• Steve Broyles
juli – dec. 2023

Summer Of Yes

This all started as "maybe I'll ride a bike for a few days"... and the magic of "Yes"
My (1st) Round The World adventure.
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  • Marseille in 42 hours

    24 juli 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    Parting is such sweet sorrow.

    I added Marseille to my itinerary rather last-minute as I had forgotten that I have people there.

    About 8 years ago, I lived with an awesome French roommate in SF. We have sorta stayed in touch, but not nearly enough to feel comfy inviting myself for more than a quick visit. What a mistake! Marseille merits at least a week. There's a lot to see and I barely scratched the surface.

    I did enjoy a gorgeous day sunbathing* by the sea, yummy food, a late-night (early morning) DJ fueled night out, a bike ride along the water, a sunrise swim workout, sunset drinks with a view, a lot of people watching, rooftop Rose with three beautiful women, pain au chocolat, a fantastic home-cooked dinner, and some fine meanders through the streets and alleys of Marseille. All that in about 42 hours ain't bad at all!

    The best part was spending time with Perrine and Romain, and I genuinely look forward to my next visit (and theirs to me).

    One of the troubles- I often reflect- with travel is that the more places I go and people I meet... The less content I am to stagnate in a single place. It's also tricky sometimes to stay close while far away. That may be the biggest redeeming feature of social media.

    *Which includes my 1st swim in the Mediterranean Sea!
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  • Sprimutti is orange juice

    25 juli 2023, Italien ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    So far Bologna has taught me:

    Fresh OJ here is "sprimutti" which delights me.
    Pasta Bolognese is actually better in Bologna.
    Italians serve a shot of fizzy water w/coffee, and this is the way it should be.
    I looked at 2 places for chocolate croissants and .... So far that isn't Italia's strong point.
    Italian is easier for me than French, so far.

    I arrived late: RyanAir is cheap and priced appropriately. But the flight was otherwise not much notable.

    My hostel has a bullshit policy of charging an extra 10€ for check-in after 7pm. Lame. That's a 15% penalty for a pretty normal arrival of 8pm. And... If you run a lodging business, you probably shouldn't plan to work 'normal business hours.'

    But I got a shower and headed out for a meander and dinner. Bologna is/was a quick layover between plane and bus, not so much a destination for me (I'm here 12 hours overnight) but I am glad I did stop. It's fun to have some mental images of the place and I had a nice meal (albeit tourist-priced, for sure).
    I also had a delcious aperol spritz with a noodle for a straw. This is a good biodegradable solution, I prefer it vs. paper straws.

    I did find the city oddly.... Dark. The buildings just aren't illuminated like many other cities and the construction is more massive/close than some, lending a not too inviting feeling overall. I woke to overcast and the threat of rain (drops are falling now) which does little to dispell the sensation that for me, this just isn't as happy a place to visit as some ofhers have been. I guess that's normal - after a string of "I freaking love Santiago/Vigo/Oporto/Salamanca/Marseille" I was bound to be somewhere that just doesn't click as well for me. It's probably not even Bologna's fault... Just a difference of personality.
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  • Switcharoo

    25 juli 2023, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Rain and new information have me making a last second change of plans.... jumping off a bus before my destination.... And finding a train.

    I love a good dollop of chaos in my travels, apparently. And thank google for real time travel info! I am now queueing for a train in Padova instead of going to Venice. I'll see friends in Vicenza today and tour Venice tomorrow- more time there and less luggage (and less rain) are good things.

    Fun, this travel stuff. If it were more plausible, this is how I would prefer to travel: grabbing trains at whim. But.... Tickets sell out and while I have a lot of time, I don't want to spend all my time in transit.
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  • Vicenza Sunshine and Lightning

    25 juli 2023, Italien ⋅ 🌧 70 °F

    I'm so happy that I chose to add a visit to Italy, and to Vicenza in particular.

    Francesca was the exchange student who stayed with 'my' Spanish family two years prior to my stay and she returned for a brief visit while I was there.

    So we have stayed in distant touch for the last 30 years and I've enjoyed watching her life via social media and common connections.

    When I was in Vigo, I was inevitably reminded of her by location and family ties so I reached out to see if she and her husband are available for a quick visit 'on my way' to Croatia.

    "Of course!"

    And here I am! Enjoying two nights in their lovely home just barely outside the city of Vicenza. Reconnecting after so much time has been easy and nourishing. We have been speaking Italian, Spanish, and English and sometimes all three. I love it!
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  • I like Trains

    26 juli 2023, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    The ticket guy was mystified.

    "One ticket to Venice" I said in something like Italian.

    "Ok"

    "What time does it depart?"

    "9:03"

    "There is one at 8:33, no?"

    "Yes. It stops at all stations."

    "Both trains arrive Venice at the same time?"

    "Si"

    "The slow train, please."

    [He looks at me over his glasses] "okaaaaay" (you crazy foreigner)

    I figure I might as well enjoy the views vs. sitting at the station. And it saved me 20€.
    And they arrive within 5 minutes of each other.
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  • Venezia (pt 1)

    26 juli 2023, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Venice.

    From the moment I stepped out of the station I was wow'ed (see video and/or insert Owen Wilson voice)

    It is iconic. It is historic. It is water and motion and marble and sunshine. It is really freakin' crowded with tourists (like me!) I want to love it even more than I do.... And suspect that I can if I spend some time outside peak hours (and possibly with a partner- it is a romantic place, after all).

    My first inclination was to swerve off of the main (crowded) path and see if I could find a street with some breathing space. It was remarkably easy to do and I was greeted with the soft sounds of classical (Viola? Cello?) music echoing gently off of the walls around me. Perfection. My heart was full in that delicious moment of reality. (See video 2)

    I found a few thousand pretty vistas with water and colorful buildings in various states of decay - Venice looks *old*, even the homes that are still in use. I guess that's just their vibe? Whatever it is, it's an aesthetic that I find casually beautiful, comfortable, and compelling.

    After passing several, I popped into a gelateria to get my first scoop. The kind person behind the counter enthusiastically recommended the dairy-free mint chip. It was amazing! Six stars out of five.

    My path eventually rejoined the throngs at the Piazza San Marcos. The place was overflowing with beautiful young people who seemed remarkably overdressed. It took me a minute to realize that the university had a graduation ceremony that day! Fun. Seeing happy people hugging and laughing and getting absolutely shit-faced with their well dressed friends while singing college songs? 10/10 for vicarious joy.

    After a painfully overpriced coffee (to be expected in this disneylandesque setting) I queued up for an hour to see the most spectacularly over-decorated church of my experience so far. Amazing. Bought a hat, too, because: sunshine. Attentive readers may recall that I mentioned having lost nothing so far? Well.... I broke that trend on a bus along the way and donated my Camino hat to some lucky stranger.

    Basílica San Marcos is what happens when enterprising Venetians travel the world, plundering the fortunes of others and show off the results in and on (and under) an extravaganza of marble and mosaic.

    I won't bore us with all the details, it's a lot of art and architecture and religion and Wow.

    I was amazed at the bazillions of tiny little gold-leaf infused squares of glass that make the interior glow. Well played, church. Well played indeed.

    The rooftop section is only accessible if you pay extra for the 'museum' tour. I'm glad I did as the views!!! Superb.

    You'll pardon me if I re-use superlatives, I am running low. It's that kinda place.
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  • Venezia (pt 2)

    26 juli 2023, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    After the Basilica tour I meandered until I saw a handful of happy gondoliers grabbing food and drink at a tiny little cafe, perfetto!
    I'm sure that truly excellent cuisine was available nearby at a steep premium, but I was in the mood to try something more blue-collar, or in this case: horizontally striped tshirt collar.

    The lady behind the counter was friendly and happily conversed with me in my tragic Italian as well as fluent Spanish and English. I overheard her speaking French with someone else. She makes good, quick/easy sandwiches and sells draft beer and while it was still priced high for what it was, it was tasty and affordable and I didn't overeat (for once in this country).

    The best part was watching the gondoliers banter and laugh and play. Happiness is infectious.

    Without an agenda I set off again to get lost, and meandered upon a little tour office selling gondola rides for under 30€. I got a little more info and was told it would be a 50 minute tour with a 20-min walking portion before the boat. Ok!

    While the 'tour' turned out to be much less than 20 min and pretty much just walking to the gondolas, it was still a great decision. First: because I got to ride in a gondola! In Venice! In Summertime!

    We floated through canals, some nearly deserted, some the heavily trafficked Gran Canal, with no roads in sight occasionally. We saw and heard other gondolas pass by with guitar or accordion music.

    It was brief but delightful.

    Secondly: while waiting for the 'tour' to begin I had the pleasure of meeting Noy, from Tel Aviv and enjoyed her company for the next few hours as we learned about each other and our travels and perspectives. I've been very happy to travel alone, but it's undeniably a richer experience when we get to look through someone else's eyes. Also... "Wow! Look at that!" Just means more when you aren't just talking to yourself. Even getting pooped upon by a seagull is a whole lot funnier when someone else laughs with you, trust me.

    Case in point: I told Noy about the happy gondoliers as evidence that the job must be pretty pleasant. She laughed herself and said: "...or they're just Italian and enjoy life." Wise words and a good reminder.

    Noy and I opted to meander together for a bit, getting a little lost in the crooked alleys, until we found a cute cafe to grab a drink and rest in the shade for a spell.

    Like the too-brief gondola ride, our shared experience was cut short by my 7pm train ticket. We hustled through town, took a few more pictures, and hugged our goodbyes. I'd have loved to grab dinner (we share a food fascination) but alas, not this time.

    The train spit me out into Vicenza and a downpour. To my delight, Francesca was there to drive me back to the house where she, Alberto, and I did enjoy a delicious home-cooked meal with an excellent wine produced by some relatives of theirs - I forget the exact relation. Makes me want to do more wine-tasting around here; Next time.

    As is the theme of this entry.... All of it was just not-enough! I want more time with every aspect of the day and with everybody. Which, I suppose is the mark of a very good day.
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  • Two Months!

    27 juli 2023, Italien ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    I left Home two months ago, May 27.

    Feels like a lot more time has passed.

    I guess ... Really I left *home* three months ago on April 28 and have been voluntarily homeless since then. Not having a 'pin on the map' that represents a home is unsettling to me. I like where I am and what I am doing but recognize the importance of a sense of place as well. I've never felt less geographically secure than I do now and that.... Is notable to me.

    If growth happens at the edges of our comfort zone, I'm being generous with myself in terms of opportunity.
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  • Verona

    27 juli 2023, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Italy continues to impress me!

    I haven't even started to describe how much I enjoyed Venice yesterday but today I saw (too briefly) Verona and loved it.

    After a quick train ride from Vicenza I walked out into blue skies and a fairly warm day.

    I'd done exactly zero preparation beyond asking Francesca and Alberto "Where should I go?"

    They suggested some spots and... Off I went.
    After a brief stroll I realized I should at least look at a map and get my bearings.... Which is when I realized that Verona is much larger tha I expected.

    Since I had such a positive experience in Oporto, I looked to see if there was a hop-on/off bus here and found one, easily. Yay!

    As a rule, I prefer to explore on foot but when pressed for time the bus is a great way to cover a lot of ground, relatively quickly. And they usually have a mediocre audio guide to help educate you. This bus worked fine and took me around a bit, including up a steep hill to get great city views.

    Verona has an arena (roman coliseum) that is well preserved and centuries -old. Very interestingly... It is still in use as a concert venue! I was excited to tour it but alas... It closed at 3:30 and I arrived at 3:20. Darn. I almost bought an expensive opera ticket but decided against staying out till nearly 1am when I have a 6:30 flight. Menos mal that I did.... My lodging for the night turns out to be problematic.

    But my tour of Verona was great: I sat. I meandered. Enjoyed good lunch. Got a gelato in front of a castle. Took some pics of things. Bought a spiffy italian shirt. And genuinely enjoyed the city's charm.

    Verona is home to the Montegues and Capulets. Purportedly real families and I got to see the (maybe) actual patio from whence Romeo looked up to fair Juliet, his rising sun.

    Nifty.

    Also groped a statue because it is supposed to be good luck. Dunno about that part, seems disrespectful in retrospect. But it's water under the bridge, now.

    And speaking of bridges! This town has plenty. My favorite is probably everyone's favorite because it is beautiful and huge and photogenic. And it has a gelato shop at one end and a gelato cart at the other. Just in case you missed at the beginning of your crossing. Good sorbeto. Yum. (I got only 1, despite temptation. I have *some* self control)

    After several bus rides, I got to the airport where I *thought* I had reserved in an airport hotel. It turns out I am in a pod. Now I know how a snickers feels in a vending machine! It feels more "penitentiary" than "futuristic".

    The listing did say "shared bathroom". It did not say "shared with the whole airport". Also there is no bedding nor pillow nor AC and it's about 85 degrees inside. I can handle it, but after walking around a city all day I would enjoy a shower before I travel tomorrow. Alas, that is not to be.

    Adventure! Isn't always glamorous.

    Also when I "checked in" the touchscreen did not work. At 9:30PM I got quick support via text. I suspect that if I had arrived at 1am, after the opera, it may have proven more difficult. Yay! My good luck helped me out.

    And on that note... I am off to sleep.
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  • The Pod

    28 juli 2023, Italien ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Last night's 'lodging' was an excellent lesson in humility and attention to detail.

    I *thought* I had booked a great deal on an airport hotel.

    What I got instead was hot, loud, overlit, and only partly functional. The shared bathroom was ... The airport bathroom.

    But on the plus side, I now know what it feels like to be a candy bar in a vending machine* and I am reminded to pay closer attention when booking online.

    I woke up after a few hours' sleep and enjoyed a tasty coffee (in a paper cup: pet peeve) and the 2nd worst chocolate croissant of my journey so far.... And yet as the sun rose over the tarmac I found myself feeling happy with how much I've enjoyed Italy despite the entire trip being far too brief and disorganized.

    *After reflecting... More like a box in those amazon lockers than a bar in a vending machine.

    **Edit: the fates offered to answer my wish for a shower! Munich airport offers showers with soap and towels for only 17€. While tempted, I felt that my connection was too brief to indulge in that particular luxury. Still.... I do appreciate the quick response, Universe. Thank you.
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  • Split Day 1

    28 juli 2023, Kroatien ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    The flights Verona-Munich-Split went smoothly and quickly. Split's airport is modern and convenient.

    Landing here I tried to come up with a comparison and really couldn't. The steep mountainside down to the sea reminds me of Santa Barbara, the arid features are a little like Baja California Sur, the limestone more like Italy and the way it is developed makes me think of coastal Baja California Norte but with a European and Byzantine touch. Which is to say that it looks like Croatia, and nothing else I know.

    I met up w Brett and Alec in the airport, exchanged hugs and hellos, and we were off to find our bus to the AirBnb.

    The bus was easy enough and we met a friendly Croatian gal named Natalia who helped teach me a few words. Now I can mispronounce hello, goodbye, yes, no, and thank you. It's a start!

    We had a little snafu with missing our stop (seems the bus driver didn't hear/see the stop request or just didn't want to stop) and overshot by a few km. Due to luggage, blazing sunshine, and a low-priced Uber we opted to catch a car back vs. walk or wait an unknown time for a different bus. It's good that we did as it meant meeting Luka! He arrived quickly, blasting limp bizkit, and whisked us off to where we wanted to be while chatting pleasantly and offering local destinations. Great guy, very friendly.

    After meeting our super-helpful AirBnb hostess and getting settled into the clean and comfy apartment, we all needed to clean and comfy ourselves a bit, and I needed to wssh pretty much everything. I've been lazy the last few days w/re to laundry.

    We all crashed for some naps, too. I don't have the jet-lag excuse but The Pod wasn't great sleep.

    Rested and cleaned up we grabbed the local train (very easy) to Split to do some exploration. Split is a bustling touristy port full of places to stroll, eat, drink, see and be seen, and just so happens to have amazing architecture, too. The marble streets are mirror-smooth from centuries of use and I couldn't help but wonder how it could possibly work in the rain.

    We met up with a show-around guide named Vedrana. Showaround is a nifty app that matches local "guides" with travelser and is a little like meeting up with a friend (who you don't know) and having them show you a place for a little bit of money. So Vedrana told us some history and showed us the sights, while sharing candid opinions and observations of her town. It was a fun and educational way to spend a few hours.

    The central castle area is a maze of beautiful alleys, walls, churches, towers, and preserved history mixed with present day living. Some of the structures date back to the 5th and 6th century. There are influences from Venice, Turkey, Northern Europe, and we see baroque, romanesque, and I'm not sure what all mixed together. Wonderful!

    We ended up at Fife Buffet (seems that buffet means restaurant, I think, and not what Americans think of as a buffet). The food and wine were delicious, the evening climate was fun and warm but pleasant.
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  • Flying

    1 augusti 2023, Kroatien ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Sailing.

    I'm so happy and on the verge of tears.... (Edit: crying)
    Missing you Marty, and feeling you here.

    I am profoundly grateful for the fond memories of shared joy on the water, wind in our teeth.

    I treasure the ease with which we worked together. The unspoken glances and tuning sails to squeeze out a 1/4 knot. The gentle chuckle when we knew we nailed it.
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  • Very Good Gelato in Hvar

    2 augusti 2023, Kroatien ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    Pretty place. Many tourists.
    Enormous luxury yachts.

    The alleys are mesmerizing. The harbour is full of small-craft traffic. The sidewalks filled with all manner of people, strolling or stumbling.

    The sea breeze is in the 80s (high 20s) and just fresh enough to feel good after a warm day.
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  • Zoomy Day

    2 augusti 2023, Kroatien

    We rented a fast boat today - 11m RIB w a 250hp 4 stroke.... It worked well for the choppy conditions.

    We started at a "wine tasting" that was an excellent location w/ wine that I thought was much too mineral-forward.

    But the wine is aged (at least partly) in an undersea cellar, which is pretty nifty.

    After that, two different gorgeous beach bars and some exotic red cliffs/caves. The choppy seas meant we couldn't swim near the red rocks, but we sure enjoyed the two 'beaches'.

    I use quotes because beaches here, so far, tend towards pebbly/rocky vs. sandy. It's a visual smorgasbord but tough on the feet.

    Sun, sea, laughs.... Good stuff.

    After a stop on our yacht to clean up we headed back to Hvar for "the best sunset of your life". It was not the best. But I've had an abundance of excellent sunsets... so that's a high bar.

    It was a fun but overcrowded bar so I took a stroll, got a gelato, and am headed home to rest/sleep. Tomorrow is another day!
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  • Sailing Again! ⛵ Vis, Croatia

    3 augusti 2023, Kroatien ⋅ 🌬 82 °F

    The wind was up to ~15-20 kts for most of the day and we made the most of it, sailing several long tacks at 10-12 knots with a partially reefed main, then we sailed just the jib while waiting for other boats to get rafted up.

    The sailing was superb. This More 55 really does well near the wind and while it wallows a bit with a following sea, it was still surprisingly comfortable with 12 people in the cockpit.

    I'm sure we could have squeezed a few knots more with some moving of human ballast and trimming of sails.... Perhaps someday.

    To me the best part was getting people involved. Most of the crew is new to sailing and was showing trepidation about sailing fast... And by the end I feel that most were having a good time (or at least smiling sometimes).

    We arrived to Vis in the afternoon, played in the water for a while, then napped up for the evening's dinner and final DJ party at Ft. George. The dinner was beautiful, on the quay with stone buildings glowing in the sunset. The fort was visually spectacular and moderately crowded, a private party again but with an obvious drop in attendance. It seems I am not the only one who has used up his party-quota for the week. The dj was my least favorite. Maybe I'd feel differently if I were less exhausted.

    I'd like to explore Vis some more but am glad to have had the chance to really sail again. It may impact the direction of the rest of my travel, we shall see.
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  • Good People Abound

    4 augusti 2023, Kroatien ⋅ 🌙 82 °F

    I had an interaction today that left me feeling... Like sometimes you just can't avoid people who are shitty and who will cheat you out of a fair deal if given the chance. That's an unpleasant reality of life.

    Fortunately!
    I also had several experiences in which people were/are great.

    Cases in point: I got some messages from friends that helped me smile. The airbnb host where I'm staying went out of his way to help me with some simple laundry stuff, some people I don't know offered to let me use 'their' cart to carry things down the dock, someone contributed more than her share to help right an economic wrong, and I watched parents playing with their kids.

    At the end of the day I found myself thousands of miles from home, hanging out on a beach with one of my best friends and her fella, watching pastel sunset colors on limestone boulders in a pale blue sea.

    What really drove home the basic goodness of most people was meeting Liliana. She is helping her friend (whose name in Croatian I cannot pronounce, but is "Snow White" in English) to run a cute restaurant near where we are staying. Liliana stopped by our table to chat about travel and offer food and beverage recommendations. Not your typical "eat this" but she actually asked questions and genuinely wanted to be sure we had a good meal. I wanted some veggies so tried to order a seasonal salad with an order lf grilled veggies on top - Liliana was having none of that! She frowned and told me, no, it is better as 2 dishes. We all found the interaction noteworthy but my retelling doesn't do ot justice ... The 2 plates came out and ahe was right: it was better apart.

    We had an excellent meal and one of the more memorable Croatian experiences of our week here. (Eat at History Street Food Cafe, near the airport. Good stuff)

    The best part of travel is often the people and this was a fine reminder of that. Fine, and timely as it would have been easy to feel sour, otherwise.
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  • Last Day In Croatia (for now)

    5 augusti 2023, Kroatien ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    I'm still behind on the week... Too much doing of things and not enough writing about the doing.

    Which I say mostly in jest, the doing is paramount. Yet sometimes I enjoy the doing more when I also give myself time to reflect on what I have been doing.

    The last day in Croatia was not, apparently, a good day for reflection! Instead I slept soundly, waking to enjoy a raging tempest outside my very dry lodgings. I love a good storm but it would have sucked to be on the over-crowded sailboat with this kind of weather, so I feel grateful for the timing.

    In the morning I was feeling some.... Dismay. I'd been planning to walk around Trogir again but doing that in the rain held little appeal - those limestone/marble cobbled streets seem dangerous when wet.

    Fortunately the rain let up and we got out into the world to do a bus ride to Trogir, then a nice meander through narrow walkways. The day was dominated by breakfast (delicious) and touring a 14th century fortress built by the Venetians to protect themselves. And gelato, gelato was enjoyed.

    The week's shenanigans really caught up to all of us and as the steamy air heated up, it was a struggle to stay awake and interested in the town.

    It bears saying: the Dalmatian Coast has an abundance of forts/Kastela. They're everywhere and while they are beautiful now it speaks of a more savage time when such tremendous buildings were needed to prevent invasion and plunder. I'm glad to live now vs. then.

    We bussed back to where we had stored our luggage, lunched at HISTORY, then I barely caught my bus back to Split where I killed a couple hours snapping photos and chitchatting on the phone before boarding an overnight bus to Belgrade, Serbia.

    Funny- I was in Split merely one week ago yet it felt like much water had rushed beneath that bridge.
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  • Auspicious

    5 augusti 2023, Kroatien ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    I'm sittin' here thinkin' about some plans... Could be big plans.

    And I look up to see a rainbow.

    Might mean nothing more than atmospheric water droplets and low-angle sun.

    Might mean a lot more than that.

    I'm inclined towards the latter.
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  • Exhausted in Nowhere

    6 augusti 2023, Serbien ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    I've always been a little fascinated and terrified about being in the no man's land between borders.

    I recall once being faced with the possibility of having to spend the night between Nicaragua and Honduras. It was not an attractive notion at all.

    Are there laws? Police? Are we truly *nowhere*? Or are we technically within a given country and just not yet past the diplomatic boundary?

    If anyone knows the answers, please share.

    Also I am tired*. The road to get here was winding and that makes sleeping on the bus very challenging. Also my seat doesn't recline. And no outlets for charging. This is not a sterling example of European bus travel, so far.

    *To be fair, I have a head cold and was exhausted all day. It isn't all the bus.
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  • Costume Change! CycloAdventure!

    6 augusti 2023, Serbien ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    I stopped in Belgrade to pick up an ebike from Passage Bikes. Very nice people!

    https://passagebikes.com/

    I traded my backpack for some panniers, and am off to explore Serbia!

    ...after I find coffee.Läs mer

  • Tea?

    6 augusti 2023, Serbien ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    When your host hears you cough and asks, "Would you like a tea? From herbs I grow in my garden?"

    The answer is "Yes!"

    The joy on his face at making it may be even greater than my joy at drinking it.

    Especially because it comes with home grown honey.

    I love Europe.
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  • Novi Sad ain't Bad

    7 augusti 2023, Serbien ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    I like Serbia. It hasn't grabbed me by the heart the way that Spain, France, Portugal, and Italy do. Croatia, too, but different as I never felt much of the local culture while surrounded by hoardes of tourists.... Similar to how Venice and Verona struggle to be Italian despute being sooooo Italian.

    That said, I spent a little time cycling around Novi Sad and the older City Center area is quite fetching. The most striking part is the roof on the Name of Mary cathedral. I really should have toured inside as I am sure that it is striking as well. This gothic revival parish church isn't actually the local cathedral at all.... Which illustrates how grandeur isn't always directly related to status/rank. ( https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Name_of_Mary_Ch… )

    But really..... I am pretty full-up on my quota of roman catholic buildings. I've toured.... Many, of late. I need a palate cleanser - like a sniff of coffee at the perfume counter - before I can realistically get enthused again.

    Other highlights: gelato (obviously), a fortress, river views, bridges, people gawking, cafes are everywhere, and the weather was a delightful mid-70s F (low 20s C) with scattered clouds.
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