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Europe 2023
  • Danielle and Co travels
Eyl – Eki 2023

Europe 2023

We are off to Europe to catch up with family, explore new cities and revisit some favourites. We will also be joining a walk and wine tour with Explore through Spain and Portugal. Okumaya devam et
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  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2023Gezgin
    Rooftops of Segovia
    A memorial to some 'Nationalists' - there is a movement to remove these in SpainLovely streets of SegoviaStamping of buildings, unique to Segovia2Moorish influenceInterior courtyards - again the Moorish influencePlaque in the old Jewish quarterPlaza MayorCathedral of SegoviaIntricate work and detail of the CathedralHeading down to one of the city gatesCity GateHe was a Spanish folklorist, musicologist and dulzaina player, which is in the oboe familyTorreznos - pork not pastry!Ian enjoying his pork snackDelicious Tostas for lunch1TortillaBlood SausageEnjoying drinks under umbrellas

    Segovia orientation walk

    10 Ekim 2023, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    This morning Gabriele took us an orientation walk across the old city. We revisited the aqueduct and then started to wander up the narrow streets towards the centre of the old town. We looked at the architecture of Segovia, saw the Moorish influences and passed through the Jewish quarter, making our way to Plaza Mayor and the Cathedral of Segovia, which is very impressive.

    We passed through the old gates of the city and made our way to the Alcazar (or Royal Palace) which is in amazing condition. As we did a tour of the Alcazar and climbed the tower after our orientation walk, there will be a separate entry to follow.

    We stopped for refreshments and sat on a lovely terrace at the visitor centre next to the Alcazar. I went to get Ian and I a cold drink and noticed some ‘pastries’, so I ordered a couple of them. Turns out I ordered Torreznos, which are Iberico Spanish Pork Scratchings - they were absolutely delicious but obviously more salty than sweet!

    After our drinks break we wandered along the city walls a bit to the Puerta de San Andrés, where the walk ended. Some of us headed back to the Alcazar for a visit, then enjoyed lunch on a lovely terrace with umbrellas at a restaurant near the Puerta de San Andrés.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2023Gezgin
    The Alcazar
    Gardens in front of the AlcazarOn the viewing deck after climbing the towerView back to Segovia and the CathedralAnother view from the viewing platformHappy with having made it to the topLooking out the other side of the AlcazarAnother view across the forecourt looking back to the CathedralIan on the lower balconyKim on the lower balconySuits of armourThrone RoomWaiting GalleryStained glass windowsView out the main galleryKings bedroomView looking back to the Alcazar

    Alcazar and Tower visit, Segovia

    10 Ekim 2023, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    A number of us decided to the visit to the Alcazar which included a visit to the top of the tower (152 steps). We had a timed entry to the Tower so we did that first, it consisted of a couple sets of normal stairs followed by a small and narrow spiral staircase that was hard going but we made it. We were advised by the guard we had 50 minutes in total at the top.

    The climb was worth it with 360 degree views across Segovia. On the descent there was a lower balcony, where we also got good views of the town. After descending the Tower we visited several rooms in the Alcazar, which was in great condition.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2023Gezgin
    Lovely dry whites in this region
    Nice view while eating ice-creamJuan BravoNice street artLion guarding the cathedralStreet ArtInteresting door knockerLovely art in the AlcazarLovely TilesFlowers still bloomingRestaurant where we had suckling pigCarafes of wineSuckling PigHe cuts it up with a plate to demonstrate how tender it isIan got one of the legsHot air ballons

    Final memories of Segovia

    10 Ekim 2023, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Segovia is a wonderful city with so much to see and do. Here are some final images, including our dinner of a local specialty - suckling pig - it was delicious, but not something I would have again.

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  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2023Gezgin
    Start and finish of our walk
    Coffee time before our walkMain square in SepulvedaGabriele in full explanation of what we will see on this walkStork in full flightLimestone CanyonGriffon Vulture in full flightOne poppy I spottedIan, Marie & Kim at one of the old city gatesCity GateHeading down to the riverCrossing an old Roman bridgeIan down by the riverAnother Roman bridgeDescending again!Under an old bridge - final stage of the walkClimbing up again, back to the centre of town for a drink and tapasWhite wine & tapasTostas for lunch - delicious

    Sepulveda & Duraton River Natural Walk

    11 Ekim 2023, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    This morning we headed off to Sepulveda for a walk through the spectacular limestone canyon area of the Duraton River Natural Park. We walked along the river, past the old city gates and city wall and climbed up and down several times as we crossed the river and a number of old Roman bridges into the valley. The scenery was absolutely breathtaking and we even saw a Black Neck Stork and several Griffon Vultures during our walk. It was a sunny day and quite warm, so we did enjoy the shady areas of the walk close by the river.

    Our walk covered around 6 kilometres and took us about 2 hours with 150 metres of ascent and descent. We arrived back at the Medieval town of Sepulveda, where we were able to sit under umbrellas and enjoy wine, beers and tapas. Ir was a wonderful morning’s activity.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2023Gezgin
    Penafiel
    Hotel Convento Las ClaresInternal courtyard at the hotelPenafiel castleThe riverLovely umbrellas decorate one of the narrow streetsStreet ArtPlaza del CosoPlaza del CosoPlaza del CosoVery narrow houseAnother view of the castleDrinks on the terraceThe terraceDinner in the fabulous restaurantI had the cod - fabulously deliciousIan had the lambWe tried the convents wine - very nice

    Penafiel

    11 Ekim 2023, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    After visiting Sepulveda we headed off for Penafiel, which is a town in the Valladolid Province of the autonomous community of Castile and León, Spain. Here we stayed in a converted convent which was just stunning and sat below the castle located on a hill nearby.

    Penafiel is best known for the Penafiel Castle, which was built in the 10th century, and for its medieval square, called Plaza del Coso and which is still used for bullfights. The square has a sandy surface and is surrounded by private homes. Since medieval times the rights to use their windows, balconies and doorways during bullfights are owned by the town, which auctions them to the highest bidder.

    Penafiel is a lovely town, that has narrow streets, interesting churches and is very easy to get around.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2023Gezgin
    Old winery
    Video presentation roomTunnels in the old sectionCollection of back vintages for history and analysisLarge Oak barrelsThey also use concrete egg shaped containers to age the wineSuch an innovative spaceNew oak barrels 1,000 Euro eachTasting the whiteProtos shopView up to the castleNew Addition to the WineryAfter the tasting having a bit of a debrief

    Protos Bodega

    11 Ekim 2023, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    After checking into Hotel Convento Las Claras we had a walk through town to Protos Bodega for a tour of the winery, followed by a tasting. We first watched a video, projected onto the four walls around us, that provided the history and ethos of the winery. The oldest Protos building and cellars are built into the side of the hill on which the castle is situated.

    The tour started in the old winery, walking underground to see where the barrels are stored. This part of the winery is no longer used for the fermentation process, that is all done over in their new ultramodern facility.

    The new section of the winery is reached via a tunnel that goes under the road. This addition to the winery was completed in 2008 and was designed by Richard Rogers and Alonso Balaguer. The new facilities are very impressive and the building has been designed to be pleasing to the eye, but also to meet the environmental needs for producing wine while minimising the consumption of energy required.

    After touring the facilities we got to taste two of their wines. First a white, which was a Verdejo from the Rueda region and then a Tempranillo from the Ribera del Duero region (here called Tinto Fino) - both were very good.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2023Gezgin
    City Gate
    Street ArtTorre del RelojDecorative bannersDelicious baklavaView down to the river from old townDanielle and the DevilColegiata de Santa María La MayorInternal tympanumRear of the churchOlive - such a sweet dogColourful bunting and market stallsTown HallReturning with a purchaseEating purchase with a coffeeSerious jewellery shoppingThe Celtic Bull - which influenced the current name of the town

    Toro

    12 Ekim 2023, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Following a scrumptious breakfast at Las Claras we headed off to the town of Toro. Toro is in the province of Zamora and is located on a fertile high plain, northwest of Madrid. It is known as a centre of Mudéjar (Moorish) art and as a wine-producing region. It is located on the Duero River.

    Toro is an ancient town - it was conquered by Hannibal in 220 BC. The Roman town was called Albucella and it is thought that the modern name may derive from the bull totem of the Celts who inhabited the central and northeastern Iberian Peninsula during the final centuries BCE. In the 8th century it was conquered by the Moors and in about 910 after the Muslims started to leave, Alfonso III started repopulating the town.

    Today was a public holiday in Spain - Hispania Day - which commemorates when Christopher Columbus first set foot in the Americas in 1492. The town of Toro was celebrating with a four day medieval market in the old town. The market stalls were being set up as we arrived and the town looked very festive as it was decorated in colourful bunting and ribbons.

    Gabriele took us on an orientation tour of the old city. We passed through the Torre del Reloj (clock tower) and walked through the Main Street, which is beautifully preserved. We visited the Colegiata de Santa María La Mayor, a medieval church that was built in 1170 and is dedicated to Saint Mary the Great. It has a tower and a very impressive internal tympanum.

    We then had some free time to explore the town, have a coffee and look at the market stalls before heading off for a wine tasting.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2023Gezgin
    Where the magic happens
    Steel tanksBarrelsStreet artWinery - tastings, sales and bottlingOur host MariaTasting straight from the barrelRoséCheersMore tastingAnd more tastingHappy groupDelicious lunch to go with our tastingMaria providing information about the vintageAll her wines on offer

    Wine Tasting at Mazas

    12 Ekim 2023, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We met back up with the bus driver at noon to head off for a wine tasting. Our host was the winemaker and owner of Mazas, Maria. Maria was a very engaging host who had spent quite a few years in Australia working for a range of wineries.

    Maria is an independent winemaker and so her operation is quite small. She first took us to an old building where the wine is produced. They had just completed the harvest and so the tanks were full of grapes going through the fermentation process.

    We then returned to the main building, which is the finishing, bottling and sales area, where we first tasted a range of wines straight from the tanks/barrels followed by several wines from bottles. I think we tried 8 wines all up. Maria’s husband Luis provided a delicious spread to accompany the tastings. We had 3 types of empanadas, cheese pastries, small rolls and chips. It was one of the best tastings I have done. Maria and Luis are very generous people.

    Maria’s passion for winemaking is great and she was able to provide us with so much information about the different varietals she uses and generally about winemaking in the region. I really enjoyed her wines and, the good news is, they are available in Australia. She will be coming to Melbourne in November to do some promotions.

    Straight from the barrel we tried a white, a rosé and two reds. We then had a Verdejo, a Rosado, a Garnacha Tinto and a Robles. My favourites were the Verdejo and the Robles.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2023Gezgin
    Looking across to Zamora
    Part of the old city wallStreet artNarrow, colourful streetsMore artTown HallChurch of San Juan de Puerta NuevaMonumento al MerlúStork Nest on the bell towerKim being a gooseDelicious ice-creamThe TheatreEponymous PlazaMonument to ViriatoMonument to Viriato - from a different vantage pointMore artStreet artStreet artIglesia de la Magdalena

    Zamora

    12 Ekim 2023, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    After our fabulous wine tasting we got back on the bus and headed for the town of Zamora. Zamora is situated in Castile and Leon and has the highest concentration of Romanesque art and architecture in Europe. It is, therefore, referred to as the city of Romanesque. There are 14 Romanesque churches in the old town, a large Cathedral, a castle, medieval ramparts, a Roman bridge and two palaces.

    Through the province of Zamora passes the via de la plata (silver way), an old Roman route that connects Seville to Gijón and has traditionally been used as a southern route of the Way of St. James by pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela. This route is growing in popularity.

    We walked into town by crossing a pedestrian bridge over the Duero river. Zamora is a beautiful town that is extremely clean and well maintained. We walked up through the narrow streets to the Plaza Mayor de Zamora. The town was full of people taking advantage of the public holiday. We found a place in the shade to have a cold drink and rest for a bit before exploring the city. Some of us also had an ice-cream as it was the perfect weather for it.

    We then walked through the town taking in all the sites. We went back down to the river where we could see the Roman Water Mill up close. It was a lovely afternoon, although a tad too warm for me. The bus picked us about about 5pm and we then had an hours drive to Fermoselle, our home for the next 3 nights.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2023Gezgin
    Posada Dona Urraca Hotel
    View from the entranceOur roomSitting areaThe hotel has been lovingly renovatedView from the terraceSunset over the townThe hotel has multiple terraces2Danielle and KimWine made with Juan García grapes that Ian chose for dinnerSalmon with white asparagusBeef cheeks which were just so good - melted in your mouthRoasted vegetablesLamb in almond sauceChocolate cake

    Fermoselle

    12 Ekim 2023, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We arrived at Posada Dona Urraca, a unique and interesting hotel that would be our home for the next 3 nights. We were very close to the Portuguese border and Fermoselle is right in the heart of the Arribes del Duero National Park.

    Fermoselle is a small medieval village in the province of Zamora and is part of the region of Castile and León. It has a population of less than 1,500 - it looks bigger but has a lot of empty houses. It dates back more than 2,000 years to pre-Roman times, and has been well preserved through the centuries.

    Fermoselle stands at 700 metres above sea level on the Duero River, near the edge of the Arribes cliffs over the river’s 163 kilometre-long gorge. The gorge is noted for green rock formations, some exceeding 150 metres in height. The Arribes del Duero National Park at the confluence of the Duero and the Tories rivers is the largest natural park in Castile and León.

    There are many examples of Roman architecture throughout the town, and the area has many rustic stone houses and narrow medieval streets. Fermoselle has a long history of viticulture. It harvests an indigenous grape variety called Juan García, from terraced vineyards on the rim of the river gorge. It is unusual in that it grows as individual bushes. The local micro-climate and terrain conditions are similar to Tuscany in Italy.

    As we arrived fairly late, we ate at the hotel restaurant. The food was very good and the local wine we tried, made up of 100% Juan García grapes, was excellent and was perfect with the beef cheeks and lamb. Tomorrow we will do our first walk in the area.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2023Gezgin
    Old houses on the edge of town
    The start of the pathA view back to FermoselleOlive trees and grape vinesStone shepherds hutFermoselle in the distanceJuan García grape vinesOne of many local springsNice floraDanielle and the Duero RiverView of Duero RiverView of Duero RiverBell tower of old churchVisigoth inscriptions on old churchEnjoying our picnic lunchSome street art at our picnic spotGrape vines showing autumn coloursMore vines and olive trees

    Walk in Arribes del Duero National Park

    13 Ekim 2023, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Following a good nights sleep and a hearty Spanish breakfast we headed into Fermoselle to get our first look at the town and pick up supplies for our picnic lunch. We invaded the local supermarket picking up bread, cheese, Jamon, fruit, nuts and lettuce. We then walked through this beautiful medieval town and out the other side to enter the National Park.

    Today our walk was approximately 11 kilometres. The weather was quite humid and rain keept threatening, but we didn’t actually get much during the walk. We passed by a number of farms and small vineyards in various states of disrepair. Gabriele tells us that some of the properties are empty, as people often need to move away from their hometown to find employment. She said that people remain attached to their place of birth and so they plan to return once retired. So, an issue in Spain is that many of these smaller villages have an aging demographic which doesn’t help the town grow and thrive. There are many properties for sale but if you were to move to a village such as Fermoselle you would need to have your own business or income stream as there are few employment opportunities.

    I digress, back to the hike. It was a pleasant morning and we got to see the Duero River and the gorge. We stoped at a Visigoth church for our picnic lunch before heading back to town.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2023Gezgin
    Urban knittingBeautiful old steps leading to another lanewayThe group setting off through the village for a hikeOne of the gates used in the running of the bullsAnd we are off on another adventureNarrow village gare that we saw some cars and vans struggle to manoeuvre throughFermoselle Town HallIntricate art work around the bellLocal churchBeautiful shop/business signJust love the narrow streets of this villageThe person that is most admired in Fermoselle - a bit of Ian McNicol self promotionMore urban knittingNotice the photo on the van is a photo of the gate!One of the 1200 cellarsSome buildings need a bit of work

    Fermoselle

    13 Ekim 2023, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Fermoselle is a lovely medieval hilltop village. It is full of charm and lovely architecture. The village still has a “running of the bulls” event each year and there are large gates strategically placed throughout village to keep the bulls on track.

    There are about 1,200 underground cellars in the town; some are used by wine producers but the majority are owned by families. Some are located under houses but some might be across the road or dug into solid rock.

    Another phenomenon we noticed around the town were crocheted artworks (urban knitting is what our guide called them). There was even a crocheted cover for the phone box.

    There were lots of places for sale in the village. A fully furnished one bedroom apartment was going for 55,000 euros and it was located in the centre of the village.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2023Gezgin
    Charlotte outside Roberto's wine cellarDown the rampSpace is at a premium in the chamberSecond chamber contained two large concrete tanksCharlotte's current spaceRepurposing one of the bar areasDisco ballWaxing stationCharlotte explaining her operationsLocal sausage and cheese served with the tastingFirst wine we triedCharlotte was worried one of the wines was corkedWine number two very smoothWine number threeHappy campersDinner at restaurant Espana

    Wine Tasting with Charlotte Allen

    13 Ekim 2023, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We went to a wine tasting this evening with an English winemaker, Charlotte Allen, who has made Fermoselle her home since 2007. Prior to the wine tasting we met Charlotte at one of the “cellars” that she had previously used to produce her wine. She outgrew the space in about 2016 and passed it on to her friend Roberto who has now also outgrown the space but is still there as he hasn’t found an alternative.

    Charlotte moved to a disused discotheque, but more on that later. The cellar she showed us was quite unusual as it didn’t have stairs but instead a ramp which made it easier to move things in and out. The inner area of the cellar consisted of two chambers that have been chipped out of the solid granite. They were impressive spaces with domed ceilings. There were also three wells in the cellar that are sources of fresh and cold water.

    A friend of Charlotte has dated the cellar as being at least 500 years old. She also suspects that Jewish people, who were forced to convert to Catholicism or be expelled at the time, may have continued to practice their religion in private in the chambers away from prying eyes. The well in the larger chamber has 7 steps leading down to a well, which suggests it was part of ritual washing practiced by women in Judaism.

    Following the tour of the cellars and the history lesson we headed over to Charlotte’s current winery and work space which, as I mentioned earlier, is housed in a disused discotheque that closed in the 1990’s. it is a large flat space that works well as a place to produce wine. The disco mirror balls, palm trees on the wall and funky bar areas add to its charm and uniqueness.

    We tried a range of her wines, starting with a white which was a field blend and went very well with a sheep cheese she provided. We then had her Cielos & Besos (Hugs and Kisses) wine which was a young unoaked blend of Juan Garcia and other local varieties. We then tried her more upmarket “Mateo” wine named after her son. It was a “crianza” that was a blend of mencía and brunal, and was a very nice drop.

    We then tried her “”Licores”, a blend of grappa made by a retired policeman and sugar and water. It was pretty good and easier to drink than eau de vie. It was very smooth, even though it was about 43% proof.

    We then headed to dinner at Restaurant Espana, recommended by Charlotte as one of the better local ones. We had dinner in a fairly noisy upper section of the restaurant, and it didn’t disappoint.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2023Gezgin
    Warning regarding wild boar
    There was low cloud and mist as we headed outThis was the type of terrain we walked onSaw some goatsHaving a short break as Gabriele gives us some information about the areaGrape vinesThe scenery was great and kept changingDiscussion with the hunters1I said do something goofy and only half the group got the memoAbout half way markThe Duoro RiverLots of bends in the riverGroup photoBridge made of rocks and graniteA mill from many centuries agoWaiting for the rest of the group to catch upJust beautiful countryFinishing line

    Saturday morning walk

    14 Ekim 2023, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    This morning we went on a nine kilometre walk from Fermoselle to Fornillos. We left the hotel and swung by the bakery to pick up some pre-ordered chorizo rolls for our lunch. The weather was a bit cooler this morning, with some cloud cover and less humidity, so I found the conditions much more to my liking. This meant I spent most of the walk up front instead of being the back walker.

    As we left the bakery to start the walk we saw a sign that read “Atención Batida”, which means ‘watch out for wild boar’ as there was hunting in the area. Gabriele advised us that we should not worry, but we should stay together and stay on the walking track to minimise any risk to us if we did happen to encounter a wild boar.

    We headed off walking up and down hills, through rocky and damp terrain. About 3 kilometres into the walk a convoy of vehicles appeared behind us. There were about 8 vehicles and they were full of hunters in search of wild boar. They tried to tell Gabriele that the walking track was closed today because of people being out hunting. Gabriele was having none of it and, after quite an animated discussion, it was agreed that about a kilometre ahead the hunters would be heading left and we would be walking straight on. Gabriele 1, hunters 0.

    We did pass the hunters as they had headed left into thicker vegetation further down the track and we followed the walking path. We did hear the hunters later on shouting and making lots of noise but we didn’t hear any guns going off. Boars 1, hunters 0, hopefully.

    It was a wonderful walk with beautiful scenery constantly changing as we headed towards the Duoro River and Portugal. The landscape at the 7 kilometre mark was amazing, with views down through the gorge to the river. The weather was also improving with the sun making an appearance.

    We finally could see our destination in sight and less than a kilometre away was the village of Fornillos. A local bar was opening especially for us, providing us with cold drinks to go with our chorizo rolls, which were absolutely delicious. We also had some nuts and chocolate to share with the group and others had brought some fruit, so no-one starved.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2023Gezgin
    On the bus to the wine and cheese tasting
    Sara our host explaining her enterpriseStarted with a whiteThe cheese was so goodHappy camperThe semi hard cheeseCheese Sara made that morningThis 2014 Tinto Crianza was so goodKim, Kathy and Ian enjoying the tastingIdyllic little village

    Bodega La Setera

    14 Ekim 2023, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    As we finished up lunch at the bar our bus driver arrived to take us up the road to a wine and cheese tasting. Bodega La Setera is located in the village of Fornillos de Fermoselle, a very small village of about forty inhabitants.

    Our host Sara, gave us two delicious cheeses made from goats milk, one was a fresh soft cheese she had made that morning and the other a slightly firmer cheese. Both were absolutely delicious. They don’t have their own goats but source the milk from a couple of local farmers.

    We also tried two of Sara’s wines. She produces about 9,000 bottles a year, so a fairly small operation that she runs with her husband. They have been building the business for about 13 years and diversified into cheese making about 7 years ago to give them a better work life balance. They produce a wine that is 100% Juan García grape, a local varietal from the area which we had tried at dinner on our first night in Fermoselle and really liked.

    For our first tasting we tried La Setera Blanco 2021 which was a great accompaniment to the cheese. Sara also opened a fabulous red, La Setera Seleccion Especial, Tinto Crianza 2014.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2023Gezgin
    The border
    Large dam below MirandaGabriele explaining some of the history of MirandaRemains of the old city wallMore of the remainsNarrow streets of MirandaMiranda is a lovely old cityOld Church in MirandaIan and Kim in costumeTown HallStatues in traditional dressCathedralView from near the CathedralUmbrella breakI might have over indulged in the white SangriaThis dog was only 11 months old and was the size of a ponyCastle ruinsMore castle ruins2Best pastel de nata ever

    Miranda do Douro - Portugal

    14 Ekim 2023, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Following our tasting at La Setera Quesos y Vinos we headed to Miranda do Douro located in the district of Bragança, northeastern Portugal. It is unique in that it has a language of its own, Mirandese, which enjoys official status in Portugal. This was due to it’s very remote location. The town is situated on the border with Spain, with the Douro (or Duero in Spanish) River separating the two countries.

    There is evidence that inhabitants have been living in Miranda since the Bronze Age. Around AD 716, the Moors defeated local Visigoth tribes and occupied some of the lands, calling the area Mir-Hândul. By the late 11th century, León possessed the region as a stepping-stone to Portugal.

    The settlement of the village of Miranda developed through the initiative of King Denis, in an area that lay between the lateral slopes of the Douro and Fresno rivers. It was in Miranda that the Treaty of Alcanices was signed between Denis and Ferdinand IV of Castile, therefore setting the border between the Kingdom of Portugal and the Crown of Castile.

    In 1762, during the Seven Years’ War, the army of Charles III of Spain invaded the Trás-os-Montes. During the course of the invasion, the gunpowder magazine (with 500 barrels of powder) was hit by a cannon, destroying the four towers of the castles and many of the barrios in the vicinity. About a third of the city’s population was killed (400 people) resulting in the ruin of the religious, demographic and urbanised portion of Miranda. About 2 years later friar Alexis Miranda Henriques, the 23rd bishop, abandoned Miranda, moving to Bragança, which had become a rival episcopal seat in the northeast part of Portugal.

    We had some time here to explore the city and also find some shady umbrellas and have a drink or two. We also had one of the best pastel de nata I have ever had as it was fresh out of the oven from a local bakery.

    While there, we visited the Cathedral, a nice vantage point to see the surrounding area, see some of the remaining city wall and the ruins of the castle.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2023Gezgin
    All aboardLichen CliffsGriffon Vultures1Heading back to the docking area

    International Douro Natural Park

    14 Ekim 2023, Ispanya

    Following our visit to Miranda we headed down to the Douro river - which is not Portugal or Spain but is considered to be international waters - to take a cruise. The Europarques-EBI International Biological Station was established in 2002 with the support of the ICNF of Portugal together with three European universities. In 2006, the Foreign Ministers of Spain and Portugal officially ratified it. All ships are equipped with the latest hybrid-electric navigation technologies, heated panoramic deck, on-board laboratory and large viewing terraces.

    We traveled about 3 to 4 kilometres along the Douro river. We saw the Lichen Cliffs, passed the River Otters’ habitat (but didn’t see any), passed the Royal Eagle area which has some of the most spectacular vertical cliffs of the Arribes del Duero region, passed the habitat of the black stork, and saw some Griffin Vultures, including a family on a ledge and several soaring above us. We also saw some kestrels and eagles.

    The landscape we passed through was quite spectacular. There were towering cliffs and interesting rock formations. The cruise lasted about an hour. The first half was an information session given in Portuguese and Spanish, and we just had a map with numbers indicating where we were up to on the cruise. Nobody was allowed outside. Gabriele had forewarned us about this. For the return journey, people were allowed to leave their seats and go onto the decks for selfie opportunities and more photos. It was a lovely experience and quite peaceful.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2023Gezgin
    Tiles at Pocinho StationThe group are all settled and waiting to departWe seem to be the only group going in one direction and therefore have luggageBeautiful viewsGrape vines are planted everywhereOne of many bridges we crossVines and olive trees as far as the eye can seeOne of many tunnels we pass throughIt is a single track so we have to go on the siding a couple of times and wait for a train to passPinhão Station - love the black catAproaching another bridgeCrossing from the left to the right side of the riverWe passed a range of boats travellinf on the river including some large river cruisers2Made it to Peso da Regua

    Local Train along the Douro Valley

    15 Ekim 2023, Portekiz ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We headed off after breakfast for the Portuguese village of Pocinho, about a two hour drive. Pocinho is a village in Northern Portugal, located in the Vila Nova de Fox Côa Municipality and is the terminus of the Linda do Douro train route through Northern Portugal. We boarded a local train for the journey along the Douro Valley to the town of Peso da Regua and travelled through what is regarded to be the most beautiful section of the line, between Pocinho and Pinhão. The terraced Douro Valley vineyards are extensive, stretching right up the steep sides of the valley, and are studded with impressive Quinta (wineries). This train ride has become very popular in recent years after appearing on the show “The most beautiful train rides in the world”.

    Outside of Pinhão, the Douro narrows and the scenery becomes more rocky, rugged and wild. At Ferradosa, the train crosses a bridge to the south bank of the river. We passed through broad valleys studded with olive trees and vineyards and we could see a power plant in the distance. The journey took approximately 90 minutes and covered 56 kilometres.

    There is talk of reopening the 28 kilometres from Pocinho to Barca de Alva on the border with Spain.

    The train trip was wonderful and although it was somewhat cloudy and misty and at times raining, this adds to the atmosphere and fun of the journey. We went through numerous tunnels and I spent most of the trip with the window down and my head out. I have included a couple of short videos to give you a bit more of a feel for the train trip. The rain started to pick up and was raining heavily by the time we arrive at Peso da Regua. Here we waited for a taxi transfer to the town of Lamego.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2023Gezgin
    Gorgeous Hotel
    Very moderm but so comfortable and well designedSavoury Pastel de nata - deliciousCharcuterie Board for lunchAvocado and salmon sandwichWe had our own Kath and Kim on the tourIn Portugal we are drinking a PingoOriginal home in the foregroundLovely Pavillon which would be fabulous on a sunny dayLovely original tiles

    Lamego

    15 Ekim 2023, Portekiz ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    We arrived in the town of Peso da Regua and waited for our taxi transfer to the Renaissance and Baroque village of Lamego. The plan had been to be dropped off in the village and wander around it, and then head to our hotel. However, as it was raining, we headed straight to the hotel and, what a hotel it was, absolutely gorgeous. As our rooms weren’t ready we headed to the bar for a drink and some lunch. The revised plan was to go for a walk through the village later in the day when hopefully the rain will have eased.Okumaya devam et

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  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2023Gezgin
    The city gate into the old part of town
    Lots of uphill walking again!Lovely narrow streets in the historic townThe castle but it had just closedLovely old deli/bodegaA few strays were spotted on our walkMost od the group heading out of the old townOld artwork in the historic townLeaving the historic part of the townCathedralViews to the newer part of the town belowView to the church covered in cloud - made it very atmosphericMain BoulevardThe church and 600 stepsThe main boulevard leading up to the steps and the churchNossa Senhora de Remdios churchInside the churchThe tile behind the altar

    Discovering Lamego

    15 Ekim 2023, Portekiz ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    After a few false starts the rain started to ease so most of the group decided to walk into the centre of Lamego to check out the historic old town and other sites of the city. We almost immediately started heading up a steep path towards the old city walls. It is a lovely town with beautiful historic buildings and great views.

    We left the historic old town and walked up the main avenue towards Santuário de Nossa dos Remédios (an old church) which sits high up on a hill and requires you to walk up 600 steps. About half of the stairway was shrouded in mist, and the church wasn’t visible from the bottom. Only four brave (some would say crazy) members of the group were up for the task. Gabriele, Ian, Dan and Marie made the journey up to the top and the rest of us (some would say boozers) went to a bar to await their return.

    We then made the 30 minute walk back to our hotel to get ready for dinner.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2023Gezgin
    Lovely artwork in the dining roomThe dining roomSalmon CarpaccioSea BreamDuck with RisottoBeef CheeksMille-FeuilleOrange PuddingLemon and Blueberry PieDan very happy with his drink situation

    Group Dinner at Hotel Lamego

    15 Ekim 2023, Portekiz ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    As we had a very busy day we decided to eat at the hotel restaurant. Gabriele told us that the food there was very good and she was right. We had a lovely night, sitting at two separate tables. At our table, I had salmon carpaccio to start and sea bream as a main, as did Ian. Gabriele had the duck with risotto and Joanne and Marie had the beef cheeks. For dessert Ian, Joanne and Marie had the local orange pudding, Gabriele had the Mille-Feuille and I had the lemon and blueberry pie, which was the standout from my perspective.

    We had a relatively early night as we were travelling to a Port and Wine producer the following morning for a tour of their operations, followed by a tasting.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2023Gezgin
    Eduardo our guideThe original homeWood carving done by artist in residenceVineyards as far as the eye can seeMore ArtStorage barrels and tanksTanks still need to be cleaned with high power hoses5 star hotel and restaurantTasting getting underwayThe ports we triedWhite PortIan enjoying his tasting20 year old Tawny PortKathy having funIan running off with my white port

    Quinta da Pacheca

    16 Ekim 2023, Portekiz ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    After a fabulous breakfast (best of the tour) we got on the bus to return to Regua where we had a tour of the Quinta da Pacheca winery with Eduardo, followed by a tasting. We started off with a tour of the grounds and a bit of history about the winery. It is a beautiful property that has been very well maintained. There is a 5 star hotel and restaurant at the winery, and there are large wine barrels that have been made into stand alone rooms that you can sleep in among the vines. There is also a resident artist who has produced a number of pieces of art out of wood.

    The wine estate was established in 1738 and was run by a very competent woman, D. Mariana Pacheco Pereira. She had lost her husband and decided not to remarry and to run the vineyard herself instead.

    In 1903 the property was acquired by D. José Freire de Serpa Leitão Pimentel. The new owner carried out the first major replanting. The vineyards were divided by grape varieties, separated by wide paths to facilitate the work. The grape varieties then used were: Bastardo, Tinto Cão, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Amarela, Tinta Roriz and Tinta Barroca for reds, and Códega, Malvasia Fina, Malvasia Conrad’s, Cerceal, Donzelinho and Viosinho for white. So, quite a few varieties!

    In 1916, with new vines, the grape harvest increased which required the construction of new cellars and new stone tanks.

    In 1971 the second big boost was given by D. Eduardo Mendia Freire Serpa Pimentel, who replaced the older vineyards and started selling table wines. For several years, Riesling, Sauvignon and Gewurztraminer were tested and in 1971, 5,000 vines from each of these varieties were grafted.

    The vineyard manually stomps about 70% of the grapes. The tanks are made of granite and are about 100 years old:- 12,000kg of grapes produces 9,000 litres, which drains into fermentation tanks. Stomping happens for 3-4 hours, usually in the evening as the temperature drops. Eduardo said that if you decide you want to stomp grapes, be prepared to have purple feet for a couple of days post stomping.

    Wine remains in the tanks for seven days to ferment, whereas port only ferments for three days. There are four types of port - white, rosé, ruby and tawny. Port is aged in barrels and can be aged for 60+ years. Ruby can only remain in the barrel for 6 years.

    For our tasting we tried the Pacheca Reserva White, Pacheca Reserva Vinhas Velhas red, Pacheca White Port and the Pacheca Tawny Port 20 Anos. My favourite was the white port, which is served chilled. Eduardo also told us about a drink - Porto Tonica - which is white port, tonic water, ice and sliced orange, a very nice drink and would go down well on a hot day.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2023Gezgin
    The front gate
    The PalaceSleeping womanThe main entranceThe libraryWorld globes are made of paper machéLarge reception roomThe four seasons roomOne of the seasons paintingsOne of the 10th century rugsPainting in the religious relics roomReligious relicsHand carved puzzle desk in the ladies roomLovely fabric throughout the palaceThe 3rd Morgado of MateusThe dining roomView of the gardens from the dining roomThe palace and gardenMore of the gardenIan enjoying the meat pie

    Mateus Palace

    16 Ekim 2023, Portekiz ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Following our wine and port tasting we headed off in the direction of Porto, our final destination. On the way we made one more stop in Vila Real, a hilltop town above the confluence of the Corgo and Cabral rivers, to visit the Mateus Palace. We toured the stunning 18th century Baroque Palace and manicured gardens which were lovely, but just a little soggy!

    The Palace was built in 1743 by architect, Nicolau Nasoni. The three primary buildings are the palace, the winery and the chapel. The work was authorized by António José Botelho Mourão, 3rd Morgado of Mateus, who was quite the visionary. The current palace replaced the former family house which was built in the same location in the early 1600’s. In 1910, it was classified as a National Monument.

    There have been 16 generations in the house. Currently the 15th and 16th generations live there. Only one third of the U-shaped house is open to the public. We were able to visit the library, the large formal reception room, the dining room, the smoking room, the four seasons room, the religious room and the Ladies social room. Chestnut wood is used extensively throughout the house, most likely because the palace is situated in a chestnut tree forest and supplies were plentiful.

    In the library there are over 4,000 books, predominantly from the 15th century, hand written in French and illustrated. In one room there are religious relics that have been certified by the Vatican. Several of the ceilings are intricately carved chestnut and the furniture is from several periods. The paintings are mainly 17th & 18th century and many of the rugs are 10th century. There are numerous other treasures in the form of silverware, pottery and artwork scattered throughout the rooms.

    The dining room is still used by the family, mainly at Christmas and on other special occasions such as birthdays. There are four cupboards in the dining room but one is fake and has a staircase in it that leads to the kitchen that is situated directly below. There is a chef on staff and she bakes a range of things daily that are sold in the coffee shop. We had the small meat pies, savoury vegetable pies and cookies for lunch and they were all delicious.

    Parts of the garden had been planted in the 1700’s, modified in 1870 and expanded in 1930. In the 1950’s and 1960’s, the garden was extensively modified and the lake was added to act as a mirror reflecting the manor house. The sculpture of a woman “sleeping” in the water was created by João Cutileiro and installed in 1981.

    The name Mateus is synonymous with Mateus rosé, but there is no connection with the family. The name and image of the house was sold over 100 years ago to the group that produces Mateus rosé. The palace is currently owned by the Mateus Foundation.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Danielle and Co travelsEurope 2023Gezgin
    Church of Saint Ildefonso
    Majestic CaféRua de Santa CatarinaMarketFirst year University studentsGorgeous tile workJardin do Infante Dom HenriquePalácio da BolsaDown by the riverTime for a drinkKim being a gooseLovely dining right near the bridgePont Luis I2Angelic shotLooking back to PortoPort producersMonastery of Serra do PilarLooking down the river to the next bridgeFernandina Wall

    Porto Orientation Walk

    16 Ekim 2023, Portekiz ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    It was a two hour bus journey into Porto, our final destination of the tour. We were dropped off at our hotel and had a little break before heading out to explore the city with Gabriele and the group. We went past the Church of Saint Ildefonso which is across the road from our hotel. We walked down the main shopping strip in Porto, Rua de Santa Catarina, past all the gorgeous stores and iconic cafes such as the Majestic Café to Mercado Bolhāo, where we had the chance to have a quick look around this recently renovated market. The market is large, has been beautifully renovated and was a delight to wander around.

    I was constantly distracted by all the stunning tiles we passed on our walk. We next headed to Porto São Bento, a wonderful train station full of large scenes made from the traditional blue and white tiles. Unfortunately, the metro system in Porto is getting extended and upgraded so many of the city streets are being dug up, which is causing a nightmare for drivers and it is particularly messy around São Bento. We then walked Rua De Mouzinho Da Silveira towards Jardin do Infante Dom Henrique and into Ribera and the waterfront.

    We stopped for a drink at one of the many cafés beside the Douro river before heading across the bottom deck of Pont Luís I to Vila Nova de Gaia, where you get wonderful views back across the river to Porto. We then made our way through the back streets and alleyways back up to the bridge (climbing many stairs), past the Monastery of Serra do Pilar to cross back over the river on the top deck of the bridge and head to our dinner venue, a lovely traditional restaurant that specialises in chicken.    Okumaya devam et

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