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Spring Fling into the MediterrSpring Fling into the Mediterr
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  • PelancongSpring Fling into the Mediterr
    1
    Hari 42

    Talamone to Civitavecchio

    15 Mei 2023, Italia

    We were up early and hoped to find a grocery store for supplies so we hopped into the dry dinghy 😉 and Bob rowed us ashore. It was before 0800 so we wandered around the walled town, the Citadel and popped into a church. The little grocery store didn't have much that we needed but we managed to get the essentials: 🧀 and 🍷! We set off motoring past lovely villas, hotels, terraced gardens and spectacular cliffs. The sails went up and the rest of the day was further out so not too much to see. The wind and swells kept increasing and we reduced sail and surfed along. Not unlike the day to Marseille but not as wild! Civitavecchia is a major cruise port and we saw 4 cruise ships, 1 ferry and 1 riverboat cruise ship. There were also a number of freighters anchored out. We went into a marina a bit further on. Fortunately, it was calmer in the harbour and there was a fellow directing us to a spot and helping us to dock stern in with a mooring line at the bow. What a relief that I didn't have to do any leaping! It was a long 9 hour day so we got settled, had a drink then walked along the harbour to find a restaurant for dinner...and everything was closed!😪😡 We walked back to the boat wondering what we could eat for dinner besides the cheese and wine. I found a can of ratatouille, sliced the last of the bread and made salad. It sufficed. I was prepared to be disappointed at the facilities but found they were spacious, clean, with 🔥 water and a normal shower head. It felt luxurious! My mood improved considerably! However, I find it baffling that there were a number of restaurants, cafes, bars and boating stores at the marina but no grocery store and everything was closed! We used to joke on our bike trips that Mondays in Germany were always "ruhetag" /closed so maybe it's the same here! The wind continued its 20 knot blowing with a bit of rain but with a spectacular sunset and we called it a day's end.Baca selengkapnya

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  • PelancongSpring Fling into the Mediterr
    Hari 44

    A walk on the wild & thorny side😡😬

    17 Mei 2023, Italia ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    After a bit of a rocky night due to swells in the marina, we set off for Fiumicino(Rome). We motorsailed downwind and it was lovely as the weather improved, the wind was about 10 knots and we were moving with the swells. We could see planes coming and going from Rome's Airport as we neared the entrance to the Tiber River. With swells behind us, we surfed into the entrance reminiscent of Cap Breton but less wild as the entrance is wider and the wind and swells not as strong. Up the river there are boatyards all along and boats rafted 4 deep. We rafted up at a funky little marina with goats on the island across and numerous cats at the marina. A small problem tying up after catching our bumper on someone's bow anchor but a number of people leapt across boats to help. After our late lunch, we set off walking to town following Google maps for the best route. A 3.4 km walk we thought, except there are no sidewalks and no shoulders and the roadside bushes were full of thorns! The traffic was busy and when cars were coming too close to the edge, we'd leap into the bushes! We made it after an hour and said we'd bus back. Well, after a long and tedious Sim card installation requiring a passport (didn't have it but found a picture on the phone) and the repetition of a sentence in Italian (!) acknowledging who Bob was (dialect coaching required), we wandered around trying to find the right bus. It's now coming on 6 p.m. after a full day; the bus wasn't coming and there were no taxis available. So we set off walking a different route and ended up walking through a field of tall weeds and grass. When we finally got back to the boat at 7:30, I was covered in burrs, scratches and had thorns in my underwear! 🤯😖
    We were happy to eat, drink 🍺 shower🚿 and fall into bed. I don't think we'll forget that walk anytime soon!    Baca selengkapnya

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  • PelancongSpring Fling into the Mediterr
    Hari 45

    A night visitor

    18 Mei 2023, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    A good sailing day from the River Tiber requiring a number of tacks and we arrived at Anzio just before dinner. The harbour didn't look very busy so we went stern in between 2 others. A man came to help although shouting in Italian was not helping! An American couple was walking past and struck up a conversation. When the Italian told us €80 for the space but no toilets, showers or security, the American started negotiating on our behalf. In the end we were told it's the city's price so we decided to anchor outside the harbour off the beach. It was roly poly but we've had worse! At 9:15 p.m., we saw lights, heard an engine and whistling beside us. Bob went out to investigate and it was the Guardia coming to check our papers. We were in our pjs! The 3 men were very polite and friendly although translations were somewhat confusing - when asked how much cash we were carrying, Bob thought they were asking for the value of the boat! Bob received a very surprised look from them then finger rubbing gestures and pocket pointing cleared up that misunderstanding! After 30 minutes and a 3 page document completed, they left. We thought it was interesting/coincidence/suspicious that we got checked after refusing to pay the expensive harbour fee 🤷‍♀️. Who knows and no harm done.Baca selengkapnya

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  • PelancongSpring Fling into the Mediterr
    Hari 46

    Anzio to Gaeta and another visitor

    19 Mei 2023, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    After another roly poly night, we set off before 0800. I was happy to get moving. We set off along the coast which is very low with beaches backdropped by green hills and rocky mountains. We noticed a power boat without any markings on it coming up quickly behind us. More Guardia we wondered? Sure enough, the boat came within shouting distance to tell us we were in a military firing range zone! He asked where we were going and gave us a heading to maintain for 2 n.m. then we could carry on. It proved to be close to our heading anyway so no detour was required. We came to Monte Circeo, what used to be an island, and is where Odysseus lingered for a year under the spell of the enchantress, Circe, eating🥩 and drinking 🍷and enjoying her other attractions. There are massive walls of the ancient city of Circeii up the slopes of the mountain and lovely villas, and hotels on the rocky coast. The wind had picked up and the sun was finally making a comeback so we motorsailed avoiding logs floating ! 😬 From where, who knows! We came to the rocky promontory of Gaeta and decided to anchor off the beach beside the rocky cliff under ancient walls, a church and where the birds nest and swoop down to the sea. There were people swimming at the beach but before I could get organized to swim off the boat, it started sprinkling so I gave up the idea. It was calm and I could hear the water lapping against the rocks, the birds twittering and cawing and the church bells chiming. Lovely, and would be perfect without the rain!Baca selengkapnya

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  • PelancongSpring Fling into the Mediterr
    Hari 47

    What a difference a day makes...

    20 Mei 2023, Italia ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    After a calm night off Serapo Beach on the back side of Gaeta, we set out to round the promontory and go into the marina for laundry and info on summer storage. We rounded the corner into waves, swell and wind at 32 knots! We motored on thinking once we got to the harbour, all would be calm...no! Boats were rocking, bouncing and listing and we realized docking would be a nightmare so we headed back to the calm beach anchorage. It was a quick trip back! I was determined to get laundry done and stock up on groceries so we climbed in the dinghy and Bob rowed us ashore. We found the laundromat and grocery store, and walked into the marina. The staff were so welcoming and helpful and gave us info on where to eat and what to see. We took their advice and had a Gaeta special: a Tiella which is a savoury pizza pie with various seafood or vegetable fillings. We wandered around the medieval village and along the seafront in the light rain and wind. We got the laundry done and groceries bought and rowed back to the boat. As I told Bob, I am a low maintenance woman when I am prepared to row ashore to have clean and fresh smelling bedding and clothes, and that makes me happy! What didn't make me happy was that the wind direction was switching and the swells were coming in. It was Verdon/Villefranche/Anzio all over again! Bob slept on while I read until past 0300 when the rolling, rocking and bouncing lessened. Once again, when I woke up today, it was an opposite weather day!Baca selengkapnya

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  • PelancongSpring Fling into the Mediterr
    1
    Hari 48

    Gaeta to Gulf of Naples

    21 Mei 2023, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    A bad night of rolling, swinging, rocking but woke up to a calm and sunny morning. We rowed ashore to climb the promontory and visit the chapel suspended between the split rocks. In our typical 'good' luck fashion, it was closed for repairs! Fortunately, we could see it as we motored away from the anchorage. We visited the other church, saw Turks Grotto in the other split and wandered up the cliffs then came back to the boat. We set off for the island of Ischia in the Gulf of Naples and had a mix of weather- sun, light to no wind, calm sea, and rain. Coats on, off, on, off but it was warmer than it has been. Sadly, we passed garbage floating. 😡🤯😖 We anchored off the beach at Porto d' Ischia after checking forecasted wind and waves. We watched ferries arriving and departing simultaneously and continuously! It's as busy as Nice airport! It rained off and on as we settled in for the night.Baca selengkapnya

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  • PelancongSpring Fling into the Mediterr
    1
    Hari 49

    Porto d'Ischia to Baia and Porto Miseno

    22 Mei 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We woke up to a lovely morning and rowed ashore before 0800 as our stove gas had expired last night and I needed my cappuccino! Unlike other places, stores didn't open until 0900-they must be on island time! We then motored to Baia (mainland) where we stopped for diesel. A power boat about 55ft. came in behind us to fill-up. It took over an hour, 2200 litres and his bill was €6000! 🤯 We motored down the bay to check out an anchorage and decided it was too industrial so turned around. The wind had come up and Bob decided he didn't like the way the dinghy engine was bouncing so, while we we were motoring, he climbed into the dinghy, removed the engine and climbed back onto our boat! Maybe he should try out for Cirque de Soleil! We ended up at Porto Miseno, a little harbour with beautiful rock formations and lovely hotels on top of cliffs above us. We were entertained with a live band playing good music and we had front row seats for fireworks set off about 2 boat lengths away! A beautiful night under a crescent moon, with familiar melodies and gorgeous fireworks. Perfect.Baca selengkapnya

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  • PelancongSpring Fling into the Mediterr
    Hari 50

    Napoli

    23 Mei 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    After coffee ☕ in the early morning sun in the cockpit, we motored to Naples where we anchored the boat and Bob rowed us behind the breakwater. We discovered there was a beach and 2 fishing boats selling their catch. We have to say the fish were pretty small and not as varied compared to the fish markets on the Atlantic coast. We tied up our dinghy hoping it and our sailboat would still be there later! 😬 We wandered along the seawall and through the old part of Naples where they were setting up for some music concert. The streets were festooned with streamers celebrating a sports win along with drying laundry hung out of the windows. We stopped for pizza lunch along the sea front but we were not pleased when told you have to go online to view the menu and later found a €5 sitting charge on the bill!😡 We wandered back and discovered both boats were still there! 😀 Bob started rowing us out with comments from a fellow at the dock that I should be rowing for the Captain. HA! Bob got his workout 🚣‍♂️as he was battling the wind then we sailed back to Porto Miseno. Bob rowed again against the current, and we walked to the grocery store. Discovered a lake! Perfect for dinghy sailing. I rowed us back, made dinner and listened to the music and watched fireworks again.Baca selengkapnya

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  • PelancongSpring Fling into the Mediterr
    1
    Hari 51

    🚤🛳⛴🛥🚢😡😬

    24 Mei 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We left Porto Miseno in the smog and haze keeping watch for the many ferries coming and going from various islands and Naples. We could hardly see across the Bay. As we got closer to Capri and the Amalfi coast the sea traffic increased considerably with tour boats, private power boats, fishing boats, ferries, a cruise ship and a freighter. We had to take evasive action numerous times to avoid near collisions. The power boats come so fast towards / behind you and they don't change course until the last moment or until we've slowed and turned and then we're subjected to their heavy waves and engine wash. So much for courtesy and who has the right of way!🤯 If anyone has seen the movie 'Bowfinger', we felt like Eddie Murphy's character crossing the freeway!😲🥺😤🤯
    The Amalfi coast is beautiful with spectacular hotels on high cliffs with winding paths to the sea. I wouldn't want to get to the bottom and realize I'd forgotten my sunscreen! Bob says at those 5🌟hotels, it would be delivered on a silver platter. Very different from our 1/2 🌟 ship! 🤣
    We cruised into Amalfi but carried on to Salerno as there wasn't a suitable anchorage. We anchored behind the cruise ship port off the beach and main street with palm trees, lovely buildings and a castle on the mountain above. Once the tour boats stopped for the night, it was calm. Once again, we were treated to fireworks🎆!    Baca selengkapnya

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  • PelancongSpring Fling into the Mediterr
    Hari 52

    Pompei and Salerno

    25 Mei 2023, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    On Thursday we took a side trip by train from Salerno to Pompei. The train, by comparison to French trains, was clean, modern, had English notices and announcements, was inexpensive and on time. What is surprising is that the Italians we've met do not speak much English whereas the French do.
    Pompei was fantastic! A bit of a lineup and a wait to get in but quite efficient and once in, you could wander wherever and avoid the crowds/tour groups. It's a marvel that so much has been uncovered and is intact. Even blown glass perfume vials and carved hair pins with such intricate details! Piecing together frescoes is the ultimate jigsaw puzzle. Amazing.
    Yesterday we wandered around Salerno. We visit a lot of churches for the architecture and to see the opulence. Some are so full of glitz and some are in such inaccessible places it makes you wonder how, why??? They are a contradiction of the beauty and the macabre.
    After paying cigarettes ☠ and beer🍺 to the young fellow at the fuel dock to look after our dinghy, we motored back to the sailboat. We were visited by a Swiss couple who invited us onto their catamaran for drinks which turned into dinner. It was a lovely night and they gave us lots of info and advice on harbours and places. They know another sailing couple from Bella Coola! It's always a pleasure meeting new people and hearing their stories.
    Salerno is our last southern spot before we head north again and leave the boat at an as yet to be confirmed marina.    Baca selengkapnya

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