Real Colegiata de Santa María de Roncesvalles

As history tells it, the doors to Roncesvalles Monastery were open for Christians and pagans, rich and poor, with no distinctions. Pilgrims could have a bath and have their shoes repaired. Sick people received the best attention and were treated with best medicine and they could rest in clean and soft beds. Fast forward to now, and it seems not much has changed—except perhaps the addition of indoor plumbing and electricity. Yesterday, after battling the elements through the Pyrenees mountains, we arrived at this ancient refuge, eager to experience firsthand the storied hospitality of this legendary stop on the Camino de Santiago.

The promise of a hot shower, a soft bed, and a warm meal felt like a luxury—and in many ways, it was. The Roncesvalles Monastery, now bustling with volunteers rather than monks, offers around 420 beds and for $32 a person, we had access to sinks to hand wash our clothes, a shower, a warm dinner, a soft bed & a simple breakfast.

After a much-needed long, hot shower, we partook in the pilgrim's mass, then enjoyed a communal dinner with new friends from Ireland, Germany, Italy & Washington DC.

Sleeping in a dormitory style bed at the monastery is an experience akin to camping indoors with a chorus of nasal flutes. So. Much. Snoring. It seems that traversing over the Pyrenees in miserable weather conditions does wonders for the sinuses. 🤣But who's to complain? We were all in the same boat—or should I say, bed?

The "lights out" policy at 10 PM was strictly enforced, as was the 6 AM wake-up call, which was not just a gentle nudge but a full sensory experience. Lights flickered on, and the sound of monks singing wafted through the halls, a reminder that it was time to rise, shine, and strap on those hiking boots for another day of adventure. Although it wasn’t the most restful night that either of us had, we are grateful for the experience 🙏🏼Lue lisää