Ispanya
Villarejo de Órbigo

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    • Gün 29

      Astorga! And Less than 300 km left!

      16 Ekim 2023, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

      Today we walked to Astorga. It is a lovely town with a cathedral and a building designed by Gaudi. And, maybe most importantly, a shoe store! I sad as it was to say goodbye to my previous shoes, the soles were completely torn up. They had to be replaced.

      We had a wonderful time at our previous location. Our hosts were completely lovely. Dolores, the woman who ran the lodging facility, was so lovely. She gave us and our new friend from Chile big hugs when we left this morning. We made friends with a wonderful woman from Chile. She walks faster than us, though, so I’m not sure if I’m going to see her anymore!

      Walk today was only 15 km. It was pleasant and through countryside. We arrived in Astorga fairly early. We went to a shoe store. They had the same brand of shoes I have been wearing but not the same model. They probably gave me a blister between my big toe and second toe! So I have been doctoring the blister and I relaced the shoes. Hopefully that will solve the problem and my shoe issues will no longer be a problem.

      We went to that which was lovely. We had an audio tour. It rained on us even though it wasn’t supposed to rain once we were here in town. Of course, we were not carrying our ponchos when we were out being tourists. All of the restaurants in town are closed because today is Monday. Not Sunday, but Monday. Apparently that’s a thing too! So we and all the other pilgrims in town are at a pizza place tonight. But Pizza is a good all purpose food!

      We were looking at a map for tomorrow, and we have a steady, uphill climb going to our next location, Rabanal. We were surprised to see that the day after tomorrow is the day we go to Cruz de Ferro where are we will be leaving our rocks on the big mound where everybody else leaves that rocks! It’s actually pretty exciting to have made it more than 2/3 of the way now!

      We were very excited when we saw a mileage marker that was 369 km. Unfortunately, about 5 km later we found a mileage marker that said we had 375 km to go! I think it just goes to show you that you can’t really trust those mileage markers! According to our guide book, we have 256 km to go!
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 5

      Hospital de Orbigo

      25 Mayıs 2023, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      I planned to stay over in Hospital de Orbigo, but got to the town at 11:20 and decided to carry on to the next town. Seeing that I did not book any accommodation it is easy to change my plans. I walked over the famous bridge and the first one on my CaminoOkumaya devam et

    • Gün 28

      Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga

      19 Haziran 2023, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      After dragging myself away from Albergue Verde felt like nothing would be the same -
      And it wasn’t really.
      Howver, a lovely walk with increasingly different scenery to our days on the Meseta. More undulating and greener, with more trees and less sky. Weather was mixed, cloudy but warm and then rain as we came into Astorga.
      First coffee was at Santibañez de Valdeiglesias - advised by Cally (from Albergue Verde) that the coffee wasn’t good, unfortunately listened to another guy who said it was fine. It really wasn’t - pretty i drinkable and very expensive.
      High point of the day, apart from the Palacio Gaudi in Astorga, was the donativo rest area run by David between Santibañez and St Justo. Wonderful fruit, and all sorts of other food as well as places to rest. I satisfied my craving for watermelon and also had a banana - just what I needed at that moment. A very generous place driven by love of the Camino.
      Then continued into st Justo, where I went into a farmacia to see if they could give me something to help with my wrist - think I was bitten by something in the garden last night and it has swollen up - a bit like my shoulder did previously. The stuff they gave me in Carrion de las Condes didn’t seem to be working - this farmacia advised something else. So I’m hoping, but it’s still fairly itchy and swollen at the moment.
      Into Astorga, in the rain, over a crazy bridge!
      Astorga seems a bit run down, very quiet and a bit dull.
      Our Albergue is clean but expensive for what it is and have just paid €17 for a plate. Of rice and beans - which seemed expensive. Basically back to 1970’s UK when vegetarians got the main course less the meat rather than an actual meal. It was fine but a bit boring, even when sliced up with loads of Tabasco. And I felt slightly cheated when we had to pay the same as the people eating loads of meat! But you win some, you lose some, and last night was a privilege, as was the donativo rest stop today, so I’m very happy.
      The highlight of Astorga for me is the Gaudi Palacio. Quite astonishing and I could have happily spent hours in there. Another weirdly emotional place for me - he seems to be an architect that has the power to move in an almost religious way - the chapel within the palace filled me with awe - I would come back to Astorga just to be there again.
      Something in the palace made me think of Healah from RAK, who I haven’t heard from for ages, so I WhatsApped her and she wrote back immediately - that too was a gift and very unexpected.
      Also good was meeting the other (all new) fellow pilgrims at dinner and having a drink with Bart (we met at Albergue Verde) in one of the squares.
      Need to go to sleep now as have to be up early to get to Rabanal to ensure we get places at the Confraternity hostel.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 28

      To Hospital de Orbigo

      27 Eylül 2023, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

      September 27

      Today was a shorter day (10 miles) to Hospital de Orbigo, a place we only walked through five years ago, and a town with a fabulous medieval bridge that Alan couldn’t wait to see again.

      The bridge is one of the longest and best preserved medieval bridges in Spain and is one of the most famous landmarks along the Camino. It is known for a legendary jousting tournament.

      In the year 1434, a knight from Leon (Don Suero de Quinones) was scorned by the woman he loved. As a result, he challenged any knight who dared to pass over the bridge to a jousting battle. Knights from all over Europe took up the challenge and Don Suero successfully defended the bridge for a month until he had broken the 300 lances he had pledged to use in its defense. Thus, he retained his honor, although it doesn’t appear that the lady changed her mind. He later travelled on to Santiago to give thanks for his newly restored honor. There are indications that Cervantes may have used this story as inspiration for his character, Don Quixote.

      The Great Parts of Today

      1. The AMAZING sunrise!
      2. The birds chirping this morning
      3. Meeting Anna from Russia
      4. Alan seeing the bridge again
      5. Running into Candi as she entered town and then joining her for dinner.
      6. We have comfortable beds. 🛏️

      Tomorrow, we walk to Astorga. 🙂
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 45

      Hospital de Órbigo - quiet and eventful!

      11 Mayıs 2023, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      Today was travel day to Hospital de Órbigo, and bus booked for 3.45, so we spent the morning having last walks round León, and left the bags for transfer. That was a bit of a kerfuffle as they knew we were making our own way here, and we weren’t on the transfer list…but our vouchers said transfer and they sorted it out and delivered them…good for us, as otherwise we would have had to lug them to the bus station in León, and as it turned out, to our hotel at this end! Anyway, that’s a boring aside, but we had a quiet morning in León, still lovely weather but cold - maxed at about 16°, and quite a breeze, making it even colder…I wore all my layers, and Amr has taken over my down jacket - he hadn’t anticipated these temperatures!

      A funny thing happened when we were sitting in the plaza outside the Gaudi house in León…we were sitting in the seat, which has a statue of Gaudi sitting there, and we were beside him. Well, an Italian group with a guide suddenly surrounded us, and we realised they wanted photos (but not with us in them!) so of course we moved with our backpacks etc - by now we were checked out of the hotel - and the guide was very grateful and we were presented as peregrinos, and asked how far we walked each day, and from Australia was a great hit…we were celebrities for a minute…fun…and I found I could understand the Italian guide talking about León and the camino so much better than the Spanish guide of yesterday…my Spanish has gone so fluffy..

      We had lunch at a bar we had sighted, and it was excellent..Amr had morcilla - blood sausage mixture, a specialty of León, and I had equivalent of sashimi cod on orange and some magic sauce, both on toast and both magnificent…Amr helped me with mine, still having small amounts.

      Anyway, we set off to the bus station - it is in a state of renovation which we knew from arrival, bit chaotic, but we got our bus on time, about half an hour to here. This was walking that Amr was missing, but actually quite boring, especially leaving León through endless industrial areas and suburbs, then even the countryside was not cultivated much or interesting, so I didn’t feel too bad. Tomorrow he will stride out and can have his full dose of exercise!!

      The bus driver knew we were going to Hospital de Órbigo (not its final destination) and when he said this was our stop we got out in bewilderment! Walking in we have always come from the countryside and walked over the very long bridge to our hotel - on the camino. We found ourselves in a village, rather desolate, no sign of river or bridge…Amr turned on Google and we found it was a fairly short walk to the hotel, so we followed directions, through little streets, all shuttered, very little sign of life, till it said your hotel is very close, and there it was - we approached from the opposite direction - the bridge isn’t a vehicle bridge - and at first we’re totally disoriented…but there was the bridge, and we settled in, our bags were here! Phew.

      We had a walk over the bridge, just for the sake of it , and a bit of a wander, but this town has nothing really to offer sightseeing wise, so we are now showered, done our washing and relaxing in the bar - Amr with a vino Tinto, and I have a “limonada” which looks and tastes like sangria! Dinner in about half an hour.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 34

      Hospital de Orbigo

      3 Ekim 2022, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      Day 30 - Walked 35 kms today from Leon to the town of Hospital de Orbigo. It was a brutal walk - almost all the way on the sidewalk along a highway. My knees were shot by the time I reached this place. It was a warm afternoon and I was out of water. At the outskirts of town I fell upon the water fountain. Aaaahhh!
      Being me, I signed up for a ‘free’ historical guided tour of Hospital de Orbigo . This very cute 20 something explained the story of the knight who had to charge with his lance and break 300 lances of challengers in order to win his lady love. This event was staged on the bridge leading into town.
      The town is very pretty and I stayed in a cute Albergue. I met a humanitarian nurse, Brenda, who walked to Astorga with me.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 27

      Day 26, Mazarife to Hospital de Orbigo

      18 Haziran 2023, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      Today life really felt like a bowl of cherries! Or a hatful - picked by our fellow pilgrims in the garden of our lovely albergue. On the Camino people are always saying it’s about the journey, not the destination. However, today it really was the destination which made this day so very special.
      We arrived at our albergue and were greeted with a cup of delicious herbal tea (the herbs grown in the garden). Lunch involved a lot of ladder-climbing in pursuit of the ripest cherries and was a social, happy affair. Fiona and I had bought gazpacho and were eating it when our fellow pilgrims joined us, shared our crisps and provided hatfuls of cherries.
      Later in the afternoon a fellow guest led an hour- long yoga session (with a little help from Fiona). And before dinner we were treated to a ‘sound bath’ held in honour of the founder of the albergue who died a year ago tomorrow. It’s hard to describe what this was - we lay on the floor while someone played Tibetan sound bowls. It may sound strange but it was deeply serene and meditative and felt like another significant spiritual moment on this pilgrimage. Afterwards, he offered to play the bowls on Fiona. I know this sounds stranger still, but a few of us volunteered to experience it too and it was really affecting to feel the music resonate through you.
      Next up was the most wonderful vegetarian meal in the garden polished off with cherry cake. One of the special things about this place is that it is a donativo - you only pay what you can afford for the food. The accommodation cost 13 euros. At the end of the meal the cook talked about the founder and how the three of them who worked with him had set up an association to continue his vision of looking after pilgrims after his death. She cried and was comforted by a lovely German woman called Ramona who had visited in 2016 and remembered him.

      Earlier in the day we had met Ramona, who we’d bumped into a couple of weeks ago and she said she’d had a couple of difficult days, had wanted to return to Albergue Verde today but they were full. When we arrived I asked if there might be a spare bed and they said they had one bed left so I sent her a WhatsApp and reserved it for her. She was delighted and very sweetly, said that we had been her Camino gift today. It was nothing at our end but very satisfying to have helped make someone happy.
      Another bonus today was being introduced to Nick, a vegan chef from Hove, who is helping out here. He shared a vegetarian map of the Camino which has set us trying to book up vegetarian places for the days we still need bookings for.
      Oh, and I have successfully walked without taping up my toes. I took the risk this morning of wearing a new pair of socks or, should I say, gloves for the feet.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 3

      Day 3

      22 Haziran 2022, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

      Landscape is changing. Definitely rolling today. But easier than expected. That may change tomorrow as we walk to Foncebadón at ~1500 M!
      Morning nice, Casa de los Dioses was a welcome sight. Found a stone for Ellie.
      Started to rain around noon and continued to rain to Murias de Rechivaldo.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 19

      Tag 18: León - Hospital de Óbrigo

      9 Mart, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

      Nach dem gestrigen Pausentag war ich heute wieder deutlich fitter. Sowohl mein Knie als auch meine Achillessehne fühlten sich normal an und so startete ich, gemeinsam mit Mike (UK) und Andreas (GER), um 6:30 Uhr in León. Andreas ist Tischler aus Berlin und läuft seit 2 Tagen mit uns.

      Eigentlich hatte ich mit den beiden abgesprochen, ab León mein eigenes „Tempo“ zu gehen, also mehr Km/Tag, als in den letzten Wochen. Die Entscheidung war Konsequenz eines seit Tagen in mir wachsenden Gefühls, mal wieder länger für mich allein sein zu wollen.
      Doch am Morgen waren Mike und Andreas „zufällig“ um die gleiche Uhrzeit wie ich startklar, obwohl ich früher als sonst aufbrechen wollte.
      So liefen wir die ersten Kilometer zusammen, auch wenn ich am liebsten alleine gelaufen wäre. Trotzdem war die Gemeinschaft der beiden nett und wir kehrten nach den ersten 20 km in einer Herberge für jeweils zwei wärmende Kaffees ein… Man, waren wir durchgefroren!

      Der Weg führte heute hauptsächlich an und auf einer wenig befahrenen Landstraße entlang. Da hatte der Wind leichtes Spiel mit uns, der Kopf dadurch eher weniger.
      Als Motivationsanker wurde für mich heute das Bergpanorama am Horizont, was uns mit seinen schneebedeckten Gipfeln schon mal einen Gruß sendete. Denn in 1-2 Tagen geht es hoch in die Berge, da freue ich mich schon wahnsinnig drauf!

      Nach insgesamt 36 km erreichten wir dann die ‚Puente de Óbrigo‘, die für mich schönste Brücke auf dem Jakobsweg! Wahnsinn, was die Römer überall in Europa gebaut haben…
      Was mich an diesem Bauwerk so fasziniert hat; die Brücke bestimmt 200m lang. Sie mündet in eine alte Handelsstraße, auf der ich geradezu die Kutschen und Rittertuniere aus vergangenen Tagen hören konnte…

      In der danebenliegenden Herberge trafen wir Simone (ITA) wieder - was eine Freude! Gemeinsam freuen wir uns jetzt auf das Pilgermahl!
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 4

      Hospita Orbigo nach Astorga

      27 Eylül 2022, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

      Nach einer guten Nacht geht es heute weiter bis nach Astorga. Im Vergleich zu gestern stehen allerdings nicht 31 KM, sondern lediglich 18 KM mit rund 250 Höhenmetern auf dem Programm. Wir wählen wieder den Weg fernab der Autostraße. Wir treffen zahlreiche Pilger aus vielen Ländern und Kontinenten. Es ist ein fröhliches Hallo verbunden mit dem Wunsch "Buen Camino". Auch auf dieser Etappe können wir uns wieder mit Früchten vom Wegesrand stärken. Überrascht werden wir von einem von Pilgern für Pilger organisierten Picknick. Es gibt Früchte, Wurst, Käse, Getränke, Kuchen, Eier und noch vieles mehr. Gegen eine kleine Spende kann sich hier jeder bedienen. Die Atmosphäre ist herzlich und es bahnen sich interessante Gespräche zwischen den Pilgern an. Das letzte Stück nach Astorga gesellt sich ein Holländer zu uns. Wir gehen dieses Teilstück gemeinsam, tauschen unserer bisherigen Erfahrungen sowie Erwartungen an den Weg aus. Ich schätze diese - wenn auch nur kurzen - Begegnungen mit anderen Pilgern sehr.

      Astorga ist eine kleine sehenswerte Stadt am Rande der Berge von León. Sie ist eine der ältesten Städte der Region, die während der Herrschaft der Römer auf der iberischen Halbinsel als Asturica Augusta bekannt war. Zu dieser Zeit war Astorga der nördlichste Endpunkt der römischen Straße Via de la Plata, die von Mérida im Süden nach Astorga führte und deren gesamte Wegstrecke von 470 KM gepflastert war. Auch wir nutzen auf unserem heutigen Weg ein Teilstück dieser alten Römerstraße und spüren so ein bisschen den Hauch der Geschichte. Unsere Straßenbauer sollten sich einmal ein Beispiel nehmen an der Nachhaltigkeit des damaligen Straßenbaus.

      Unser Hotel liegt in Sichtweite zum Palacio Episcopal (Bischofspalast). Er wurde nach den Plänen des Katalanen Antoni Gaudi errichtet und beherbergt heute das Museo de los Caminos mit Ausstellungsstücken zur Geschichte des Jakobswegs. Morgen geht es weiter nach Foncebadón. Mal sehen, was uns auf diesem Weg erwartet.
      Okumaya devam et

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