Spain
Meis

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    • Pontevedra to Combarro

      October 5 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

      Soaking rain then stinging rain. I separated from the Central Camino to the Spiritual Variant. This will eventually follow the path supposedly taken by St James’ (Sant Iago) followers when they returned his remains via boat to Spain. James went back to Jerusalem after trying to convert the folks of the Iberian peninsula. It didn’t turn out well for him in Jerusalem.

      At times the path is just wide enough for one and that’s with the brush fighting to keep your walking sticks. With the moderate rain, those narrow paths were muddy, a little slippery and the effort was finding the right next step to minimize soakage. My bladder lost it, then when I finally got to a cafe and changed out of my rain-soaked shirt, the zipper on my sweatshirt lost it. I scrambled to get a safety pin to cover some part of me and slouched through lunch.
      The hotel had laundry service, a tub, and a very good restaurant across the street. Such a blessing.

      A couple ladies from New Zealand crossed paths with me a few times. They asked what was my favorite part so far and I said the smell of eucalyptus. Makes me grin thinking of the conversation.

      Inner journey: sometimes all I can do on this trek is focus on the moment, where to step and to anchor myself with my poles, ready to stop any slide or fall.
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    • Combarro to Armentiera

      October 6 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

      The topographic map of today’s hike was very intimidating. I decided this would be the day to taxi from start to finish. Plus there were some reports of thunderstorms expected.

      I was delivered to the 12th century monastery in Armenteira and found soft respite in the chapel with a benevolent Mary statue prominent behind the altar. The suffering cross was off in some shadow. I found myself doing Ancestral Lineage healing intentions, focusing on my maternal grandmother and her mothers back through time, thinking of the disempowerment of women, the suffering through childbirth and caring for others, the crap that women have gone through over the last number of centuries. And I told them of the great possibility of a woman president and of the growing personal expression, enfranchising, and empowerment of women. I felt the anchoring of the divine feminine out of the gravel of the pain, suffering, joy and continued growth of their lives. I felt them joining with the well, healed, and fully integrated earlier ancestors. It was good.

      My hotel was up a hill and my room was fully ready for me when I arrived at noon. The bed is great and I caught a couple more hours of sleep while the rain shook by in sheets.

      At the pub, a man I met yesterday said the last 2k coming up the hill were walking through a creek, first time he felt the need for his poles and I was smart to choose alternative transportation today.
      Ah-ho!

      Inner journey: just feeling really blessed. Following my inner guidance and taking care of myself. And being reminded by my dear commenters that my journey matters to them too.
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    • Armentiera to Ponte Arnelas

      October 7 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 61 °F

      I’m deep in the Spiritual Variant of the Camino. Very few people. Lots of time to talk to myself and sing right out loud. Which I did. A lot.

      The Camino followed “The path of stone and water” starting with the Armenteira river which was roaring white water. Gushing with rain run off. The path itself was puddled, often muddy, a little slippery, and a few times squishy. There were ruins of old grain mills that diverted water to drive the millstones. The trees were like from a fairy land, mossy, falling over, creating dark arches and hiding unseen creatures.

      The day started with rain, as usual. Someone at breakfast said ”oh yeah,I remember sun”. And in a couple hours the sun did come out. Yay! I stopped to rest and rub my aching knee. Someone came by. He pointed to the darkening clouds over the eastern mountains, said something “mucho fluvio” and wiggled his fingers like in the Itsy Bitsy Spider song. I decided I’d better get a move on, sore knee or no to avoid mucho rain. Well the sun came out again (and dried up all the rain, so the itsy bitsy spider…) and I needed to slow down anyway. Maybe the forecasted rain for this evening will wash the spider out.

      Once the whitewater eased, I was in grape land again. Very few places to stop. Until I got to my hostal, not quite a hotel and not a hostel. By the time I arrived I was pooped. Muy cansado.

      Inner journey: aware of the intense power of water, sending compassion to those affected by Helene and Milton. Hurricane Kirk will impact us here. I’ll keep a weather eye. My out loud chanting became “balance,” intending the Earth to come to balance. Hopefully with grace and ease.
      Oh, and Im homesick. 😕
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    • Day 17

      Combarro

      September 17 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      We had such an amazing day today! Lots of reasons for that: we just wanted to go 11 km from Pontevedra to Combarro, so there was no pressure for time. It's been very hot here especially in the afternoons but we left early so no pressure that way. The way was beautiful and shaded and sometimes just a narrow track. I felt so grounded and tuned in, like I had hoped for the whole way.
      We got to our hostel around 11 am but they don't allow check in until 11:30. We wandered down to the waterfront and had a drink. Then we ordered octopus for lunch hahaha. It's pretty good!
      We're currently up top in the garden drinking wine and loving the breeze. Anticipating the full moon, and seeing dolphins in the bay tomorrow morning.
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    • Day 13

      Day 12 Redondela to Ponteverda

      October 3 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

      I don’t have a lot of pictures of today because I was so afraid to take my phone out of my bag. Again it’s pouring down rain, but I have an umbrella and a crappy poncho. I think I hiked 14 miles in the rain mostly uphill, but it was beautiful. Walking through Vineyards and forest. It stopped raining about an hour and a half before I arrived in Combarro where I’m staying. I have now veered off from the central route and I am on the spiritual route, which is a longer loop to get to Santiago but it’s supposed to be beautiful and so far it has been.Read more

    • Day 29

      Szenenwechsel

      April 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Nachdem ich gestern eingeschlafen bin, hat es irgendwann in der Nacht angefangen zu regnen. Dabei ist es merklich abgekühlt. Heute morgen waren es nur noch 10°C. Damit hatte ich gar nicht gerechnet, denn für heute ist ja Sonne angesagt.
      Die lässt noch auf sich warten und so ziehe ich die Jacke an und versuche den großen Strand zu erkunden. Zu meiner Überraschung ist der Weg zum Strand durch einen Flussauslauf unterbrochen und ich kann ohne nasse Füße, nicht hinüber. Ich versuche es an ein zwei Stellen, dann entscheide ich mich dafür, an einen anderen Strand zu fahren, auch wenn der Stellplatz toll ist. Inzwischen kommt die Sonne raus, der Wind ist noch frisch, das wird schon 👍
      Der nächste größere Strand, Praia de Lariño ist 15 km weg, einsam mit direktem Zugang zum Strand und so drehe ich dort meine morgendliche Runde. Tolle Wellen und der Wind spielt mit der Gicht, ich liebe es😎.
      Ein weiterer Strand lockt mich und ich mache mich auf den Weg zum Praia de Aguieira. Auf dem Weg dorthin komme ich in die Bucht zwischen Muros und Noia. Das Meer ist hier plötzlich still, die Sonne scheint und man könnte meinen, ich habe mich verfahren und bin an einem italienischen See gelandet.
      Als in Muros dann auch noch Markt ist, und viele Leute unterwegs sind, ist der Szenenwechsel perfekt. Weg vom einsamen rauen Meer, hin zum mediterranen Seeambiente. Ich finde einen Parkplatz und beschließe eine Runde zu drehen.
      Also Pulli aus, T-Shirt an, Schuhe aus, Sandalen ohne Socken an und los gehts ins Getümmel. Kein Vergleich mit den Märkten in Italien, aber trotzdem schön. Noch eine Runde durch den Ort mit seinen schmalen Gassen und weiter geht's. Das milde Klima und ruhige Meer begleitet mich die ganze Bucht lang. Hier ist plötzlich ganz deutlich Frühling. Die Bäume schlagen aus, überall frisches, saftiges Grün. Am Praia de Aguieira angekommen ist zumindest das Meer wieder etwas aktiver. Auch hier, kleiner unauffällig gelegener schöner Strand mit Holzwegen durch die Dünen, sehr schön und natürlich wieder leer. Kein offizieller Stellplatz, aber auch nicht verboten...
      Ich fahre weiter nach Boiro um die Landzunge zu verlassen. Schöner Ort mit nettem Stadtstrand, der Stellplatz liegt aber an der Uferpromenade mit reichlich Verkehr und kostet Gebühr. Überzeugt mich nicht.
      Es ist 16h, ich kann noch ein bisschen Strecke machen und suche mir einen Stellplatz in der Nähe von Pontevedra raus. Die Strecke geht über Land direkt und so bin ich in weniger als einer Stunde da. Der Stellplatz liegt direkt am Wasser, in der Nähe ist ein Fischverarbeitungsbetrieb, ein leichter Fischduft zieht noch über den Platz. Auch hier ruhiges Wasser, nette Promenade SUP Boarder auf dem Wasser und ein voller Stellplatz. Sogar ein Deutscher steht hier mit seinem Caddy und Dachzelt. Ich bleibe hier, wahrscheinlich weil es so anders ist...😀
      Habe dann die Gelegenheit genutzt und ein wenig mit ihm geredet. Arbeitet in der Kundenbetreuung und hat in Spanien überwintert. Aber in einem gemieteten Appartement. Jetzt hat er Urlaub und fährt in Ruhe zurück Auch eine interessante Joboption, wenn man von überall aus arbeiten kann.
      Aber ich kann mir nicht helfen, es ist so anders als gestern oder heute morgen, 22°, windstill, ruhiges Wasser an der Promenade. Selbst die Butter ist plötzlich weich und muss in den Kühlschrank 😀... Fehlt nur noch die Pizzeria an der Promenade.
      Krasser Wechsel einfach so von jetzt auf gleich. Bin gespannt, ob und wann sich das wieder ändert. Ich versuche es auf jeden Fall zu genießen. Der Deutsche hat sein Zelt wieder eingepackt und fährt noch weiter nach Santiago de Compostela. Die Spanier rundherum ignorieren mich, sind ziemlich laut und eigentlich gehöre ich hier nicht hin. Ich bleibe aber trotzdem, ab morgen nehme ich dann wieder andere Plätze.
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    • Day 10

      Porteverde to Armentiera

      July 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      First real feel of being really up in the mountains, definitely steeper and higher than previous days. I managed to miss the "easy to spot" beginning of the Variante Espiritual, so had to cut across country.
      Climbing through woodland and meandering around the Ria de Pontevedra there were beautiful views. Descended to the shore to find lunch at Parque de Seca. The tortilla bocadillo has so far done lunch and supper and there's a quarter left for tomorrow.
      The ascent from here was very steep in places, many rest and water intake stops needed. Looking back at the Ria de Ponteverde, confirmed that the climb was certainly getting higher. Lovely to find drinks provided for walkers at the roadside at
      Steep road eventually turned into forest track. Good to get occasional shade.
      Eventually descended vía a rocky and steep path into Armentiera. Interesting old monastery, home to a community of Cistercian nuns.
      Arrived at hostel at 18:20 and decided to rush through showering to get back to the Monastery to experience the Pilgrim Blessing followed by a quick sangria.
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    • Day 14

      CP Day 11 The Climb

      September 20 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

      Not gonna lie. Today was rough. Once we left the coast, it was all uphill for about 7k. The steepest sections were in town. I was so far forward, I thought I could almost crawl.

      I didn’t take many pics in part because I was too busy trying to stay upright and also because my phone ran out of juice.Read more

    • Day 16

      Passing through Poio

      July 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

      Today will probably be our shortest walk of the Camino. I slept in until after 7am! Luxury! 😄 Today we crossed over onto the Spiritual Variant and, for the very first time, we missed the turn!! Luckily, we recognized the error not too far down the trail! The error was due to multiple distractions at the turn off and the marker for the Spiritual Way being much more discreet! I expected much more fanfare! Stopping for lunch here in Poio… not even 2 miles from our destination of Combarro. We ordered burgers and got ham and tuna sandwiches! 🤣🤷🏻‍♀️
      Whatcha gonna do? 😆
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    • Day 20

      Day 12 - Pontevedra to Armenteira

      April 23 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

      We woke up this morning and Miquel was gone. Like he evaporated into thin air. It was weird to begin our day without him. The morning started very busy with pilgrims again all jockeying for position on the road out of Pontevedra. We were happy when we got to veer off on the Spiritual Variant route. It was a beautiful walk with very few pilgrims. Maybe that is because there was a huge climb on this route today. In fact Tom had me so nervous about it that we decided it was best to pay a transfer service to move our heavy packs for the day. He told me it was going to be the equivalent of climbing Mt. Lassen in the middle of the day. Climbing Mt. Lassen is one of my least favorite things to do. So we readied ourselves with just the essentials; hat, sunglasses, sunscreen, windbreaker, water, phone, poles, our walking credentials and headed out. We made it to an early lunch stop to fuel up for what promised to be a tough afternoon climb. But once we were out of the steep village streets and onto a wide, mostly dirt, mostly shaded road, it was awesome. About 72 degrees today with a cool light breeze. Yes it was a hill, but it was either such an easy grade or we are in amazing shape. Either way, it was a lovely climb (rough downhill) and it dumped us off right into a bar for drinks and a stroll around the Monastery grounds.

      14.5 miles today, on a not so terrifying climb. Let’s see what tomorrow brings. Only 3 days left of this adventure. 🇪🇸
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