Summer Of Yes

July - December 2023
This all started as "maybe I'll ride a bike for a few days"... and the magic of "Yes"
My (1st) Round The World adventure.
Read more
  • 225footprints
  • 19countries
  • 164days
  • 1.3kphotos
  • 133videos
  • 38.5kmiles
  • 21.6kmiles
  • 724sea miles
  • 444miles
  • 284miles
  • 173sea miles
  • 140sea miles
  • 140sea miles
  • 98miles
  • 12miles
  • 4miles
  • Day 6

    Family Sunday

    July 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    The day started late, I seem to be adapting to Spanish time and slept until 9AM again. I woke to golden sunlight filling my room, which is a delicious way to start the day.

    I'll miss my comfy little City refuge.

    After some journaling and a brief yoga session, I put some earnest work into planning the next phases of my trip. I really want(ed) to do as much intra-European travel as possible via train. Trains just seem so... Civilized. Alas, my lack of making clear plans means I'm now relegated to buses and maybe planes.

    At least I have the next few days booked and the next two weeks planned pretty specifically (with some space for improvisation).

    After a delicious lunch with my family, we all headed to a local park (also a castle, because: Europe) to read, snooze, play frisbee, and plan multinational trips. It was warm in the sun, cool in the shade; perfect.

    Then at about 9PM with the sun getting lower we headed for our last meal together. Tomorrow I'll head onward to Portugal.

    I can't overstate how much I have enjoyed being here this week. It felt like sitting down to a favorite meal; familiar and nourishing. It amazes and pleases me how easily and comfortably we still get along despite three decades and thousands of miles of distance.
    I am a fortunate man.

    Spending six nights in the same bed after nearly 45 in different beds surely also contributes to my comfort... But a part of me also feels the need to get moving; to continue my journey; to embrace forward motion after a week of being inevitably focused on the past. Again, I recognize my tremendous good fortune in being able to travel onward and to keep moving. Never take your good health nor your access to resources for granted.

    On the way home from dinner, I was chatting on the phone (internet telephony is *amazing*) while I walked up a deserted pedestrian street and to my happy surprise I saw a 20€ note fluttering along in the breeze. Looking around a little I found several more... 75€ in all. Not a bad thing to find, not bad at all. The complete absence of other people made it unlikely I could return the money to its rightful owner.

    And with that, my evening comes to a close. It's only 12:15, so the city is far from asleep, but I'd like to be well-rested enough to enjoy my time in Oporto tomorrow.
    Read more

  • Day 7

    Fun Start to the Day; Bus

    July 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    I showed up on time with a pre-purchased ticket... And am told that the bus is oversold.

    Interesting.

    This is new to me. I'm trying to look at it as exciting and new: like The Love Boat ... Only it appears that they *aren't* expecting [me].

    Who knows what amazing adventure is in store, now, that I would have missed otherwise?!?

    EDIT: well I'll be darned. 10 minutes later and I'm seated on a fresh bus. I barely even lost faith.

    EDIT 2: there's someone else arguing with the driver because they want him to wait for someone who is arriving "now".... 17 minutes late for the original bus departure time... And despite his overwhelming reluctance and frustration, the driver waits. It takes about 90 seconds. The late people arrive.

    Humanity prevails.

    Sure.... 14 people lost 90 seconds. But the two who made the bus instead of not making it surely benefit more than the rest of us lose.

    I know that if the tables were turned, I'd be mighty glad that the bus waited 90 seconds.

    EDIT 3: I've got 2 seats all to myself, up front. Which I enjoy. This is going very well, so far.
    Read more

  • Day 7

    World's Prettiest Bookstore

    July 17, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    I feel like maybe it wasn't the best allocation of time and money, but I just toured an absolutely amazing bookstore: Livreria Lello.

    It wasn't until I had a book in hand that I realized: "What the heck am I thinking? I don't want a heavier backpack!" Also it's presently overflowing until I get to a post office to send a few things away.

    So I paid 5€ to tour a stunningly beautiful building and oggle some books (always time well spent). Even better, there's a gelato store next door and that was delicious.

    So far, Oporto is amazing.
    Read more

  • Day 7

    Oporto

    July 17, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    One of the troubles with travel is the constant balancing of seeing all the things and also investing sufficient time to appreciate and understand the things we see. I think I erred on the side of 'all the things' in this case and am wishing I had arranged to have more depth. Which would, of course, mean less breadth - either here or in another place before or after.

    I arrived by bus and strolled through part of the city being (re)built - cacophonous and dusty, my initial impression was not positive. When I saw a big yellow topless double-decker tour bus roll by, I was reminded of fun times in Guadalajara and decided to get a quick view of the city (breadth) along with an audiotour (depth, ish) without too kuc hiking around in the brilliant sunshine.

    I was pleasantly surprised by the inexpensive Gallery Hostel and its inviting bar, but bopped off to see the sights. Walking through the Old Town on my way to the bus tour immediately reframed my perspective!

    Oporto is a beautiful diverse city full of things and places to explore.

    Castles, rivers, wine, books, monuments, alleys, hills, cathedrals, cobblestones, highways, murals, fountains.... The list is near endless.

    The bus tour was delightful and if I had more time I'd go again (24 hr pass is 22€) to hop-on/hop-off and add depth to the more interesting sights. But I started late and there are only so many hours in the day. After the bus I stumbled upon a beautiful bookstore (see other post), gelato, and then took myself to watch a nice sunset before finding a delicious albeit slightly overpriced (Touristy) dinner of steamed clams, fresh bread, and a salmon/avocado salad. The red wine I had was excellent.

    I can't quite figure out the timing here- places seem to open fairly late, like Spain, but close earlier than I expected.... Which was good as I could use the rest.

    After an ample and tasty breakfast I spent 40 minutes running (almost literally) around town trying to time the hop-on bus. A brisk morning walk through awakening city streets, invigorating! Then I jumped on bus tour #2 - 'beaches and castles'... Which felt less historic but was scenic and the cool sea breeze reminds me of home. The tour wrapped up at the Cathedral and I did a speed-tour of same, marveling at the tiles and the views, recoiling from the ostentatious display of 'treasures'.

    In 24 hours I didn't even scratch the surface.
    I'm clear that I'd like to come back for more.
    Read more

  • Day 8

    Until later, Oporto

    July 18, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    I liked Oporto so much that I tried to last-minute extend my stay, but there were just too many things....

    And that's the hardest part of travel for me. Previously I have often traveled by car and could make on-the-fly adjustments with relative ease. Most recently, I just figured it out day by day.

    Now I'm coordinating multi-modal international travel and accommodation via cell phone while underway and... It isn't working very smoothly. The results have been ok. I'm excited about next steps on my adventure, including the chance to see good friends.

    However the logistics aren't fun.

    I'll share more thoughts on that, later. Now I'm going to go play.
    Read more

  • Day 8

    Truckstop Universality

    July 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 95 °F

    Truckstops look pretty similar in Europe and the USA: same store full of processed foods, random junk, and an oddly expansive liquor aisle.

    Subtle differences exist, but.... So do they between States or even regions.

    Oh, also I think I'm back in Spain.
    Read more

  • Day 8

    Plaza Mayor, Salamanca

    July 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 79 °F

    This sort of thing just tickles my fancy so well.
    I hve no idea why these fellows are dressed as they are and playing/drinking in the square. I try not to question the gift horse.

    Also, dining in Spain at 10PM because it's too damn hot to move at 8PM...

    And enjoying excellent food and wine for less than $20 while sitting on a busy cobblestone street full of attractive, happy people, surrounded by centuries-old majestic buildings....

    Life is good.

    (And 77° / 25° at 11:30 is my kind of July)
    Read more

  • Day 10

    Mixing It Up (food pics)

    July 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Seeing as how I'm in the heart of ham country, I opted for jamon ibérico, olive oil, and tomato for breakfast; with fresh OJ and a fantastic coffee.

    I am glad I did. Chocolate bready things are still my favorite but it's important to branch out sometimes. Not walking means I really only get one breakfast now (sad, sad Steve) . Though I think Strava is telling me I strolled 13km yesterday.... Touristing is good for more than the heart and soul if we do it right.

    Speaking of heart and soul:
    I am so glad that I have been able to experience so much beauty and learn about history. Many of the stories told about wars fought, castles built, cities found... all come back to emotion. Sometimes those emotions are love often they are described as love but I suspect other motives may have been at play.

    (Edit: more food pics added. I ate a lot of yummy things)
    Read more

  • Day 10

    Salamanca Smitten

    July 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Sigh.

    So many cities to love, so little time!!

    After my one-night stand with Oporto I felt like I surely couldn't fall in love again.... Until.. Salamanca grabbed me by the heart (and sweat glands).

    The lazy crowds on hot-summer evening streets, strolling in linen and sundresses through centuries-old red tinted golden sandstone, savoring ice cream amidst countless monumental buildings that are joyfully still in use; the sounds of church bells, live music, and happy children; the sparklingly clean stone streets; and the smells and flavors of fantastic food; I found myself happily trying to do ALL THE THINGS despite knowing our affair could last only two nights.

    In the morning I devoured the history of Europe's first University City, and ran around as much as I could before the day's heat drove me first to a shady meal and eventually to a cool bed to nap off the meal. Evening brought low-light color to the red-gold of the stone. Salamanca's signature coloration comes from the centuries of oxidation of Villamayor sandstone which is naturally a blond color that shifts golden with the expression of oxides exposed to sun, water and time. ( Read more here: https://wp.me/p4Br14-4K )

    Added to that natural process, centuries of exuberant students used a combination of bull's blood, pimentón, and olive oil to paint "vitorias" - celebratory graffiti - upon graduation from their studies with a doctoral degree. The text has a typical style/symbology that has been incorporated into the street names and businesses... Giving a whimsical/historical vibe that made me smile again and again. If smiling is a problem for you, beware: Salamanca had me again and again. Your mileage might vary.

    I couldn't possibly share all the goodness.... Highlights included a very affordable 2hr walking tour, several meals worthy of repeating, world-class people gawking, kids playing in a fountain to beat the 95° (35°) heat, catching the bells and views from the Cathedral tower, meeting some wonderful people and hearing about their travels, sipping a cool beer at the favorite college bar of some close friends, a live band of bards in the Plaza, a very talented street guitarist, finding the famous frog on the facade, watching the river curl through reeds under an old roman bridge, wondering at the hauntingly beautiful sounds as they tuned the cathedral organ, and generally feeling wonderful as hot dry breezes caressed me.

    Hasta luego, Salamanca. Lo nuestro fue breve pero bonito.
    Read more

  • Day 10

    Public Transit Excitation

    July 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    The bad news: I had a 15 minute connection between trains and a late arrival. The great news?

    My 1st train of the day's late arrival was ameliorated by good fortune in that I bought the 2nd ticket at the same time, in person, and Renfe ( the train co ) therefore held train #2 to allow a smooth connection! Yes! Winning!
    Internet purchase would have been 2 tickets...and a sad overnight stay in Vitoria for me.

    Of course, train 2 was thus late arriving to San Sebastian (where I hoped to grab a snack and a beverage). This is not great news as it means I missed the Euskotren ( metro ) that I planned to grab to reach Hendaia, France with plenty of time to catch another train/metro to my destination (Biarritz).

    The good news?
    I am a good walker. I made the next metro that might take 40 min to reach the station in Hendaia and the last train to Biarritz leaves in 52 minutes. Or...tomorrow

    Exciting!
    If all goes swimmingly there is a good chance that I'll make it!

    People ask me: "Why trains? Just fly!"
    Well.... About 20% of the worldwide corporations are responsible for more than 90% of all emissions. Airlines are heavily represented in that 20%. And I like lookin out the window.

    But.... Does it help? I don't know.
    Here's a discussion w/re to investing
    https://spotify.link/6VsQ7bLRABb

    Enjoy.
    Read more