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Camino Francés 2022
  • Laura's Adventures

Camino Francés 2022

A 41-day adventure by Laura's Adventures Read more
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  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    New experience

    July 31, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Today I'm trying something new: I'm staying at the St John Baptist parochial albergue, in Grañón. It was highly recommended in the guide I've been following, for an experience in the true spirit of the Camino.
    There's no fee to stay here. People are asked to leave a donation in a box if they can, and are invited to take from the box if they need.
    There is a kitchen stocked with groceries, and guests prepare a communal meal.
    I can report on that later, as I just arrived and still have to have a shower and do my laundry - that in itself is a weird arrangement: we can hand wash on the second floor of the albergue, but we have to go to a bus stop around the corner to put it out to dry.
    They usually have a mass after dinner, but not today because it's Sunday 😅 . They will have a gathering with all the pilgrims instead.    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    The catch(es)

    July 31, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    The communal meal was delayed because, being the last day of the month, there was a change of hospitaleros: 2 volunteers running the albergue were leaving, and 2 new ones had to be inducted.
    Once everything was ready, we (the 25 or so guests) were invited to go to the kitchen and prepare food for 30 people. There was no direction, we could prepare anything we wanted with the ingredients available.
    Since no one was 'in charge' there was a lot of talking before any action started. And I was tired and hungry!
    There was a majority of Italians in the group, so you guessed it: there was going to be pasta. I called for lentils as a complement, for some plant-based protein. So there was that, plus salad.
    I helped chopping veggies, and the Italians did the cooking.
    When everything was ready we took tables and chairs down to the plaza, and ate there. It was nice in the shade with a light breeze, sadly I didn't take photos of the table (all my attention was on the eating!).
    The meal was satisfying, and then I just wanted to go to sleep. But here was catch #1: we all had to help with the dishes 🤦🏻‍♀️
    They brought plastic containers with water to the tables, which were set up as washing and rinsing stations, with a drying station at the end. There were 3 sets: one for dishes, one for glasses and one for cuttlery, etc.
    When all was clean and tidy, all I wanted to do was sleep. But there was one more thing to do: the 'optional' gathering of the pilgrims, to be held at the church choir. The hospitalera mentioned 'prayer' in relation to the gathering and, as I am not religious, I wasn't keen. But then she came to me and the other couple of people who were just hanging around the bedroom and encouraged us to go, saying it's a very special moment, very emotional and moving. So, I made the effort, as it was probably going to be my only chance to experience that special moment in the whole Camino - though it felt a bit like catch #2.
    The sat in a circle, and religious content was kept to a minimum. There was a bit of history about the albergue, then we went around the room to hear from everyone what they were hoping to get out of the Camino. Then we got up and held hands, and went around again, everyone saying a wish for the person on their right. Finally, we released hands, mixed up and gave hugs (I think this made an already existing covid risk even worse, but no one seemed to care).
    Finally, after that I could go to sleep. It was after 10pm and not the most comfortable sleep (there was no pillow). While I wasn't in a rush to get up early in the morning, others had an alarm at 5am and started packing up, meaning I couldn't sleep as much as I needed.    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    Border crossing

    August 1, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Today I crossed another border, leaving La Rioja to enter Castilla y León.
    As happened in the last few days, it was cloudy with a nice temperature in the morning. Then the clouds disappeared and it got hot.
    I didn't have a firm decision on today's destination: it could be Belorado at 16k, or Tosantos at 20k.    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    A little treat

    August 1, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Since I have been progressing well so far and I was still sleepy, I decided to call it a day at Belorado. One advantage was that I didn't have to walk in the sun, as I arrived before it came out with full force. Another advantage and big motivator was that the albergue has a swimming pool.
    My walking buddy today has been Javier, a young Spaniard with a dodgy ankle and several toe blisters, who was walking slow, matching my pace.
    We checked in at the albergue, went out for lunch, then came back for a much needed siesta.
    After some rest, I had a swim and enjoyed a lazy afternoon.
    Lubo and others are also in town, and we plan to catch up for dinner.    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    Another sunrise

    August 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    I was the first one to get up at albergue Cuatro Cantones in Belorado, and I started walking in the dark, at 5am, with 15°C. It felt a bit cool, and great for walking.
    Today I had a route of 27k ahead, the first half being a slightly uphill walk to Villafranca Montes de Oca, and the second half a steep climb (one of the top 10 climbs of the whole Camino, I've been told) over La Pedraja, and finally a descent into San Juan de Ortega.
    I had to start that early, because the forecast for today was 35°C.    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    Damn flies

    August 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    I didn't enjoy the second half of the walk. The scenery was nice, all bush, but there were millions of annoying little flies that kept coming to my face.
    I had a similar experience on the way to Lúquin last week. I didn't mention it because I didn't want to sound negative and didn't want to let that little annoyance ruin my mood.
    But today, despite trying again to keep calm and ignore them, they were so persistent that a couple of times I even swore out loud. The worst was going on the steep uphill, not being able to breathe through my mouth!
    So, I am just acknowledging the reality that the relentless flies did stop me from enjoying what was otherwise a great walk.    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    A good plan

    August 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    The plan worked very well: I arrived at Villafranca by 8am, and stopped for brekky. The temperature was 14°C there and I hadn't realised how cold my hands were. My fingers were stiff and I couldn't undo the clips of my backpack!
    There was only one place to eat there, the restaurant at the hotel/albergue. I had a Colacao (hot chocolate) and a croissant, served by Salam, from Algeria, who was very excited to meet an Argentinian for the first time.
    The trail from there to my destination of the day was nice, with more shade than direct sun, and I made it to San Juan de Ortega before midday, with 26°C.
    I checked in at albergue El Descanso de San Juan, had a light lunch, shower and siesta 👌    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    Manolo

    August 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    I have seen this man a few times in the last 3 days, and last night we were at the same albergue.
    This morning he started after me, and passed me on the way. He arrived at San Juan de Ortega before me.
    We just compared our walk stats, and he walked the same distance in half an hour less. He's turning 71 in September.
    Well done Manolo, you're a legend! 👏👏👏    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    300k

    August 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Today I got to Burgos, and completed the first 300k of the Camino.
    Last night I shared a room with Carol and Nancy. We all wanted to start walking by 5am, so we agreed to get up at 4 and we didn't have to tip-toe around anybody.
    Nancy wanted to wait for her friends in the next room, so Carol and I went on our way when we were ready, at 4.45.
    I had a head torch, so Carol got the benefit of the light and I got all the moths 😂
    We stopped to have our packed breakfasts at Atapuerca, still before sunrise.
    We kept walking, and we eventually got to another village at a time when cafes were open, and we had another break with morning tea and met other pilgrims.
    I moved on when I was ready, she stayed longer.
    The other day, Javier told me about an alternative route to Burgos, going next to a river instead of passing by an industrial area. It was a no brainer. Slightly longer, but more enjoyable. I don't know why this isn't the main route!
    I took the river option, with a few other people I had met before. The beginning of the route was marked, but then we found a 'shortcut' to the river and we were on our own. The scenery was nice, but we got to a dead end! We had to go back 🤷🏻‍♀️
    We wasted a bit of time there, but eventually joined the marked route again and we made it to Burgos.
    I was very tired, a bit sleepy, and with sore feet. Couldn't wait to check into the albergue.    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    Burgos city

    August 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    This is a big city and I have only seen a very small part of it. It has large parks, plazas and lots of places for al fresco dining. Also a lot of art, and high end shops of all kinds, as well as very traditional stores - for example, a book store that claims to be the oldest in Spain.
    Food is also a step above everything I've seen in Spain so far. Separate footprint on that!    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    Burgos food

    August 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    It took me years to get used to Australia's early dinner time, and now I really need that, as the early starts need an early bedtime.
    Here, however, an early dinner is 8pm. I did my city walk at about 5pm, to get an impression of the city centre and, at the same time, take note of good places to eat later. By later I meant 6pm or so.
    There are many restaurants serving the specialties of the region, many icecream and smoothie shops, amazing patisseries and bakeries, and a chocolate cafe. My dessert was sorted. But first I needed to find food.
    I could have been satisfied with tapas or pinchos (something small), but as of 6pm the kitchens were all closed. This is the time when people go for drinks, not food.
    Luckily, as I kept walking I came across a Mexican fast food shop that had the kitchen open all day. Not my ideal kind of food to have in Spain, but the vegetarian burrito was a good option for an early meal, and it was quite good.
    For dessert, I went to Cafe Ibañez for chocolate con churros. WOW! It was amazing!    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    Burgos Municipal Albergue

    August 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    It's my first time at a municipal albergue, and I am very impressed. This place looks new, is very well organised and very clean. Other pilgrims tell me that not many municipals are of this standard.
    It's known as the house of cubes, because of the configuration of the sleeping spaces. I like it!    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    Sore feet

    August 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    My feet were very sore as I was approaching Burgos yesterday. It's internal, either muscles, tendons or ligaments, as I still don't have any blisters.
    Last night I was contemplating spending a whole extra day in Burgos, to give the feet a break. But they felt much better in the morning. Still some pain with certain movements, but I could walk, and I was only going to do a relatively short day of 20k.
    I taped the right foot, and it made me feel better, even if just a placebo effect.
    The terrain today would be mostly flat, and I knew I could make it if I went slow, being careful how I placed my feet on the ground.
    Yesterday was also fairly flat, and I sped up a bit (I beat Manolo 😂). No speeding today.    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    Hiking trolley

    August 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    This morning I saw Fréderique, whom I had met a couple of times before. She's walking from Le Puy (doing more than double my total distance) and recently dropped the backpack for this trolley. She's raving about it, but I haven't seen anyone else using something like that.Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler
    2

    The meseta

    August 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Today is the start of a long section of cereal fields, mostly flat, dry, monotonous and devoid of any shade.
    I started walking with Lucía and Nico, a young American couple of Argentinian descent. They both left their jobs in Philadelphia and took time out to do the Camino from Le Puy (coincidentally, same as Fréderique) before they start a new life as members of a communal living cooperative in Rhode Island.
    Later, I walked part of the way with Fréderique. She's doing the walk to give thanks to God for curing her cancer. She told me the full story, and how puzzled the doctors were, as they couldn't explain her full recovery. We had a good chat about her reasons for believing, and mine for not believing, both respectful of the other and all in French.
    The chats make time go faster, 5 or 6k go by without noticing. I also enjoyed the parts I walked alone, I like my own time in silence 🙂    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler
    2

    Hornillos del Camino

    August 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    This is my destination today. A very small village, I have a feeling that this is one of those places that pilgrims keep alive. The only visible commercial activities are a few albergues and basic food supplies.
    I am staying at El Alfar de Hornillos, a small private albergue, nice and quiet with very helpful hosts. Not quite the level of Belorado, but also has a swimming pool 😂    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    Towards Castrojeriz

    August 5, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Last night I gave my feet a good massage and today they felt better than yesterday. For the meseta section I am following the standard stages suggested in most guides, because they make sense: sometimes there are longer distances between villages, and the stages are between 18 and 25k, which is good while my feet are still not 100%.
    Today's route was 20k and there was no need to start too early. I started around 6.15 (I can't believe I'm saying this isn't too early 🤣), walking alone.
    Within the first hour, Jan caught up with me and we kept walking together all the way. He's a German guy whom I have seen but never spoken with before. He reminds me of Joachim (some people at work will know who that is).
    The landscape was as expected, cereal fields as far as the eye can see. The track, like yesterday, was a little sandy, with small rocks, and fairly flat.    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    14th Century ruins

    August 5, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We paused to look at the ruins of St Anton's Convent. .
    I was impressed by the grandeur of the arches, and wondered how they were built so long ago, without CAD drawings or any machinery.
    Jan is a civil engineer, interested in old buildings, and told me as much as his English permitted.Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    Castrojeriz

    August 5, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    I arrived around midday, checked into albergue Rosalía shortly after, and I was hungry. I went out looking for food before having a shower, but all I could get was snacks. Real food was not available until 1.30. I wasn't very happy about that, but I did want some real food, so selected the restaurant I was going to go to, went back to the albergue to have the shower, and then had my meal in a nice terrace under the shade of a tree.
    Then, back to the albergue for laundry and siesta.
    Later, I went for a walk. I bought anti-inflam cream for my feet and some snacks to carry on the walk tomorrow.
    I had dinner at the albergue with other guests (majority of Germans today), then went out for another walk with Fréderique and Lisa, a mother and daughter from Belgium.
    Very bizarre, meeting 2 Fréderiques, it's not a common name!    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    2 weeks in

    August 6, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    I think today is the first time that I walked alone all the way, apart from the first day which was very short.
    It was a peaceful walk, with few others around. I kept myself entertained for a good while trying to remember where I stayed each night so far. It was really hard to remember them all, but I'm sure I got it in the end - and in the right order.
    At times, a Green Day song was coming to my head: Boulevard of Broken Dreams ("I walk alone, I walk alone..."). I like the song a lot, although it doesn't represent my mood at all. I am enjoying the quiet walks and am very happy doing this Camino.
    My feet were ok in the beginning. Last night I removed the tape and put on the cream.The walk was still mostly flat, except for a substantial hill leaving Castrojeriz, and a smaller one later on. I actually liked them, for the variety. It was a 25k walk and towards the end my right foot was sore again, and still is 😖
    I will insist with the cream and massage, and will stick with the shorter stages for the next few days.    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    Surprise!

    August 6, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    The last part of the walk was along a nice tree-lined track next to the Canal de Castilla. Very refreshing!
    I reached Frómista around 12.30 and had a sandwich for lunch, making time until the albergue Luz de Frómista opened.
    At check-in I found 2 familiar faces: Milka and Svenia, from Germany, who tonight will have shared a room with me for the 3rd night in a row! They met on the Camino and are together all the time. Milka is old enough to be Svenia's mother or grandmother, but they are best buddies. Later Jan turned up at the same albergue. The Germans are head to head with the Italians tonight, I think 😂    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    I was so wrong! 🤦🏻‍♀️

    August 6, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    I was writing my updates as I was finishing my 'dinner' consisting of cucumber sticks and hummus.
    I went to the kitchen to clean up and I can confirm that the Italians not only outnumber the Germans, by at least double... they also know how to cook!
    I made friends with the wrong side 🤣    Read more

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