Hiszpania
Vilanova de Arousa

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    • Dzień 14

      Off to the seaside👏👏👏

      21 maja, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      After a very simple, but very nice supper of cheese and ham bocadillas, with added olive oil, then cake and jam, accompanied, of course by a bottle of the local Albariño, we settled down for the night.
      Sid, Marcel, Mouse and Mog had their own little adventure and had a go at swimming and sunbathing whilst we were eating! 🙄😂
      We were being picked up at 0730ish so made sure we were ready that evening. The owners turned up just as we were packing up, armed with a loaf of bread and lots of pre-packed croissants and cakes - how lovely of them! They asked us if we wanted a lift back to the Monastery the next morning, but we'd already asked our lovely taxi driver to pick us up, so we declined, telling them we'd walk instead. 🙄😂
      It was a good night's sleep, and the taxi turned up to take us a) back to the Monastery, and b) 7.5km further on to Os Castaños, where Julie and I would begin our walk.
      There were a few pilgrims ready for the off when we arrived in Armenteira, but Luke and Ray headed straight off and, knowing their speed, they would have left them far behind!
      Ray was determined to take the bread our hosts had left us and attached it to the back of his rucksack. Luke was thrilled, listening to it swinging to and fro for 5 hours. A true pilgrim! 😂
      As soon as we reached Os Castaños in the taxi it began raining, so we put our waterproof jackets on. This route is known as the Stone and Water route as you spend quite a lot of time walking beside a river. It was beautiful but would have been even more beautiful if the sun had been shining (we'd had to stop to put our waterproof trousers on, too, as it was raining quite heavily). A first breakfast was consumed along the way, just one of the pre-packed goodies, and Sid made a new friend 🧡
      After 6km or so, we reached Puente Arnelas, where we stopped for our second breakfast - this time, it was a tortilla bocadilla 😋😋😋. As we left the café, Luke and Ray walked across the road! They'd walked 13+km in the time it had taken us to walk 6.2km and eat breakfast 😂😂😂.
      We walked the rest of the way, about 11km, together, through small villages and past farms and lots of vines, presumably the Albariño grapes. The sun had turned up by now and it was a great walk.
      A stop for our celebratory beer, with about 4km to go, was a little previous, but it was very welcome, and a visit to a local church, where we lit a candle for Nigel, gave us a little rest before the last few kms.
      Conversation in the bar turned to buffs (the things you wear around your neck), but neither Luke nor Ray understood what I was talking about until Julie said, "buffs"! There followed quite a protracted discussion (still ongoing) about how we should pronounce the letter U in words such as buff, buffet, puff (as in pastry!🙄😂), Buffy (The Vampire Slayer) etc. It developed into the 'oo' sound as in book, look, etc. Of course, being a northerner, I'm absolutely correct in my pronunciations, but it's caused a lorra laffs!😂😂😂
      We're now in Vilanova de Arousa, in the most amazing apartment that overlooks the water, and it's from here we take another boat journey in the morning (Marcel can hardly contain his excitement 😀), this one for about 90 minutes.
      Luke and Ray have been foraging (hunter-gatherers, if you can say it correctly!) and we've enjoyed a delicious pasta pesto with chicken and salad (with wine, of course!)
      The boys can come again!
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    • Dzień 15

      Vilanova de Arousa

      5 maja, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Rain turned into sunshine! Tho very muddy, a beautiful morning on the walk of stone and water portion of the camino. The rivers are overflowing and loud, many old abandoned stone millhouses alongside. View from my window out to the sea. Czytaj więcej

    • Dzień 24

      Vilanova de Arousa to Padrón

      5 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      We received café and pastries on the boat, which was nice.

      Along the way we saw the Mussel farms, the Cruceiros, the Torres, and lots of fishermen. It was a foggy morning, with the fog clinging to the hilltops like cotton candy. Czytaj więcej

    • Dzień 24

      Camino Portuguese Day 14

      5 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      Last evening we tried to find dinner at 6:30. Restaurants here start at 8:00. This route is becoming busier for pilgrims but they are still not catering to pilgrims. We joined 2 fellows, one from Belgium and one from France, and ordered some tapas. Very tasty. Plus some local vino, which was very good.

      This morning we got an early start.

      From my guidebook:
      “There are two options for this stage: one is to take the boat along the maritime Translatio route, believed to be what the boat carrying St James’ body and his disciples sailed along in AD44. Along the way, pass mussel farms, 17 stone crosses and the ruins of Torres de Oeste, before disembarking in Pontecesures and following the Central Camino for the remaining 2.2km to Padrón. The alternative is to walk, mainly along roads and a few dirt paths for the first 19km before joining scenic riverside boardwalks by the River Ulla for 3.5km then moving inland through hamlets to reach the River Ulla again in Pontecesures.”

      We chose the boat ride. It was lovely. And so much easier! ⛴
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    • Dzień 15

      Monday- Aarmenteira to Vilanove de Arous

      17 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ 🌧 63 °F

      When I woke up from a decent night’s sleep I said to myself, “Eileen, get a grip! Of course you’re gonna get your heinie back up to that monastery and do the Camino the RIGHT way.” (Thanks for those of you encouraging me). So that’s what I did. After breakfasting on café con leche, frutas, and about a whole loaf’s worth of bread products I called a cab and headed back up the mountain. And, as per usual, my concerns were totally unfounded.
      It was an absolutely spectacular walk! All along a gurgling stream-(although it made me have to pee the whole way)- with intermittent waterfalls- it was just lovely. I took tons of pictures and the rain once again held off.
      After the path of water and stone, I started to see more and more pilgrims. We were all funneling toward Vilanova de Arousa to get on a boat to Pontecessures tomorrow so the population was more dense than usual. Had many pleasant conversations and one quite deep one with a young guy from the Czech Republic. Very interesting. He was a massage therapist from Prague and I can’t say I didn’t think about asking him if he’d like to make a few bucks while here, but then considered it may be inappropriate..
      BTW for whatever reason, the Czech Republic seems to be disproportionately represented among the pilgrims. No idea why.
      I had a little beagle companion for part of my walk today. No collar, but he looked healthy.
      Today was the last 15+ mile walk and I am beginning to feel sad that it is coming to an end. So many thoughts and feelings. And I also miss Grant and the kids and grandkids. I think that’s what is called a dialectic- two things that shouldn’t both be true but are.
      Tonight I am in an adorable little apartment just a block from the boat pier, and it has a washer and dryer! My clothes are getting a proper washing for the first time in weeks! I’m gonna smell so good!!!
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    • Dzień 16

      The Way of Stone and Water

      15 czerwca 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      A 2 km warmup walk from our hotel back to the trail sets us off onto my most anticipated segment yet of this journey.

      The Ruta de Pedra et de Agua is a magical forest walk along the Armenteira River. A happily bubbling brook to the right accompanies us along the trail which features many remnants of old water mills. All the way there is evidence of the ways water has historically been diverted towards the grinding stones. It's impressive, this ancient use of controlled energy. It's fantastically peaceful here, and we slow accordingly.

      I'm reminded of a myth I read about the nearby Armenteira Monastery. The story goes that the Abbot Ero has become mired in doubts surrounding the afterlife. To contemplate this problem, he goes walking in the forest beside the monastery. He wanders, he ponders, until a birdsong wakes him from his contemplations. He returns to the monastery only to find that 200 years have passed.

      This seems that sort of magical forest, it feels like a place outside of time. The constant murmer of water over rock is so soothing, it lulls you into almost a dreamlike state.

      I wonder, I used to admire the rock, for it's solid implacability. Now I think I rather more admire the water, which always finds a way, and lends its energy to further others goals along the way. All the while steadily, slowly, wearing down the stubborn rock.

      So easy to lapse into contemplation in this tranquil environment. But the Camino remains the Camino, we are not alone here and we come by other pilgrims. We've met Bijan and Sheila, Iranian and South African friends walking together. Sheila lives in Malta, and her eyes light up when we say not only do we know it, we got married there! Bijan is a retired neurosurgeon...we've met so many doctors on this path! He's wearing a cap with Switzerland on it, and it turns out he was hiking in the Lucerne area last year.

      We hopscotch along the rest of the trail with them, meeting up again as they leave the riverside lunch spot we're entering.

      The trail has changed after lunch, and we now are walking along grapevines bursting with the promise of a heavy harvest. Tiny green tendrils reach out to us as we pass, and I think even their delicate grip might be enough to reel me in. This part of Spain is spectacular.

      However, as the day wears on and the sun beats relentlessly down it becomes a grind. A completely unnecessary mountain is situated between us and our goal, Vilanova d'Arousa. It's over 28 degrees and late in the afternoon before this couple of sweat soaked stumbling walkers gratefully find our nights beds.

      As always, shower and change and drop the packs, and we are refreshed enough to venture out. We need to book a boat ride for tomorrow, up the inlet to Pontecesures. Accomplishing this with minimal fuss, we're off to wander when who do we see but Bea. So a beer together turns into dinner, where we are joined by the passing Bijan and Sheila!

      So a lively table spontaneously arises yet again. I can't describe the joy of this easy camaraderie that marks the Camino. People share. Their stories, their lives, themselves. It's become a most prized part of this experience for me.
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    • Dzień 8

      Our digs

      26 kwietnia 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      We got an apartment with a huge terrace on the beach because we could. Yes, it was awesome. We are basking in the sun and soaking in the luxury because we will be staying in a mixed bed dorm (albergue) in Santiago de compestela which will be the opposite of this... Czytaj więcej

    • Dzień 5

      Cuarto dia

      30 maja 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      Da Armenteira a Villanova de Arousa. Il nostro cammino è il cammino espiritual. In pochi lo percorrono. La natura ci ha fagocitati. Boschi e ruscelli ovunque disseminati da mulini antichi. Fiori bellissimi e vigneti che producono Albariño. Czytaj więcej

    • Dzień 12

      Day in Vilanova de Arousa

      15 lipca 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      As no boat available, today was planned as a rest day.. After a casual walk around the town to find breakfast. I must have asked for something incorrectly as I was served squashed and toasted croissant 😂. After a lazy breakfast and more exploring, I decided to visit the Illa de Arousa, so popped back to the hostel to reclaim my shoes. I'd misread a sign thinking it was only 1.9km to get to the island; it turned out that that was the length of the bridge! My rest day ended up as a pleasant, but longer than intended, 17km.
      It was to be a day of misunderstanding as I had been invited to join a young Danish couple for dinner, but they weren't at the restaurant I thought they had named. Ended up eating alone, nice dish of garlic prawns but very garlicky. We arrived back at the hostel around the same time and laughed about the error.
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    • Dzień 8

      Walk to coastal town Vilanova de Arousa

      26 kwietnia 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      11.5 miles in 6 hrs. Last night we feasted on manchego cheese, potato omelette and moorish skewers then this morning our hotel made pilgrim to go bags with breakfast & lunch, so we're eating pretty well right now. We traveled the rest of the way down the mountains to the seaside where we booked our pilgrim boat to Padron tomorrow. We were stopped by a woman named Debora who ushered us into a pilgrim chapel where she sang the pilgrim blessing to us with her guitar then passed out much appreciated hugs. She reiterated that the pilgrimage is a metaphor for the personal baggage we carry every day, and that it is a time to reflect & let go of the things weighing us down. Food for thought on our stroll down the mountain. We agreed that if our personal baggage truly is a metaphor for the extra weight we carry, we're solid. Our bags were well planned and we don't carry more or less than we need. I get tired just looking at other hikers bags. Looks more like penance. 🤣😲 Czytaj więcej

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