A trip 17 years in the planning. Read more
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  • 1countries
  • 23days
  • 270photos
  • 9videos
  • 10.4kkilometers
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  • 3.4kkilometers
  • 200kilometers
  • 80sea miles
  • 23sea miles
  • 41kilometers
  • Day 7

    The vastness of Kalbarri

    April 12, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Travelling along the western coast of Australia it gives a great appreciation for the vastness of the this magnificent country. Coming from the most densely populated cities in the country we have become used to seeing every square metre of land taken up for some sort of use. But here in Western Australia there are areas that you can see 'nothing' for as far as the eye can see, in all directions along a relatively flat 'wasteland' save for a few gorges and small mountains that really just extend further into the distance. The entire Sydney Basin could easily fit in some of these areas. And it isn't just on land, but also out to sea where these is nothing to be seen but rolling waves all the way to the horizon (easier to see from a nice high cliff face like the Red Bluff). This great vastness makes you realise that our place in the world is really just a mere speck.
    Having spent some time in the middle of The Pinnacles Desert during the night, with the Milky Way opening up before us it is clear that our planet is also a mere speck in the Universe - but a damn important one to the only known living things in the Universe. And that mere speck also relates to the fourth dimension of time (for our quantum physicists).
    Today we went to the Kalbarri National Park, which is 1830 square kilometres and has the Murchinson River cutting a gorge through it for 80km until it reaches the Indian Ocean in the township of Kalbarri. The river is currently a milk coffee brown and quickly flowing following flooding (the last major flood was in October 2022). We visited two locations in the National Park - the Skywalk and Nature's Window.
    But before we got to the Skywalk we had to drive around 30km through some malle scrub. We took the opportunity to pull over and stop and appreciate & photograph some of the vegetation in the area - some banksias, sedges and grass trees. Whilst this area may look like there is nothing there, it really is very diverse - in fact, as diverse as some rainforests and it has been called a 'knee high rainforest'. There are over 12,000 native species, representing 10% of the Western Australia The area isn't as densely vegetated as a rainforest, with clear pockets of sand between trees and within these pockets of sand the tracks of kangaroos can be seen. One of the plants, a Banksia, reminds us of the Banksia serata found on the East Coast. Michael found out that the grass trees can bite back, getting 5 splinters from one.
    After about an hour we continued on to the Kalbarri Skywalk - two gantries that extend 30 metres into the air over the Murchinson River, 100 metres below. The river has cut it's way through the Tumblagooda sandstone over the past 400 million years and has helped reveal the ripples of ancient floodplains and the trails of now extinct ancient arthropod's tracks that existed 200 million years ago.
    A short drive away, Nature's Window is a rock formation which aligns with the Murchinson's River in the distance. A short walk takes you over many rocks that clearly show the ripples of the ancient floodplain. Not much that we do today will be around in 200 million year's time - but these little arthropods managed to do something as cool as that.
    A 9 kilometre walk around the ridge of the gorge and down to the banks of the river was closed due to the flooding, but we still managed to find a spot where we could descend and dip our toes into the Murchinson River.
    Afterwards we wanted to go to a renowned snorkelling spot - Blue Holes. But with Tropical Cyclon Ilsa up near Port Headland, the winds have been picking up around here and the snorkelling spot was more like a surf beach. We hope to visit it tomorrow morning in calmer conditions (Isla has now crossed the coastline) before we head to Wooramel Station.
    We finished the day watching the sun set over the Indian Ocean from the Red Bluff lookout - although clouds on the horizon didn't give us the spectacular finish we were hoping but were a warning of the rainy and windy night that lay ahead.
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  • Day 9

    Kalbarri to Wooramel

    April 14, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Kalbarri sits at the mouth of the Murchison River. As we leave the caravan park and come over the crest of a hill we are met with a unique view. Brown flood water pours from the mouth of the Murchison into the blue Indian Ocean, roaring into shore pushed by Cyclone Ilsa which made landfall north of Port Hedland.
    The road out of Kalbarri stretches in a straight line ahead of us, 2 lanes of grey framed by red/orange gravel. Either side of the road Mallee scrub stretches to the horizon. Suddenly, an emu paces out of the scrub, nearly runs into the car ahead of us, then turns and runs back into the scrub! Phew!
    By the time we get to the main highway north, we are back to travelling through farmland. As we head north the roadside gravel changes from orange to deep rusty red and the scrub changes to low, scraggly gum trees.
    After travelling close to 100 km of variously sparse, sandy landscape suddenly we are surrounded by low, abrupt hills. We surge up a hill to a lookout and gaze out across the flat expanse all the way to the sea. We have found Woodleigh Impact Crater. This is believed to be the 4th largest impact crater in the world! Most of the impact is underground so the exact size is unknown. The crater is believed to be up to 120 km in diameter, created by a meteor between 6-12 m wide, around 364 million years ago.
    We finally make it to Wooramel Riverside Retreat without hitting any of the goats or sheep wandering along the side of the road, and without losing any wine bottles along the extremely bumpy entrance road.
    Wooramel is a working goat and cattle farm. The river is usually underground, but we are fortunate that our visit coincides with the few times in a year that there has been sufficient rain for the river to flow above ground.
    The riverbed is maybe 100 m wide of soft, red, ripple-patterned sand. In parts, find brownish silt has dried into curls that crackle under foot. Beautiful mature gum trees with white bark and narrow leaves are dotted across the river bed, and flank either side. A flock of galahs fly down to the shallow river to drink, then fly off again, shrieking, as the kids shriek with laughter racing thongs on the river.
    After soaking in the artesian bore pools at a very pleasant 34C, Daniel gets a fire going in the fire pit – an old truck wheel frame – and we cook potatoes, corn cobs and sausages on the open fire for dinner. The kids demolish a giant bag of marshmallows, toasting them over the coals and trying to spot satellites moving through the millions of stars overhead. We see a strange triangular shape moving through the night sky – we find out the next day this was European Space Agency’s Jupiter Icy Moons Explorer 2nd stage rocket booster fuel plume!
    Daniel and Fiona get creative photographing the Milky Way from the river bed before we all retire for the night ahead of another long day’s driving tomorrow.
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  • Day 10

    Wooramel to Exmouth

    April 15, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 25 °C

    The mature gums along the Wooramel River are a contrast to the scrub plains as we continue on our journey north. We spot a couple of emus on the side of the road as we drive.
    We convoy up to Carnarvon where we plan on stocking up on groceries before the last leg to Exmouth , our base for the next week. We pass flood level indicator signs marked up to 2 m. The surrounding land is so flat, floods here would be like an inland sea. The floodway is little more than bare sand with a few clumps of grey grass.
    As we come into the outskirts of Carnarvon we notice the fire risk indicator sign also has a cyclone risk indicator tacked onto the top. Today’s cyclone risk is listed as ‘all clear’. Good to know!
    On the road into Carnarvon a 30 m satellite dish sits up on a hill. This is the site of the OTC Satellite Earth Station, now the Carnarvon Space and Technology Museum commemorating the OTC Station and nearby Carnarvon Tracking Station. The Tracking Station was commissioned in 1964 to support NASA’s Gemini, Apollo and Skylab programs and operated until 1975. The OTC Station opened in 1966 as part of the global satellite communications system. While the Parkes dish transmitted tv footage of the Apollo 11 moon landing in 1969, the Carnarvon dish transmitted radio communications and played an important role in the success of the mission. The OTC station has been decommissioned for radio communications but still operates as part of a global solar measurement network.
    The museum experience starts with a simulation of the Apollo 11 launch. Michael gleefully climbed into a mock spacesuit, and persuaded the teenager to do the same, before we climbed into a scale replica of the space shuttle, lay on our backs and watched footage of the launch control room while the sound of rockets firing played and ‘flames’ lit up the ‘windows’ and the shuttle rattled and rocked.
    The exhibits on morse code, shuttle handing simulation and space invaders console respectively held the attention of our family for way too long (not to mention Buzz the very contented rescue cat). As a result, our planned quick peek at the museum stretched into a much longer visit than we intended. We hurriedly restocked in Carnarvon town centre before resuming our journey to Exmouth, with Crowded House playing over the roar of the van. Only 300 km or so to go.
    As we travel the landscape becomes more undulating. The soil is vivid red and sandy, and in parts looks like a low heat bushfire has passed through.
    Around 180 km south of Exmouth we speed past a sign announcing the Tropic of Capricorn. Whoops, missed it!
    Around 160 km south of Exmouth we start to see termite mounds, hundreds of them in every direction.
    At 130 km south of Exmouth we pass a guy on a pushbike. He is pulled over in a parking lay by, looking intently at a phone or a map. There is a story there, but we don’t stop. We are pushing ahead, to write our own story!
    A few kilometres further down the road we pass three skip bins. In yet another parking lay by. In the middle of nowhere. There’s another story there!
    The Exmouth isthmus is hillier than much of the coastal plains we have been travelling, and as we top a rise we catch a glimpse of the Indian Ocean and – somewhere out there – Ningaloo Reef.
    Thirty-five km south of Exmouth we pass Learmonth Airport. It has been 17 ½ years since Daniel and Helen touched down here, and took the hilly ride into Exmouth, with the Exmouth Gulf glittering turquoise blue on our right. We are excited to be back, and to share the experience with our children and friends.
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  • Day 11

    Exmouth - Whale Sharks

    April 16, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Seventeen years ago whilst
    on our honeymoon we spent a week diving in Exmouth.
    It was a very isolated part of the world. We were the only ones on the boat for the majority of the time.
    We missed snorkelling with whale sharks then, but vowed to return once we had kids old enough to appreciate the experience - well that was today.
    This morning we arose at 5:30am to prepare to meet the bus to go to the jetty. On the trip out we heard about the history of Exmouth - it was a farm and fishing area until
    the 1960s when the US Navy established a base to communicate with submarines. The area was a little bit of USA, with left hand drive vehicles and the US dollar being the currency. The US left in the ‘90s and Exmouth’s tourist industry grew.
    Anyway, we went snorkelling with Exmouth Dive - the same company we dived with 17 years ago.
    With a spotter plane also looking for whale sharks, it wasn’t long until we saw our first whale shark.
    In total we got to snorkel with 4 whale sharks - the biggest being around 7 metres long.
    It was an amazing experience and well worth the 17 year wait.
    Returning to the inner reef for lunch we came across two tiger sharks that we just cruising the shallows.
    After the dive we returned to the caravan park - disaster struck - Daniel’s MacBook decided to kick it in. If we can’t get it restarted, there will be limited images for the remainder of the trip.
    For dinner we went to the Whalebone Brewing Co. Macca and Daniel walked - they thought it was 800m. Turned out to be about 2km in the dark!
    Pizzas all round, whilst Daniel had a tasting platter of beers which did the trick for an early night before another day on the water for Claire, Helen and Daniel.
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  • Day 12

    Exmouth diving

    April 17, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    We (Claire, Daniel & Helen) got back under the water today with two dives with Exmouth Dive Centre whilst Michael stayed back with the McDermotts and was finally able to get an uninterrupted game of Catan in.
    We boarded Shack and headed out past the Navy Pier to Lighthouse Bay where we dropped in to our first dive - Labyrinth. This is one of the sites we dived twice in 2005. Highlights of this dive was two turtles, mantas shrimp and lots of fish life and corals.
    Our second dive was not far away - Blizzard Ridge, which was our first dive in 2005.
    The highlights of this dive was sea snakes, schooling fish, lion fish and lots of large fish.
    We were back at the van at about 2pm for a quiet afternoon with post-dive lethargy!
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  • Day 13

    Turquoise Bay

    April 18, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    The morning started with a trip to Yardie Creek for a boat tour on the water - about 500 metres long stretch of navigable water surrounded on both sides by a gorge with Rock Wallabies and Osprey. The water is salty and comes from the ocean during large tides, bringing in some fish too. The tour was led by Boxy who told us his and his families life story (his parents coming from post-WW2 Germany and eventually ending up working on building the Naval base). After an hour long tour we were off to the beach.
    Seventeen years ago we spent an entire week scuba diving the reefs of Ningaloo, except for one day. On that day we travelled down to Cape Range National Park and snorkeled at Turquoise Beach - it was amazing. Without doubt, the best snorkeling that we have ever done.
    We had talked about it so much with the kids and the McDermotts that we may have over sold it - but it didn't disappoint. It is a magical stretch of water where the waves from the outer reef crash into a somewhat secluded bay where they flow back out to the ocean, creating a rip that is perfect for a drift snorkel.
    Within the waters are a wide range of corals, only centimeters below the water and the water is teaming with aquatic life.
    There was so much fish life that it is hard to list them all, and if Daniel's Macbook was working there would be a video. But some of the highlights were:
    - a giant Potato Cod (Grouper) that was bigger than Michael (who found it first). It eventually emerged from the rock it was trying to hide under whilst being cleaned and Daniel was able to follow and get some great footage.
    - juvenille white tip reef sharks - three or four were found - again, some great footage.
    - massive Unicorn fish.
    - Trumpeter fish.
    - Six-banded Angelfish.
    We snorkeled for nearly two hours and could have kept going for many more hours. It was great to see Michael taking to it so well (except he got cold, despite the water being 26 degrees!).
    We finished off the day with a trip to Vlamingh Head Lighthouse to watch the sunset from such a great vantage point, complete with a glass of white and a few cheeses and dips. It is a rather unique location, as it is one of the few places that you can watch a sunrise and sunset!
    Once the sun set, Daniel waited for the stars to come out to take advantage of the unique photo opportunity. Unfortunately with the solar eclipse later in the week, there are a lot of people who like to watch the Heavenly bodies and there quiet a few people with the same idea.
    Patience was required, but the reward is a rather unique photograph.
    Tomorrow we dive the Navy Pier!
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  • Day 14

    Navy Pier dive

    April 19, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Today was earmarked as a fantastic dive day - we had a slow start to the day with pancakes with choc-chip before we spent a small fortune in Exmouth. On the way we stopped to check out our old digs - Stalag 20 as we affectionately called it!
    The town is getting busy with the total eclipse happening tomorrow.
    Michael had another day exploring the beaches of the Cape Range NP whilst Claire, Daniel & Helen went for a dive at the Navy Pier - one of the top 10 shore dives in the world.
    We dives here in 2005 and it was magnificent - all the fish we saw diving the reef in one place, much larger and chilled - except for one surgeon fish that went for Daniel.
    The Navy Pier is an active naval base. Formerly a US base it was handed back in 1999 and is used to communicate with submarines and ships in the Indian and Pacific oceans using Very Low Frequency (VLF).
    As an active base everyone diving has to pass a security check. But we hit a snag when security had issue with the Services NSW app driver’s licence, US driver’s licence and someone misspelling their name. After some tense moments and a few phone calls to higher ranked officials, we were given the all clear to enter.
    We had about an hour to dive as it could only be done in the slack tide - the time it takes for water to change direction at the change of tide.
    We chose to guide ourselves as it meant we could take our time and see everything at our own pace.
    To enter the water we do a big safety step of about 5 metres. It is a bit daunting when wearing all your dive gear to just step out!
    We descend down and immediately we see a white tip reef shark and it wasn’t long until we saw the BFG - the Big Friendly Grouper. Definitely big - over 2.5 metres long and estimated to be at least 300kg, the BFG dwarfed Helen and Claire.
    It wasn’t long until we were in the middle of a school of bannerfish, and then another school and another.
    A lot of the larger pelagic fish were being cleaned by the cleaner wrasse. They didn’t care that we were that close.
    We saw a lot of lion fish. They seemed to be everywhere and the moray eels we saw were huge! Fish were everywhere, they were huge and they were chilled.
    We surfaced after 48 minutes and Claire’s first words were “That was amazing”.
    Tonight, across the road from the caravan park was the Dark Sky Festival with food trucks and Boox Kid and The Waifs playing. We went across and nearly stayed the race, but the kids couldn’t keep up and we retired to camp where we could still hear and see The Waifs finish their set.
    Tomorrow is the Eclipse. It will be interesting!
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  • Day 15

    Total Solar Eclipse

    April 20, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Photographing a solar eclipse is a rare opportunity and it needs special equipment so not to burn out the camera - the lens is essentially a big magnifier glass and remember what happens when you focus the sun on a piece a paper. Well the same will happen with the camera sensor if not done right.
    A special lens filter is required that blocks essentially all of the light except for the sun. The glass lenses cost a lot. A simpler solution is special astronomy film and to make your own lens cover.
    With the eclipse fast approaching, Daniel made up a filter for his lens, finishing with just ten minutes to spare before the moon began its journey across the face of the sun at 10:05am.
    We sat adjacent our van in the caravan park - there were other places to go and watch the eclipse, but we had a good view of the path of the sun and the luxury of having our food and wine handy!
    Covered from head to toe (literally), Daniel sat in the sun with his camera on a tripod and manually took photos of the eclipse every 2 minutes, getting some amazing photos - in some you can see the solar flares shooting out from the sun and during totality the corona can be seen.
    At the moment of totality the light dimmed dramatically - like twilight (not complete darkness), a roar of cheers erupted from across the caravan park and the town.
    Special protective glasses and the special filter could be removed for the 50 odd seconds of totality. The birds flew around as if it were dusk.
    And in a very short amount of time the sun’s rays started to come back around the top of the moon as it continued its journey across the sun.
    By 1:05 pm it was all over.
    Heading down to the pool we came across a professional photographer who had even more amazing shots - it was his 15th eclipse and he had a lot more expensive camera gear!
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  • Day 16

    Farewell Exmouth

    April 21, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Today is our last day in Exmouth and sadly represents the turnaround point in our journey.
    It has been great to relive parts of our honeymoon and to be able to share it with our kids and best friends, the McDermotts. It is also a part of the celebration for Daniel and Macca’s 50th year.
    We have seen parts of Exmouth that haven’t changed (VLF towers, red dirt, the dry heat, the Navy Pier, Stalag 20, Turquoise Beach) and some that have (no emus in the Main Street, the “crowds”, no kangaroos and few reptiles, a lot more shops).
    We spent our last day at the beaches - first we tried Oyster Stacks, supposedly one of the better snorkelling spots but we found there to be les diversity in corals and aquatic life. The entry and exit are also terrible with razor sharp rocks that cut up many.
    After an hour we moved onto Turquoise Beach. We were lucky to jag one of the last parking spots with the help of the Parks & Conservation staff.
    Returning to what I think has to be the best beach in Australia, we snorkeled for over an hour, finding all kinds of aquatic life, including white tip reef sharks, turtles, the big grouper of Turquoise Beach, anemone fish and an octopus. Michael found the sharks and turtles and was very pleased with himself.
    We spent around 3 hours At Turquoise Beach. A nice end to our time here in Exmouth.
    Again there was a concert at the oval opposite the caravan park. We headed over that way to get a group photo in our tour t-shirts.
    A very early start tomorrow to drive to Coral Bay to be on a boat for manta rays.
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