Spain
Meis

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    • Day 20

      Day 12 - Pontevedra to Armenteira

      April 23 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

      The morning started very busy with pilgrims again all jockeying for position on the road out of Pontevedra. We were happy when we got to veer off on the Spiritual Variant route. It was a beautiful walk with very few pilgrims. Maybe that is because there was a huge climb on this route today. In fact Tom had me so nervous about it that we decided it was best to pay a transfer service to move our heavy packs for the day. He told me it was going to be the equivalent of climbing Mt. Lassen in the middle of the day. Climbing Mt. Lassen is one of my least favorite things to do. So we readied ourselves with just the essentials; hat, sunglasses, sunscreen, windbreaker, water, phone, poles, our walking credentials and headed out. We made it to an early lunch stop to fuel up for what promised to be a tough afternoon climb. But once we were out of the steep village streets and onto a wide, mostly dirt, mostly shaded road, it was awesome. About 72 degrees today with a cool light breeze. Yes it was a hill, but it was either such an easy grade or we are in amazing shape. Either way, it was a lovely climb (rough downhill) and it dumped us off right into a bar for drinks and a stroll around the Monastery grounds.

      14.5 miles today, on a not so terrifying climb. Let’s see what tomorrow brings. Only 3 days left of this adventure. 🇪🇸
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    • Day 17

      Arrived in Armenteira

      July 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

      It was another day of climbing (approx 1500ft elevation). Come to think of it, there really isn’t a day on the Camino where we are not climbing! We woke up to cloudy skies… a first on our trip! I’m not mad! The cool air is a nice change. We mostly walked along forest roads and paths with wonderful smelling minty green eucalyptus bushes. Our first stop, as is a lot of pilgrims, in Armenteira is a cafe. I ordered a coffee with cake… once again ginormous portion! 😳🤣Read more

    • Day 23

      Barrantes to Vilanova de Arousa

      October 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      The first half of the day was fabulous, first on the Ruta de Piedra y Agua, then beside the Rio Umia - all on dirt trails. So lovely and mostly downhill. Also alongside many vineyards.

      But because we took our time and a lot of photos, our progress was slower than usual, so by the time we got to our destination we were knackered (Camino term).Read more

    • Day 23

      Aldea Labrega

      October 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      We came up to a Spanish man who was quite excited for us to make a short detour to this special place. He even took my walking stick and drew a map in the dirt.

      It was quite a special display, a little like some fairy tale where everyone was enchanted and turned to stone.Read more

    • Day 11

      Armenteira to Vilanova de Arousa

      July 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Overcast when leaving, but nice to be cool. The first part of the walk was especially beautiful through shaded paths alongside tumbling streams over mossy stones, passing ancient, disused sawmills. Streams eventually joined a wider, slower river and then the rain set in. Just mizzle at first and then more persistent. Was nice not to be in the baking sun, but was still very warm.
      Much of the walk was through vineyards, sometimes interspersed with allotments. These still bordered the river.
      Amazing little chapel at Mouzos, built by one of the inhabitants to welcome pilgrims. He was at the chapel..
      Passed through several small villages and some woodland before eventually hitting the coast again. Double checked as passed a first bridge, but it was to the Illa das Arousa. Next one crossed the harbour at Vilanova de Arousa, stopping point for the day.

      Kind Hungarian girl swapped so I could have bottom Bunk. Nice hostel.

      Time for a wander in the afternoon, so ended up visiting a museum dedicated to Ramón de Valle-Inclan, a prolific Spanish writer. This is in his grandmother's house and has a walled garden that was the basis of many of his stories.

      No luck for the boat tomorrow so booked for 7:00 Sunday morning. A day's rest, just wandering, will be good.
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    • Day 22

      Combarro to Armenteira

      October 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      We stopped for brunch before the hill. Tortilla Español. This time I shared with Sharon and we still had leftovers for later. Combarro is also known for fishing and horreos.

      Then we started to climb. And climb. We went from sea level to over 450m elevation. Basically uphill for about 9 km. We had some lovely views, but it was challenging.

      We arrived at Armenteira, checked out the Monastery, then checked into the Municipal Albergue. Not fancy today.

      Tomorrow will be almost all downhill.
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    • Day 29

      Szenenwechsel

      April 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Nachdem ich gestern eingeschlafen bin, hat es irgendwann in der Nacht angefangen zu regnen. Dabei ist es merklich abgekühlt. Heute morgen waren es nur noch 10°C. Damit hatte ich gar nicht gerechnet, denn für heute ist ja Sonne angesagt.
      Die lässt noch auf sich warten und so ziehe ich die Jacke an und versuche den großen Strand zu erkunden. Zu meiner Überraschung ist der Weg zum Strand durch einen Flussauslauf unterbrochen und ich kann ohne nasse Füße, nicht hinüber. Ich versuche es an ein zwei Stellen, dann entscheide ich mich dafür, an einen anderen Strand zu fahren, auch wenn der Stellplatz toll ist. Inzwischen kommt die Sonne raus, der Wind ist noch frisch, das wird schon 👍
      Der nächste größere Strand, Praia de Lariño ist 15 km weg, einsam mit direktem Zugang zum Strand und so drehe ich dort meine morgendliche Runde. Tolle Wellen und der Wind spielt mit der Gicht, ich liebe es😎.
      Ein weiterer Strand lockt mich und ich mache mich auf den Weg zum Praia de Aguieira. Auf dem Weg dorthin komme ich in die Bucht zwischen Muros und Noia. Das Meer ist hier plötzlich still, die Sonne scheint und man könnte meinen, ich habe mich verfahren und bin an einem italienischen See gelandet.
      Als in Muros dann auch noch Markt ist, und viele Leute unterwegs sind, ist der Szenenwechsel perfekt. Weg vom einsamen rauen Meer, hin zum mediterranen Seeambiente. Ich finde einen Parkplatz und beschließe eine Runde zu drehen.
      Also Pulli aus, T-Shirt an, Schuhe aus, Sandalen ohne Socken an und los gehts ins Getümmel. Kein Vergleich mit den Märkten in Italien, aber trotzdem schön. Noch eine Runde durch den Ort mit seinen schmalen Gassen und weiter geht's. Das milde Klima und ruhige Meer begleitet mich die ganze Bucht lang. Hier ist plötzlich ganz deutlich Frühling. Die Bäume schlagen aus, überall frisches, saftiges Grün. Am Praia de Aguieira angekommen ist zumindest das Meer wieder etwas aktiver. Auch hier, kleiner unauffällig gelegener schöner Strand mit Holzwegen durch die Dünen, sehr schön und natürlich wieder leer. Kein offizieller Stellplatz, aber auch nicht verboten...
      Ich fahre weiter nach Boiro um die Landzunge zu verlassen. Schöner Ort mit nettem Stadtstrand, der Stellplatz liegt aber an der Uferpromenade mit reichlich Verkehr und kostet Gebühr. Überzeugt mich nicht.
      Es ist 16h, ich kann noch ein bisschen Strecke machen und suche mir einen Stellplatz in der Nähe von Pontevedra raus. Die Strecke geht über Land direkt und so bin ich in weniger als einer Stunde da. Der Stellplatz liegt direkt am Wasser, in der Nähe ist ein Fischverarbeitungsbetrieb, ein leichter Fischduft zieht noch über den Platz. Auch hier ruhiges Wasser, nette Promenade SUP Boarder auf dem Wasser und ein voller Stellplatz. Sogar ein Deutscher steht hier mit seinem Caddy und Dachzelt. Ich bleibe hier, wahrscheinlich weil es so anders ist...😀
      Habe dann die Gelegenheit genutzt und ein wenig mit ihm geredet. Arbeitet in der Kundenbetreuung und hat in Spanien überwintert. Aber in einem gemieteten Appartement. Jetzt hat er Urlaub und fährt in Ruhe zurück Auch eine interessante Joboption, wenn man von überall aus arbeiten kann.
      Aber ich kann mir nicht helfen, es ist so anders als gestern oder heute morgen, 22°, windstill, ruhiges Wasser an der Promenade. Selbst die Butter ist plötzlich weich und muss in den Kühlschrank 😀... Fehlt nur noch die Pizzeria an der Promenade.
      Krasser Wechsel einfach so von jetzt auf gleich. Bin gespannt, ob und wann sich das wieder ändert. Ich versuche es auf jeden Fall zu genießen. Der Deutsche hat sein Zelt wieder eingepackt und fährt noch weiter nach Santiago de Compostela. Die Spanier rundherum ignorieren mich, sind ziemlich laut und eigentlich gehöre ich hier nicht hin. Ich bleibe aber trotzdem, ab morgen nehme ich dann wieder andere Plätze.
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    • Day 14

      Pontevendra til Armenteira

      April 21 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      En strevsom dag, med mange høydemeter som skulle mestres, med en forventning om en flott utsikt. Med varme ettermiddager, på rundt 26 grader, er det greit å få unnagjort det meste av gåingen før det blir for varmt. Vi la derfor avsted fra Pontevedra ved 6 tiden, ut i mørke, på vår 23 km vandring til Armenteira. Vi hadde egentlig to muligheter; å følge den sentrale veien til Santiago eller ta en avstikker langs den Spirituelle veien, som er en dag lengre. Vi valgte det siste, siden den veien har en flottere natur. Med flott natur følger krevende terreng og ut av Pontevedra lot ikke bakkene vente på seg. Uten overdrivelse (vil jeg påstå); 17 km oppoverbakke, tildele meget bratt, 3 km bratt nedover og 3 km flatt terreng.
      Etter 9 km var det tid for frokost i Combarro, en vakker liten kystby ved foten av et fjellparti som vi skulle forsere - ca. 450 høydemeter. Etter frokost bar vi trøstig i veie, oppover og oppover og enda mer oppover. Til tross for strevet, ble det en flott tur, med fin utsikt og en hyggelig prat med en og annen pilegrim i pausene. Det er ikke folksomt på denne delen av leden, som mange finner for strevsom.
      Etter hvert kom vi fram til Armenteira, en mindre landsby i høyden, med to spisesteder og et større kloster. Vi stoppet for lunsj, før vi fortsatte til Albergue Armenteira, som ligger en liten km utenfor landsbyen. Senere i dag skal vi utforske klosteret, mer om det i morgen.
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    • Day 10

      Porteverde to Armentiera

      July 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      First real feel of being really up in the mountains, definitely steeper and higher than previous days. I managed to miss the "easy to spot" beginning of the Variante Espiritual, so had to cut across country.
      Climbing through woodland and meandering around the Ria de Pontevedra there were beautiful views. Descended to the shore to find lunch at Parque de Seca. The tortilla bocadillo has so far done lunch and supper and there's a quarter left for tomorrow.
      The ascent from here was very steep in places, many rest and water intake stops needed. Looking back at the Ria de Ponteverde, confirmed that the climb was certainly getting higher. Lovely to find drinks provided for walkers at the roadside at
      Steep road eventually turned into forest track. Good to get occasional shade.
      Eventually descended vía a rocky and steep path into Armentiera. Interesting old monastery, home to a community of Cistercian nuns.
      Arrived at hostel at 18:20 and decided to rush through showering to get back to the Monastery to experience the Pilgrim Blessing followed by a quick sangria.
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    • Day 23

      Camino Portuguese Day 13

      October 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      Yesterday afternoon we were watching what looked like a tractor inspection in the parking lot by the albergue. All small tractors, not like the big ones at home.

      Then we went to a Pilgrim Blessing at the Monastery. I read this story in my guidebook:

      “The Cistercian monastery was founded by a knight called Ero in the 12th century. According to a popular legend, Ero went for a walk in the woods one day and came upon a bird singing so beautifully that he fell into a trance which lasted for 300 years. The monastery was abandoned in 1837; restoration began in 1963, and in 1989 Cistercian nuns moved in.”

      The nuns we saw ranged in age from about 25 to 85. It was a nice service with the nuns singing and then saying the blessing in several languages.

      We got some more sugar packet wisdom this morning. I took a screenshot of the google translation.

      Here’s what the guide book says about today’s walk:

      “This is a stunning stage that follows the Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua (‘stone and water route’), passing 51 ancient mills and cascading falls. It then accompanies the River Umia, passing albariño grapevines and fields before reaching the Ría de Arousa and Vilanova de Arousa.
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