Turcja
Adıyaman

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    • Dzień 18

      Gorges

      5 maja, Turcja ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      Today the big question is which route will we take. We have no phone signal and we know there was a difference in suggested routes from Komoot (which applies cycling algorithms on top of open street map) and google maps (which in Turkey has no cycling option). A difference means we should pay attention. Komoot’s best route includes (possibly?) 15km of dirt road. As it is wet we need to be careful not to end up completely mud-stuck.
      At the critical junction, still no signal. A passing motorist advises the google route. So we take the much less likely looking komoot route!
      Aside: the turks keep telling us to take the “fast” dual-carriage ways and insisting that the mountain roads are not suitable for bicycles.

      With the added sense of adventure (will we make it through?) we follow a narrow and once-tarmacked remote road high up along the gorge. It’s up and down and steep and scary. The mountain villages seem very isolated. It is charming and hard work. It’s wonderful. And yes, indeed, we make it through.
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    • Dzień 20

      Nemrut

      7 maja, Turcja ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

      There is something very special about being up high and on top. Perhaps it is the sense of space and the perspective that it gives. And it is more so when there is a lot of time and work involved in getting there. And when the top is ancient and sacred.

      The very top of the Nemrut mountain is a huge pile of gravel. The burial mound of King Antiochus who ruled over the Commagene kingdom from 70 to 38 BC. The burial mound is flanked by 2 main terraces, each of which contained huge statues of the King together with the greek-persian Gods Zeus, Apollo, a goddess of fertility/fortune and Heracles. Flanked each end by a lion, representing the earth and an eagle, representing the skies. The 2 metre high heads are now toppled by earthquakes and erosions. They are an impressive and memorable sight that are hard to do justice to in photos.
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    • Dzień 90

      Adiyaman

      4 października 2022, Turcja ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

      Der Tag gestern, schlafen und im Bett bleiben hat sich gelohnt. Es geht wieder gut. Bin weitergefahren nach Adiyaman, nicht über die Bergdörfer, wie geplant sondern über die Schnellstraße um mich noch ein bisschen zu schonen. Schlafen im Hotel für 16 Euro. Erstaunlich sauber, mitten in der Stadt. Czytaj więcej

    • Dzień 13

      36 Grad und es wird noch heisser…

      1 sierpnia 2022, Turcja ⋅ 🌙 31 °C

      Morgens um 7 Uhr gestartet. Kein Kahvaltı (Frühstück), dafür aber noch Temperaturen von 27°C. Also los geht's. Erstes Ziel sind die Steingottheiten in Nemrut (Berg der Götter). Dort angekommen bricht bei Gisi der Hunger durch (sie wird dann ziemlich unleidlich.... besser vermeiden 😇) Unterhalb der Götter gibt's ein Lokal mit Frühstück (sehr leckeres Omelett!!) und danach beginnt der Aufstieg. Uns wurden 600m bis zum Ziel in Aussicht gestellt.... hmmmmja, verschwiegen wurde dabei das Wörtchen  "bergauf" 😖. Aber hat sich gelohnt!

      Euphrat und Tigris... Zweistromland und Mesopotamien..., ei, das waren doch nur Worte aus dem Geschichts- oder Erdkundeunterricht. Und heute sind wir drin geschwommen in dem Unterricht. Dennoch, Fluss bleibt Fluss und Wasser bleibt Wasser, gleichgültig was ich mir Tolles einbilde... eine herrliche Abkühlung war's 👍👍👍

      Danach gilt:
      Erst baden im Euphrat, dann wieder bei 41°C im eigenen Saft.
      (Pulled pork wird, glaube ich, auch nicht heisser gegart, oder?)

      Überall und bei jeder Gelegenheit wird uns Çai (Tee) angeboten, wir müssen nur genug doof und schlapp gucken. Dabei werden wir stets freundlich-neugierig gefragt, woher wir kommen und ob wir verheiratet sind. Dank Übersetzungsgerät sind informativere Gespräche möglich und wir erfahren einiges über Land und Leute.
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    • Dzień 44–45

      Am Thron der Götter

      8 maja, Turcja ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

      Doch nochmal Kultur!
      Ein monumentales Grabheiligtum in luftiger Höhe. Auf 2150 m Höhe ließ Antiochos I. (69 - 36 v. Chr.) den Berg zu einer Spitze aufschütten und 8-10 m große Götterstatuen und Skulpturen errichten. Obwohl seine Existenz bekannt ist, wurde das Königsgrab bis heute nicht entdeckt.

      Besonders beliebt ist es, den Sonnenauf- bzw. Untergang hier oben zu erleben. Das ließen wir uns natürlich nicht zweimal sagen, fuhren bis auf knapp 2000 m hoch und gingen die restlichen Meter auf bequem gepflasterten Weg empor. Obwohl es immer windiger und kälter wurde, harrten wir aus, bis die Sonne hinter den Bergen verschwand. In dem wunderschönen Sonnenuntergangslicht verströmten die Götterstatuen eine verzauberte Stimmung.
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    • Dzień 60

      D60 Turkey - Darende to Kahta Homestay

      2 września 2019, Turcja ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

      A Snapshot of Our Day

      Photo 1 - On the drive from Darende to Kahta we saw dozens of tobacco fields, and many locals gathering their harvest. This region is well known for tobacco and for dried apricots, which cost next to nothing!

      Photo 2 - I am loving the change in scenery; it’s very dry and today as we lowered in altitude it’s getting much hotter again, but I find the passing fields mesmerising. It reminds me of a Jinja Safari album cover, so naturally that’s who I chose as a driving soundtrack.

      Photo 3 - It’s was Brent’s birthday today so at lunch Mete “surprised” him with a HUGE chocolate cake! Almost as good as a mud cake from Woolies! It had caramelised chestnuts throughout it and it didn’t last long between 11 of us!

      Photo 4 - Mete had told us that the family that will host us tonight for the homestay are considerably poor, and are almost 100% living off their own land. We bought them a few practical gifts before we arrived, like washing powder, school supplies etc, as they are providing us with dinner, breakfast and beds to sleep in. Their house is a large two storey building, very basic in design with minimal furniture and lighting, with the kitchen doubling up as a laundry. Out the front of the large upstairs deck they have small capsicums, chillies and hollowed eggplants sun drying for use throughout the year.

      Photo 5 - Plan A was to walk into the small nearby village and then to visit the family’s fruit fields. But we spent so long chatting, drinking tea and playing cards that we lost track of time! Plan B meant everyone being loaded into the family’s tractor, which was much more fun! Bumpy, but fun.

      Photo 6 - The gang admiring the grapes; the two youngest boys were constantly running around looking for grapes to feed us with.

      Photo 7 - Perfect organically grown grapes, warmed by the sun and devoured in seconds. We were all at capacity by the time we left, and that was before we got to the fig trees! The family don’t make wine, instead they produce grape molasses which they sell locally.

      Photo 8 - I was too full but Ant really enjoyed his fresh fig, probably too much.

      Photo 9 - Our host mother prepared for us a generous meal of lentil soup, vegetable stew, chicken with rice (we noticed a couple of chickens missing) and freshly cooked gozleme. We were given ayran to drink (yoghurt water with a pinch of salt) which acts as a probiotic and is perfect at settling a travellers stomach. The 4 younger kids rushed around to set the table which hardly took them any time; with they are clearly well trained and very used to visitors now!

      Video 1 - The youngest child, and only daughter, Fathima is 8 years old and didn’t take too long to warm up to the crowd. It started with card games earlier today and then graduated to pure hilarity and nonsense tonight. She really loved Ant and he had a great time teasing her and also helping her with her limited English. She was like a little parrot and picked things up very easily - everyone got an “I loooove yoooou!” before we went to sleep.
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    • Dzień 145

      Exhausting climbs to ancient cities

      21 października 2020, Turcja ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      Today, more sights were waiting for us to explore, so we left early - as most days. Our first stop was Arsamaia, in Mount Nemrut National Park. It's located on a hill and we had to cycle up a very steep road to get there. However, it was a super interesting place: an ancient city (over 2200 years old) where you can still see a cave used for food storage, a 156m-long tunnel and the ruins of the houses. It is most known for two reliefs, one of King Antiochos and Herakles shaking hands and one of the Sun God Mithras. We could also see Arsemia castle from here, a castle built on a narrow rock. Plus, the views of the surrounding mountains were stunning.
      Next on our route was Cendere Bridge, a Roman bridge dating back to the 3rd century. We stopped here for breakfast and enjoyed the scenery. Many dogs of all ages (including 4 young puppies 😍) joined us and hoped for some snacks.
      After some more exhausting kilometres on steep rolling roads, we found a Lahmacun bakery in one of the small villages. The owners were very friendly and told us about the tobacco industry in the area. Most people around Adıyaman work in this field as it's good money. At this time, dried tobacco plants are hanging everywhere - in shops, bakeries, sheds. People are waiting for rain to be able to pack it.
      In the North of Adıyaman, we stopped at the ancient city of Pirin. It was excavated just over 10 years ago. The area is huge and you can easily walk around the ruins. Most of the excavated area is the former Necropolis, so you see a lot of graves. It's impressive how well this 2000 year old city is preserved. It was carved into the rocks and during the excavation they basically just took out the dirt.
      We then continued to the centre of Adıyaman where many people talked to us. Again, we experienced Kurdish hospitality at its best. Hasan welcomed us in a friend's apartment and took us out for dinner and tea with a couple of friends. Afterwards, we had a short stroll through the shopping centre before going back to the apartment. His friend Hakan is a phd student in music and played some traditional music for us on the instrument called bağlama.
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    • Dzień 146

      Day to relax

      22 października 2020, Turcja ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      After those exhausting days in the mountains, we decided to have a rest day in Adıyaman. There's not much to see in the city, so we spent the day eating, drinking coffee and tea and meeting people. Hasan and Apo were amazing hosts and took is to all those nice places. Czytaj więcej

    • Dzień 144

      Crossing River Euphrates

      20 października 2020, Turcja ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

      Next try: after 14km on the highway, we had enough of the busy highway and turned into secondary roads. What a great choice! We could cycle on decently paved roads with no traffic, nice scenery and many sheep and cows. A bit on the exhausting side with some steep hills, but we enjoyed it.
      We cycled all around the East side of Atatürk Lake until we crossed a fancy new bridge at the North of the lake. This is where River Euphrates comes into the lake. So after the Tigris near Diyarbakır, we now saw the other one of the two important rivers of Mesopotamia.
      The rest of our cycling day was exhausting. We could feel we were low on calories, there was just nothing on the way and the white bread and snacks just wasn't enough. However, we made it to Damlacık, where we wanted to stay for the night. Just before the last corner, the landscape changed dramatically all of a sudden. From smooth hills to rough mountains and volcanoes. What a view!
      The owner of the campground was super nice. Even though we asked (and paid) for a campsite, he offered us a room with a bed and an ensuite bathroom. We accepted the offer but still cooked our dinner in their garden, surrounded by apple and pomegranate trees, cows, hens and a squirrel.
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    • Dzień 61

      D61 Turkey - Kahta Homestay to Mt Nemrut

      3 września 2019, Turcja ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

      A Snapshot of Our Day

      Photo 1 - All but two of us opted to sleep outside overnight as it was way too stuffy inside the house. It was the windiest night I’ve ever experienced in the outdoors, and that combined with the unmilked cow mooing and local cats fighting made for a not so successful night of sleeping. But as soon as the sun started to rise, the wind stopped and we could enjoy an hour of calmness.

      Photo 2 - A perfect Turkish breakfast, balanced out with chips of course! It was SO GOOD!

      Photo 3 - Everything on the breakfast table was grown and prepared on this land, down to the homemade cheese and grape molasses (Ant could have drunk cupfuls if there was enough!). The kids kept themselves busy with filling up everyone’s tea glasses and running around laughing at themselves!

      Photo 4 - The small village of Kahta from the rooftop.

      Photo 5 - Ahbrahim and his beautiful family (the eldest boy was probably already out working in the fields already!) were so good to us, and even with communication barriers we felt right at home with them. Mete told us that the family knew the owner of the transportation company that Intrepid uses for their tours, and had been hosting tour groups for the last 2 years.

      Photo 6 - Hiking up to the peak of Mount Nemrut, which stands at 2132m above sea level.

      Photo 7 - Loving any chance to sit in the shade in this intense midday heat!

      Photo 8 - He’s on top of the world!

      Photo 9 - Mete, Brent, Terry, Ant and I enjoying some wine and chats while we wait for the sun to set on the west side of Mount Nemrut.

      Photo 10 - Another day, and another beautiful Turkish sun has set on us. We were all a bit sad tonight as tomorrow we’ll be flying back to Istanbul and will be losing a couple of people from the group earlier than expected!
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