Spain
Los Arcos

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    • Day 6

      Villatuerta

      July 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      I spent last night at albergue Etxeurdina, in Villatuerta. I ended up there by mistake, but turned out to be great.

      This is a small village and not many walkers stop here. Most would continue to Estella, a larger town 6k up. I meant to book 'Albergue Villatuerta', a.k.a. 'Casa Magica'. When I Googled 'Albergue Villatuerta' I clicked on the top result and booked without paying too much attention. Then I realised it wasn't the one I had recommendations for. Oops!

      I went back to Google to compare, as I could still change the booking. But I found out that Casa Magica is closed, and Etxeurdina is a very new albergue, only opened last year, that's why it's not well known. The reviews on the website were about as good as those I had read for Casa Magica, so I kept the booking with the confidence that it was a good choice.

      And it was! For starters, I almost had the whole place to myself, except that a pilgrim without booking turned up at the last minute. But hey, sharing with one only is a great deal. The place was nice and quiet, and I slept very well.

      Jordi, the host, was super friendly and helpful. He suggested an alternative route for today's walk, which was in fact the original Way, but these days few people know about. He reckons this way is more enjoyable, all through nature with good shade until a village halfway to my destination, and passing by the ruins of Zaraputz.

      If anyone reading this ever walks the Camino, take note, I highly recommend this place.
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    • Day 6

      Interesting albergue

      July 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

      The albergue I had a recommendation for was full, and Jordi suggested Casa de Austria. Here I am.

      It doesn't have the modern facilities I have enjoyed so far, but it's charming in its own way. It's a huge house, and very old. It's full of quirky details and there's more of a community atmosphere. See the rollers to squeeze water out of hand-washed clothes! They offer a massage service, right in the main living area. Someone used it, and they put a curtain around the massage table.

      This is the kind of place where the ratio of showers to guests is low, and I am so glad I have sandals.

      Initially they were giving me a top bunk in an already crowded room. I asked if they had any bottom bunks left, and they led me to an empty room upstairs. I could choose any bed! Now, a few more people have arrived and it's about half full, but I have the best bed 😏
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    • Day 6

      5 cents

      July 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      I went for a walk around to get some food. I bought a snack (nuts with cranberries) and dinner (cooked lentils with vegetables) from a small supermarket, and then went to the bakery to get something for tomorrow's breakfast.

      They were artisan bakers, the kind I was hoping to find everywhere (see my 'Adjusting' footprint), and I bought a few yummy things.

      I paid cash, trying to offload as many as possible of the coins I was carrying (they're heavy!), and it seemed like I was short by 5 cents. Angela, the shop owner, said not to worry. But I kept reaching into my bumbag and found another 10 cents, which I handed in. I didn't want the change, but Angela insisted that I must take it, because... the 5 cent coin has the image of the Santiago Cathedral! She even chose a shiny one for me. It was a very sweet gesture that I couldn't refuse, and the 5 cent coin is the lightest of all, I think. 🙂
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    • Day 8

      Day 8

      August 31, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      Today once again started off with a 15 - 20 min walk back to the trail before starting.. the weather is fabulous for walking at 8 am..still really warm but not sunny, probably why so many people start before that…My first climb out of Estella took me past a blacksmith’s workshop, I couldn’t resist a quick look around as he had some amazing and intricate things as well as larger stuff.. bought a tiny Camino shell to add to my rucksack.. next up was the “wine fountain “ I mean, who doesn’t want red wine at 8.30 in the morning 😳.. that said, I did decide it would be rude to pass without a taste 😂
      There was a slight variation on route choices just after here, I chose to go “up and over”rather than the slightly longer “around “ route. Glad I did as it went along some fabulous forest tracks and it was nice to be in the trees for a while as I knew there was an 11km stretch coming up that would have no shade.
      Once again I passed through wheat fields, olive groves and vineyards. The last couple of hours was walking on a really loose gravelly surface, which did become a bit uncomfortable..
      i arrived in Los Arcos in good time, so decided to chill out in the square for a bit eating my nectarines .
      A couple of Aussie guys I’d passed earlier invited me to join them a bit later when they arrived. They told me all about their Camino journey and how they were really struggling, but starting to feel like they’re getting fitter. They’re not doing the whole thing as they’re off to Tuscany in 10 days ( I’m only a lot jealous!! ) as I was leaving, they invited me to join them for dinner this evening… as nice as it would have been, I’m not prepared to walk an extra 4km to do so.. I’m actually really looking forward to eating alone tonight….
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    • Meet The Unexpected!

      September 6, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

      Today was a long day! The heat was beating down on us while we went from Los Arcos to Logroño. The final 6 km were especially rough because there were no bars or water fountains. I had 3 km left and a little old woman had her house door opened. She was selling water among other luxury items, like iced tea, and bread! She took one look at my overheated face and want to make sure they had me sit and drink water (for 1€ which I gladly paid!)
      After watching the sun come up as we walked, I saw this smoke—I thought it was smoke…it was dust! We were abruptly greeted by about a 100 sheep crossing the road to the pasture. Border Collies working the flock! It really made my morning! I walked 28 km today.
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    • Day 11

      Los Arcos

      September 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

      We tried something new today and paid $5 to have our packs forwarded ahead and just carried small packs. This made for a fast and effortless day of 13.5 miles into Los Arcos. Sherry and Bryan, who we started out with, took a leisurely speed and we had a wonderful 6 mile chat with Carol, a retired oncology nurse from North Carolina, who is now a friend for life! It is just wonderful the chats you can have while walking the Spanish countryside.

      Los Arcos looks to be a tight farming community with a great city square which should be good fun tonight. Tomorrow we are off to the city of Logroño, a 33km day.
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    • Day 13

      Los Arcos

      September 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      Bardzo piękny dzień, bez żadnych legend lub przypowieści, przynajmniej ode mnie, może Kasia coś opowie.... Było długie podejście przez około 10 km, potem zejście łagodnie do Los Arcos przez następne 10 km..po paru kilometrach zatrzymaliśmy się w winiarni Irache, gdzie ze ściany leci i woda i wino, woda chyba lepsza niż wino, ale liczy się fakt, że było wino.
      Później trafiliśmy do winnicy tzn najpierw były winogrona, później winnica, potem zamek na wzgorzu, a jaszcze później bar w wiosce, która sprzedawała wino z winnicy o tej samej nazwie co zamek. Butelki na których naklejki jeszcze były ciepłe. Cóż mogę powiedzieć . . . pycha.
      Później droga nas prowadziła przez otwarte pola, zagajniki oliwne, figowe i drzewa migdałowe, itd.
      Kasia zauważyła że pojawianie się na drodze psich kup zwiastuje bliskość osady, co okazało się bezwzględna prawdą.
      Przechodząc napotykaliśmy się na wiele krzyży upamiętniających czyjeś odejście. Ludzie w różnym wieku, dużo młodych . W miejscach w których wydawać by się mogło nic nie powinno się stać a jednak ktoś poszedł inną drogą na którą nikt nie mial wpływu. A nic nie miało się wydarzyć......kolejna refleksja na następną książkę.....
      Acha, jeszcze jedną refleksja o barmanach w Hiszpanii cokolwiek byś nie zamówił będą tak długo lać aż szybko zaczniesz mrugać wtedy przestają.
      Byliśmy w kościele Santa Maria w Los Arcos i takiego wypasionego ołtarza głównego, naw bocznych i sufitu nigdzie jeszcze wcześniej nie widziałem. Polecam😍
      The easiest but not easy walk today! Hooray! Only one time changing socks and two times taping my feet🙄. Hopefully bits a turning point for the feet! It's been a lot of proactive strategy, getting the feet ready to walk in the heat and long distance. My feet are bad to begin with.... Prone to sweating and blistering. The while feet procudere takes extra at least 30 min. It's a patience trying time for both , me and Tomek. Tom puts his shoes on while leaving and takes them off when they tell us to leave the shoes on the shelf at the albergues. I'm jealous 😉.
      Today I can truly say: I love my walking sticks! They help me tremendously! All the time, up hill, down hill , steps, rocks, flat... I use them , plus my hands don't swell anymore! Thank you Arek and Ember!😍 And I love my Hokas shoes, sooo cushioned and still very supportive! Let's hope for next days not to be harder then the last! 🤞🙏.
      Time to get up! Tomek said I need to get up 30 min earlier to do my feet, so we won't be too late on the road 😅🤣🥾Buen Camino ❤️
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    • Day 13

      Los Arcos by Kasia

      September 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      So far we have been blessed with the weather. The stretch from Estella to Los Arcos is less strenuous in hights but it's lacking the shade and Fuentes, very remote. In a very hot weather can be real hard. We had sun all day together with very nice cool breeze and that made the big difference. The views are unbelievable... You almost feel like you wish to stop... And keep looking , but you got to keep going... I need to verify my taking pictures strategy, so far I want to take a picture of everything 😁. Tomek doesn't like selfies, I have to control myself😉.
      O, and the church here is beautiful, I've never seen one so rich in detail and ornamental one. We attended the evening Saturday mass with the Pilgrims blessing ❤️.
      All the churches are beautiful in Spain...Very old, some are poorer inside some richer, but what shines through all of them is a great devotion to Saint Mary❤️. I only wish more of them would stay open during the day while the Pilgrims walk...
      More pictures from Los Arcos coming...
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    • Day 9

      Day 9: Los Arcos

      September 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

      It was a chilly 49 degrees Fahrenheit when we left Estella this morning, so we were especially appreciative of the coffees and chocolate pastries we had for breakfast in Ayegui soon after we started walking.

      A little while later, Allan picked up on the hum of an ultralight aircraft and snapped a photo of it above the trees.

      About 40 minutes later, we arrived at the Irache wine fountain, where pilgrims were lining up to sample—or more liberally partake—in the free wine that pumps from a spigot in the wall.

      After waiting our turn, I pumped enough for a good luck sip for each of us. At 9 a.m. it was about all we could contend with!

      From Irache the Camino twisted and turned until we ascended to the tiny village of Azqueta.

      Not long after, we could see the church spire in Villamayor de Monjardín and the ruins of a medieval castle on the steep peak above it.

      After Villamayor de Monjardín, verdant fields of grape laden vines broke up the yellow slopes. We sat on a rocky ledge near one to eat a light lunch of paté and bread that we’d bought at a grocery store across from our hostal last night.

      After lunch, we had about another 10 kilometers to go to reach Los Arcos. The vistas were expansive, with little shade along the way. We noticed huge stacks of baled hay in more than one field.

      When we reached Los Arcos around 2 p.m. we could hear some geese honking along the road.

      Another 8 minutes or so of walking the narrow streets and we reached tonight’s lodging: El Albergue Municipal Isaac Santiago. At 8 euros per bed, this is our most inexpensive and basic lodging so far.

      We checked in before most bunks were filled, and seized the opportunity to take hot showers and get our dirty clothes washed and dried.

      I put my name on a sheet for a full body massage (30 euros), and was told the masseuse comes around 5-ish, so I’ll be heading downstairs for that soon. After that, hopefully we can find something to eat in town.

      Today we walked about 21 1/2 kilometers. Tomorrow we’ll walk 27 kilometers to Logroño, our longest walk so far.
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    • Day 9

      Etappe 6 - Los Arcos 2

      September 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      Zu den Sehenswürdigkeiten in Los Arcos gehört die Iglesia de Santa Maria am zentralen Platz gelegen. Hier kann ich nur einige Eindrücke wiedergeben.
      Zum Abschluss des heutigen Tages fand noch eine Messe mit Segnung der Pilger statt. Auch wenn in spanisch gehalten und viele von uns Pilgern kaum oder nichts verstehen war es beeindruckend und ging unter die Haut.Read more

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    Los Arcos, 31210

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