Australia Sept-Dec 2023

September - December 2023
Flying into Melbourne to collect the motorhome, kitting the vehicle out, a couple of test camps, a course for 4x4 driving and recovery then off to the centre! Read more
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  • Day 11

    Grand Final Day

    September 30, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    The plan was to leave the farm, return to Ballarat to continue shopping for a few more items, spend the night camped on Carole’s drive and then leave on Sunday morning to see friends for lunch.

    First, we had to draft a couple of hundred sheep. That means separating one flock into two or more flocks - in our case, two; one for shearing and one that had already been sheared. Dale had already collected Molly, his brother’s working collie sheepdog, who would do most of the work. Elsie, the young Kelpy sheepdog would be around on a lead to observe and learn. Everything went to plan and the sheep were soon sorted out. Elsie had been allowed into the pen with Molly and me so that she could help drive the sheep through the race. She was very enthusiastic and of limited help.

    After sorting the sheep, Dale and I cleaned and filled an old bath with water for the sheep, went to collect the fire truck and also found an old compressor that Dale was giving us to take on our journey. Meanwhile, Bun was encouraging and helping Henry tidy his room while Charlotte made two batches of chocolate chip cookies and gave one batch to us. We said our goodbyes and set off knowing that, with reasonable sunshine and full water tanks, we could camp independently for several days.

    We drove to Ballarat to find that most of the shops that we wanted to visit were shut - something to do with ‘the grand final”. I left Bun shopping for more storage items etc and went to the first of three sports pubs that had been recommended as places where I could watch the match and enjoy the event. Murphy’s Bar was showing the match to about 6 people. I left and walked to the Sporting Globe which was far more lively. Upstairs was quite raucous, so I went to the bar bought a pint and sat on a free stool next to a couple a few years older than me. It wasn’t long before the bloke next to me turned around, asked me my name and introduced himself as Melvyn … or was it Mervin? Over the following 90 minutes, we became besties and reckoned we’d meet up somewhere on the road around Oz. He was more interested in telling me about his life in the army than watching the match, but he was good company and became very animated as the lead flip-flopped between the two teams. The final score put Melbourne’s Collingwood 10 points ahead of Brisbane’s team, so the locals were happy.

    I met up with Bun and we went to Carole’s for dinner, a film and bed. Meet up tomorrow at Macca’s.
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  • Day 12

    Lunch at the Yacht Club

    October 1, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    No one told us that the clocks went forward last night, fortunately, my phone knew so our alarm went off correctly, but mentally I was still asleep. That situation has remained now for several days. We had, what might possibly be our last shower in a bathroom for many weeks, then walked to Macca’s (McDs) to catch up with Carole. We walked back home with her, loaded Bill up and went off to visit Barbecues Galore to try and find something that would enable us to cook everything we needed while on the road. While Webber BBQs are probably the most well-known, there has been a recent change to BBQ legislation meaning that, if it is to be attached to a boat, camper, motorhome, caravan etc. the device must have an auto-shutoff. Weber has yet to manufacture their BBQs with this device and told us that they will cost $150 to retrofit. Ziggy, a competitor of theirs, produce a similar range with the shutoff installed. The question was, does it fit in Bill’s storage compartment? We spent time looking around the BBQ and I then had to go and fetch Bill from where it was parked. By the time I arrived back at the shop, we had run out of time before going to lunch - oh dear, never mind. We left BBQ-G and went to the yacht club via Carole’s to collect something we’d left. We arrived at the club just as John & Kerry were getting out of their car. However, we then had to get changed before going in for lunch, lucky we’d bought a house with us in which we could get ready.

    We hadn’t seen John & Kerry since we left Oz in April 2020. We had used them as a base when COVID started impacting our ability to travel, then selling Bertha etc.

    The yacht club was not the austere venue I was expecting, but a relaxed fast-food restaurant on the shores of Lake Wendouree. We had a lovely lunch and caught up on all that had happened over the intervening period. After lunch they came and had a look around Bill, Kerri said all of the right things!

    Once they left us, we needed to work out where we were staying that night. We found a McDonald's to jump onto their wifi, but that wasn’t working. The campsites we phoned didn’t pick up or were booked “until the end of the month”. One message just said not to leave a message as “I don’t know how to work them”. In the end, we decided to drive a few miles back towards the farm where there was a rural park with a campsite we were certain we could get in. The cost would be a $10 donation towards its upkeep. It had few facilities, toilets and showers. Unfortunately, a key was needed for the showers and neither of the caretakers answered their phones. Despite that, we had an enjoyable night albeit disturbed by wind and rain, and an introduction to the coming week’s weather.
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  • Day 13

    Ziggy

    October 2, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 24 °C

    The main task today was to buy the BBQ, provided we could fit it into the storage space at the back of Bill. We had a leisurely start to the day. The weather was warm and sunny, so we went for a walk around the campsite. Someone with two Kelpies was throwing an Aerobie-style ring for them to chase. They chased it, sometimes caught it, but hadn’t mastered retrieval and the guy had to keep fetching it himself. We came across another guy who was sitting on the steps of his motorhome drinking something from a cup. He was probably in his 70s, pretty unkempt and the MH looked like it would benefit from a good spring clean. He told us that he usually camped on his daughter’s block nearby in Snake Valley. Had been out to the pharmacist because he hadn’t received a letter from his medical consultant and was due to start some medication prior to a surgical procedure and hoped the pharmacist would be able to help. He was obviously wanting a longer chat than we wanted to allow him. I find these glimpses into peoples’ lives quite fascinating. We have an insight into, and understand, some of the challenges of not having a permanent home, but we have a great support structure that mitigates many of the challenges.

    We drove back to Ballarat and headed straight for “Barbecues Galore”, fitted the BBQ into Bill without too many problems, bought it and set off to (hopefully) finish off buying more storage boxes for Bill. While I find it difficult to envisage what is needed, Bun is fantastic. There is minimal movement of boxes, plates, etc when we travel about. I might have to do a sequence of photos when we have finished this project that shows how well the storage works - it'll be almost as fascinating as watching paint dry.

    With the weather looking pretty miserable for the rest of the week, we decided that sightseeing in Melbourne would be better than walking a mountain trail in the rain. We found a campsite at “Sundowner Rockbank Caravan Park” that was a 15-minute walk to a rail station for trains straight into Melbourne. We drove there in the afternoon gloom and when we were about 100 yards from the main gate, Bun reminded me of a comment in one of the reviews about the impossibility of turning into the caravan park due to traffic. The park is located on the westbound carriageway of the M8 Western Freeway, we were driving eastbound and had to cross the three lanes of traffic during rush hour with heavy traffic leaving Melbourne. We sat for maybe 5 mins before a sufficient gap appeared and we managed to get across. We are only 6m long, what chance would there be for a big rig?

    The site was crowded with lots of “permanents” (people who live permanently on the campsite in a range of ram-shackle residences, some old MH, caravans, containers, chalets etc) but the caravans and MH were separate from them. In the rain, Bill looked very sad on a campsite rather than free camping, however, showers and access to a laundry is an attraction, especially when rain is forecast for the next 3-4 days.

    On the way to the campground, I felt brave enough to refill Bill with diesel. He's fitted with a 140-litre fuel tank. Diesel is AUD2.20/L. Watching the cost mount up left me in tears - it looked just like it was really £250! Fortunately, it was only about £125, still, it was more than I'd ever spent on a refill.

    (Note to self - do not camp under trees. If it’s not leaves, branches etc falling onto the roof, birds crap all over the MH and, in the rain, the gentle pitter-patter of raindrops is interspersed with the occasional water bombs where rain has accumulated in the tree before falling like a small pebble onto the roof of the MH that, being fibreglass, makes a sound like a drum being hit - hard! We had a very disturbed night. We are booked in for two nights so if it continues to rain, we’ll have another bad night tomorrow.)
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  • Day 14

    Melbourne

    October 3, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    It rained all night and we both had disturbed sleep so we took a bit of time to get going. The temperature had also dropped overnight. Tuesday was set for cold, grey, wet and miserable just like English weather. We arrived at the rail station to find no staff. Tickets could not be purchased because they use a travel card system that is topped up with money in the same way as a London Oyster card works. After a couple of attempts, we managed to buy two cards and add sufficient funds for a return journey. When we arrived in Melbourne the card scanners at the exit gates didn’t read the cards so we had to go to the ticket attendant who told us that these new cards shouldn’t touch the reader - that sorted the problem. After a coffee and panko prawn sushi roll for Bun and something hideous for me, we set off wondering why we didn’t have an umbrella like everyone else in Melbourne. We walked to the Victoria Market, arriving at about 2, only to find that it was shutting at 3 p.m. The market wasn’t as exciting as it had been on our previous visit when we came during the evening and there were a lot of food stalls and musicians. We ventured out into the rain again and walked to the Melbourne Museum arriving soaked through. With only 1.5 hours before it shut, we didn't have time for a hot drink to warm us through. I was attracted to the areas dedicated to Aborigine culture and history that always leave me wondering about our humanity and how much knowledge we have lost and will further lose by not acknowledging the civilisation that lived in harmony with this country for more than 35,000 years - the longest known civilisation. One display was of a “scar tree” that had been found. These are trees that have scars left from having an area of bark removed for use in any number of ways - shields, canoes, utensils etc. The bark was harvested in a way that did not kill the tree. These days we appear to destroy anything just to get to something with no respect for living in harmony or balance. "This tree holds the knowledge of the past, the present and into tomorrow. It is related to my people, the Yalukit Weelam of the Boonwurrung. I invite you to learn from it with djil bruk (respect)." -Narweet Professor Carolyn Briggs AM.

    There were many other displays about the wealth of resources found and being plundered in Australia, fossils, history etc. A lovely couple of hours but not long enough for it to have stopped raining - so back into the rain again, albeit slightly less heavy. We walked back down into the centre and found ourselves in Chinatown. On 18 Feb 2020, as Covid was being reported as having come from China, I wrote “We’ve been told that many Australians are boycotting Chinese areas, which is pretty sad. However, I still didn’t understand where everyone was given the huge Chinese population we have seen .... maybe they are boycotting the area too?”. Today the streets were bustling and the restaurants and stalls were busy. We found a food mall where Bun had a pretty mediocre Prawn Laksa and I had a delicious Chicken Pad Thai. We then left (it was drizzling) and I had a brainwave - if I bought an umbrella, it was bound to stop raining. I found a shop selling umbrellas, bought one and, hey-presto, the rain stopped. Why hadn’t I thought of that earlier? The rest of the journey was uneventful and we arrived back at the caravan park around 8:15, leaving sufficient time for a shower, get some washing on and dried, then off to bed. One surprise was a box of kitchen utensils including pans etc, that was left in the laundry. This sometimes happens when people have upgraded or are coming to the end of a camping holiday. We picked up two saucepans and a good-sized frying pan with a lid. It started raining again as we got into bed and we had another disturbed night. Tomorrow we must camp in the open!

    We decided to give up on the idea that sightseeing in Melbourne would be better than walking a trail in the rain and decided that drinking coffee in a cafe, eating good food and generally not moving from the warmth would be better than the other two choices. We needed to be in Mount Evelyn (west of Melbourne) for a party on Sunday, so planned that tomorrow we’d head over to east Melbourne via a few stops.
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  • Day 15

    IKEA

    October 4, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    We are still waiting for our adventure to begin when we can get away and explore Oz as we had planned. So far we feel that we've spent a long time hanging around between seeing family and friends which, while it's been great, has been a bit frustrating. We are looking forward to after 20 October when we will be off to the great unknown - except we know it will be warmer!

    We had to vacate the campsite by 10:00 and needed to fill our water tanks and empty our toilet and grey water. None of this was difficult, just unpleasant in the rain. We left at about 10:15 and headed for Melton Botanic Gardens. “The Melton Botanic Garden has an easy 2.4 km walk which includes an interesting diversity of dry climate plants (mostly from Australia) and a circumnavigation of the Darlingsford Lake.” Probably lovely in the sunshine, and the “dry climate plants” looked happy enough in the rain. We met someone walking their dog who wanted to chat with us like we were long-lost friends. She was in full waterproofs and I didn’t even have my umbrella with me!

    Back to Bill and off to 4WD Supacentre (via Bunnings to return something that didn’t fit - plus a takeaway coffee) to find all the things we never knew we needed. I had high hopes that the 4WD place would be filled with gadgets and gizmos that would keep me occupied for hours and that I’d want to buy to kit out Bill with. Nope, all very mundane and pretty uninteresting. There was a pink swag with a matching pink sleeping bag that didn’t seem very Oz, but nothing of interest. Next stop … IKEA.

    Bun had wanted to come to IKEA first after collecting Bill as you can buy single plates, cutlery, see and touch all duvets etc. However, that would have required a 4-hour round trip and all savings would have gone in fuel costs. As it was, we couldn’t find most of what we wanted and extra things we saw that we thought would work well in Bill, they didn’t have in stock. It was a pretty disappointing visit but we did get a few things, so the visit wasn’t entirely wasted, plus it was en route to our campsite and we had food there so we wouldn't have to cook tonight.

    After two hours of driving into the mountains, we arrived at the “Kurth Kiln Scout Loop free camping” campsite. As the name states, a free campsite near Kuth Kiln but, unfortunately, in the woods. Despite our desire to camp in the open - or at least not under trees, that was going to be impossible. We were going to have another disturbed night with mega drips off the branches and leaves. The site was pretty vast and consisted of a number of looped dirt tracks through the forest. As we drove around to find a suitable place to camp, we could see people camping in an array of vehicles, under tarpaulins, tents etc. However, we were out of a commercial campsite and free camping again and Bill looked much more at ease in a forest.
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  • Day 16

    Kurth Kiln

    October 5, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Despite the occasional thump on Bill’s roof just above our bed from an enormous drip off the trees, we slept well. We set off around the track where we had camped and admired the ingenuity of some people with the semi-permanent shelters they’d made and the disappointment at some apparently vacated sites where the shelters and mess had just been left. Maybe the humans had been dragged off by a dingo and were being very unfair to them for not tidying before that happened. We drove to the kiln to learn about its history.

    At the start of WW2, Australia was totally reliant on imported fuel and had a limited storage capacity so the Government heavily rationed oil. An alternative fuel for tractors and cars was wood gas which could be created when charcoal was burnt. In 1942, the Australian Government “made an Order empowering the seizure of any dead wood on private property; if it be suitable for charcoal production and is wanted for that purpose.” “A wood gas generator is a gasification unit which converts timber or charcoal into wood gas, a producer gas consisting of atmospheric nitrogen, carbon monoxide, hydrogen, traces of methane, and other gases, which – after cooling and filtering – can then be used to power an internal combustion engine or for other purposes”. I recall that, while at school, I went caving a couple of times and used a “miners lamp” that used a reaction between water and something to produce a gas that was then lit to produce light … and burn the bum of the person in front of me! However, that was a carbide lamp rather than charcoal. (Carbide lamps are powered by the reaction of calcium carbide (CaC2) with water (H2O). This reaction produces acetylene gas (C2H2) which burns a clean, white flame.). Kurth Kiln was built to a design based upon the patented of Dr Ernest Edgar Kurth which continuously produced charcoal. It commenced operation in March 1942 but transport difficulties combined with an oversupply of charcoal from private operators meant the kiln was used only intermittently during 1943 and was shut down soon after. While charcoal was a good source of power, its use was not without issue: “As the charcoal was used, refilling the hopper became a drama, the lid was opened and you needed to look in to see how much charcoal was needed to be added at a certain period, which varied greatly; but generally when you had your head over the hopper a violent explosion took place covering you with flame, dust and charcoal. Drivers of cars fitted with gas producers could be readily recognised by their lack of frontal hair and eyebrows!”
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  • Day 16

    Dandenong Ranges Botanic Garden

    October 5, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    After the kiln, we drove over to the botanic gardens via the Puffing Billy Railway Station at Gembrook but unfortunately, it wasn’t running that day.

    The rain had mostly stopped but it was still grey and overcast. We have walked around many botanic gardens, I enjoy some while others leave me uninspired. This was one of the better ones. It was free to enter, it’s spring season here, so there were huge swathes of colour. OK, we’d missed the avenue of daffodils and cherry blossom, but the azaleas and rhododendrons were out and looked beautiful. Add some honeysuckle and a few magnolia and I was starting to be impressed. There was also the Chelsea Garden which is based on a design for the 2013 Chelsea Flower Show. This new garden was only opened in June 2023 and is twenty times larger than the Chelsea garden. For the 2013 show, the garden included the "Waratah sculpture that had been created specifically to deliver its premier view in accordance with the Queen's eye height of 5'3'' (160cm)." From that height, all of the pieces of metal are seen edge-on so as to maximise visibility through the structure. The garden aims to showcase native and endangered plants, sustainable design, water-wise features and the clever use of recycled materials. The huge stones are beautiful.Read more

  • Day 16

    Chris & Wendy’s

    October 5, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Wendy came to Oz as a £10 Pom with Carole (Bun’s sister), so Bun has known her since the mid-1970s when Carole and Wendy shared a house in the UK. They also lived together in Oz and, for a while, Mike (Bun’s brother) also lived with them with his wife Renate. It is Wendy’s 80th birthday party this coming Sunday so we wanted to be nearby. We had contacted Chris to ask about nearby campsites and he offered us to camp on his 4-acre property for as long as we wanted. Other than the fact that there is very little level ground on his property, it was perfect. We arrived during the late afternoon and set Bill up on a bit of slope, but our heads would be above our feet when we slept! We were invited in for dinner and, upon finding our dietary requirements, Chris had to quickly improvise as the planned menu was steak. Oh, how I dream of eating a lovely juicy, rare steak. The temperature was falling as we went to bed but, for the first night since it had been raining, we weren’t under trees. The faint pitter-patter of the rain on Bill was quite soothing.Read more

  • Day 17

    Karwara Arboretum, SkyHigh, Olinda Falls

    October 6, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Sleeping on that much of a tilt had not been a good idea. We'd spent so long chatting to Wendy & Chris that it was dark by the time we went to bed and, frankly, we couldn't be bothered to try to level Bill. During the night I found myself slipping downhill and had to push on the side of the truck to get back to where my pillow was. Note to self, level Bill tomorrow.

    Approx 9:00 we went into the house to join W&C for coffee/tea and then spent most of the morning chatting.

    To get some fresh air and get some exercise we first drove to Karwara Arboretum. This is a small garden in a little town. We walked around it for 30 minutes so went back to Bill, put the kettle on and made a warm drink and sandwiches for lunch.

    We then set off to SkyHigh at Mount Dandenong. In clear weather, this has amazing views across Melbourne and far-off ranges. Today it was pretty murky and not much more than the tall buildings of Melbourne's central business area could be made out. The location is a small, multi-purpose events venue. I felt that it did the bare required and everything was very superficial. the fact they didn't have any decaffeinated tea or coffee didn't win them prizes with Bun.

    In search of a bit of exercise, we then went on to Olinda Falls. There was a fire pit burning near the car park and a couple of guys were standing around it having a drink. We set off along the track to the falls but, despite the large amount of rain, they were not impressive. In the UK I don't think that they would have been marked as falls on an OS map. Nonetheless, we had a bit of exercise going down and back from the falls so went back to Mount Evelyn to the supermarket and bought some food for dinner. Chris & Wendy were out that evening so we parked up, and used the chocks in an attempt to level Bill, but it was not sufficient. Boz had heard us so came to investigate. He sat outside the truck and barked for a while and then he walked up the hill until he was at a level where he could look into our window and watch us; this he did for ten minutes before going back to the house.

    Another night on a slope.
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  • Day 18

    Mont De Lancey homestead

    October 7, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Again we went to the house for coffee/tea with C&W and also to discuss plans for today. We were invited to join them in meeting up with some friends that evening. We had plans to meet Bun's brother Mike, and his wife Renate that evening and, having temporarily forgotten that their visit to Melbourne to join tomorrow's party, was a secret from Wendy, I responded "That will depend upon what M&R's plans are." Chris then jumped in with "Are you FaceTiming them" and kicked Bun who was sitting closest to him. And so the story was created about how we FaceTimed M&R every Saturday evening when it was Saturday morning in England ...

    Pleased to get out of the house, we headed to Mont De Lancey, a historic homestead that was lived in by the Sebire family for many generations has "lots to see when you visit the property – the former milking shed, the slab kitchen on the original house site, the museum collection in the remodelled former farm buildings (which is home to over 5,000 eclectic objects, from egg whisks and butter churns to wedding dresses and pig scrapers), plus the historic dairy and chapel."

    There was a wedding taking place in the gardens when we arrived. There were no guides available so the gentleman in the office offered us the keys and asked if we were happy to show ourselves around. He explained the half-dozen keys and told us where the light switches were etc, and off we went.

    The main museum that contains the 5,000 eclectic objects was interesting to walk around. There were photos of the family throughout the generations plus photos of other families who had first settled in 1867.

    "Henry Sebire, his wife Martha and their four children settled in Wandin Yallock where Henry leased 80 acres of newly-surveyed Crown Land.

    As they began to build their farm, the hamlet of Wandin had literally only just been ‘put on the map’. The Sebires, along with a handful of other European families, had to fell trees and clear their land before they could build their homes. Henry built their first home using the timber he’d just felled.

    Fortunately for him, he was a former stonemason, so he and local labourers made bricks by hand, using clay quarried from the dam – Mont De Lancey became the first brick built house to be built in the district."

    After the homestead, we went to the Yarra Ranges Regional Museum in Lilydale. This was not hugely interesting except for a display about the Aborigine leader William Barak — 'Beruk' in the Woiwurrang language of his people. He became the leader of a number of clans and is closely associated with the Coranderrk settlement established near Healesville in 1863. The displays described the relationship between Barrak and Swiss emigrés, the Baron Frédéric Guillaume de Pury and his brother Samuel, whose Cooring Yering vineyard was next to the settlement. Barak was a regular visitor to the baron’s vineyard, Yeringberg – where three generations of the de Pury family still live today – and Barak taught the Baron’s young sons Wurundjeri culture, often taking the two boys out hunting. It appeared that Barak was treated as an equal, and the vineyard also employed some of the Aborigines. In the 1920s, many years after Barak's death, Coranderrk was closed by the authorities, and the land was sold off. In 1999, the Indigenous Land and Sea Corporation bought 80 hectares of the land and handed it back to the Wandoon Estate Aboriginal Corporation. Members of the Wandin family, descendants of Barak, now run the property as a working farm and cultural centre, open by invitation or appointment.

    So the Aborigines were thrown off their land where they had lived for maybe 35,000 years or more, and given a settlement. When the settlement became valuable to the Westerners, the authorities closed the settlement (threw the Aborigines off their land again) and sold it off for more vineyards. The vineyard that now farms some of the area covered by the Aborigine settlement of Coranderrk has the following on their website home page:

    "Centare Vineyard is located on Wurundjeri country, by Badgers Creek, approximately 4km from the central Yarra Valley township of Healesville. The land once formed part of the Coranderrk Station, an Aboriginal reserve run by the Victorian government between 1863 and 1924. The property has recently been included in a nomination for registration on the Victorian Heritage Register. We acknowledge the Wurundjeri Woi Wurrung People as Traditional Custodians of the Yarra Valley Wine Region and their connections to land, water and community. We pay our respects to their elders, past and present and extend that respect to all Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples today."

    Well that's good of them, they took the land, but they acknowledge them and respect them - just not enough to allow them to live where they always used to live.

    After the museum, we mooched around Lilydale and then made a cuppa in the back of Bill before driving to Castello's Croydon Hotel to meet Mike & Renate. This place surprised me on many levels. Firstly it wasn't a hotel but more akin to being part of the "Hungry Horse" chain of family-friendly pubs. A large uninspiring dining area, lots of families with young children, more food on the floor than on the table and a sound level to match. Fortunately, M&R had been put into an annexe with other "seniors" where it was much quieter. Secondly, the food was delicious. Bun and I each had a NASI GORENG, mine was chicken and Bun's was prawn, the best we've eaten outside of Malaysia. Thirdly, there was a seniors menu, but if your chosen meal wasn't on the senior's menu, you had a 20% discount!

    We had a lovely evening eating and chatting with M&R, catching up on the almost 4 years since we saw Renate and the 4 months since we saw Mike at Toby's wedding.
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