Spain
Palas de Rey

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    • Day 40 -Portomarin to Palas de Rei -26km

      October 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      I got the last bed at the albergue at the first one that I stopped at after a long hot day again. I was awake around 6am, but it was too early to get out of bed. I decided I might as well do my morning ritual (brush teeth, take medicine, fix hair etc.) so that when it was late enough, I could just get up and go. It really is a guessing game. I want to start early enough so to finish early before the sun is too hot, but then I don’t want to go too early and miss the scenery.

      I decided I would leave the hostal and go get some breakfast before I leave. I got a chocolate croissant that I ate right away but got a sandwich to go. Peggy arrived at the cafe after a large tour group of Germans so had to wait a bit for her food. I think we ended up leaving around 7:30am. We walked together for about 2/3rds of the day. I ran into Matt (guy from LA) so I walked with him until the end. It is kind of funny now. I really don’t get a chance to walk alone too much now, but I don’t mind. There are so many people on the trail, you might as well walk with someone and talk, because that is what most are doing.

      It was a long 26kms today. I was trying to get a bed before reaching here, but I knew the chances were slim, most of those in the small towns were full. I didn’t mind, as tomorrow will be a shorter day.

      I am sitting waiting for my laundry to be done. I didn’t do any washing the last couple days so there would be no hiking tomorrow if I didn’t do it. I am looking forward to not having to do the hand washing laundry soon.

      Ok, I am keeping this short. The scenery today was nothing spectacular, in fact, mostly boring, so not many photos and no video. Let’s hope tomorrow is nicer. I don’t have to leave until 8am so that will be nice.

      TTYL

      Throwback to 2009 from Julie’s Journal

      Well, saying I am in a crappy mood now about sums it up. I was fine until dinner but that was the straw that broke the camel’s back. I AM SO SICK OF GERMAN!!!!!!!!!!

      We started out in fog again today. The ground was wet so I decided to wear my poncho to start off. It soon came off when I realized there was no rain coming and I was getting hot. We hiked to Portomorin where we stopped for coffee and groceries. Seeing the old ruins in the river was kind of neat. We stopped and had lunch in Gonzar and then continued to Ligonde. It is here where things started to go down.

      The albergue in Ligonde was nice but there was nobody there and no one working there. Joerg really wanted to be with people as we were alone yesterday. I really wanted to be alone but I could tell he wanted to see people so I agreed to go one 1 km more. Well, he got his wish. We are jammed in a room with 18 beds, barely room to put bags. The showers are 2 together so you have to share the space.

      The funny thing is, I didn’t mind the room (I have had worse), but I wanted some time alone so Joerg went for a beer and I went for a walk (after my shower). I kind of felt bad leaving him alone (though he was with a couple Germans) so I eventually came back to sit with him. Well, they continued to speak German so I buried my head in my guide book. When I even asked the woman a question in English (Did she like travelling alone), she answered “yes” and then proceeded to explain in German why. Holy Crap … and I was the one who asked her the question. To top it off, she spoke perfectly good English.

      Well, it was time for dinner and they joined us so it was another hour of pure German and me staring out to space. I couldn’t take it anymore, I just had to leave when I finished my dessert. I went for a little walk, then just decided to go to bed early. So here I am at 7:30pm writing in my journal.

      Joerg I know feels bad, but in some ways I think he should. The very least he could do is try to translate some of it for me so I don’t sit there like an idiot. Next time ... I am not going to let myself get into that … when the Germans arrive I am just going to leave.

      (Excerpt from the next day in the Journal)

      Well, the evening yesterday ended very nicely. Joerg came to bed all nice and drunk so I took advantage of him just like I warned him earlier. He was asking if he was the problem and I said no and we would talk about it tomorrow. And we did talk about it. I explained that sometimes I would like to be alone, simply for the reason to be alone and nothing to do with him. I also talked about the translation thing and he apologized. He usually does do a good job but there was none at dinner.
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    • Day 39

      Palas de Rei and Boente

      October 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

      October 8-9

      Yesterday was a hard day. Physically, because we did 16 miles and mentally, because our bodies are tired and want to be done. Plus, there are way more people on the Camino because many people start at the 100k mark and also because some of the other Caminos connect here.

      Our quiet mornings are now pretty busy with newcomers who have fresh legs who speed past us at times. We have had to adjust a bit.

      So yesterday we ended in Palas de Rei tired and a tad bit grumpy - actually, quite grumpy 😂. But, a good rest and an early start this morning turned into a great day! Nika joined us after our first stop and walked with us all the way to Boente. The miles fly by when you can share them with someone. She, too, had a hard time the day before and called us her “Camino Angels” for walking with her and brightening the mood. 💕 She’s ahead of us now, but we hope to see her on the 13th in Santiago.

      Don and Maryann are a bit behind us, but they will get to Santiago on the 12th like us. 🙂

      Special Moment of the Day:

      There is a group doing the Camino called J’s Crew. The “J” stands for Jen Schuringa. Jen suffered a debilitating traumatic brain injury in a car crash 10 years ago and she is doing the Camino in her wheelchair with the help of her crew of 15 friends and family. We talked to her dad today when we noticed he was walking very slow and limping. He broke his toe, but he’s not quitting - he felt if Jen can do it in her wheelchair with her Crew then he can do it with a broken toe. ❤️ Jen and her Crew are spreading the message that not even a traumatic brain injury can permanently rob you of community, purpose, and joy. You can read more about Jen at Jenschuringa.com

      Tomorrow, we walk to Salceda. 29.28 miles to go.
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    • Day 29

      Day 25 - Palas de Rei to Castaneda

      October 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

      The last three days we have had a “word of the day”. First was “savor”, yesterday was “grind”, and today we started our word of the day with “gratitude”.

      We have been reflecting on how thankful we are to have the time and means to complete this journey. And we are most thankful for Dave and Michelle, as well as all of our friends and family, for supporting us for this last month.

      We woke up refreshed and hit the trail at 8:45am. Surprisingly there were just a few pilgrims on our walk out of town. We were geared up for rain all day but the rain stayed away for the first few kilometers and we did our usual peeling off clothes as the hills emerged.

      We rolled into the first town (see video) and we were blessed with a full breakfast and a few of our favorite pilgrims wandered in.

      We started walking after breakfast and hit our Madrid high school boys, 98 of them, and we walked most of the day with them.

      We were making great time and then it started to sprinkle and then a down-poured ensued. We were soaked and quickly pulled into a cafe in Melide. We had lovely late lunch of octopus and our favorite mixed salad and mixed veggies.

      After lunch and drying out, we realized we had a lot of kilometers to get to our Casa in Castaneda. We hit the trail and once again ran into the boys, mud, hills, and consistent on and off rain.

      At 5pm we still had 4 miles to go. The only pilgrims we saw were the boys and us. The last 2 miles were some of the steepest incline we saw all day and top 5 of the whole trip. Even the boys were huffing. Note- we did this incline with muddy, slogging socks and shoes.

      Julie had it and pulled over to put on fresh shoes she bought in León and was carrying for just this occasion.

      The Casa we booked was “off” the Camino trail 1-2 km…which we thought would not be a big deal. We booked it as they did our laundry and it was out in the country away from the crowds.

      Well, little did we know there was no trail, sidewalk or road with easy access. We attempted to talk to several townspeople with no luck and said let’s hoof it. We walked in ditches, dodged cars on a busy freeway and crossed a cornfield to reach Casa Milia at 6:40pm breaking our record for latest arrival.

      We walked in drenched, sweaty, muddy, totally exhausted. We checked into our room, which had no heat and a full bed (not double twins). Showered, put our laundry in a basket for the ladies to wash and had dinner. We were quickly asleep by 10pm.

      Today we walked 26km / 16 miles

      2 days and 50km to Santiago. Rain expected all week.

      Buen Camino!
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    • Day 17

      One step forward and another blister

      April 25 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

      After more than 250 kms on the road, we are starting to feel it. Stronger muscles, better endurance, and the blisters have arrived. Sadly, it's not a "blister in the sun" either as we were graced by the rain today as well. Only two days left, and we continue to cross paths with those we have seen on the trail before. The camaraderie is strong amongst those who have been out for a while. When we see each other, we check in and talk about our estimated arrival day in Santiago. Lydia and I have really accomplished something at a deep level during this adventure. I am so lucky to have her at my side or in front of me during this journey.Read more

    • Day 35

      Palas de Rei to Calle - part one

      April 26 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

      Two suspicions confirmed today:

      1. I can do hard things.
      2. My shoes are no longer waterproof.

      An Australian guy has been an outrageous dick to me so I'm going to bed. Maybe I'll cry! I'm feeling fragile but I know I'm just tired and these terrible last days are breaking my heart.

      Santiago is 31km away. Operation I'm-a-pilgrim-get-me-out-of-here is in full swing.

      Tell you more tomorrow.
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    • Day 34

      Portomarín to Palas de Rei

      May 5 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

      458 miles done. 42 miles left.

      Holy cow. Torrential rain for about 90% of the walk today. The trail and roads were flooded with muddy water and the runoff from cow pastures, so the stench of farm sewage was… something. Worse yet was wading through that filth and having your shoes and socks submerged in it all. When I got to my hotel, in an enclosed space, I realized I smelled like I’d been living in a barn for a week. Yuck. I ended up showering with all of my clothes and socks on and washing them by hand, though I’m going to have to find a way to sanitize my clothes somehow. This is the last forecast day of rain, so I’m looking forward to sunshine!!

      Didn’t take many photos today mostly because there wasn’t much to see other than muddy trails, me soaked and looking gross, and very green pastures.

      I did (see yesterday’s post about craving nachos) stop at a little place along the Camino and when I saw “nachos” on the menu, I caved. I had to have them. What I got was…nacho chips, with melted blue cheese (?!?!!), and a strange very red but not spicy whatsoever sauce, for 9€ (which is scandalous for what I got). It was worth a shot to hit the spot, but I’ll have to wait to fulfill that craving for when I return to Denver.

      I’ve noticed that Galacians speak VERY loudly and from some google searching, it appears I’m not alone in my observation. From having so much alone time and silence for the majority of the day, I thought I was just being oversensitive, but…no; they shout at each other as a normal tone and they get progressively louder from there the more excitable they are. If you happen to be in a restaurant where there’s a sports game on of any kind, your ears will be ringing.

      Went to a very cute Italian restaurant (I needed carbs) and it was amazing. So good. Ate all the things… meatballs, garlic bread, lasagna, & salted caramel rocky road ice cream (a bit off the “Italian dinner” theme). Vino tinto de casa was fantastic, and went back to the hotel ready for bed.

      Tomorrow is sunshine. Hopefully less muddy trails. And Santiago de Compostela is very near. As well as then seeing Bryan in Barcelona for the next part of this adventure.

      Night!
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    • Day 32

      Day 32: Portomarin a Palas de Rei

      May 31, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      A strange day.

      Beautiful walk but the first real day of rain to contend with, and a strange sense of disturbed quietness as many many hordes of pilgrims are walking the last 100km for the Compostela, so there is a renewed energy on the way. Of course, they are doing their own Camino, I am happy for them and I have no judgement. This morning I leave at six, and fall in line after a group of about 45 young Irish teenage girls walking very fast, and talking very loudly and excitedly. There is something slightly jarring about the contrast between the early morning and the level of energy from these girls, I start the day off therefore with a weird, manic energy.

      I try to overtake, but my body feels tired and sluggish. The unforgiving Galician countryside is like a wave; up and down and up and down. My energy depleting with each overtake, I stop several times along the way to recuperate.

      A slightly frenetic start is followed by a day of walking by many roads, weaving around pilgrims and by rain. I find myself lost in my thoughts often, not fully present. Not really wanting to add more volume to the already buzzing pilgrim train.

      I walk alone mostly again, aside from a small stretch with a father and daughter and with a new companion, Kevin from Germany. He wants to walk with me for moral support, as his feet are really bothering him today. I can’t help but feel like I’m not the best company today and don’t feel much like talking.

      I walk 25km without much to report.

      Some music is listened to, coffee is consumed. I arrive at the town without a reservation, and Kevin and I are turned away twice when we reach Palas de Rei. Luckily, a kind hospitalero calls forward for us and a bed is secured at the rather unpleasant ‘Buen Camino Hostel’, where Kevin and I are in a double room. Kevin is a lovely and kind, and a good conversationalist, but I find myself both physically and mentally exhausted. The rain keeps me inside today, when I really would like to be outside breathing some fresh air.

      We do share some Pulpo (octopus) which is Kevin’s first experience. It is good, but it will be better in Melide! I will be there tomorrow, and hoping the rain holds off enough to be able to sit outside. I am looking forward to it, my second to last day before Santiago.

      I’m really not sure what my overriding emotion is today, and of course the day is not over. Something tells me I will return to the hostel to relax, perhaps go out for dinner alone if I can help it, and get an early night in solitude. So, I’m checking in for the day a little early. That being said, a nice group of pilgrims are milling around the town and there is a beer to be had in good company, so maybe I will change my mind!

      Less photos today, but know it was a beautiful day - albeit a little damp, but I was lost in thought and not recording anything.

      Tomorrow Pulpo and another beautiful day, perhaps again in the rain!
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    • Day 24

      San Tirso

      June 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

      Santo Tirso has many churches dedicated to him owning to a cult like following. Saint Thyrsus is a venerated martyr who died in Phrygia after suffering many tortures. Eventually his persecutors took a saw to him, but half way through it became too heavy to manage and he was dispatched by beheading. That is why his device is the saw you see here on his right. You’d think he would be the patron saint of lumberjacks, but that is reserved for Simon the Apostle who died in a similar manner.Read more

    • Day 41

      37 Portomarin – Palas de Rei

      September 6, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Es ist keine Karawane – es ist eine Lawine. Weil: eine Karawane trägt eine Last und zieht langsam dahin. Das trifft vielleicht für die „echten“ Pilger zu. – Diese Menschenmassen kann ich eigentlich nur mit einer Lawine vergleichen. Entweder du passt dich an, oder wirst mitgerissen. Unterwegs gibt es dann ein Seitental, in das die Lawine umgelenkt wird. Eine mit einem blauen T-Shirt mit einer gelben Muschel drauf bekleidete junge Animateurin fischt die zur Lawine gehörenden „Pilger“ raus und sie werden in weiße Transporter mit der Aufschrift Xacofácil – was so viel wie Jako-leicht bedeutet – verfrachtet. Wer weiß, wo es dann hin geht. – So, und nun darf der laute Kike wieder auf den Schoß und wird milde lächelnd angeschaut.
      ~
      Es sind immer noch viele, viele Pilger unterwegs. Es geht halt auf Santiago zu. Heute Morgen bin ich im Dunkeln los. Ich hatte mir 25 km vorgenommen und es sollten wieder einige Höhe zu überwinden sein. Das Wetter war frisch und es blies ein kräftiger Wind. Dann begann es auch noch zu regnen. Doch nur kurz, ich konnte mich unterstellen und nach 10 Minuten war es vorbei.
      Die Pilgermassen sind beeindruckend. Ich glaube, ich habe immer so an die hundert Menschen in meinem Blickfeld gehabt. Die Bars sind voll. Ich muss anstehen. Aufs WC gehe ich erst gar nicht. Da stehen noch mal 20 Menschen davor. Vor einer Kapelle dasselbe. Aber nicht, weil die Traube die Kapelle bewundern möchte, sondern weil es dort einen Sello/Stempel gibt. Den brauchen wir ja für unsere Urkunde. An einer engen Stelle im Weg kommt es zu einem Stau, der sich nur allmählich auflöst.
      ~
      In Palas de Rei – ja, das habt ihr richtig geraten, das heißt: Palast des Königs – hatte ich schon vorher ein Zimmer reserviert – so konnte ich stressfrei laufen. Und erstaunlicherweise lief das Laufen richtig gut. Allerdings war ich auch fast acht Stunden unterwegs.
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    • Day 58

      Long walk to Palas de Rei

      May 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Well, it was a long walk for those that walked! 23.86 kms according to Amr. And it was as usual a beautiful day, cool to start, warmed up and now cooling off in the evening….and the walk was through more Galician countryside, undulating, no huge ups and downs but quite long, and the distinct aroma of dairy farms!

      I, on the other hand, met my Italian friend, Marilina, and we shared a taxi here at 11 am. For the first time an almost silent and unsmiling taxi driver…but he delivered us here and splitting the cost works well. So then Marilina and I had quite a while to wait - the hotels don’t do check in till 2pm, so we walked around, saw the church, found our hotels (and she managed to leave her bag in her hotel when a bag deliverer opened the door and she popped it in! We had a sandwich and OJ and finally it was time for check in. A new hotel for us, right in the centre and right on the camino (or very close) and fresh and perfect with a very helpful and friendly woman on reception who calls me Rosemarie every time I come and go…I think she was happy I did it in Spanish, and she spoke slowly and clearly and it was a good success. And she was excited when I reappeared with Amr…these personal things tend to make your day!

      So I went up to meet the walkers as I saw they were getting close, and walked a couple of kms, and we were able to guide R and R to their accommodation which was where we had formerly stayed…if you didn’t know it was hard to find, so that was good…sort of cabins just before you get to the town itself…

      So we met after a bit of downtime and they went off to the mass, and we tried to find somewhere to eat…the recommended place didn’t take reservations, but when we turned up had a wait of an hour for a table…so we found another place and had a great meal…I just had a tureen of the Caldo Gallego which is the delicious soup - cabbage, potato and white beans…so good, and it was my whole meal, instead of trying to fit in another course. Amr had pulpo, R and R shared a Spanish tortilla and we were all happy.

      Tomorrow to Melide, only 15 kms…Marilina and I meet at the bus stop to get the 9.35 bus, but she is going to Arzúa where we go to the next day…her husband is walking a long way…ours is broken into 2 days…needed after the long hard days. So I will have many hours to explore Melide as will be there by 10 am…!
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Palas de Rey, Palas del Rey, Palas de rei, 27200

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