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Camino de Santiago
  • Levana Fletcher

Camino de Santiago

A 54-day adventure by Levana Read more
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  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Leaving Estella in the morning
    Irache monastery and wine fountain coming upFree wine fountain, too early in the morning for meAmazing metalsmith workshopLast good bar cafe rest stop villageTiny market in Villamayor de Monjardin with cold drinksRemains of castle, I'm not going up thereJust wheat fields after Villamayor de Monjardin1And some vineyardsLast shade and water for miles

    Stage 7: Estella to Los Arcos

    September 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    13.4 miles, 7 hours, 50°-84°. Before this all turns into a blur of exhaustion I've got to record some of it. Every day seems like a year. I left Estella later than usual because I waited for the post office to open to get some postcard stamps and to mail a box of stuff from my pack ahead to Santiago. I've pared it down even more but am still sending the big backpack ahead for a couple more days and walking with a daypack because now the mid-back has gone on strike. Just when hips and knees had fully signed on. I think it's the daypack I've been using. So today (I'm writing this Wednesday) I went to a sporting goods store dedicated to the needs of those walking the Camino and got a Deuter German made daypack designed for women that seems to fit my body better. Here's hoping. I want to get to the point where I can just enjoy the walk without some screaming distraction of bodily discomfort.
    Hopefully I'll remember the walk to Los Arcos when I look at the pictures...all I remember now are the hallucinatory last few miles on gravel through open wheat fields in 84° with no shade. When I got into town I called a taxi to the truck stop hotel I had a reservation at a mile and a half out of town off the freeway. Met some lovely Norwegian folks in the dining room. Slept like a log.    Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Stage 8: Los Arcos to Viana

    September 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    18.4 kms/11.4 miles, 6.5 hrs, 49°-75°. Somehow my pace has picked up a bit, even though my mid-back below the shoulder blades is so sore. Pleasant temperatures today with a nice breeze. Played tag team with a delightful Irish couple all day. They've been walking the Camino in segments for several years, starting from Pamplona this time and ending in Logrono tomorrow. Didn't take many pictures today, was kind of in a zone. Arrived about 2:30 to a private hostal, the host was away but had left me a lovely salad, bread and cold drinks. I have my own room and bathroom and use of the washing machine and dryer! Walked back into town and found the Irish couple again, had the pilgrim special menu at a restaurant bar, which they serve "early" for pilgrims, rather than having to wait until 8:00 when dinner usually starts. Also ran into a bunk mate from Orisson, Yuko from San Francisco, so good to see her.
    More ponderings today about the nature of suffering, the meaning of pilgrimage, the limitations of the human body, etc. Might make sense out of some of it after some sleep 😴    Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Leaving Viana 0745
    San Felices presiding over goings out and comings inOne of many freeway underpassesNew style road markers in Rioja areaLogroñoGoose game in courtyard of Logroños church211Long way leaving Logroños

    Stage 9: Viana to Navarrete

    September 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    21.8 kms/13.5 miles, 49°-78°, 8 hours. Was a day of contrasts- started off from Viana chipper and optimistic, hit a wall after Logrono and went through the "dim and grismals" for quite a while. Arrived in Navarrete in the heat of the day when everything still closed for siesta. After a shower and rest I reemerged and wandered around the charming little town (love the tiny pocket parks, benches and planters everywhere) and visited the amazing church. I will have to read up on the history of why such a small town has such a sumptuous church. I've never seen so much gold in one place. I saw a few familiar faces. I seem to have fallen into a loose cohort of other slow walkers, we pass each other, nod smile offer an encouraging word or bit of humor. It's a nice mix of familiarity and independence, everyone going at their own pace and doing their own thing. I overcame my usual reserve and invited some folks to join me for dinner- a couple from Longview Washington and a young man from Wales. Had a wonderful meal of Pintxos or tapas, with chocolate mousse and hot tea for dessert. A reward for the difficulties of the day. A relatively easy day tomorrow I hope, "only" 17 kms/10 miles to Najera.Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Beautiful lake past bird sanctuary
    Rioja wine area1No explanation just "Mooo! I am king of this hill!"1More prayers2Church in Navarrete, amazing!2Pintxos for dinner!The street my hostal is on

    Few extra photos

    September 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Yesterday was a scenic day, had to add a few more pics

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    1Leaving Navarrete about 0800
    Another view of the churchDesayunoSmall village with big billboard, last stop for elevensesWe are outstanding in a fieldNájeraOther side of the river1Welcoming lobby of Hotel Duques de Nájera2Two pilgrims go into a bar...

    Stage 10: Naverrete to Nájera

    September 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    17 km/10 miles, 52°-71°, 5 hours! Arrived in Nájera at 1:00, that's the earliest I've arrived anywhere so far, and the most amazing part is that my back was not screaming at me the whole way! We may have a winner in this new daypack, my body may be getting used to this finally, or it may have been that I walked most of the way with a couple other folks going my speed, talking laughing and singing the whole way. The miles flew by and I wasn't hyper focused on my own sensations. Whatever it was, it was a gift and I am so grateful. I'm tired but not dead tired, and everything does not hurt, hallelujah!
    I found a restaurant serving food early, hit a grocery store when it reopened at 5:00 and scored supplies for tomorrow: 13 miles to Santo Domingo without many services enroute. I have a reservation to stay with Cistercian nuns, should be interesting. What I wouldn't give for a nice hot cup of tea right now. Buenos noches    Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    1Leaving Nájera 0800
    Silly photo opExodus1Means I've walked over 200 kms!!1Raindrops are falling on my headElevenses at 10:00Drafted these old guys for a whileOnwardThat kind of afternoon, lowering skiesAt the crossroads

    Stage 11: Nájera to Santo Domingo

    September 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    20.9 km/13 miles, about 7 hours, 52°-59°, cool cloudy with intermittent rain showers, got to try the poncho - it works great! 🌧️ Bit of a slog after last good rest stop for elevenses (at 10:00) in Azofra 5.8 km in. Got into an interesting conversation about religion/ spirituality during which a woman from the Netherlands shared that she just found out she has bladder cancer. We all prayed with her before heading back out. You just never know...each day is a gift.
    Mid- back lodged intermittent complaints today- its main demand seems to be "you must stop, sit down and take off the d*** pack at least every two hours!!" Seems reasonable.

    I have thoughts, I am not my thoughts.
    I have sensations, I am not my sensations.
    I have emotions, I am not my emotions.

    I'm experimenting with walking with the Minimal Required Effort (MRE- and/or meals ready to eat). How do I walk in as relaxed and graceful a manner as possible? without extra effort? Resisting or having an emotional reaction to my sensations/experience is extra and adds stress. Where am I clenching? (even my jaw! when I get into grim determination mode). Surrender into the experience, breathe.... experience is experience, suffering is optional. (Hah, great in theory 😂)

    I've decided the poles slow me down sometimes, the effort of swinging them with every stride, so I'm playing around with them. Sometimes I hold them horizontally, or swing them ahead together every few steps (pretty soon I'll be twirling them like batons).

    Got checked into the Cistercian monastery, into my spare but comfortable room, have showered and done laundry and it's 6:00 pm, dinner isn't till 9:00! I'm so hungry I don't know what I'm going to do till then!    Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    1Oh my, good morning
    1Second breakfast spot in GrañonNot many distance markers in these parts, just directionalWill it or won't it rainBig trucks, I remember when these would have set a certain boy's heart a pitterpatGreat funky rest stop run on donation2Spotify playlist came in handy for the last few kms1Howdy pilgrim

    Stage 12: Santo Domingo to Belorado

    September 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    I'm not sure I can write about yesterday until I recover from today but don't want to get behind so here goes.
    Sunday (yesterday) was a long day- 22.9 km/14.2 miles, 43°-59°, took me about 8 hours because I stopped every chance I got for food, coffee, water or just to sit down and rest for a few minutes, to appease the grumbling ranks. Feet were expressing doubts about the current regimen but were somewhat reassured by the frequent breaks and a massage with a sample Lush cream bar that has survived in the toiletry kit. Arrived about 5:00 pm to the only place I could find a reservation in Belarado, the Albergue Cuatro Cantones, 4 floors of dorm rooms, a restaurant and a hang out lounge. Was in a bunk room with 5 other people, thankfully in a bottom bunk. Shower room was decent and they washed and dried my clothes for some extra euros. Dinner was great, the kitchen was a well oiled machine cranking out starters, main course and dessert for maybe 80 people? Rioja wine flowed freely. Then the futile attempt to get any sleep ensued, even with ear plugs. I am now convinced I need private accommodations the rest of the way, because without the restorative power of sleep, I won't be able to complete this pilgrimage. Decided on an easy day to Villafranca de Montes de Oca tomorrow, only 11.9 km/7.5 miles.Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Leaving Belarado
    Bed's eye view of apartment

    Stage 13: Belorado to Villafranca

    September 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    So I made it the 11.9 km/7.5 miles to Villafranca de Montes de Oca today, just barely- left hip has resigned, mid back is sulking and feet aren't talking to me. It took me about 4 hours in 44°-56°, shuffling and lurching like the walking dead. I need another layer for these cool mornings, a thin fleece or windbreaker. We are staying in bed this afternoon in my cute little studio apartment (maid service is lacking, had to make my own cup of tea.) Will venture out after siesta in search of dinner. Self administered Reiki for half an hour got left hip to calm down, mid back and feet have agreed to only minimally required effort the rest of the day. Another relatively easy day planned for tomorrow, 18.3km/11.4 miles to Atapuerca.

    P.S. Beyond the whinging, I keep coming back to the central reason for this trek- spiritual pilgrimage. I've wondered if I'm going to be like Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz and find that I've had what I've been searching for within me all along. Even so, there is value in making the journey, in what I discover about myself, other people, the world, God. Most days I remember to touch base with Hour by Hour and The Pilgrim's Devotional, conveniently loaded in the Kindle app on my phone. And I like to think the handmade (by Susan Chloupek) Anglican rosary I'm carrying in a pouch near my heart is praying itself, like a Tibetan prayer flag in the wind, with every step. 🙏♥️    Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Leaving Villafranca 0800
    Into the woodsFun fact- vehicles can appear at any timeMonument to people who died in Spanish civil warRoadside shrineFunky donativo rest stop in the woods with great tunesSan Juan de Ortega church1Follow the yellow brick roadCan you find the yellow arrow2.2 km equals half a legua, you know what they say about that last half legua...Cozy room in casa rural El Pesebre

    Stage 14: Villafranca to Atapuerca

    September 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    18.3 km/11.4 miles, 46°-60°, about 6 hours
    After 10 hours of sleep, a good dinner and breakfast at the big albergue/hotel up the hill, with the only restaurant in town, all players on Team Levana's Physical Being were back on board today. "All we ask for is deep, restoratative rest every night, adequate fuel and hydration and we will do this thing you seem to really want to do." OK, thanks team, message received, I promise to be a better team leader.

    A couple days ago, at the last 5 km into Belorado I think, I stopped at a mini-mart on the side of the road because it had a large WC Publico sign, which you never see (it was clean and had toilet paper! a gift from God). There was a young woman about my daughter's age with her feet up airing, who looked to be in some discomfort. Turns out, she was from Seattle and considering nursing as a career! And she had developed blisters. That's why I've been carrying that blister kit! We shared some potato chips (salt) and an Orange Kas (sugar) an orange soda made with real OJ that's not too sweet, and I was able to fix her up with moleskin. She took off again at a blistering (literally!) pace with a gargantuan pack. I haven't seen her since. God bless and keep her.

    When younger folks go blasting past me, I mentally pat them and think "that's nice dear, good luck with that" in a kind, not snarky way, really! I give them a smile and a "buen Camino!" then resume my slow and steady pace after getting ruffled by their wake. I dimly remember always being in a rush in my younger years, always hurrying to get somewhere or worrying about being late for something. What was I hurrying toward? Success? Happiness? Just trying to get it right- the project of adulting in this modern world. I remember in my 40s having the sensation of having reached the top of the rollercoaster ride, that I was looking toward the end rather than the middle, and thinking "I must have arrived at whatever I thought I was striving for when I was younger without noticing!" I wonder if our bodies slow down naturally as we age to ease us into eldering. As my time in this earthly life shortens I feel the desire to slow down and savor the time I have left. I'm grateful for this opportunity to slow down even more and appreciate this precious NOW. 🐢    Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Helpful map from French folks showing the alternative path
    Leaving Atapuerca 0800Wait, this is the path??Thank God we made it up that rockpileI think that's Burgos in the distanceBeautiful little flowers sprouting out of the rocksRefueling stop 10:00Ultra modern hotel, I'm too grubby to sit on that bedView from cute glassed in balconyTasty bar snacks for late lunch

    Stage 15: Atapuerco to Burgos

    September 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    About 20 km/12.4 miles, 40°-62°, about 6 hours
    Left Atapuerca 0800 in 40° with a brisk headwind, all layers on, wearing my puffy jacket tied around my neck/shoulders like a muffler/cape. Time to dig out the gloves and wool buff from the depths of the big pack. There are shopping opportunities in Burgos! city of about 200,000 with a big Decathalon store. I took the alternative path (probably longer) into the city that bypasses the main industrial areas and comes in along the river and a many miles long beautiful park with nary a restroom in sight! The last 3 miles I was walking double time, made it to the hotel Rimbombin in the center of the old town, not far from the cathedral, without an accident. Next- shower, laundry and food, in that order. I'll be here 2 nights- luuuxery!
    Folks who use tracking apps say the guidebook distances are usually short by at least 10% but I haven't found one that doesn't use up phone battery, any suggestions?    Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Burgos cathedral
    He looks as tired as I feel at the end of a day of walkingThat's one classy serving of fizzy waterMore tasty bar snacks for lunchGot myself some lightweight sneaks and cute socks, no more cold feet!Giant topiary pilgrim near Museum of Human Evolution2Inside museumHe was not messing aroundRiver park in the middle of the cityThe mighty warrior

    Rest day in Burgos

    September 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Having fun on my rest day, it's rainy and cool, good day to be taking it easy. I went to the cathedral yesterday afternoon but it was so huge and elaborate I could hardly take it in, more like visiting a museum than a working church. Took a taxi the 1.8 miles to the Decathalon store this morning as my legs were still feeling a little stumpy, got a windbreaker, some heavier pants (have been wearing a super lightweight, quick drying pair) and some thin socks to wear with my sandals in the evening- pilgrim chic!
    Walked back to town to remind the team we'll be doing this again tomorrow and not to get complacent. This afternoon I plan to go to the Human Evolution Museum, then wander around some more and window shop.    Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Pilgrim cluster leaving Burgos 0800
    The sun came out about noonProof of progress, 300 km/186 miSmall town with beautiful muralsHornillos in the distance

    Stage 16: Burgos to Hornillos

    September 30, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    20.9 km/13 mi, 45°-60°, about 6 hours? wait how is that possible? I was so slow today, Tortuga was in -1 gear, old people with full packs were chugging past me. It was a long, slow, cold, grumpy slog out of Burgos, nothing was open as I was leaving. Who knew I could walk seven miles before coffee?? Luckily no one tried to talk to me. I'm beginning to think it's harder to come back after a rest day. I made it to Hornillos del Camino, where I had not been able to find lodging, and someone from the hotel I did book a room in 3 miles away came to pick me up, they will deposit me back on the trail in the morning. So it was a lot of praying, breathing and putting one foot in front of the other today. What else are ya gonna do?Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Leaving Hornillos 0830, 39°
    5 km to Hontanas, that's a walk around GreenlakeElevenses in HontanasSuch a warm, welcoming church in Hontanas2Space for reflection, worship and candles♥️OnwardEntering the meseta- not entirely flat...yetPerfect fall day, 60° with mild breezeLong tree lined avenueTrail goes through ruined monasteryCasteojeriz in distance- if my hotel is up there we've got a problem1They always seem to do it...1Gorgeous hotel room at Quinta San FranciscoGardensCourtyard, the lounger I'm in is so comfortable I may never move againRemains of monastery2I may have died and gone to heaven

    Stage 17: Hornillos to Castrojeriz

    October 1, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    20 km/ 12.4 mi, 39°-69°, about 5.5 hours. My slow must be getting faster. Beautiful fall day entering the meseta- the high central plain. All systems go, chugging along, only minor random complaints from the team.
    Gotta get this breakfast and dinner thing worked out. When breakfast is offered it's usually just coffee and bread, which doesn't get me far. Sometimes the first town with food options isn't for several miles and I'm crashing and burning by then. Dinner, when served early for pilgrims, is at 7:30, otherwise not till 8:30-9:00. Have to watch for grocery stores to stock up on sustaining snacks.
    Tonight I'm staying in a beautiful hotel built on the site of a Franciscan monastery. It's so lovely I may not want to leave, the gardens are gorgeous and full of scented herbs like rosemary, lavender and mint. Heavenly!    Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Random insights

    October 1, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    When you're walking for 6-8 hours a day, you have a lot of time to think...

    One of the main things I've gotten from walking the Camino so far is being happy with going at my own pace. Ta-dah! Isn't that a great metaphor for life?? I could elaborate on that but it's siesta time....

    We're all walking the Way. I feel kinship with all who have walked, are walking now and will walk, we're all walking together on this journey of earthly life, learning how to love. We feel ripples from the past and are sending ripples into the future. Buen Camino! OK, like that Edie Brickell song "shove me into shallow water, before I get too deep" and Paul Simon (who she happens to be married to btw) " I know what I know, I'll sing what I said, we come and we go, that's a thing that I keep in the back of my head..."    Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Leaving Quinta San Francisco Hotel, Casteojeriz 0830, 43°
    And up we goLooking back to CasteojerizAnd down we goAnd the flat part beginsThe endurance part of the afternoon begins- low gear/ trance zoneNearing Fromista1Crossing the canal

    Stage 18: Castrojeriz to Fromista

    October 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    24.9 km/15.4 miles, 43°-78°, about 8 hours
    Long day today, not much shade, water or places to stop with any services open. The last 3.5 miles were a bit of a struggle as right shin became quite cranky but at least it was along a canal and shaded by trees. It was hard to leave the beautiful hotel in Casteojeriz this morning but onward we must go. Ran into 2 brothers from Australia who I hadn't seen since way back before Pamplona. They had been enjoying a rest day here and we had a pleasant dinner in the restaurant here at Hotel Rural Oasibeth with a woman from Utah I met last night. I love the ever morphing Camino family that develops along the way, the comradery and mutual support.
    There was a long stretch today of review of relationships past and present (they say this middle third stage on the meseta is the mental stage after the physical break-in of the first stage) and intense gratitude for the people and experiences in my life. And every time something got to a seemingly unbearable point there was some kind of relief that appeared- a bit of shade, a cool breeze, a friendly word from a passing Pilgrim, a lovely memory, a period of physical ease when no body part was complaining. I keep finding that I can go farther than I think I can, that I can draw on deep resources when I need to. Intense gratitude!    Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Leaving Fromista 0845, 46°
    2"Poor boys and pilgrims with families and we are going to Graceland"Welcoming town for second breakfastSo many interesting Pilgrim sculpturesKitty watching me from the corn stubble1Weird angle shot of lunch below the churchCarrion de Los Condes1Another spiffy hotel room

    Stage 19: Fromista-Carrion de los Condes

    October 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    18.7 km/11.6 miles, 46°-78°, 6.25 hours
    Took the Aussie brothers' advice (one worked in IT and has an app for everything) and took the slightly shorter route today that went along the road, rather than the scenic river route. I did the scenic river route into Burgos and sometimes scenic is just too dang long. Good choice for the team today, the path was a nice wide gravel one, without a lot of the large rocks that make me stumbley, the road was not very busy and there were nicely spaced towns with refreshments and bathrooms. Tomorrow starting out is a 17 km/ 10 mile stretch with nothing, so maybe no coffee for me in the morning. I've reserved in the first town at 10 miles, the others I've been chummy with lately are going further so I may not see them for a while. We're all thinking to arrive in Santiago about the same time so maybe we'll meet up again then, and we're on WhatsApp. We pass the halfway point tomorrow, hard to believe.
    I went to a get together at the church run donativo Albergue close by, run by some Augustinian nuns. I came in late (getting my clothes from the laundromat) so missed the sharing of our names, where we're from and why we're doing the Camino, but was thinking that how I would have answered is that I'm doing it for gratitude- for this gift of life, for my family and friends and church community, and as a way to focus on prayer. We sang some songs in various languages and the nuns said they would pray for us. Then dinner with some of the usual suspects- the pilgrim menu del dia for 14€ with choice of first and second courses and dessert, wine included. Now to bed in my ultra modern high tech hotel room, alarm set for 6:30 to get on the road by 0800. Buenos noches😴    Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Leaving Carrion 0820, 46°
    "Out on the vast and subtle plains of mystery..." Joni Mitchell"Perseverance furthers..." I Ching2Could I be in Kansas?

    Stage 20: Carrion-Calzadilla de la Cueza

    October 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    17 km/10 miles, 46°-74°, about 5.5 hours. Left Carrion a little later than planned as I found it hard to get up before 0700. Left my phone charger in the room which I was sure I was never going to do. So I may be offline until I can find another one. My next stop, Sahagún, is big enough I should be able to find one there. Was rather slow going as right lower leg was quite unhappy, on the top of the foot going up into the front of my lower leg. The muscles used to dorsiflex, or pull the toes up, are painful and the area was red and swollen when I got here. The kind bar man gave me a bag of ice, that and some naproxen are helping considerably. The hostal I'm staying in has a restaurant and serves dinner at 6:30! So I don't have to walk far to find food. It's 13.9, let's just call it 14, miles to Sahagún tomorrow, if this isn't feeling better I may take a taxi. I'm almost at the halfway point, feet don't fail me now! The expansive flat landscape of the meseta reminds me of Nebraska or Iowa, thank goodness I'm walking it in October in the 60s and 70s, it would have been unbearable in the summer.
    And now, a siesta before dinner.    Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Light by 0800, helpful directions
    First coffee stop in LegidosNo fanfare, mileage-wise this is halfwayCrunch crunch crunch crunchSecond breakfast in Moratinos11Hobbitses??Actually no1Can you see the tiny kitty?Eclectic rest stop, third breakfast? Second lunch? Lost track, just eating every chance I gotThose last couple leguas...Strategically placed parkKing Alphonso founder of SahagúnThe geographic center of the Camino

    Stage 21: Calzadilla de la Cueza-Sahagún

    October 5, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    22.4 km/13.9 miles, 46°-75°, about 7.5 hours
    The foot felt so much better today, I started early at 7:15, the first time I've used a light to walk with. By 8:00 I didn't need it anymore. I stopped every chance I got to sit down, rest and eat something, so grateful not to be in pain. By 10 miles the pain started to return and I was getting stumbley. A strategically placed park with picnic tables and shade appeared just as I was about to fall over and turned out to be the geographic center of the Camino. So I have passed the halfway mark! Found my hostal in Sahagún and did the usual chores- shower, laundry, book the next couple nights, go in search of food. Reconnected with a couple from Longview I first met in Navarrete,and keep tag teaming with, and a couple from Denmark that stayed in the same hostal with me in Fromista and we made a merry band for dinner. I'm going to go to the Tourist Office in the morning when it opens at 9:00 to get my halfway certificate, then walk the 8.5 miles to Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos. I've been walking since September 13, need to try to plot out my stages for the rest of the Way. The plan was to be in Porto, Portugal October 22. That would mean some long stages the next couple weeks. Will have to get input from the team on that.Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Just sitting in another Spanish bar having a cafe con leche
    Outside the tourist officeMural in SahagúnLovely lavender benches and flowersLeaving Sahagún 0930, 53°2Why is that tiny house in a field?1Second breakfast while waiting for taxi

    Stage 22: Sahagún-Calzadilla

    October 6, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Calzadilla de los Hermanillos (too long for the title) except that I missed the cutoff for the alternate route here and was in Bercianos del Real Camino before I realized it. Was just not having it this morning. I can feel the need for a rest day, luckily have 2 nights booked in Leon Saturday and Sunday.
    I got my beautifully printed halfway certificate at the tourist office when it opened at 9:00, had a proud and happy moment, then started the march out of Sahagún, cool overcast and windy. 53°-66°, got to Bercianos about 12:30, only about 10.5 km/6.5 miles, first place with any services. That's too long for second coffee for me. Was so grumpy, just stumping along, head down, that's why I missed the cutoff. It was a couple hours before anybody got a civil "buen Camino" out of me.
    It's getting harder to find accommodations as I get closer to Santiago, due to the rebound glut of pilgrims. I'm worrying about what I'm going to do for the last 100 km, the minimum distance one can walk to get the Compostela, as the numbers walking increase dramatically at that point. Already I find large chattering groups going by to be a disruption, but I guess that's because I'm attached to having my own private Camino. I realize they're having their own Caminos so I enlarge my heart to include them and send them a silent blessing as they pass. We're each doing it alone and we're all in it together. Insight for the day.
    Anyway, got a taxi to the town I was supposed to have walked to and the Casa El Cura kindly let me in early. Nice not to feel bone tired and beat up. Tomorrow will be about 11 miles to Reliegos. Time for a siesta.    Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Dining room of casa rural
    CemeteryChurchOn the edge of the plainsOrange kitty on an orange wallLeaving town 0845, 53°A lot of this kind of scenery todayRest stopI'm happyDoor to nowhereHobbitses?? Actually wine cellars

    Stage 23: Calzadilla-Reliegos

    October 7, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    17.6 km/10.9 miles, 53°-69°, 5 hours
    That's a rather fast pace for me, and probably why the right foot is trying to convince me it's developing shin splints. Ice, elevation and ibuprofen are putting that idea to rest.
    I stayed in a lovely casa rural last night in the tiny town of Calzadilla de los Hermanillos where the hardworking husband and wife proprietors served us 4 guests a gorgeous dinner of local specialties made with fresh local ingredients including more vegetables than I've eaten the whole way.
    I walked out this morning with Kate from New York who kindly walked at my slow pace for the first 3 miles and the wonderful conversation and comradery made the flat farmland fly by. Then a fascinating woman from England came by and accompanied me to the turning to my stop for the day, as I was worried about missing it after yesterday. I think that's the longest I've walked with anyone and it was such a gift to help keep me going on this rather long featureless stretch with no services. The Camino provides!
    Tomorrow will be a long day, 15 miles into the city of León. If right foot is still cranky, I may take the bus the last 8 kms to avoid the trek on pavement through the industrial outskirts.    Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Leaving Reliegos 0800, 53°
    Mansilla de las Mulas, weary pilgrims statueWhat a hopeful face1León cathedral111Lunch2The nicest hotel room yet2

    Stage 24: Reliegos-León

    October 8, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    6 km/ 3.6 miles on foot, 20km/12.4 miles by taxi, 53°-65°
    Gimped the 6 km into Mansilla de las Mulas this morning, where I found coffee, food, an ATM, a pharmacy and a taxi to León, in that order. The wonderful pharmacist fitted me with a slip on ankle compression sleeve and some ibuprofen topical gel. I now have the hope of actually completing the Camino.
    I found out the bus to León wouldn't run till 4:19 pm so sprung for a taxi. Arrived to a bustling León with everyone out strolling, visiting and sitting in cafes. Toured the awesome cathedral, perused a medieval craft fair and now am treating myself to lunch on the Plaza Regla with a fantastic view of the cathedral. Will check into my hotel at 3:00 pm.
    Addendum: Discovered the reason the only room I could find in León was in a 4 star hotel was because their big autumn festival dedicated to the lesser known Saint Froilán is in progress, ending tomorrow. There will be live music tonight in Plaza Mayor, right outside this hotel. Party!    Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    1Love this view of Cathedral
    Best breakfast buffet ⭐Gift wrapped laundry!The morning after big festivities, must have hosed it downPreparing for Halloween 🎃Statue of Gaudi in front of building he designedCasa Botines, Gaudi MuseumOver the front door1St Jame's beheading with Herod looking onSt James the Pilgrim2Medieval fair, back of Gaudi building, top spires of Cathedral

    Rest day in León

    October 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Resting up and getting ready to hit the trail again tomorrow. Visited the Gaudi Museum in the Casa Botines, and the Museo de León, which was a 3D illustration of a lot of the McCullough text for third year of EfM- A History of Christianity: The First Three Thousand Years. A light lunch of crepes, nice long nap, contemplating dinner options.Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    1Proof of progress
    Elevenses at Valverde de la Virgen4Stork nests1Who lives there?

    Stage 25: León -Villadangos del Páramo

    October 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    13.1 km/8.1 mi, 51°-61°, about 3.75 hours walking after 7.7 km/15 minutes on the bus to La Virgin del Camino on the outskirts of León. I wanted to avoid the miles of urban walking on pavement out of León while I seem to be recovering from shin splints. Ended up walking on a fair amount of pavement even so, though mainly on a gravel path running alongside the N-120 highway. A lovely cool, mostly overcast day, the terrain becoming more varied. Checked into the Hostal Alto Páramo, iced and elevated the minimally complaining right lower extremity, had a hearty lunch and am now relaxing, catching up on reading and plotting out my remaining stages to Santiago, mulling over what all this experience has meant to me so far. Didn't take many pictures today, mostly thoughtful.Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Leaving the hostal 0745, 48°
    2Full moon set1With a for sale sign, nice little fixer upperHey buddy, I feel yaNice there's directions in this corn maze1Bridge at Hospital de Órbigo1Village welcoming committee3At the funky donativo rest stop1Astorga in the distance, and the mountains are comingWelcome to Astorga1Main square, church and my hotelSo happy about this vegetable stew

    Stage 26: Villadangos-Astorga

    October 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    @#?? km/16-18?? miles (saw varying estimates), maybe it's better not to know, decided to not worry about it and just keep walking till I got there, and I survived. Left at 0745 before dawn, the path was well lit by street lights leaving town. Thankfully there were well placed villages and another funky donativo rest stop to break it up on the northern variant after Hospital de Orbigo, away from the N-120. That's all I'm going to say about today, for now. Laundry and supplies shopping in order as tomorrow is national holiday and stores will be closed. Pictures to follow.Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Leaving Astorga 0830, 46°
    Another Gaudi building in AstorgaAstorga cathedralFront side2Encouraging words for pilgrimsApproaching freeway overpassOvercast and cool first half of dayThe mountains are closerLast rest stop El Ganso, 6 km to goLeaving El GansoEntering FoncebadónAnother fixer upper for sale

    Stage 27: Astorga-Foncebadón

    October 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Another umpteen kms, probably about 26/16 some miles, the last 6 km/3.6 miles of which were up the side of a mountain, 9 hours, 46°-68°
    The idea being to go a little further today to make tomorrow's summiting of the highest point on the Camino easier. Tomorrow I'll get to the Cruz de Ferro, the highest elevation on the Camino. The elevation gain is spread out longer and starting from higher elevation to begin with, so not as tough as the Pyrenees but significant none the less. Aside from Santiago, the Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross) may be the spiritual high point of the Camino, the place where centuries of pilgrims have left a stone or other memento representing a burden relinquished, a thanksgiving or prayer request. I have carried a little pouch of items to be laid there tomorrow, feel like I need to prepare. But first, shower, laundry and FOOD.Read more

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