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Camino de Santiago

September - November 2022
  • Levana Fletcher
A 54-day adventure by Levana Read more
  • Levana Fletcher

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  • Portugal Portugal
  • Spain Spain
  • France France
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  • 28.8kkilometers traveled
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  • 62footprints
  • 54days
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  • Levana FletcherTravelerCamino de Santiago

    Pre-launch jitters

    September 9, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    As this app is fond of telling me, my next trip starts in 4 days! Referring to my anticipated date of actually setting foot on the Camino, Tuesday September 13. This cozy interlude in the darling apartment on the square in Sarlat, which has come to feel like home, will end tomorrow. Saturday is the big market day so I'm going to try to get out of town early to beat the traffic congestion, then will take the faster toll roads back to Bordeaux, return the rental car and stay one night in a hotel near the train station. Then Sunday, an early train to St Jean Pied de Port, the portal for the Camino Francés. There I will get my pilgrim credenciel, which I will get stamped all along the Way, and I will ship the suitcase ahead to Santiago. Thereafter, I will be living solely out of the backpack for 35+ days, however long it takes me to reach Santiago. No pictures today unless of the contents of the backpack strewn on the bed while I determine if there's anything I can eliminate, every ounce counts! Laundry, post office, visit to the cathedral and an early night. Bon courage!
    Oh and long live the King!    Read more

  • Levana FletcherTravelerCamino de Santiago

    Addendum

    September 9, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Completion successful at la Poste, that's always an adventure- sending stuff home and doing the customs declaration, have to get everything signed, sealed and delivered in quadruplicate. Laundry is drying, the sun is coming out, time to just enjoy my last afternoon in Sarlat.Read more

  • Levana FletcherTravelerCamino de Santiago
    One more candle for the road- Sacred Heart of Jesus, I put my faith in you
    Good bye to la petite voitureBordeaux train station1Lemon ice, in a lemon shellVertigo1Boil your own egg for breakfastBayonne train stationSmall 2 car train to St JeanWhew, I'm on the right trainSigns are in French and BasqueThey always seem to do it...way up on a hill...1Ooh what's in here...1So much coolerThe moat?They built a wallThe King's Gate🥳View of St Jean

    Bordeaux to St Jean Pied de Porte

    September 11, 2022 in France ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Left Sarlat yesterday (only yesterday??) in the early morning as the market was starting...made it to Bordeaux and returned the rental car a little late after finding a gas station and the figuring out how to refuel shenanigans. Stayed in a basic hotel right across the road from the train station, had a lovely late lunch in the restaurant downstairs (really good roast chicken with gravy 😋, salad and potatoes, lemon ice for dessert). After a quick early breakfast, popped across the road and found my train (always somewhat harrowing as the destination listed is not always where you're going and they don't announce the track till 20 minutes before departure). Arrived in St Jean after a change in Bayonne, too early to check in so hiked up to the Citadelle and looked around town, found the Pilgrim office where I'll register Tuesday morning, had ice cream. It's 94°. Now ensconced in beautiful Maison E. Bernat, with AC and wifi! ♥️Read more

  • Levana FletcherTravelerCamino de Santiago
    Looking up Rue de la Citadelle toward pilgrim office
    1Looking down rue de la Citadelle, the route out of town to begin the CaminoQueue at the pilgrim officeWe're in the territory of Navarre, Basque country

    Pilgrim prep

    September 11, 2022 in France ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    Visited the Pilgrim office today after all, spoke to a very kind volunteer named Florence who is doing a one week stint, processing 300-400 pilgrims a day, wait she might have said thousand, not sure, her first language is French. Got my credential stamped (got a little emotional) and some info on stages- elevation and distance, and refuges and albergues along the way. Also the requisite pilgrim identifier which I will have to figure out how to attach to the backpack. I'm shipping the suitcase I've been using up to now, and will use for the 2 weeks in Portugal after the Camino, ahead to Santiago tomorrow morning, then commences living solely out of the backpack for several weeks. Brings to mind George Carlin's routine about our "Stuff"....Google itRead more

  • Levana FletcherTravelerCamino de Santiago
    1Oh sure, I'm game, it's only 80° at the moment
    All along the watchtower...Church of Our Lady of the End of the Bridge1Alfresco lunch in hotel backyardPilgrims follow waymarkers like this all along the WayGo thatawayI'll get to Roncesvalles (Spanish) Monastery the second day2La Porte d'Espagne, pointed toward SpainLooking back down toward the church

    Last day in St Jean

    September 12, 2022 in France ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    I'm about as ready as I'll ever be...putzed around in the morning to beat the heat- snacks✔️ postcards mailed✔️ water system set up✔️. Wandered around the town and scouted out the route for tomorrow morning, visited the church. Plan to hit the trail by 0800, only going to Refuge Orisson tomorrow, about 8 km with 800 m elevation gain, trying to ease into this. I know the first week or two will be the break in period while my body gets used to carrying the pack every day.Read more

  • Levana FletcherTravelerCamino de Santiago
    Bless these feet (and weird but wonderful toe socks) and all their goings out and comings in.
    And it begins, Pilgrim from SF going about my speed...slowThe pass is open, good signThey lied, it was WAY farther than 2 kmThe oasis1View from bunk room

    First stage complete

    September 13, 2022 in France ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Made it to Refuge Orisson, which feels like a minor miracle. OK I trained some for this before I left but evidently not enough for 8 km straight up with a 15 lb pack (most be more with water). So glad I made this reservation back in March, don't think I could have made the whole 25 km to Roncesvalles on the first day. So thankful it is cooler! Only 75° with intermittent refreshing sprinkles. Settled into the bunk room with 8 other people (silently betting on who the snorers are going to be, I have ear plugs!) Looking forward to the communal pilgrim dinner tonight. The idea of having my bag transported ahead has an appeal but I'm going to try to stick it out to Pamplona and hope I toughen up!Read more

  • Levana FletcherTravelerCamino de Santiago
    Early morning, pilgrims abustle
    0730, ready to go?1Pre-sunriseAnd we're offSay what??I'm ready for my close-up2GodsendProof of progressWoodsy respiteEmergency shelterTop of the pass, what goes up must come down, beginning of descentRoncesvalles way down in the valleyRoncesvalles

    Stage 2: Orisson to Roncesvalles

    September 14, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Yesterday kicked my butt. So did today for different reasons but we'll get to that later. Eleven miles and I don't even want to know the elevation gain, up and over Col Lepoeder pass 1432 m, the Napoleon route over the Pyrenees into Spain. Hardest part was standing in line for an hour to check in when I got there, was about to keel over. But after getting out of the boots, showering and handing my reeking sweat drenched clothing over to volunteers who washed and dried it (tears of joy!) I revived enough to enjoy the communal pilgrim dinner. Everything ached though, had to take naproxen so I could fall asleep. Had 3 German bunkmates in my cubicle who were so chill and packed so minimally I was in awe. After the amazing restorative power of sleep, was actually able to get up, put the boots back on, shoulder the pack and head out again by 0800 after breakfast. Onward to Zubiri.Read more

  • Levana FletcherTravelerCamino de Santiago
    Church at Roncesvalles
    13Optimistic much?1Burguete in the early morningAnother roadside attractionRocky descent to Zubiri3Most lovely salad I've ever seen or eaten

    Stage 3: Roncesvalles to Zubiri

    September 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Before I pass out from exhaustion and have good wifi will post briefly about today. Just under fourteen miles, which I think is the longest I have ever walked with a pack, mostly downhill which is hard in its own right. Stopped 3 times, once to take off socks and boots and let them air out and dry in the sun. First official cafe con leche, having to switch my brain from French to Spanish. Many meditations on the nature of suffering. Arrived at the beautiful Albergue Suseia after 8 hours, too tired to move but not as beat up feeling as yesterday, could this be progress??Read more

  • Levana FletcherTravelerCamino de Santiago
    Leaving the wonderful Albergue Suseia at 0730
    Really?? There was a lot of this today, going up and down1Beautiful riverside stop for elevenses1Fresh squoze OJ and spinach "tortilla" like a cheesy pie with potatoes and veggiesFeets don't fail me nowI sure hope that's Pamplona (it's a suburb)I don't believe in kilometers, kilometers are imaginaryWhat a concept

    Stage 4: Zubiri to Pamplona

    September 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Just when I thought I was getting the hang of this, when I could feel my body transitioning from "what are you, nuts?? didn't we just do this yesterday??" to "oh, so this is what we're doing every day now? hmm...well ok...but on these terms: keep me hydrated, give me fuel and rest every couple hours". I thought we had a deal. And the pack was beginning to become background sometimes instead of always being foreground. Got to Pamplona today after 13 miles and 8 hours and my whole body hurts. The last I don't know how many miles or kilometers was on pavement so that probably had a lot to do with it. I had worked out a whole philosophical approach to dealing with the physical challenge and discomfort but.... I'm done. With carrying the fully loaded pack every day. Hobbled to a Decathalon sporting goods store a few blocks from my hotel and got a perfectly serviceable daypack for 19€. I have a rest day here tomorrow and one more night, then Sunday will walk to Obanos, a mere 21.5 kilometers, with only the basics in the daypack and have the backpack transported ahead. I am at peace with this decision.Read more

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