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Jerez 2023

February - March 2023
A 34-day adventure by Tim Lynette Read more
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  • TravelerJerez 2023
    Day 33

    Last two days in Seville

    March 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Yesterday morning was not so cold as the day before but mostly cloudy. We went first to see some Roman columns in situ from a temple but it turned into quite a hunt as they were not where marked on the map. In the end they were probably not worth the bother except to see that the current street level in Seville is 14 feet higher than in Roman times.

    Next we went to the Hospital de Caridad to see some paintings but it was closed for a wedding until 2pm. Not the best start to the day. So we went across the river to Triana market which was good and we bought some ceps - oyster mushrooms - to saute for supper. We had lunch by the river which was still pleasant without the sun.

    We returned to the Caridad and enjoyed seeing some Murillo paintings in the chapel for which they were created.

    This morning we diligently went round all 14 rooms of the Museo de Belles Artes looking at Spanish paintings from the 15 century to current day. I don't want to see any more paintings of saints or fat cherubs for a very long time.

    Just as we sat down to have lunch at a pavement cafe our luck ran out and it started to rain heavily. They had no tables free indoors so we left and took refuge in a restaurant we went to a few nights ago. We didn't regret it. It is the best cooking we have found in Seville and we had another good meal.

    Now it's packing time as we leave for the airport at 9.00 tomorrow.    Read more

  • TravelerJerez 2023
    Day 32

    Cold/hot day in Seville

    March 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    When we set off sightseeing this morning it was bitter cold - reported 0c overnight. We wandered up through the northern part of Seville, la Macarena, a poorer area, to see the remains of the Roman walls and Arab gate. On the way we passed the hotel we stayed in the first time we came to Seville in 1999. It looked the same from the outside but completely redeveloped round the courtyard - lots of marble and glass. By the time we had done that the sun was out so we indulged in the Spanish habit of sitting in the sun drinking coffee/chocolate to warm up.

    By the time we returned to our apartment for lunch on the terrace, the sun was quite hot and so for this first time this trip we needed to use sun cream!

    Generally the food here is more touristy than Jerez but still ok. Last night we went to a restaurant where the cooking was really good and we had a lovely meal.    Read more

  • TravelerJerez 2023
    Day 30

    Sightseeing in Seville

    March 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We have been to Seville a couple of times before but not for 10 years. In past visits we saw the main sights - cathedral, la giralda, alcazar, tobacco factory (setting for Carmen) so don't feel the need to go again. Today we explored mostly places we had not been before.

    First was the Casa de Pilatos, built early 1500s by a marquis, mixing styles from genuine Greek and Roman sculptures, mudejar/Arabic, Renaissance and mad Spanish tiles. It was huge and interesting but strange.

    Next we returned to the archaeological sites under the Plaza de Encarnation which was discovered in 2005 when they planned to build an underground car park. Instead they thankfully preserved it underneath the mercado. Its Roman from 1st to 6th century AD with some lovely mosaics. They are still working on it.

    The plaza also houses the world's largest wooden structure known locally as the Setas- mushrooms - you can see why. This time we went up the walkway around the top from where you get great views all over Seville.    Read more

  • TravelerJerez 2023
    Day 29

    Arrived in sevilla

    March 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Again all the travel went OK and we arrived in sevilla in the afternoon. The apartment is a decent size and set up nicely. A trip to the supermarket just 2 minutes away and an hour on the roof terrace watching the sun go down, and the parakeets flying around. I remember that there were lots of parakeets in almeria when were there a few years ago but I haven't seen any in Jerez.Read more

  • TravelerJerez 2023
    Day 28

    Leaving jerez

    February 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    As always I can't believe our time here has gone so quickly. Tomorrow morning we leave and get the train to Seville to spend a few days there before flying home. The city is packed this week - as well being the Flamenco festival I guess its the start of the tourist season. A month ago there were almost no tourists here but now the streets are full of English, American, French and German voices, and as usual in the festival week, lots of Japanese! I think it must be time to leave!

    It's still only February but the sun is now really strong, although the air is still cold, and it was down to 0 degrees last night and forecast -2 tonight. Frost! Really?

    The weather has not been as good as usual and very unpredictable - we have never been able to rely on the forecasts. This weekend was due to be rainy and all this week in Seville. But we have had none this weekend - we watched the black clouds going across just south of Jerez. The forecast now for Seville is sunshine but a bit chilly. Indeed the only rain we have had during the day was when Pete was here! We are not complaining - there have been many sunny days and on most of them it is warm enough to sit on the terrace sheltered from the chilly wind. This evening we had our last glass of sherry as the sun went down - one of the real joys of being here.    Read more

  • TravelerJerez 2023
    Day 26

    Carnival weekend

    February 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    This weekend has been carnival in Jerez. Its not a big spectacular like the one in cadiz, but there are bands playing and processions, especially ones for kids. One of the kids processions came through the pedestrian precinct next to our apartment with the kids dressed in fancy dress , lots of superheroes!

    I managed to get to the football today for the last time before we move on to seville. Xerez won 3-2 against Sanlucar, which is where we were earlier in the week. Still leaves xerez in the relegation zone tho!

    The weather is still strange. The forecast for yesterday and today was rain, but it's been quite sunny even though there's a biting cold wind. At least we managed to have lunch out in the sun.    Read more

  • TravelerJerez 2023
    Day 23

    Brilliant day in Sanlucar

    February 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Breakfast in the cafe next to the hotel, just coffee, orange juice, toast and jam, but for some reason really tasty and buzzing with local people. Then a tasting and tour at the best known bodega in town, La Gitana. Probably the best tour we have ever had - and we've had lots. It was just us, and the lady doing it was so informative , we learned lots of things we didn't know. And the sherries were really good too.

    She said that there are over 20 bodegas in Sanlucar, and we've only been to two of them - we'll just have to come back.

    After that, lunch in the tapas restaurant of the other bodega we know, La Cigarrera, with fantastic food, and more manzanilla, before getting the bus back to Jerez.    Read more

  • TravelerJerez 2023
    Day 22

    Sanlucar

    February 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    The bus trip worked just fine - and again just 2 euros each. We checked into our hotel which is right in the middle of the old town and has a beautiful moorish courtyard and tiling. Right next door is a manzanilla bodega which don't know, set in an antique moorish house . It was tempting to go and try the wines but we were on our way down to the river side for lunch!

    Great lunch at the side of the river, then back to a quiet laze in the sun. Yesterday, today and tomorrow are sunny and warm but all the time our guests, Pete and the Armstrongs, were here it was cloudy, cold and windy. I think next week when we go to Saville it's going to rain everyday. We've never had weather like this here!    Read more

  • TravelerJerez 2023
    Day 21

    Going on holiday!

    February 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Just for a couple of days.

    Tomorrow morning we will catch the bus to Sanlucar de Barrameda, a journey of maybe 45 minutes. Sanlucar is a town and port on the estuary where the river Quadalquivir meets the ocean, and is famous for its manzanilla, a type of dry sherry like fino, which is supposed to get the tangy taste of the sea in it. The town is also famous for it's seafood.

    We should arrive in time for lunch, then a doze in the sun, before going out again to one of the restaurants along the river front. On thursday morning we have booked a tour and tasting at one of the manzanilla bodegas before lunch and our bus back to jerez. I'm going to need a good diet when we get home!

    Friday sees the start of the Flamenco festival. Its a big thing and the city is already filling up. Last year we took the kids to one of the early shows, but the best ones are only on very late, starting at 10 or 11 pm. I don't think we will be going to any this year.    Read more

  • TravelerJerez 2023
    Day 19

    Sunday on our own

    February 19, 2023 in Spain

    The Armstrong's left at 6.30 this morning to catch the plane home from Malaga 2.5 hrs drive away. Not without drama - the exit barrier from the car park wouldn't rise so the remote assistance told us to lift it manually which with some effort we did and they escaped.

    I went to mass at the cathedral today as usual but the place was packed, with plastic chairs in all the aisles and chapels and only standing room in the remaining spaces. I don't know what the special occasion was but there were 5 bishops and over 50 priests there. After mass there was a procession through the streets of Jerez with groups carrying hundreds of banners and a band! They seemed to be from parishes all over this part of Andalucia - I heard groups from Chipiona and El Bosque. I think they were the confraternities that take part in Semana Santa but there were none of the big heavy statues today.

    It has been very quiet in our apartment this afternoon and we are already missing our visitors.    Read more

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