podróżował/a po 7 krajach. Czytaj więcej
  • Dzień 7

    More Budapest

    30 lipca 2018, Węgry ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    For our first full day in Budapest we had a lot we wanted to see. Where to even start? We decided to hike around for a while to get a better feel for what this city looks like in daylight. Its is the hot season now - temperatures are in the 90-95 degree range so after a few miles of admiring the amazing architecture we decided to have a few piping hot espressos and jump onto one of thoe fixed price, hop on/off busses they have on most big cities. Sure - that doesn't seem very adventurous but it’s a good, cheap way to get around and enjoy a nice breeze.

    Given the heat, we decided to take the bus up to what the pre recorded tour guide called "Statue of the Liberty". It's a beautiful monument in a breathtaking location - on the highest point overlooking the city, with views of the Danube, the wonderful bridges and the Parliament. We also knew there would be a nice breeze up there. It was erected in 1947 under the Soviets to commemorate and honor the Russian liberators. Life under the Iron Curtain was by all acounts harsh so at first it would seem odd that a statue honoring the Soviets would still stand after 1989... however, given the reign of terror and mass murder committed by the nazis in this land, it’s easy to see why the people who gave their lives to drive them out deserve to be honored. The statue sits atop the highest point over the city, on a hill that is mostly wooded, with white cliffs overlooking the danube at some points. It can be seen from almost anywhere in the city

    The Violinist
    A few hundred feet from the monument is a scenic overlook, with little cafes nearby. You can get a cold beer anywhere in Budapest - its amazing. The heat was such that we opted for water, an admittedly rare occurrance on this trip. A violin player had set up camp on the scenic overlook below the cafes - an older gentleman with blonde-going-to-gray hair. He asked where we were from and when we told him, he played Rudolph the Red Nose Reindeer. While it was nice that he played something he thought we would appreciate, I asked if he knew Besame Mucho and he complied. He was legit.

    Once the music was over, the Violinist turned into a tour guide, telling us about all of the buildings in view in a soft, grandfatherley voice, his thick accent adding to the charm. He kindly asked Colton to move a few feet so he could better see the Parliment building, and when Colton didn't immediately comply, he shrieked "MOVE OVER HERE NOW TODAY, NOT TOMORROW!!!!!" Sensing the wierdness of the situation but no real danger, Colton stepped over and the old man went back to his gentle, chaming voice and cotinued to tell us about the city. As he continued with his pleasant lilting tone, Colton asked him a question, "DO NOT INTERRUPTME!" He shrieked "I AM TRYING TO TELL YOU ABOUT BUDAPEST!!!!!!!" We decided this was fun so we went for a few more rounds of turning David Banner into the Incredible Hulk.

    After a few minutes some unfortunate tourists walked up. We told them that this guy was a really good violinist and that they should ask him to play them a song and they seemed delighted at the idea. We threw a decent tip in his violin case and were on our way.
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  • Dzień 6

    Music

    29 lipca 2018, Węgry ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Steve here:

    Ferenc sent me a message. 'We usually set up at 7:30, start at 8:00 and end at 11." I thought that sounded rather rigid for a Jam session, but when in Rome...

    I brought a guitar on this trip. Traveling with a nice guitar can be well worth the risk and worry if the main focus of your trip is music, but an awful distraction if you are traveling for other reasons. I bought a very inexpensive parlour size guitar for this one. As soon as amazon delivered it i grew attached, but my worry about it's demise is not a $5k worry.

    It was getting late in the afternoon, so we caught the bus and rode down the hill, back across the river and jumped off at a stop that was within a mile of our hostel. A brisk walk, a quick shower and a quick cab ride got us to the place at 7:31. Not bad. I walked in and saw a gypsy guitar with a stimer pickup resting on the piano. Good. We had the right place. A minute later a guy walked up, saw my guitar case, smiled and stuck out his hand saying "Hi - I am Ferenc. You must be Steve. Welcome to Budapest".

    The restaurant was French and pretty upscale. There was a nice dining room, a bar and an outdoor terrace. 3 stools were set up in a large opening that connected the inside and outside. A violin and bass player materialized and we headed outside and across the street to a little park to talk and have a smoke. I asked if this was a gig or a jam session and they sort of said "eh - we have fun", and then told me the start and end times of the 3 sets we would be playing. So it was a gig then... Great!

    We talked a bit more and I mentioned some of my favorite artists, including Tcha Limberger and Stocello Rosenberg. "Ya - we play with them when they come to town". Me: "Like on stage , performing?!?!?". Them : "yes". I realized I was with some serious players and got a little nervous.

    We re entered the restaurant through the back, not the front. There was an older guy near the back door whose job, it seemed, was to grunt and push a button that opened the door.

    We took our places. I was worried they would call a tune I didn't know, but it turned out that all knew the same repertoire. They were so kind and welcoming that, despite being 5000 miles from home with 3 people I had just met about to play in a nice restaurant, I felt right at home. Ferenc called the first tune, Coquette.

    We started, and within four seconds I knew I was in the right place, with the right people. It immediately clicked. The rhythm was swinging. It felt good and it sounded good.

    It's been said before but it bears repeating that music is a universal language. All the little nonverbal nuances that happen when I'm playing with my band back home were happening here. The little nod when passing a solo, trading fours, and my favorite: everyone looking at each other right before the end of the song trying to figure out "which ending should we choose?". This last piece usually results in one of 3 or 4 stock endings that we play back home, and the exact same thing happened in Budapest. At times I would look down and really get lost in the song, then look up and realize where I was...

    Did I mention these guys were good? They were top tier players and I was lucky to keep up, but they were generous and I'd put my time in so it worked. After three, 45 minute sets, we were done.

    Colton had eaten a nice duck leg confit and I'd eaten a beer and 2 cigarettes, so I was starving. We said our goodbyes, jumped in a cab and headed back to our 'hood for some Doner Kebab and sleep.

    I hope Ferenc, Thomas and Martin come to visit Chicago some day.
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  • Dzień 6

    Exploring Budapest

    29 lipca 2018, Węgry ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Beautiful Budapest! One of the more amazing cityscapes we have seen!

    The “lifts” are small here and Steve is terrified to get on them, thankfully he has me to keep him calm.

    We shouldn’t be surprised to see Kabali here, he will always be with us on these adventures.

    Doner anyone? This delicious Mediterranean mess of greasy meat, veggies and yogurt sauce wrapped in a pita hits the spot - at least twice a day for us!

    Alcoholic ice cream - we would love to try some, but this is only for kids 18 and less.
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  • Dzień 5

    Settling into Budapest

    28 lipca 2018, Węgry ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    I woke up as we were on final approach to Munich. Actually, Colton woke me up. Then he asked me why my shirt had turned a faint shade of red. I gave it a sniff - it was the cabernet I had ordered several hours earlier, and I had beeen wearing it for so long that it had completely dried. That tylenol PM I took before takeoff had worked as advertised, and then some.

    Munich was a disaster. What should have been a quick 2 hour layover with a nice German lunch and maybe a big, beautiful German beer in an air conditioned lounge didn't happen. Someone had snuck past the security checkpoint and disappeared, so they made everybody exit the airport, then re enter through security. Thousands of people. Its was not good at all. 4.5 hours later we arrived at our gate, a couple of hundred feet from where we had de planed on the previous flight.

    After a short flight we were finally here - Budapest! We quickly found our hostel. The room is way more spartan than we expected, even by European standards, but its close to everything and we don't plan to do much sitting around. After a quick shower we set out to join a pub crawl that Colton had located. It was about 25 people, all tourists from all over Europe and was led by a young woman named Anna. She gave a very humorous speech about what we’d be doing. "There is only one rule she said. "don't be a jerk". She didn't actually use the word Jerk - it was much more colorful. The group went to several Ruin Bars - thats the cool thing here these days. Most buildngs here are very old, with large central coutryards. In some of the older, more abandoned buildings, outdoor bars have popped up in the coutryards. After 3 ruin bars, the group headed to a dance club. We decided that a club wasn't for us at that point in time so we said good bye and headed home for the night.

    We would need the sleep for the next day, as some interesting things were in our future including 'statue of the liberty', the crazy violinist on the hilltop an unexpected gig at a French restaurant and making some new friends.
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  • Dzień 2

    T minus 48 hours!

    25 lipca 2018, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    In 2 days we begin our trip to Hungary and the Balkans. Follow us here.

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