Camino de Santiago

Levanaによる54日間のアドベンチャーもっと詳しく

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日8
2022年9月20日火曜日 9:00
☀️ 24 °C
海抜: 561 m
スペイン Urbiola 42.615, -2.11333342°36’54” N 2°6’48” W
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Stage 7: Estella to Los Arcos
2022年9月20日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
13.4 miles, 7 hours, 50°-84°. Before this all turns into a blur of exhaustion I've got to record some of it. Every day seems like a year. I left Estella later than usual because I waited for the post office to open to get some postcard stamps and to mail a box of stuff from my pack ahead to Santiago. I've pared it down even more but am still sending the big backpack ahead for a couple more days and walking with a daypack because now the mid-back has gone on strike. Just when hips and knees had fully signed on. I think it's the daypack I've been using. So today (I'm writing this Wednesday) I went to a sporting goods store dedicated to the needs of those walking the Camino and got a Deuter German made daypack designed for women that seems to fit my body better. Here's hoping. I want to get to the point where I can just enjoy the walk without some screaming distraction of bodily discomfort.
Hopefully I'll remember the walk to Los Arcos when I look at the pictures...all I remember now are the hallucinatory last few miles on gravel through open wheat fields in 84° with no shade. When I got into town I called a taxi to the truck stop hotel I had a reservation at a mile and a half out of town off the freeway. Met some lovely Norwegian folks in the dining room. Slept like a log.もっと詳しく
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旅行者 Wheat fields are a surprise, I expected all vineyards
2022/09/24返信する
旅行者I am amazed that you are able to reflect, write and assemble photos after the exhaustion of the journey.
2022/09/27返信する
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日9
2022年9月21日水曜日 22:24
🌙 14 °C
海抜: 461 m
スペイン Viana 42.521479, -2.3611242°31’17” N 2°21’40” W
Stage 8: Los Arcos to Viana
2022年9月21日, スペイン ⋅ 🌙 14 °C
18.4 kms/11.4 miles, 6.5 hrs, 49°-75°. Somehow my pace has picked up a bit, even though my mid-back below the shoulder blades is so sore. Pleasant temperatures today with a nice breeze. Played tag team with a delightful Irish couple all day. They've been walking the Camino in segments for several years, starting from Pamplona this time and ending in Logrono tomorrow. Didn't take many pictures today, was kind of in a zone. Arrived about 2:30 to a private hostal, the host was away but had left me a lovely salad, bread and cold drinks. I have my own room and bathroom and use of the washing machine and dryer! Walked back into town and found the Irish couple again, had the pilgrim special menu at a restaurant bar, which they serve "early" for pilgrims, rather than having to wait until 8:00 when dinner usually starts. Also ran into a bunk mate from Orisson, Yuko from San Francisco, so good to see her.
More ponderings today about the nature of suffering, the meaning of pilgrimage, the limitations of the human body, etc. Might make sense out of some of it after some sleep 😴もっと詳しく
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旅行者it continues to sound wonderful. I'm pondering some of those same things daily from here in the Okanogan but without as much walking. sending love...
2022/09/21返信する
旅行者Nice to make friends , happy gat should help
2022/09/22返信する
旅行者Oops I mean that should help
2022/09/22返信する
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日10
2022年9月22日木曜日 7:49
🌙 6 °C
海抜: 457 m
スペイン Viana 42.521667, -2.36166742°31’18” N 2°21’42” W
2 1 1
Stage 9: Viana to Navarrete
2022年9月22日, スペイン ⋅ 🌙 6 °C
21.8 kms/13.5 miles, 49°-78°, 8 hours. Was a day of contrasts- started off from Viana chipper and optimistic, hit a wall after Logrono and went through the "dim and grismals" for quite a while. Arrived in Navarrete in the heat of the day when everything still closed for siesta. After a shower and rest I reemerged and wandered around the charming little town (love the tiny pocket parks, benches and planters everywhere) and visited the amazing church. I will have to read up on the history of why such a small town has such a sumptuous church. I've never seen so much gold in one place. I saw a few familiar faces. I seem to have fallen into a loose cohort of other slow walkers, we pass each other, nod smile offer an encouraging word or bit of humor. It's a nice mix of familiarity and independence, everyone going at their own pace and doing their own thing. I overcame my usual reserve and invited some folks to join me for dinner- a couple from Longview Washington and a young man from Wales. Had a wonderful meal of Pintxos or tapas, with chocolate mousse and hot tea for dessert. A reward for the difficulties of the day. A relatively easy day tomorrow I hope, "only" 17 kms/10 miles to Najera.もっと詳しく
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旅行者 Great photo
2022/09/22返信する
旅行者getting a little sunburned!
2022/09/23返信する
旅行者Live the photos but the town looks deserted , siesta time?
2022/09/22返信する
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日10
2022年9月22日木曜日 18:27
☀️ 26 °C
海抜: 529 m
スペイン Iglesia Parroquial de la Asuncion de Maria 42.43, -2.56166742°25’48” N 2°33’42” W
1 1 2 2
Few extra photos
2022年9月22日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
Yesterday was a scenic day, had to add a few more pics
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Your journey is incredible. The photos are lovely too. What kind of camera or phone are you using? [Syna]
2022/09/23返信する
旅行者The camera on my Pixel 6 phone!
2022/09/23返信する
旅行者 Love the colors of building in backround , sort of Provence colors
2022/09/23返信する
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日11
2022年9月23日金曜日 8:14
⛅ 10 °C
海抜: 529 m
スペイン Iglesia Parroquial de la Asuncion de Maria 42.43, -2.56166742°25’48” N 2°33’42” W
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Stage 10: Naverrete to Nájera
2022年9月23日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C
17 km/10 miles, 52°-71°, 5 hours! Arrived in Nájera at 1:00, that's the earliest I've arrived anywhere so far, and the most amazing part is that my back was not screaming at me the whole way! We may have a winner in this new daypack, my body may be getting used to this finally, or it may have been that I walked most of the way with a couple other folks going my speed, talking laughing and singing the whole way. The miles flew by and I wasn't hyper focused on my own sensations. Whatever it was, it was a gift and I am so grateful. I'm tired but not dead tired, and everything does not hurt, hallelujah!
I found a restaurant serving food early, hit a grocery store when it reopened at 5:00 and scored supplies for tomorrow: 13 miles to Santo Domingo without many services enroute. I have a reservation to stay with Cistercian nuns, should be interesting. What I wouldn't give for a nice hot cup of tea right now. Buenos nochesもっと詳しく
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旅行者 Great statue
2022/09/23返信する
旅行者 Adorable and quaint
2022/09/23返信する
旅行者So very glad you are in less pain you may have hit your stride
2022/09/23返信する
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日12
2022年9月24日土曜日 8:19
☁️ 12 °C
海抜: 492 m
スペイン Arroyo de Pozuelo 42.418333, -2.73542°25’6” N 2°44’6” W
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Stage 11: Nájera to Santo Domingo
2022年9月24日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C
20.9 km/13 miles, about 7 hours, 52°-59°, cool cloudy with intermittent rain showers, got to try the poncho - it works great! 🌧️ Bit of a slog after last good rest stop for elevenses (at 10:00) in Azofra 5.8 km in. Got into an interesting conversation about religion/ spirituality during which a woman from the Netherlands shared that she just found out she has bladder cancer. We all prayed with her before heading back out. You just never know...each day is a gift.
Mid- back lodged intermittent complaints today- its main demand seems to be "you must stop, sit down and take off the d*** pack at least every two hours!!" Seems reasonable.

I have thoughts, I am not my thoughts.
I have sensations, I am not my sensations.
I have emotions, I am not my emotions.

I'm experimenting with walking with the Minimal Required Effort (MRE- and/or meals ready to eat). How do I walk in as relaxed and graceful a manner as possible? without extra effort? Resisting or having an emotional reaction to my sensations/experience is extra and adds stress. Where am I clenching? (even my jaw! when I get into grim determination mode). Surrender into the experience, breathe.... experience is experience, suffering is optional. (Hah, great in theory 😂)

I've decided the poles slow me down sometimes, the effort of swinging them with every stride, so I'm playing around with them. Sometimes I hold them horizontally, or swing them ahead together every few steps (pretty soon I'll be twirling them like batons).

Got checked into the Cistercian monastery, into my spare but comfortable room, have showered and done laundry and it's 6:00 pm, dinner isn't till 9:00! I'm so hungry I don't know what I'm going to do till then!もっと詳しく
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旅行者 Windshield wipers for your glasses?
2022/09/24返信する
旅行者 Congrats
2022/09/24返信する
旅行者 Beautiful red clay hill
2022/09/24返信する
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日13
2022年9月25日日曜日
⛅ 15 °C
海抜: 785 m
スペイン Belorado 42.421667, -3.1942°25’18” N 3°11’24” W
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Stage 12: Santo Domingo to Belorado
2022年9月25日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
I'm not sure I can write about yesterday until I recover from today but don't want to get behind so here goes.
Sunday (yesterday) was a long day- 22.9 km/14.2 miles, 43°-59°, took me about 8 hours because I stopped every chance I got for food, coffee, water or just to sit down and rest for a few minutes, to appease the grumbling ranks. Feet were expressing doubts about the current regimen but were somewhat reassured by the frequent breaks and a massage with a sample Lush cream bar that has survived in the toiletry kit. Arrived about 5:00 pm to the only place I could find a reservation in Belarado, the Albergue Cuatro Cantones, 4 floors of dorm rooms, a restaurant and a hang out lounge. Was in a bunk room with 5 other people, thankfully in a bottom bunk. Shower room was decent and they washed and dried my clothes for some extra euros. Dinner was great, the kitchen was a well oiled machine cranking out starters, main course and dessert for maybe 80 people? Rioja wine flowed freely. Then the futile attempt to get any sleep ensued, even with ear plugs. I am now convinced I need private accommodations the rest of the way, because without the restorative power of sleep, I won't be able to complete this pilgrimage. Decided on an easy day to Villafranca de Montes de Oca tomorrow, only 11.9 km/7.5 miles.もっと詳しく
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旅行者 Long lonesome road
2022/09/26返信する
旅行者 He is adorable
2022/09/26返信する
旅行者 Nice wall murals
2022/09/26返信する
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日14
2022年9月26日月曜日 8:26
⛅ 6 °C
海抜: 794 m
スペイン Belorado 42.418333, -3.20666742°25’6” N 3°12’24” W
Stage 13: Belorado to Villafranca
2022年9月26日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C
So I made it the 11.9 km/7.5 miles to Villafranca de Montes de Oca today, just barely- left hip has resigned, mid back is sulking and feet aren't talking to me. It took me about 4 hours in 44°-56°, shuffling and lurching like the walking dead. I need another layer for these cool mornings, a thin fleece or windbreaker. We are staying in bed this afternoon in my cute little studio apartment (maid service is lacking, had to make my own cup of tea.) Will venture out after siesta in search of dinner. Self administered Reiki for half an hour got left hip to calm down, mid back and feet have agreed to only minimally required effort the rest of the day. Another relatively easy day planned for tomorrow, 18.3km/11.4 miles to Atapuerca.

P.S. Beyond the whinging, I keep coming back to the central reason for this trek- spiritual pilgrimage. I've wondered if I'm going to be like Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz and find that I've had what I've been searching for within me all along. Even so, there is value in making the journey, in what I discover about myself, other people, the world, God. Most days I remember to touch base with Hour by Hour and The Pilgrim's Devotional, conveniently loaded in the Kindle app on my phone. And I like to think the handmade (by Susan Chloupek) Anglican rosary I'm carrying in a pouch near my heart is praying itself, like a Tibetan prayer flag in the wind, with every step. 🙏♥️もっと詳しく
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旅行者Who would have thought that 11 or so miles is an “easy” day? You are strong: body, mind, spirit.
2022/09/26返信する
旅行者Don’t you need a full day off? You are one strong gal
2022/09/26返信する
旅行者You are amazing Levana!❤️
2022/09/26返信する
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日15
2022年9月27日火曜日 8:06
⛅ 6 °C
海抜: 959 m
スペイン Villafranca-Montes de Oca 42.388333, -3.3142°23’18” N 3°18’36” W
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Stage 14: Villafranca to Atapuerca
2022年9月27日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C
18.3 km/11.4 miles, 46°-60°, about 6 hours
After 10 hours of sleep, a good dinner and breakfast at the big albergue/hotel up the hill, with the only restaurant in town, all players on Team Levana's Physical Being were back on board today. "All we ask for is deep, restoratative rest every night, adequate fuel and hydration and we will do this thing you seem to really want to do." OK, thanks team, message received, I promise to be a better team leader.

A couple days ago, at the last 5 km into Belorado I think, I stopped at a mini-mart on the side of the road because it had a large WC Publico sign, which you never see (it was clean and had toilet paper! a gift from God). There was a young woman about my daughter's age with her feet up airing, who looked to be in some discomfort. Turns out, she was from Seattle and considering nursing as a career! And she had developed blisters. That's why I've been carrying that blister kit! We shared some potato chips (salt) and an Orange Kas (sugar) an orange soda made with real OJ that's not too sweet, and I was able to fix her up with moleskin. She took off again at a blistering (literally!) pace with a gargantuan pack. I haven't seen her since. God bless and keep her.

When younger folks go blasting past me, I mentally pat them and think "that's nice dear, good luck with that" in a kind, not snarky way, really! I give them a smile and a "buen Camino!" then resume my slow and steady pace after getting ruffled by their wake. I dimly remember always being in a rush in my younger years, always hurrying to get somewhere or worrying about being late for something. What was I hurrying toward? Success? Happiness? Just trying to get it right- the project of adulting in this modern world. I remember in my 40s having the sensation of having reached the top of the rollercoaster ride, that I was looking toward the end rather than the middle, and thinking "I must have arrived at whatever I thought I was striving for when I was younger without noticing!" I wonder if our bodies slow down naturally as we age to ease us into eldering. As my time in this earthly life shortens I feel the desire to slow down and savor the time I have left. I'm grateful for this opportunity to slow down even more and appreciate this precious NOW. 🐢もっと詳しく
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旅行者 Lions and tigers and bears, oh my!
2022/09/30返信する
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日16
2022年9月28日水曜日 9:09
⛅ 7 °C
海抜: 882 m
スペイン Plaza Mayor 42.341667, -3.70333342°20’30” N 3°42’12” W
Stage 15: Atapuerco to Burgos
2022年9月28日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C
About 20 km/12.4 miles, 40°-62°, about 6 hours
Left Atapuerca 0800 in 40° with a brisk headwind, all layers on, wearing my puffy jacket tied around my neck/shoulders like a muffler/cape. Time to dig out the gloves and wool buff from the depths of the big pack. There are shopping opportunities in Burgos! city of about 200,000 with a big Decathalon store. I took the alternative path (probably longer) into the city that bypasses the main industrial areas and comes in along the river and a many miles long beautiful park with nary a restroom in sight! The last 3 miles I was walking double time, made it to the hotel Rimbombin in the center of the old town, not far from the cathedral, without an accident. Next- shower, laundry and food, in that order. I'll be here 2 nights- luuuxery!
Folks who use tracking apps say the guidebook distances are usually short by at least 10% but I haven't found one that doesn't use up phone battery, any suggestions?もっと詳しく
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旅行者Re: tracking apps, I use GAIA GPS; While connected to power and internet connection I download the map for the next hike or climb. Once it is in the phone memory cell connections are not required. Putting the cell phone in "airplane mode" during the hike saves the battery. With "location" left turned on the map can be accessed any time and the arrow marker (like the blue dot in Google maps) shows up on the map at your current location. If you remember to "start" at the beginning and "finish" at the end it will accurately log your time, distance, speed, elevation gain and loss for that segment.
2022/09/29返信する
旅行者I just logged on and confirmed that Camino De Santiago is fully mapped in GAIA.
2022/09/29返信する
旅行者Thanks, I will check it out while I've got WiFi at the hotel
2022/09/29返信する
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日17
2022年9月29日木曜日 13:44
⛅ 14 °C
海抜: 855 m
スペイン Río Vena 42.34, -3.69833342°20’24” N 3°41’54” W
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Rest day in Burgos
2022年9月29日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
Having fun on my rest day, it's rainy and cool, good day to be taking it easy. I went to the cathedral yesterday afternoon but it was so huge and elaborate I could hardly take it in, more like visiting a museum than a working church. Took a taxi the 1.8 miles to the Decathalon store this morning as my legs were still feeling a little stumpy, got a windbreaker, some heavier pants (have been wearing a super lightweight, quick drying pair) and some thin socks to wear with my sandals in the evening- pilgrim chic!
Walked back to town to remind the team we'll be doing this again tomorrow and not to get complacent. This afternoon I plan to go to the Human Evolution Museum, then wander around some more and window shop.もっと詳しく
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旅行者Gorgeous glad u r resting
2022/09/30返信する
旅行者 Your private museum experience?
2022/10/02返信する
旅行者The main exhibits were to the left out of the frame, full of noisy school groups
2022/10/02返信する
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日18
2022年9月30日金曜日 12:05
⛅ 10 °C
海抜: 830 m
スペイン Arroyo de Páramo 42.34, -3.83666742°20’24” N 3°50’12” W
Stage 16: Burgos to Hornillos
2022年9月30日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C
20.9 km/13 mi, 45°-60°, about 6 hours? wait how is that possible? I was so slow today, Tortuga was in -1 gear, old people with full packs were chugging past me. It was a long, slow, cold, grumpy slog out of Burgos, nothing was open as I was leaving. Who knew I could walk seven miles before coffee?? Luckily no one tried to talk to me. I'm beginning to think it's harder to come back after a rest day. I made it to Hornillos del Camino, where I had not been able to find lodging, and someone from the hotel I did book a room in 3 miles away came to pick me up, they will deposit me back on the trail in the morning. So it was a lot of praying, breathing and putting one foot in front of the other today. What else are ya gonna do?もっと詳しく
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旅行者Sorry to be slower to respond , I am in Michigan visiting my cousin, perfect weather , enjoying seeing art studios , miss my little Lilly , of course .Getting out of subway in downtown Chicago , got so list even with Google maps , finding our meeting point , I must have walked in circles for more than 40 min. My cousin ( aged 81) wasn’t pleased cause that
2022/10/03返信する
旅行者So glad you're on an adventure, enjoy!
2022/10/03返信する
旅行者Oops not done yet, meant we drove 2 hours in the dark to Michigan, oh well I am not perfect. I thought of you as I kept walking. I guess Stephen is ok, have exchanged a few short texts. I will have him over for dinner when I get back ( this Thursday) . Keep the Spirit w/ you.
2022/10/03返信する
旅行者You too!
2022/10/03返信する
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日19
2022年10月1日土曜日 13:46
☀️ 18 °C
海抜: 793 m
スペイン Castrogeriz 42.291667, -4.12542°17’30” N 4°7’30” W
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Stage 17: Hornillos to Castrojeriz
2022年10月1日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
20 km/ 12.4 mi, 39°-69°, about 5.5 hours. My slow must be getting faster. Beautiful fall day entering the meseta- the high central plain. All systems go, chugging along, only minor random complaints from the team.
Gotta get this breakfast and dinner thing worked out. When breakfast is offered it's usually just coffee and bread, which doesn't get me far. Sometimes the first town with food options isn't for several miles and I'm crashing and burning by then. Dinner, when served early for pilgrims, is at 7:30, otherwise not till 8:30-9:00. Have to watch for grocery stores to stock up on sustaining snacks.
Tonight I'm staying in a beautiful hotel built on the site of a Franciscan monastery. It's so lovely I may not want to leave, the gardens are gorgeous and full of scented herbs like rosemary, lavender and mint. Heavenly!もっと詳しく
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旅行者 way up on a hill
2022/10/01返信する
旅行者 Now that's a reward for a long walk
2022/10/02返信する
旅行者 Bishop Curry’s photo is there , I am reading his book ,”Love is the Way” , I wonder if he knows that his photo is here
2022/10/03返信する
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日19
2022年10月1日土曜日 18:11
☀️ 21 °C
海抜: 782 m
スペイン Convento de San Francisco 42.286901, -4.13519542°17’13” N 4°8’7” W
Random insights
2022年10月1日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
When you're walking for 6-8 hours a day, you have a lot of time to think...

One of the main things I've gotten from walking the Camino so far is being happy with going at my own pace. Ta-dah! Isn't that a great metaphor for life?? I could elaborate on that but it's siesta time....

We're all walking the Way. I feel kinship with all who have walked, are walking now and will walk, we're all walking together on this journey of earthly life, learning how to love. We feel ripples from the past and are sending ripples into the future. Buen Camino! OK, like that Edie Brickell song "shove me into shallow water, before I get too deep" and Paul Simon (who she happens to be married to btw) " I know what I know, I'll sing what I said, we come and we go, that's a thing that I keep in the back of my head..."もっと詳しく
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旅行者yes dear, there really is a song for everything
2022/10/01返信する
旅行者❤️
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日20
2022年10月2日日曜日 17:26
☀️ 25 °C
海抜: 793 m
スペイン Frómista 42.263333, -4.39833342°15’48” N 4°23’54” W
1
Stage 18: Castrojeriz to Fromista
2022年10月2日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
24.9 km/15.4 miles, 43°-78°, about 8 hours
Long day today, not much shade, water or places to stop with any services open. The last 3.5 miles were a bit of a struggle as right shin became quite cranky but at least it was along a canal and shaded by trees. It was hard to leave the beautiful hotel in Casteojeriz this morning but onward we must go. Ran into 2 brothers from Australia who I hadn't seen since way back before Pamplona. They had been enjoying a rest day here and we had a pleasant dinner in the restaurant here at Hotel Rural Oasibeth with a woman from Utah I met last night. I love the ever morphing Camino family that develops along the way, the comradery and mutual support.
There was a long stretch today of review of relationships past and present (they say this middle third stage on the meseta is the mental stage after the physical break-in of the first stage) and intense gratitude for the people and experiences in my life. And every time something got to a seemingly unbearable point there was some kind of relief that appeared- a bit of shade, a cool breeze, a friendly word from a passing Pilgrim, a lovely memory, a period of physical ease when no body part was complaining. I keep finding that I can go farther than I think I can, that I can draw on deep resources when I need to. Intense gratitude!もっと詳しく
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旅行者Digging deeper and deeper. Such an inspiration.
2022/10/02返信する
旅行者 Cool canal
2022/10/04返信する
旅行者You are sounding really strong and confident , good job !
2022/10/04返信する
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日21
2022年10月3日月曜日 10:27
☀️ 12 °C
海抜: 787 m
スペイン Revenga de Campos 42.283333, -4.4842°16’60” N 4°28’48” W
2 1 1
Stage 19: Fromista-Carrion de los Condes
2022年10月3日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C
18.7 km/11.6 miles, 46°-78°, 6.25 hours
Took the Aussie brothers' advice (one worked in IT and has an app for everything) and took the slightly shorter route today that went along the road, rather than the scenic river route. I did the scenic river route into Burgos and sometimes scenic is just too dang long. Good choice for the team today, the path was a nice wide gravel one, without a lot of the large rocks that make me stumbley, the road was not very busy and there were nicely spaced towns with refreshments and bathrooms. Tomorrow starting out is a 17 km/ 10 mile stretch with nothing, so maybe no coffee for me in the morning. I've reserved in the first town at 10 miles, the others I've been chummy with lately are going further so I may not see them for a while. We're all thinking to arrive in Santiago about the same time so maybe we'll meet up again then, and we're on WhatsApp. We pass the halfway point tomorrow, hard to believe.
I went to a get together at the church run donativo Albergue close by, run by some Augustinian nuns. I came in late (getting my clothes from the laundromat) so missed the sharing of our names, where we're from and why we're doing the Camino, but was thinking that how I would have answered is that I'm doing it for gratitude- for this gift of life, for my family and friends and church community, and as a way to focus on prayer. We sang some songs in various languages and the nuns said they would pray for us. Then dinner with some of the usual suspects- the pilgrim menu del dia for 14€ with choice of first and second courses and dessert, wine included. Now to bed in my ultra modern high tech hotel room, alarm set for 6:30 to get on the road by 0800. Buenos noches😴もっと詳しく
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John EslerThanks from the Aussies
2022/10/04返信する
旅行者hey there!
2022/10/04返信する
旅行者 Lovely room
2022/10/04返信する
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日22
2022年10月4日火曜日 17:44
☀️ 26 °C
海抜: 859 m
スペイン Arroyo Cueza de Cabañas 42.328551, -4.80454342°19’43” N 4°48’16” W
2
Stage 20: Carrion-Calzadilla de la Cueza
2022年10月4日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
17 km/10 miles, 46°-74°, about 5.5 hours. Left Carrion a little later than planned as I found it hard to get up before 0700. Left my phone charger in the room which I was sure I was never going to do. So I may be offline until I can find another one. My next stop, Sahagún, is big enough I should be able to find one there. Was rather slow going as right lower leg was quite unhappy, on the top of the foot going up into the front of my lower leg. The muscles used to dorsiflex, or pull the toes up, are painful and the area was red and swollen when I got here. The kind bar man gave me a bag of ice, that and some naproxen are helping considerably. The hostal I'm staying in has a restaurant and serves dinner at 6:30! So I don't have to walk far to find food. It's 13.9, let's just call it 14, miles to Sahagún tomorrow, if this isn't feeling better I may take a taxi. I'm almost at the halfway point, feet don't fail me now! The expansive flat landscape of the meseta reminds me of Nebraska or Iowa, thank goodness I'm walking it in October in the 60s and 70s, it would have been unbearable in the summer.
And now, a siesta before dinner.もっと詳しく
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旅行者 I don't think so Dorothy
2022/10/04返信する
旅行者I think a taxi is a splendid idea
2022/10/04返信する
旅行者“Jesus walks God show me the way because the devils trying to break me down. Jesus walks with me. The only thing I pray is that my feet don’t fail me now!”
2022/10/05返信する
旅行者On your theme of musical lyrics…. My favorite Kanye😘
2022/10/05返信する
旅行者♥️
2022/10/05返信する
旅行者 That certainly does look like where I grew up in Eastern WA!
2022/10/05返信する
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日23
2022年10月5日水曜日 13:10
☀️ 22 °C
海抜: 863 m
スペイン San Nicolás del Real Camino 42.366667, -4.97166742°22’0” N 4°58’18” W
1 1 1
Stage 21: Calzadilla de la Cueza-Sahagún
2022年10月5日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
22.4 km/13.9 miles, 46°-75°, about 7.5 hours
The foot felt so much better today, I started early at 7:15, the first time I've used a light to walk with. By 8:00 I didn't need it anymore. I stopped every chance I got to sit down, rest and eat something, so grateful not to be in pain. By 10 miles the pain started to return and I was getting stumbley. A strategically placed park with picnic tables and shade appeared just as I was about to fall over and turned out to be the geographic center of the Camino. So I have passed the halfway mark! Found my hostal in Sahagún and did the usual chores- shower, laundry, book the next couple nights, go in search of food. Reconnected with a couple from Longview I first met in Navarrete,and keep tag teaming with, and a couple from Denmark that stayed in the same hostal with me in Fromista and we made a merry band for dinner. I'm going to go to the Tourist Office in the morning when it opens at 9:00 to get my halfway certificate, then walk the 8.5 miles to Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos. I've been walking since September 13, need to try to plot out my stages for the rest of the Way. The plan was to be in Porto, Portugal October 22. That would mean some long stages the next couple weeks. Will have to get input from the team on that.もっと詳しく
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旅行者Wow you are half way , big congrats 🎉🎉🎉🎉❤️❤️❤️🎈🎈🎈
2022/10/05返信する
旅行者 Oh that looks so good! I love Spanish tortilla!!!
2022/10/05返信する
旅行者 😂
2022/10/05返信する
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日24
2022年10月6日木曜日 8:47
⛅ 11 °C
海抜: 833 m
スペイン Sahagún 42.37, -5.02666742°22’12” N 5°1’36” W
2 1
Stage 22: Sahagún-Calzadilla
2022年10月6日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C
Calzadilla de los Hermanillos (too long for the title) except that I missed the cutoff for the alternate route here and was in Bercianos del Real Camino before I realized it. Was just not having it this morning. I can feel the need for a rest day, luckily have 2 nights booked in Leon Saturday and Sunday.
I got my beautifully printed halfway certificate at the tourist office when it opened at 9:00, had a proud and happy moment, then started the march out of Sahagún, cool overcast and windy. 53°-66°, got to Bercianos about 12:30, only about 10.5 km/6.5 miles, first place with any services. That's too long for second coffee for me. Was so grumpy, just stumping along, head down, that's why I missed the cutoff. It was a couple hours before anybody got a civil "buen Camino" out of me.
It's getting harder to find accommodations as I get closer to Santiago, due to the rebound glut of pilgrims. I'm worrying about what I'm going to do for the last 100 km, the minimum distance one can walk to get the Compostela, as the numbers walking increase dramatically at that point. Already I find large chattering groups going by to be a disruption, but I guess that's because I'm attached to having my own private Camino. I realize they're having their own Caminos so I enlarge my heart to include them and send them a silent blessing as they pass. We're each doing it alone and we're all in it together. Insight for the day.
Anyway, got a taxi to the town I was supposed to have walked to and the Casa El Cura kindly let me in early. Nice not to feel bone tired and beat up. Tomorrow will be about 11 miles to Reliegos. Time for a siesta.もっと詳しく
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Kevin EslerLovely weather today eh?
2022/10/06返信する
旅行者definitely not too hot, a bit of fall chill in the air
2022/10/06返信する
旅行者 Yum!
2022/10/06返信する
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日25
2022年10月7日金曜日 13:26
⛅ 20 °C
海抜: 848 m
スペイン Reliegos 42.476667, -5.33542°28’36” N 5°20’6” W
Stage 23: Calzadilla-Reliegos
2022年10月7日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
17.6 km/10.9 miles, 53°-69°, 5 hours
That's a rather fast pace for me, and probably why the right foot is trying to convince me it's developing shin splints. Ice, elevation and ibuprofen are putting that idea to rest.
I stayed in a lovely casa rural last night in the tiny town of Calzadilla de los Hermanillos where the hardworking husband and wife proprietors served us 4 guests a gorgeous dinner of local specialties made with fresh local ingredients including more vegetables than I've eaten the whole way.
I walked out this morning with Kate from New York who kindly walked at my slow pace for the first 3 miles and the wonderful conversation and comradery made the flat farmland fly by. Then a fascinating woman from England came by and accompanied me to the turning to my stop for the day, as I was worried about missing it after yesterday. I think that's the longest I've walked with anyone and it was such a gift to help keep me going on this rather long featureless stretch with no services. The Camino provides!
Tomorrow will be a long day, 15 miles into the city of León. If right foot is still cranky, I may take the bus the last 8 kms to avoid the trek on pavement through the industrial outskirts.もっと詳しく
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John EslerGood idea to hitch a ride for the last 8km into Leon. The Aussies will be. Use the time saved to explore Leon.
2022/10/07返信する
旅行者Good idea, thanks
2022/10/07返信する
Kevin Esler“Pavement does nothing for the body and less for the soul.” - A wise man.
2022/10/07返信する
旅行者Agreed
2022/10/07返信する
旅行者Yes you hitch that ride , you are supporting the local economy
2022/10/07返信する
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日26
2022年10月8日土曜日 11:48
⛅ 17 °C
海抜: 837 m
スペイン Parque Del Cid Campeador 42.598333, -5.56542°35’54” N 5°33’54” W
1 1 1 1 2 2
Stage 24: Reliegos-León
2022年10月8日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
6 km/ 3.6 miles on foot, 20km/12.4 miles by taxi, 53°-65°
Gimped the 6 km into Mansilla de las Mulas this morning, where I found coffee, food, an ATM, a pharmacy and a taxi to León, in that order. The wonderful pharmacist fitted me with a slip on ankle compression sleeve and some ibuprofen topical gel. I now have the hope of actually completing the Camino.
I found out the bus to León wouldn't run till 4:19 pm so sprung for a taxi. Arrived to a bustling León with everyone out strolling, visiting and sitting in cafes. Toured the awesome cathedral, perused a medieval craft fair and now am treating myself to lunch on the Plaza Regla with a fantastic view of the cathedral. Will check into my hotel at 3:00 pm.
Addendum: Discovered the reason the only room I could find in León was in a 4 star hotel was because their big autumn festival dedicated to the lesser known Saint Froilán is in progress, ending tomorrow. There will be live music tonight in Plaza Mayor, right outside this hotel. Party!もっと詳しく
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John Esler Now that’s what we Aussies call slumming it in style.
2022/10/08返信する
旅行者 Gorgeous cathedral
2022/10/08返信する
旅行者 Wow gorgeous
2022/10/08返信する
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日27
2022年10月9日日曜日 9:55
⛅ 10 °C
海抜: 840 m
スペイン Plaza San Marcelo 42.596667, -5.56666742°35’48” N 5°34’0” W
1
1 2
Rest day in León
2022年10月9日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C
Resting up and getting ready to hit the trail again tomorrow. Visited the Gaudi Museum in the Casa Botines, and the Museo de León, which was a 3D illustration of a lot of the McCullough text for third year of EfM- A History of Christianity: The First Three Thousand Years. A light lunch of crepes, nice long nap, contemplating dinner options.もっと詳しく
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John Esler Nice shot
2022/10/09返信する
旅行者 Fascinating montage of humanity and history
2022/10/11返信する
旅行者 Wow very artistic window
2022/10/11返信する
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日28
2022年10月10日月曜日 11:08
⛅ 12 °C
海抜: 887 m
スペイン Valverde de la Virgen 42.568333, -5.68166742°34’6” N 5°40’54” W
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4 1
Stage 25: León -Villadangos del Páramo
2022年10月10日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
13.1 km/8.1 mi, 51°-61°, about 3.75 hours walking after 7.7 km/15 minutes on the bus to La Virgin del Camino on the outskirts of León. I wanted to avoid the miles of urban walking on pavement out of León while I seem to be recovering from shin splints. Ended up walking on a fair amount of pavement even so, though mainly on a gravel path running alongside the N-120 highway. A lovely cool, mostly overcast day, the terrain becoming more varied. Checked into the Hostal Alto Páramo, iced and elevated the minimally complaining right lower extremity, had a hearty lunch and am now relaxing, catching up on reading and plotting out my remaining stages to Santiago, mulling over what all this experience has meant to me so far. Didn't take many pictures today, mostly thoughtful.もっと詳しく
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John EslerWise to avoid the pavement out of Leon. Hope you are able to continue and experience Galicia.
2022/10/10返信する
John Esler Wow!
2022/10/10返信する
Kevin Esler You are leading in the stork nest count contest: 3 on a single edifice.
2022/10/10返信する
Kevin EslerHmm might be 4!
2022/10/10返信する
旅行者They are starting to appear regularly aren't they
2022/10/10返信する
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日29
2022年10月11日火曜日 19:03
⛅ 17 °C
海抜: 881 m
スペイン Astorga 42.455562, -6.05529642°27’20” N 6°3’19” W
2 1 1 1 3 1 1
Stage 26: Villadangos-Astorga
2022年10月11日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
@#?? km/16-18?? miles (saw varying estimates), maybe it's better not to know, decided to not worry about it and just keep walking till I got there, and I survived. Left at 0745 before dawn, the path was well lit by street lights leaving town. Thankfully there were well placed villages and another funky donativo rest stop to break it up on the northern variant after Hospital de Orbigo, away from the N-120. That's all I'm going to say about today, for now. Laundry and supplies shopping in order as tomorrow is national holiday and stores will be closed. Pictures to follow.もっと詳しく
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旅行者 Those stones must be really old
2022/10/11返信する
旅行者 Haha
2022/10/11返信する
旅行者 Spectacular color of dirt
2022/10/11返信する
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日30
2022年10月12日水曜日 18:31
☀️ 15 °C
海抜: 1,426 m
スペイン Foncebadón 42.491162, -6.34154842°29’28” N 6°20’30” W
2
Stage 27: Astorga-Foncebadón
2022年10月12日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
Another umpteen kms, probably about 26/16 some miles, the last 6 km/3.6 miles of which were up the side of a mountain, 9 hours, 46°-68°
The idea being to go a little further today to make tomorrow's summiting of the highest point on the Camino easier. Tomorrow I'll get to the Cruz de Ferro, the highest elevation on the Camino. The elevation gain is spread out longer and starting from higher elevation to begin with, so not as tough as the Pyrenees but significant none the less. Aside from Santiago, the Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross) may be the spiritual high point of the Camino, the place where centuries of pilgrims have left a stone or other memento representing a burden relinquished, a thanksgiving or prayer request. I have carried a little pouch of items to be laid there tomorrow, feel like I need to prepare. But first, shower, laundry and FOOD.もっと詳しく
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旅行者 If you only knew Spanish!
2022/10/14返信する
旅行者exactly! I can kind of catch the drift...
2022/10/14返信する
旅行者Spiritual moment
2022/10/18返信する
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