm, big no to both. Melon or rice pudding for dessert - sure as heck wasn’t having rice pudding either! Thankfully, I was able to get a carbonara pizza. Whew. Food bullet dodged!!! Until it arrived and it was covered in chopped mushrooms!! Oh Lord. I looked like a 3 year old, picking them all off!! I shared the pizza with Dave who got the short straw on his dinner serving. And just for the record, the lentil soup with mushrooms was fabulous (Nancy let me try hers).

      All in all, a great day. Lots of walking, but we covered it in really good time, so I am happy with that. Apparently, my pace was faster than what Nancy was used to - and here I was, thinking I was holding them back. I told Nancy she should lead tomorrow, and I will follow.
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    • Dzień 21

      Ledigos to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos

      11 czerwca, Hiszpania ⋅ 🌙 5 °C

      Anticipating a long day we got up at 5.15 and were on the road by 6. But it was soo cold!! 3c when we left and by the time we had walked about 5k to Moratinos my hands were so painful I had to stop for a coffee where we could sit inside. Hostal Moratinos was very welcoming, warm with great coffee and I managed to carry my cup to the table without dropping it despite frozen hands. Met Keith from New York there also suffering from the cold and sore feet - his size 52 (!) shoes were rubbing. Not sure where he will make it to tonight but he was moving slowly.
      Left Moratinos feeling a bit more human and the temperature gradually began to rise. Finally got to Sahagun, the official half way point of the Frances, at about 9.45. There found the cafe which I remembered from last year that has wholemeal croissants. Ordered two this year (with coffee total of €5) - absolutely delicious. Met up with Nick and Paul there. We will now not see them until we get to Leon as we are going the route less travelled and they are going the road route and will get there a day earlier.
      In Sahagun we went up to the Santuario de la Peregrina where you can get a certificate that is supposed to be for getting half way but Cress says isn’t really! Got it anyway as it’s a nice certificate and a lovely place to spend a little bit of time. Sahagun would be worth a stop at some point as there are some interesting buildings.
      Then on, and on, and on to the Via Trajana and Calzadilla. It’s a lonely and beautiful route but with little shade and nowhere really to stop tho we had bought stuff for lunch.
      Arrived in Calzadilla around 2 and found David still at our Albergue, where he had stayed last night. He’s having a rest day - much needed after a 32k walk from Ledigos. Our rest day will be in Leon after, hopefully, a river swim in Mansilla tomorrow.
      Have done the usual washing and now charging phone up while writing this and watching it dry! All good on the camino and quite surprised that I don’t feel worse after the 32 k with a ridiculously heavy pack. Planning to send some stuff forward from Leon!
      Dinner with Cress and David - delicious and ended with melon so perfect. This is a good place to stay and they seemed pleased that I had come back a second time.
      NB watch the video with the sound turned up - it’s a nightingale singing!
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    • Dzień 19

      Erappe 16 - Sahagún und El Burgo Ranero

      30 września 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

      Nach einer angenehmen Nacht in unserem Schlafsaal, gab es gegen 8 Uhr noch Frühstück.
      Der Weg begann, wie gestern beendet, sehr eintönig.
      Kaum Abwechslung in der Landschaft, staubige und sehr lange Wege an Feldrainen, als auch entlang von Straßen.
      Etappenziele haben heute bei mir keine Rolle gespielt. Mir ging es nur darum: raus aus dieser unspektakulären und eintönigen Landschaft.
      Gefreut habe ich mich auf Sahagún. Ich kann nicht sagen warum, aber es ist die Hälfte des Weges bis Santiago de Compostela.
      Um so mehr war ich von dieser Stadt enttäuscht. Viele kleinere Städte vorher haben mich mehr in ihren Bann gezogen als Sahagún. Ich wollte nur wieder weg. Manchmal ist es einfach so.
      In Sahagún habe ich mir in der Stadtinformation meine Halb-Compostela-Urkunde abgeholt. Die Gefühle, diese Urkunde in den Händen zu halten kann ich nicht beschreiben. Gefragt habe ich mich - wie soll das dann in Santiago de Compostela werden???
      Nach kurzem Aufenthalt ging es in der Eintönigkeit weiter Richtung Leon.
      Heute hat mir eine innere Stimme immer wieder gesagt - geh weiter, geh weiter.
      Bin so bis El Burgo Ranero gekommen.
      Hier ging die "Jagd" auf eine Unterkunft los.
      Hatte Glück und habe in einer privaten Alberque das letzte Bett bekommen.
      In der Herberge wohnen neben mir zwei Nürnberger. Durch sie bin ich noch in den Genuss eines Zimmers in Leon gekommen, leider erst ab Sonntag bis Dienstag. Deshalb kann ich die Etappe bis Leon gemächlich angehen.
      Diese 37 km teile ich mir auf zwei Tage auf. Heute waren es erneut ca. 45 km.
      Fazit des Tages: auch wenn es einmal trübe aussieht, kommt von irgendwo ein Lichtlein her.
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    • Dzień 23

      Terradillos to Bercianos

      8 września 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ 🌙 61 °F

      Left for Bercianos at approximately 8 AM. 25 km's. Passed through Sahagun

      ceremoniously is said to be the halfway point. Thank goodness for real time. I am way past half. The albergue is run by the church. Very tight but very clean 4 bunk rooms. Visited the church. Walked past a car, the model name was Zoe... Will send the picture to my granddaughter. Met a young African living in Spain. Originally from Cameroon. He and I had made eye contact a few times in the past. He was so happy each time he saw me. He asked me my name and would clap, showing appreciation. What was so remarkable is that he slept on a sleeping mat next to the trails each night. At the stop, where we took the photos, he asked if I wanted a short video. He gave me a small stone. He was collecting rocks along the way. Very nice young man. Czytaj więcej

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