Spain
Meis

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    • Day 22

      Combarro to Armenteira

      October 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      We stopped for brunch before the hill. Tortilla Español. This time I shared with Sharon and we still had leftovers for later. Combarro is also known for fishing and horreos.

      Then we started to climb. And climb. We went from sea level to over 450m elevation. Basically uphill for about 9 km. We had some lovely views, but it was challenging.

      We arrived at Armenteira, checked out the Monastery, then checked into the Municipal Albergue. Not fancy today.

      Tomorrow will be almost all downhill.
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    • Day 11

      Armenteira to Vilanova de Arousa

      July 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Overcast when leaving, but nice to be cool. The first part of the walk was especially beautiful through shaded paths alongside tumbling streams over mossy stones, passing ancient, disused sawmills. Streams eventually joined a wider, slower river and then the rain set in. Just mizzle at first and then more persistent. Was nice not to be in the baking sun, but was still very warm.
      Much of the walk was through vineyards, sometimes interspersed with allotments. These still bordered the river.
      Amazing little chapel at Mouzos, built by one of the inhabitants to welcome pilgrims. He was at the chapel..
      Passed through several small villages and some woodland before eventually hitting the coast again. Double checked as passed a first bridge, but it was to the Illa das Arousa. Next one crossed the harbour at Vilanova de Arousa, stopping point for the day.

      Kind Hungarian girl swapped so I could have bottom Bunk. Nice hostel.

      Time for a wander in the afternoon, so ended up visiting a museum dedicated to Ramón de Valle-Inclan, a prolific Spanish writer. This is in his grandmother's house and has a walled garden that was the basis of many of his stories.

      No luck for the boat tomorrow so booked for 7:00 Sunday morning. A day's rest, just wandering, will be good.
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    • Day 23

      Aldea Labrega

      October 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      We came up to a Spanish man who was quite excited for us to make a short detour to this special place. He even took my walking stick and drew a map in the dirt.

      It was quite a special display, a little like some fairy tale where everyone was enchanted and turned to stone.Read more

    • Day 23

      Barrantes to Vilanova de Arousa

      October 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      The first half of the day was fabulous, first on the Ruta de Piedra y Agua, then beside the Rio Umia - all on dirt trails. So lovely and mostly downhill. Also alongside many vineyards.

      But because we took our time and a lot of photos, our progress was slower than usual, so by the time we got to our destination we were knackered (Camino term).Read more

    • Day 20

      Pontevedra to Armenteira - Variante Espi

      September 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

      Tough day today. Woke up with a stupid migraine, so it took a while to get going. Finally left around 10, still feeling a little off colour, but thought we'd take it easy and see how we went. Unfortunately it wasn't a good day to start late, with a long, hilly stage and 32C forecast.
      So we got going, and took it slowly and we took an alternative route called the Variante Espiritual which veers off to the East of the other route towards the coast. It takes 3 days as opposed to 2 on the traditional route and they meet up in Padron, 25km from Santiago.
      It was a hard slog, hot and not much shade and most of the day we seemed to be going uphill, and a lot of that very steeply. We finally made it to the village at around 5:45, had a drink then had another 500m to the albergue. Then had to walk there and back to the cafe for dinner! It was supposed to be a 21km day, but 25km were clocked up on the app.
      Most of the people we have met have taken the traditional route, but we met two of the couples, one American, one Danish, at dinner, and will probably bump into them the next couple of days.
      Supposed to be an easier day tomorrow, so looking forward to that.

      p.s. at an old church we stopped at a wedding was about to start so we stayed for about half an hour to see the bride arrive.
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    • Day 15

      No end to unexpected events

      June 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      So, adventures have ensued since I last updated. Expect the unexpected, it's really the motto of the journey, but things happen that would be impossible to anticipate in normal life.

      Today alone we've climbed a mountain, been in an impromptu patio party, and I've been given the pilgrims blessing personally by a Trappist monk. Really you can't make this stuff up, no one would believe you. Unless they had been on Camino I suppose.

      Yesterday we spent the morning touring the 9th century old town of Pontevedra. First stop the Iglesia de la Virgen Peregrina, the scallop shaped chapel where we attended the service last night. A happy surprise, there we run into Miriam. She is spending a day alone after leaving Redondela walking with Beatrice and Lidia ( we finally discover the Irish girls name). And she relates, where they stopped for lunch yesterday they sat with a Korean man who pulled out his phone to show our picture and ask if anyone had seen us! Given the brotherhood status Krisli has assigned to himself and Brad, we note he is taking his fraternal duties seriously! Honestly it's heartwarming how these connections can happen. We have so much support and concern from home too, it's just incredible.

      Brad's leg is improving, at least enough for him to continue walking. It's probably not ideal and I'm sure at home he would just be resting it. But he's still unwilling to give up, especially this close.

      The rest of the day was a bit tougher walk to nearby Combarro than we expected. It was hot, lots of hills, and we arrived later than expected. To discover our accommodation was almost impossible to find, we had to phone the host, who didn't speak English, for help. Finally he sent a video for directions. The number by the door had zero relationship to the listed address, and I had about zero patience left!

      But, divested of packs, showered and fresh, we decide to go try and locate Furancho a de Pepe. And arrive just at opening time, where we are served fresh cold, not quite sparkling Albarino wine in the traditional ceramic cuncas. And proceed to enjoy a veritable feast, including a dish we ordered accidentally. Something lost in translation 😊. The place is filling up, we are surrounded by happy animated chatter. All enjoying food and wines made right here, in this modest premises, by the family. Pepe hosts and pours generously, his wife bustling in the kitchen. It's a great end to the day.

      This morning, up and at it, there's a mountain to ascend! At least this time I was counting on a steep climb of 9 to 10 km. After 5 or so though it levelled off for a while. We hopscotch the way with a family of 4 from Singapore, elderly parents and middle age "kids" like us. Walk for a way with an Aussie who's a bit faster than us and goes on ahead.

      We arrive at Armenteira so much earlier than I expected, by 11:30. For once we're early and there's nothing to see, it seems! So we find the only open cafe in town, where our Aussie is already ensconced, drinking a beer. He's waiting for his walking group to arrive, but first come the Singapore family - Singapore in the house, our Aussie calls out to greet them, and there's a bit of a group cheer. Not too much later his group arrives. Two Italian girls and one Hungarian, Irina, Katrina, and Ester. We've seen them over the last couple days too. So it's a big enough group of walkers enjoying the patio sunshine. Spontaneous, enjoyable.

      As most are moving on, we go to the nearby Mosteiro de Armenteira. This Cistercian monastery has been here since around 1162. It's modest, simple, so peaceful. After a look around, we see the monk who gives us the stamp for our credentials. He speaks English perfectly, he's also the chaplain to the nuns here. They make a lot of products in the monastery for sale, soaps, creams, medals, liqueurs. Brad can't resist buying a small bottle of eucalyptus liqueur. We're going to have to leave most of it behind, but oh well.

      And so, a couple of easy km later, we are in much more luxurious accommodations, and it's still early enough to do laundry!

      To round out a big day, we head back to the village for a late dinner, where we run into Beatrice, share dinner and an orujo, traditional Galician liquor, and are back at the hotel in time for a cappuccino sunset.

      And that eucalyptus liqueur? Smelled like a combination of mouthwash and cough syrup😅. The taste? Divine, who knew!
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    • Day 4

      Hospederia de Monasterio de Armenteira

      October 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

      I was very lucky to get a room at the monastery. Once I decided to do the variante, this was the first place I tried to reserve. How often do you get a chance to stay overnight at a 12th-century building?! The rooms are modest but very clean and have everything you need. The wifi is pretty good, and there is a cooling fan inside. The parador in pontevedra pales in comparison to what the nuns provide here. 😃 It is also fully booked, so even in the slow season, it's best to reserve.

      They have one sister who speaks English and she is the sweetest! We have been communicating through email, so when I told her my name, she lit up! She was very happy to show me around and encouraged me to attend the pilgrim's blessing (seen in photo) and the morning mass tomorrow before I leave. I will take her offer and not leave so early tomorrow. 😁
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    • Day 16

      Combarro!

      July 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

      Our Alburgue, Nuestra Señora del Camino is 23 euros a bed and is so nice! Clean, well thought out, comfortable, everything we need! We have had such good places this whole trip! The town of Combarro is a very quaint village with a marina. The old-town portion is reminiscent of Cinque Terra with its many stairs, flowered porches and restaurants right on the water. Portugal and Spain’s food portions are SO big! I can hardly ever finish!! I ordered a Spanish omelette for dinner and it was like deep dish and the size of my plate! Andrea had the sardines! 😳🫢 You may have noticed small rectangular buildings on tall pedestals, often with crosses on top… those structures were for the storage of grain and other food items to be kept dry and away from rodents!Read more

    • Day 4

      Armenteira around town

      October 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

      Walked around town after the pilgrim's blessing. Saw the pousada (this was my other choice if the monastery was not available) and took a quick glimpse inside the small cemetery.

      As I was walking back to start packing and calling it a night, I met a couple of pinays! I didn't think I'd see Filipinos on the variante, but here they are! I will try to meet with them at Vilanova tomorrow for dinner. 😊Read more

    • Day 18

      Nuts! 🌰

      September 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      We went for a walk in the forest and came back with like two kilos of wild chestnut. We also had freshly made churro halfway since there was a man selling them in front of the monastery for 1€, who could ever resist that? Ahh it's hard to not to gain weight here! 😁Read more

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