Portomarín

Much quieter start today. Ancient road with walls on each side and trees grown into the walls. I get that twitch I get and break out my rain gear. Other pilgrims smirk and shake their heads, but in 200m a light spritzy, evanescence, just enough to wet you through hits and I hike on by as they dig out their kit. More ancient stone farm buildings. I meet an older man having a pipe while leaning on his bike. I see that he has an artificial leg, a really expensive metal one with an articulating knee joint. As I climb the steep hill, he hops on the bike charging hard and passes me. An inspiration. I link up again with Dave and Gerry Jones. Before reaching the bridge to Portomarin I face three choices. The choices are borne out on a board.: go right and stay safe, go left (the ancient way) which clearly leads to injury and death and a further route in green. I go left and where the two part are more indications of death with pictures showing a narrow steep slot canyon with no steps on the ancient middle way, I stick to the far left green route and am rewarded with life. I reach the bridge and ring the Liberty Bell, then I read the sign indicating that if I ring the bell, I am morally obligated to visit the sister city of Portomarin. Dave and Gerry wait for me on the other side. The bridge spans 500 over a fjord of water from a vast lake to the north. I arrive too early for checkin and wind up chatting with Dave and Gerry over a long 2 beer calzone lunch. Check in, shower and a machine laundry wash and dry set up in a garage in the hotel parking lot. This is the swankiest place in Portomarin a three star Parador called the Pousada de Portomarin…a nice treat. Laundry is 4€ with automatic soap, dry for 3€, the cheapest so farRead more