Spain
Nájera

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    • Day 12

      Najera

      April 3 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Oh I could stay in Najera a while. The municipal albergue is my favourite yet, managing to be both the cheapest (€6) and most communal so far.

      Albergue atmosphere naturally depends on the random alchemy of its guests but in no small way, the two Italians running this place are doing wonderful work. I'll tell you more tomorrow.

      I've walked 67km in two days. I'm weary and I'm proud.
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    • Day 12–13

      Day 9 Navarrete and 10 Najera

      April 19 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      Heading to Naverette was mainly vineyards and pavement. A somewhat easy 24km walk but our feet and legs still hurt from the daily pounding. No blisters anymore, just aching muscles.
      It's FIESTA time in Najera celebrating what else but wine....vineyards are everywhere. 5 refills for 10euro...I'm in😁 Gave ourselves a break today with only 16 km. Next few days will be tough with longer walks and higher ascents. Onwards!Read more

    • Day 12

      Pilgeretappe durch die Weinfelder der ri

      May 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Hola buenas noches. Weinfelder soweit das Auge reicht, dass war der Ausblick der heutigen Etappe von navarrete nach najera. La Rioja ist weit über die Landesgrenzen für seine Weine bekannt. Dazu kam noch eine Brise Sonnenaufgang, Vogelgezwitscher und eine duftende Flora. Man trifft permanent Pilger aus der ganzen Welt, welche sich mit einem freundlichen buen camino begrüssen und hier und da zu einem kleinen small Talk einladen. Erkenntnis des Tages: Lebe deinen Traum und träume nicht dein Leben.Read more

    • Day 17

      Azofra and Cirueña

      October 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

      We walked out of Najera up a road through a gap in the cliffs, onto a wide open rolling plateau. Vineyards and fields that had been harvested already.

      Grapes are being picked and hauled away by tractors.

      We made a coffee stop in Azofra with Inger and Bengt from Sweden.

      After Azofra, we walked almost 6 miles to Cirueña for a lunch stop at Bar Jacobeo.

      This morning's terrain was wide open country, with few trees and no shade. Right now it is 75 degrees and no clouds. We are hot and thirsty. This must be a brutal walk in July and August!
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    • Day 13

      Blues and golds

      April 4 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

      I massively over corrected the sleep in and found myself lying awake at 3.45am so I figured the sooner I finish that book the better, and got up. This was through no fault of Dave in the adjacent bunk, I'd add, he was unnecessarily apologetic about it when he realised I was gone.

      I'd have chuffed off pre-7 if I didn't want to say goodbye to Pam and Nat, two Australian women in their 60s (?) travelling separately who made space for me last night. Pam has a stress fracture in her foot, her second on her third go at this, and is heading home. She has a kind smooth face and a wicked sense of humour, and lost her husband, the love of her life, too early.

      Natalie has short hair, dyed blue on top, and from what I can tell is a bit of a rebellious nomad, spending long stretches of the year camping by motorbike. She's more outwardly staunch than Pam, scattering strong opinions on the table like cards and inviting us to read them and weep.

      I like them. I like this hostel. I leave it at 7.15am and walk into the blue, which turns gold as I crest the ridge.
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    • Day 8

      Tag 8: Logroño - Nájera

      February 27 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 5 °C

      Um 6:30 Uhr verließ ich Logroño. Zwar wusste ich, dass es heute regnen sollte, aber dass mir Regen, Wind und Kälte so dermaßen bis auf die Knochen zogen, damit hatte ich wirklich nicht gerechnet. Weiter ging es über offene Fläche und der Wind peitschte mir nur so ins Gesicht. Nachdem ich drei Stunden ein Gefühl des Aushaltens durchlebte, kam ich völlig durchgefroren in ‚Navarrete’ an.
      So flüchtete ich in die nächstbeste Unterstellmöglichkeit - die ‚Iglesia Santa Maria de la Asunción’. Überrascht von der imposanten Ausstrahlung, taute ich buchstäblich langsam wieder auf, indem ich alles anzog, was ich bei mir hatte und dabei im Kreis hüpfte.
      Plötzlich ging die Tür auf und Alex (SWE) stand vor mir, der auch in der Kirche gestrandet war. Das Lachen stand ihm ins Gesicht geschrieben.
      Gemeinsam zogen wir weiter, um ein Café aufzusuchen und uns etwas zu stärken. Denn es erwarteten uns weitere 20 km mit genau der gleichen Wetteraussicht!
      Kaum war der Kaffee geleert, brach auf einmal die Sonne durch die Wolken. Es war wie ein Wunder, denn der Wetterbericht sprach vom Gegenteil.
      Zwar wanderten wir im unfassbaren Wind, doch genau über dem Wanderweg blieb eine Gasse blauen Himmels bestehen. Es war ein unglaubliches Schauspiel um uns herum, von nicht beschreibbarer Schönheit. Alex sagte nur: „You know? Sometimes I just want to eat this view. It‘s so beautiful!“
      Mit steifen Gesichtern vor Kälte erreichten wir schließlich ‚Nájera‘, wo wir in der tollen ‚Pilgerherberge Nájera‘ plötzlich wieder auf Mike (UK) stießen. Gemeinsam öffneten wir eine Flasche des weltbekannten Rioja Weins und aßen ein zünftiges Mittag-/Abendessen aus Suppe, Baguette und spanischer Salami.
      Nun heißt es Regenerieren und Genießen…!
      Ein harter, aber toller Tag, der mir mal wieder gezeigt hat: Nach harten Momenten folgen meist wieder schöne Momente. Und die sind dann umso schöner!
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    • Day 12

      Logrono to Najera

      August 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

      Left for Najera this morning at 7 AM. Hike should be at 30 Km. There is steep climbing at two different hill locations. I stopped complaining about climb if it were perpetually flat wouldnt be as satisfying. A light rain starting out. Poncho on or off is the question of the day. Small Albergue in Najera setup like the wooden Army barracks of old. Saw several people from the past week, should I be surrprised that they remembered me? Going to bed early again. Buen Camino.Read more

    • Day 12

      Saturday 3rd June - Najera to San Doming

      June 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      We left Najera at 7 on the. Most beautiful morning. Coffee in Azofra at Bar Sevilla with tostada and they also made me a cheese sandwich for later.
      A wonderful walk in a stunning landscape and cool for a while. Weather began to heat up around 10.30 and I was very relieved to find a donativo food and drink stall by a shady area with a water fountain and benches.
      Changed my shoes for sandals for the first time which was reasonably successful although as the path was stony I did have to shake them out from time to time.
      On the bird front I heard a Rock Sparrow for the first time.
      Arrived in San Domingo at about 12.30 and immediately ran into Dave and Cherie - our clown friends from Maine - who were eating at a little bar in the square so stopped to chat with them.
      Have finally managed to solve the problem of accommodation in St Juan de Ortega where there seemed to be nothing available for Monday night. Janice was able to share details of a hostal which I have now been able to book for €15 each. Just very relieved that we will have somewhere to stay as it was looking impossible other than a terrible Alberge which everyone said to avoid.
      Explored the cathedral and learnt about the chicken legend. The cathedral has two live chickens (I have video!). The story is that a pilgrim lodged with a local family whose daughter made advances to him. When he rejected her she put a coin in his bag and then accused him of stealing. He was tried, found guilty and out to death by hanging. His parents then went on a pilgrimage to Santiago and on their way home wanted to collect his body for burial. But at this point he came back to life. When the town people approached the judge, who was eating chicken, saying that they did not know what to do with him as he was still alive, the judge said that he wasn’t any more alive than the chicken on his plate - at which point the chicken also came back to life. Sorry for the very brief and probably incoherent retelling of the story but I did enjoy the chickens in the cathedral!!
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    • Day 19

      Rain drops keep falling on my head

      September 30, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Walked my first day in the wind and rain. Learnt the Spanish word for cold - frio. It was a drizzle most of the time, just enough that stopping for a rest anywhere was a bit cold and miserable. Thankfully the weather is warming up again from tomorrow and by the middle of the week it's going to be way too hot.

      Day two after a rest day I was a bit hesitant about the 18 km. I was also out of supplies and there weren't necessarily going to be shops or cafes today. I headed out about 9.15 hoping I'd find a decent breakfast and some snacks before I left town. On the first corner I found an open cafe and scored bacon and eggs for breakfast and some supplies for the road. Last night I'd had a lovely pilgrims menu of lentil soup, stewed beef cheeks and egg custard with Robert from the US who I'd meet in the laundromat in Logrono the day before - so I was suitably well fuelled for my day out.

      I also found Andrea from the US and Geraldine from Ireland just finishing breakfast. I'd meet Geraldine in Los Arcos a few days back but Andrea and I had been chatting, passing each other and having lunch together since back before Pamplona. They headed off but my breakfast was quick and I caught up with them just a little way out of town.

      I thought I'd brave walking with them for the day and would hopefully be able to keep up. I thought a little company might help a cold wet day to be a bit cheerier and that also it might stop me from dawdling the second half of the day. It was a good decision. They are both lovely companions and while I had to walk faster, they needed to rest when I did and were a great distraction from the weather.

      We took a slight detour into the only village near our path today and had a lovely early lunch before walking through vineyard after vineyard across the countryside. We were given some lovely wine grapes to eat along the way and made it into town not long after three.

      I'm hostelling tonight but while I booked a dormitory, I've scored a room with just myself and two others. Susanna from Hungary says it's the nicest room she's had since she started so I am being thankful I can have a private room when I want and company if I feel the need.
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    • Day 17

      D13: Nájera-Santo Domingo de la Calzada

      May 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

      Mileage: 14.25 long, hot miles
      Elevation gain: 1,355 feet
      Elevation loss: 804 feet
      Weather: cool and sunny to begin, hot and sunny later with little breeze
      Total mileage: 136

      Today was another difficult but beautiful and joyful day. We had coffee and I ate a little before we left Nájera. Once we left the city it was a day of beautiful rolling fields of wheat and vineyards with mountains in the distance. We did encounter some very messy mud on the trail, and I was VERY grateful that we’ve had such great weather overall. We stopped to rest twice - once at Azofra for a breakfast feast at a cafe and then again at the top of a very long steep hill, where an enterprising young man had sodas, fruit, and other snacks available. Most welcome! We crave fruit but of course it’s heavy to carry it with us. We were very happy to arrive in Santo Domingo in the afternoon.

      1. Monasterio de Santa Maria la Real in Nájera. Like quite a few of the very old buildings we’ve seen, it’s having “emergency repairs” done. I’m so glad the government here does what it can to maintain these treasures.
      2. Each state and city has its own Camino markers. Here you also see some of the red rocks near Nájera.
      3. Our €7 feast in Azofra. Those croissants were some of the best we’ve had. They say you should never eat anything bigger than your own head; fortunately I have an giant noggin!
      4. The mud that caked everyone’s shoes and legs the rest of the day. It was a slog!
      5. - 9. More of the fantastic views that no picture can do justice.
      10. It was warm and sunny enough this afternoon that I busted out my parasol. Yes, I know it looks ridiculous, but the shade was welcome!!
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Nájera, Najera

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