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    • Gün 12

      Tag 12

      5 Haziran, Türkiye ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

      Heute gibt's nich viel zu erzählen... war n ziemlich bescheidener Tag😔🙄 erst fand ich die Tenere wieder mit einem Platten vor und dann blieb der Versuch den Schlauch zu flicken blieb leider erfolglos, da dieser am Ventil gerissen ist... netterweise haben die Besitzer des Hotels das Rad mitgenommen um den Schlauch wechseln zu lassen...leider ging dabei eine Distanz verloren,sodass sie am Abend nochmal in die Werkstatt fahren mussten...zum Glück fanden sie dort die Distanz und ich konnte das Rad wieder montieren...
      Tagsüber konnte ich leider gar nichts machen,da sich die letzten Tage Dehydration gewaltig bemerkbar machten...kurzzeitig dachte ich dass ich wieder heimfahr🤦‍♂️🙈 Poolen fiel also auch flach...
      mehrere Liter Wasser später ging es dann aber wieder leicht bergauf...zum Abendessen gönnte ich mir noch ein Bierchen zum Wiederaufbau 🤷‍♂️
      Das einzig positive des Tages war, dass meine sämtlichen Klamotten und meine Stiefel gewaschen wurden 🙈😁

      Hoffentlich wars das jetzt mit Pannen und die nächsten Tage werden besser 🥶
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 90

      Adiyaman

      4 Ekim 2022, Türkiye ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

      Der Tag gestern, schlafen und im Bett bleiben hat sich gelohnt. Es geht wieder gut. Bin weitergefahren nach Adiyaman, nicht über die Bergdörfer, wie geplant sondern über die Schnellstraße um mich noch ein bisschen zu schonen. Schlafen im Hotel für 16 Euro. Erstaunlich sauber, mitten in der Stadt.Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 13

      36 Grad und es wird noch heisser…

      1 Ağustos 2022, Türkiye ⋅ 🌙 31 °C

      Morgens um 7 Uhr gestartet. Kein Kahvaltı (Frühstück), dafür aber noch Temperaturen von 27°C. Also los geht's. Erstes Ziel sind die Steingottheiten in Nemrut (Berg der Götter). Dort angekommen bricht bei Gisi der Hunger durch (sie wird dann ziemlich unleidlich.... besser vermeiden 😇) Unterhalb der Götter gibt's ein Lokal mit Frühstück (sehr leckeres Omelett!!) und danach beginnt der Aufstieg. Uns wurden 600m bis zum Ziel in Aussicht gestellt.... hmmmmja, verschwiegen wurde dabei das Wörtchen  "bergauf" 😖. Aber hat sich gelohnt!

      Euphrat und Tigris... Zweistromland und Mesopotamien..., ei, das waren doch nur Worte aus dem Geschichts- oder Erdkundeunterricht. Und heute sind wir drin geschwommen in dem Unterricht. Dennoch, Fluss bleibt Fluss und Wasser bleibt Wasser, gleichgültig was ich mir Tolles einbilde... eine herrliche Abkühlung war's 👍👍👍

      Danach gilt:
      Erst baden im Euphrat, dann wieder bei 41°C im eigenen Saft.
      (Pulled pork wird, glaube ich, auch nicht heisser gegart, oder?)

      Überall und bei jeder Gelegenheit wird uns Çai (Tee) angeboten, wir müssen nur genug doof und schlapp gucken. Dabei werden wir stets freundlich-neugierig gefragt, woher wir kommen und ob wir verheiratet sind. Dank Übersetzungsgerät sind informativere Gespräche möglich und wir erfahren einiges über Land und Leute.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 92

      Chabinas-Brücke

      6 Ekim 2022, Türkiye ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

      Cendere Restaurant und Camping. Eine kleine Welt. Immer neue Touristenbusse kommen, Omar der Besitzer hat alles (nicht richtig) im Griff. So viele Touristen wie möglich müssen mit Tee und Getränken versorgt werden.
      Am Fluss ist Camping verboten. Sehr wahrscheinlich, dass es Omar war, der bei Einbruch der Dunkelheit die Polizei gerufen hat. Jedenfalls hatte er dann mit einem Mal einige Übernachtungsgäste. Auch ein Filmteam aus Istanbul drehte auf der Brücke. Ich war mit meinem Fahrrad ein kleiner Teil der Story.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 60

      D60 Turkey - Darende to Kahta Homestay

      2 Eylül 2019, Türkiye ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

      A Snapshot of Our Day

      Photo 1 - On the drive from Darende to Kahta we saw dozens of tobacco fields, and many locals gathering their harvest. This region is well known for tobacco and for dried apricots, which cost next to nothing!

      Photo 2 - I am loving the change in scenery; it’s very dry and today as we lowered in altitude it’s getting much hotter again, but I find the passing fields mesmerising. It reminds me of a Jinja Safari album cover, so naturally that’s who I chose as a driving soundtrack.

      Photo 3 - It’s was Brent’s birthday today so at lunch Mete “surprised” him with a HUGE chocolate cake! Almost as good as a mud cake from Woolies! It had caramelised chestnuts throughout it and it didn’t last long between 11 of us!

      Photo 4 - Mete had told us that the family that will host us tonight for the homestay are considerably poor, and are almost 100% living off their own land. We bought them a few practical gifts before we arrived, like washing powder, school supplies etc, as they are providing us with dinner, breakfast and beds to sleep in. Their house is a large two storey building, very basic in design with minimal furniture and lighting, with the kitchen doubling up as a laundry. Out the front of the large upstairs deck they have small capsicums, chillies and hollowed eggplants sun drying for use throughout the year.

      Photo 5 - Plan A was to walk into the small nearby village and then to visit the family’s fruit fields. But we spent so long chatting, drinking tea and playing cards that we lost track of time! Plan B meant everyone being loaded into the family’s tractor, which was much more fun! Bumpy, but fun.

      Photo 6 - The gang admiring the grapes; the two youngest boys were constantly running around looking for grapes to feed us with.

      Photo 7 - Perfect organically grown grapes, warmed by the sun and devoured in seconds. We were all at capacity by the time we left, and that was before we got to the fig trees! The family don’t make wine, instead they produce grape molasses which they sell locally.

      Photo 8 - I was too full but Ant really enjoyed his fresh fig, probably too much.

      Photo 9 - Our host mother prepared for us a generous meal of lentil soup, vegetable stew, chicken with rice (we noticed a couple of chickens missing) and freshly cooked gozleme. We were given ayran to drink (yoghurt water with a pinch of salt) which acts as a probiotic and is perfect at settling a travellers stomach. The 4 younger kids rushed around to set the table which hardly took them any time; with they are clearly well trained and very used to visitors now!

      Video 1 - The youngest child, and only daughter, Fathima is 8 years old and didn’t take too long to warm up to the crowd. It started with card games earlier today and then graduated to pure hilarity and nonsense tonight. She really loved Ant and he had a great time teasing her and also helping her with her limited English. She was like a little parrot and picked things up very easily - everyone got an “I loooove yoooou!” before we went to sleep.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 20

      Nemrut

      7 Mayıs, Türkiye ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

      There is something very special about being up high and on top. Perhaps it is the sense of space and the perspective that it gives. And it is more so when there is a lot of time and work involved in getting there. And when the top is ancient and sacred.

      The very top of the Nemrut mountain is a huge pile of gravel. The burial mound of King Antiochus who ruled over the Commagene kingdom from 70 to 38 BC. The burial mound is flanked by 2 main terraces, each of which contained huge statues of the King together with the greek-persian Gods Zeus, Apollo, a goddess of fertility/fortune and Heracles. Flanked each end by a lion, representing the earth and an eagle, representing the skies. The 2 metre high heads are now toppled by earthquakes and erosions. They are an impressive and memorable sight that are hard to do justice to in photos.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 18–20

      À l'assaut du Mt NEMRUT

      5 Mayıs, Türkiye ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Nous finissons notre virée dans les gorges auprès d'un pont romain érigé par l'empereur Septime Sévère sur les gorges de la rivière Cendere. Faute de mieux, nous plantons la tente à coté, aux bons(?) soins des marchands de souvenirs, et repartons de bon matin. Il fait un temps maussade, mais le jeu des brumes et du soleil dans les montagnes est prometteur.

      Une copie du pont romain a été réalisée au XII ème sciècle par les Seljuks, dans un décors grandiose, ce qui nous encourage: le but que nous nous sommes fixés est d'arriver aussi haut que possible dans l'ascension du Mont Nemrut (2134m), pour pouvoir y arriver le matin et éviter la pluie prévue aujourd'hui.

      Nous partons d'environ 600m. La route a été aménagée par le parc national pour être très belle pour un touriste en bus... mais pas du tout facile pour un vélo! Elle est en pavés et la pente doit atteindre par endroits plus de 15%.

      Nous nous accrochons, et arrivons vers 1500m, à l'heure où il est convenable de planter la tente quand la pluie menace... Un troupeau de chèvres vient nous rend une petite visite.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 61

      D61 Turkey - Kahta Homestay to Mt Nemrut

      3 Eylül 2019, Türkiye ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

      A Snapshot of Our Day

      Photo 1 - All but two of us opted to sleep outside overnight as it was way too stuffy inside the house. It was the windiest night I’ve ever experienced in the outdoors, and that combined with the unmilked cow mooing and local cats fighting made for a not so successful night of sleeping. But as soon as the sun started to rise, the wind stopped and we could enjoy an hour of calmness.

      Photo 2 - A perfect Turkish breakfast, balanced out with chips of course! It was SO GOOD!

      Photo 3 - Everything on the breakfast table was grown and prepared on this land, down to the homemade cheese and grape molasses (Ant could have drunk cupfuls if there was enough!). The kids kept themselves busy with filling up everyone’s tea glasses and running around laughing at themselves!

      Photo 4 - The small village of Kahta from the rooftop.

      Photo 5 - Ahbrahim and his beautiful family (the eldest boy was probably already out working in the fields already!) were so good to us, and even with communication barriers we felt right at home with them. Mete told us that the family knew the owner of the transportation company that Intrepid uses for their tours, and had been hosting tour groups for the last 2 years.

      Photo 6 - Hiking up to the peak of Mount Nemrut, which stands at 2132m above sea level.

      Photo 7 - Loving any chance to sit in the shade in this intense midday heat!

      Photo 8 - He’s on top of the world!

      Photo 9 - Mete, Brent, Terry, Ant and I enjoying some wine and chats while we wait for the sun to set on the west side of Mount Nemrut.

      Photo 10 - Another day, and another beautiful Turkish sun has set on us. We were all a bit sad tonight as tomorrow we’ll be flying back to Istanbul and will be losing a couple of people from the group earlier than expected!
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 18

      Gorges

      5 Mayıs, Türkiye ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      Today the big question is which route will we take. We have no phone signal and we know there was a difference in suggested routes from Komoot (which applies cycling algorithms on top of open street map) and google maps (which in Turkey has no cycling option). A difference means we should pay attention. Komoot’s best route includes (possibly?) 15km of dirt road. As it is wet we need to be careful not to end up completely mud-stuck.
      At the critical junction, still no signal. A passing motorist advises the google route. So we take the much less likely looking komoot route!
      Aside: the turks keep telling us to take the “fast” dual-carriage ways and insisting that the mountain roads are not suitable for bicycles.

      With the added sense of adventure (will we make it through?) we follow a narrow and once-tarmacked remote road high up along the gorge. It’s up and down and steep and scary. The mountain villages seem very isolated. It is charming and hard work. It’s wonderful. And yes, indeed, we make it through.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 18

      The pebble pouch

      5 Mayıs, Türkiye ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Alice is now carrying a newly created pebble pouch on her front handlebars. Carefully sewn from a discarded workmans glove found on the side of the road. Containing 3 medium sized not at all special pebbles. That she sincerely hopes not to need.

      Ammunition.

      Turkish dogs do not get a good press with cyclists. And with justification. At best they are a nuisance. At worst they are downright terrifying. This year we have had much more difficulty with dogs ie more serious aggression. We are in more remote areas and they are less accustomed to wierd cyclists passing through.

      Broadly speaking there are 2 main categories (and 2 main breeds) of dogs.
      The wild strays are typically noisy and playful but basically gentle and good natured. Its a bit daunting cycling through a gang of them. And they are a pain when we are camping as they tend to “adopt” us and sit by the tent all night. Try eating breakfast with 7 dogs and 2 cats in tow.

      The guard-dogs, whether for property, sheep or cattle are in a different league. They are big and strong and clearly not to be messed with. It is not advised to try to pedal away fast as they are even faster. Which means, counter intuitively, slowing down or stopping to face and deal with them. So far I have had one dog grab my pannier strap (and break the clip) and another bite or bump the pannier. Its really scary but I am so glad it was not my leg. Alain had his tyre bit (but with no damage). We have had several episodes where we have had to stop and walk to get past …its very daunting. We have come out the other side complete but quite shaken.

      Alain is doing well at Shhh -ing the dogs. Leaning down to pick up a stone also seems to deter. Next comes throwing a stone (hence a pouch, in case there are none to pick up). We ideally throw to miss, but if need be to hit.

      We asked the locals what to do. They said “Are you afraid?”, us: “Yes”, them: “We are afraid too….Maybe throw stones?…”. Oh well.

      I am so very grateful for our rabies jabs (just praying that they are not needed).

      Wish us luck (a lot of it).
      Okumaya devam et

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