Roncesvalles

There were two choices of route down from Col Lepoeder. The easier and longer route, or the shorter and much steeper path. I chose the latter because the guidebook told me that it would take me through one of the largest remaining beech forests in Europe. This tree hugger is always going to choose that path! Anyway, the author didn’t lie about the steepness or the forest. That first mile was HARD. Pole set-pole set-baby step-baby step-baby step, repeat. I was so very grateful for those poles and for shoes that fit properly! I managed not to fall even once, which was a concern. It did continue down for the remaining 1.5 miles or so, but it wasn’t nearly as difficult.

The forest, though! I’ve wanted to walk through a forest like that my whole life. So beautiful and peaceful. The tree cover is quite dense, so not much growing on the ground. The path was covered in a carpet of squishy leaves at times, which felt nice for my tired feet.

Although I would’ve liked to have stayed there forever, I was also very happy to arrive at the albergue. It was huge! It’s a former monastery that sleeps hundreds of pilgrims. The army of hospitaleros was very helpful. I showered, washed my clothes, rested, and then ate at the pilgrims’ dinner. I ate at a table with three Belgians, two French people, a German, and a Colombian. They spoke a lot of French but it was fun to watch one of the very expressive Belgian men talk. I watched enviously as the Belgian woman switched between French, English, and Spanish effortlessly. The meal was simple but provided lots of carbohydrates for the next day. I was very pleased to have a vegetarian option.

I didn’t get a picture of my bed, but it was a lower bunk, thank goodness, one of two bunk beds a cubicle. Lots of cubicles and people on the floor, so more snoring, but my Loop earplugs continue to impress.

1. I can’t help it! But these trees were a welcome distraction from the tough hike.
2. And 3. More forest
4. and 5. Buildings at Roncesvalles. You see the white dormitory building on the right in #5. I’m not sure the pic shows just how huge these buildings are.Read more