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Fiona Boult

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    • Fiona BoultПутешественникCamino de nuevo
      1

      O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela

      27 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      The final day.
      Always a very emotional moment for me despite having walked twice before.
      We left On Pedrouzo in the dark and it seemed to stay no more than twilight until nearly 9am. Many people walking this final stretch quietly but we talked for a while with David and Tyler - father and son from Toronto. Tyler is studying medicine - they have walked from Sarria and have had a mixed experience. As runners they were expecting to find it pretty easy but not so.
      David messaged us when he set off with 10k to go and we met him on the outskirts of Santiago where we also met up with a girl we had last seen in Orisson - allowing us to catch up with news of others we had lost along the way and with whom she had stayed in contact.
      We walked the last few kilometres with David which was lovely. Just before the arch that leads into the square we met up with Laura who arrived yesterday and Chris the philosopher.
      By the time we reached the cathedral the weather had become beautiful - warm and sunny. It was wonderful to sit in the square arching the other pilgrims coming in and just drinking in the atmosphere - success tinged with sadness that the camino is over for me. A good moment was seeing Father Luke come in with his group. We had a hug and he blessed me which felt very special.
      Then wandered down to the pilgrim office to get my certificates. I’m planning to go to the cathedral tomorrow as I missed the 12 noon mass.
      A cold beer, fizzy water, a cheese sandwich and padrón peppers really hit the spot when we finally found somewhere to sit down and eat.
      The rest of the day was filled with wandering through the city - I was hoping to find something to wear but no luck so far so still in my hobo clothes at the moment.
      Then dinner with Linda, Bernie, David and Terri which was a huge reunion after several weeks as we last saw Linda and Bernie in Burgos. We’ve been communicating regularly but they’ve been increasingly far ahead and arrived in Santiago on Monday. They fly back to Canada tomorrow so we won’t see them again.
      We ate a delicious (vegan) dinner at the Green House which was a perfect location to spend a few hours catching up. I feel sad that I may never see them again but hopeful that I will if I can arrange a trip to Canada! Feel this should be a priority as I have many friends there now. Terri had walked the Invierno route so it was fascinating to talk to her about that very quiet way and to see some of her pictures.
      From the sublime to the not so, the hotel is a bit grim - very hot and quite cramped but it’s (only?) advantage is that it’s very central. Would stay further out next time to get a bit more space and air (window only onto a tiny internal space with a roof so no air at all).      Читать далее

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    • Fiona BoultПутешественникCamino de nuevo
      1

      Boente to O Pedrouzo

      26 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Another super early start but very warm from the off after a very warm night. Very noisy too at Pension Boente with trucks roaring past - I wouldn’t stay here again.
      Very dark for quite a while after departure at 6 and had to use my phone torch for the first time.
      Managed to find a toast and coffee stop in Arzua after about 7.5k (most places were albergues and only doing breakfasts for their residents).
      The. Another short stop for second coffee another 2.5k on in Pregontoño. Should have hung on for the next little cafe which looked much nicer - ours was blaring very loud Spanish pop music but had a good (if eclectic) bathroom!
      Then a long stretch walking with Tammy from the Northern Territories in Australia who had been down with the camino stomach bug (as are our friends Ryan and Kyle from the US - currently in hospital getting metaclopromide jabs!). Seems to be a bit of a thing this year.
      On and on (just over 28k today). I don’t love this bit sadly. It’s so busy and the scenery is not that wonderful. I wouldnt do this bit again but would aim to take the Invierno route from Ponferrada (after, of course, going to O Cebreiro and then doubling back on the bus to start again).
      Anyway I had a wonderful hour or so in the end talking to an American catholic priest, Father Luke, who was walking in full priestly travel gear including biretta. He was completely fascinating to me. He is from a catholic order called the Institute of Christ the King. He is leading a small group of about 20
      Pilgrims from the US to various places around Spain including Avila and Madrid and the Covadonga in Asturias. They are walking the camino from Sarria. They have mass (in Latin) every day. He was a very interesting guy - trained for seven years in Florence and in France where the order started.
      Anyway that conversation made my day and after that there was not much more to go until we reached our destination of O Pedrouzo. Stopped just before the town (as it’s not a very interesting place and quite noisy) in a place with a garden for another cold drink and a cheese and tomato sandwich.
      Our pension in O Pedrouzo is the same one as last year (Caroline will remember it well). It’s very hot - we are in the roof this time - with no air conditioning. However there is a free washing machine and we now have our laundry strung across the room which smells very musty as can’t open the window yet because of the heat.
      That apart, all good. We managed to get a swim in a hostel with a pool and are now sitting with a glass of cold white wine at a cafe on the main drag. Pilgrims still limping in occasionally.
      For once (I have been to this place three times) the interesting little restaurant Taste the Way is open so hoping for a good meal.
      It was a good and vegan meal. Galician soup and pasta with vegetables. But followed by the second and very much non- vegan ice cream. Fab ice cream shop which has banana flavour! I’ve been looking for this for the last month. Delicious.      Читать далее

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    • Fiona BoultПутешественникCamino de nuevo

      Eirexe to Boente

      25 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ 🌫 14 °C

      After a pretty good nights sleep (I was totally exhausted) we were up again at 5.30 but as the albergue had a kitchen we were able to make proper coffee so started off with a bit more of a spring in my step. I don’t need food first thing but coffee is a great help.
      Again we were walking in the dark and the mist. It wasn’t cold but was very humid and the trees were dripping so much it sometimes felt like rain.
      The first 7k to Palas de Reí went by fairly quickly. Not a lot to remark on and not too taxing.
      Stopped in Palas de Reí for coffee and toast but kept it fairly short in an attempt to beat the crowds that were already forming at various points in the town. We passed one huge gym where hundreds of young people had clearly been spending the night on mats. Did not envy them or their carers!
      On from Palas de Reí along narrow paths in gently (mostly) undulating countryside. At one point soon after Palas de Reí we passed an extraordinary group of people pushing wheelchairs. At first all I could hear was very loud music - which is not my thing - but when I saw what they were doing I was awestruck and moved to tears. They were pushing big kids with disabilities up steep rocky paths - singing and dancing as they went. It was amazing (see videos).
      On and on we went, a long one today, until we got to Furelos where I was hoping to have lunch at the lovely little veggie restaurant near the church that I went to last year. Unfortunately it was closed. Very disappointed I moved on to the close but fairly unlovely town of Melide where we did find tea and a bit of food as well as a supermarket. Bought cherries as have been having withdrawal symptoms. Not as good as the ones from Cacabelos but probably better than most you can get in the UK.
      Then on again through the woods towards Boente, passing the little organic food stall I went to last year (she makes her own Santiago cake and coffee and raspberry liqueurs). Delicious again.
      The albergue is okay - pool empty sadly and right by a busy road. Not quite as good as other recent places but fine.      Читать далее

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    • Fiona BoultПутешественникCamino de nuevo

      Pena to Eirexe

      24 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ 🌫 14 °C

      We were up with the bats this morning in an attempt to beat the crowds. The trouble is that the crowds stayed in the main stop of Portomarin which is 7k ahead, meaning that we need to walk that and head on out of the town before they get going.
      So we left at 6, having to climb over the wall of the hostal as the gates were all locked. Even at that hour there were two girls (with head torches as it was pitch dark) taking pictures at the 100k marker outside the albergue.
      I’m pleased to say that you can achieve Peace on the Camino after Sarria if you walk in
      the dark! I saw a fantastic black and yellow salamander just as it got light - quite amazing!
      So in the misty darkness we walked to Portomarin where we stopped for coffee and toast, a bank and a supermarket.
      Unfortunately the camino doesn’t actually go through Portomarin but sort of skirts its edge so it meant added distance and time. This resulted in us being back with the crowds after breakfast.
      Luckily there were some alternative routes at various points which the crowds didn’t take - which helped a little with the space.
      I met up with Laura in Portomarin and walked with her until OHospital where we stopped for about an hour and a half. She has bad leg problems but still manages to walk pretty fast but had decidied she couldn’t actually walk the 40k (!) to her planned stop so got a taxi from O Hospital. We stopped for ages because it was going to be way too early for her to get into her accommodation if she had got the taxi straight away.
      She is a lovely person and I hope we’ll stay in contact as she’s already done quite a lot of walking in the uk and wants to do more. Maybe Hadrians wall?
      After she left I continued on, now in heat of about 30c to our stop of Casa da Coto in Eirixe. Mad crowds again with queueing on narrow sections and loud music accompanying from time to time (see brief video).
      The Albergue is great with a lovely garden and good pool. Swimming feels good after so much walking.
      Delicious dinner at Casa Mariluz - goats cheese salad (and some chips to top up the carbs!). Very very tired now - even felt a bit faint which is unusual for me so going to bed at 7.30!! I really have regressed into small child!      Читать далее

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    • Fiona BoultПутешественникCamino de nuevo

      Pintin to Pena

      23 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      We started this morning around 7 - not quite a sea of clouds below us but wisps of cloud lying in the valleys - very beautiful. A whole valley of turtle doves cooing. And then fields of horses just before Sarria
      I think spiders must spin their webs very fast as I seemed to be walking through their threads but know that Ryan and Kyle must have walked the same path only about half an hour earlier. However they had not reformed when Cress walked through a few minutes later.
      Unbeknownst to me these were the last moments of peace - possibly for the rest of the Camino.
      Sarria appeared to be quite quiet initially. It’s a town full of albergues but there were not many people on the streets. We eventually stopped for coffee and toast (no more tortillas for me!) and were astonished by the hoardes of people who began to stroll down the streets. Some appeared to be walking for charities - others were just groups starting their camino. But there were so many.
      When I came through Sarria last year, it was from Samos, which is a longer route so I didn’t reach Sarria until around 11 - and then we spent quite a bit of time at a delicious vegetarian restaurant so weren’t walking on til midday at the earliest. Today we were leaving Sarria around 9 and it was a Sunday - the worst possible combination for crowds I think.
      So overall not my best day on the camino. I spent most of the walk, when I wasn’t queueing to go through a narrow section of avoiding people walking four abreast with a boom box, working out how I could both go to O Cebreiro and do the Invierno route another time. I think it would be possible to walk to O Cebreiro as normal and then get the bus back to Ponferrada and start the Invierno the next day (apparently exquisite and quiet).
      When we reached our albergue, casa do Rego, which seems lovely with a great garden, we met another pilgrim who has walked from St Jean Pied de Port. It has been his worst day on the camino because of the loss of peace compared to our experience so far. Pleased it’s not just me being pathetic about this!
      They don’t do lunch here, which is a shame, so we walked back along the path to Mirallos where we shared a huge cheese and tomato bocadillo and chips, beer and ice cream - a good pilgrim lunch!
      Now back and sitting in the garden having showered and done the washing which is drying satisfyingly fast.
      Dinner was good / lentil soup, omelette for me and apple cake. As well as Bernie (from Austria) and Bas from the Netherlands we met a lovely basque French girl called Pauline. A great conversation about the camino, special places, the camino providing. I don’t think we’ll see her again as she walks very long distances but I learnt a lot from her - another camino gift.      Читать далее

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    • Fiona BoultПутешественникCamino de nuevo

      Fonfria to Pintin

      22 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      I was lucky enough to sleep very well after our long day so was ready to get up before the alarm went off at 6.30.
      The weather couldn’t be more different to today. Yesterday clear blue skies, cool air but very warm sun. Today, mist and cloud to the extent that I had to wear my poncho until we got to Triacastela, when the sun began to emerge and I began to warm up.
      Despite the cloud it was a beautiful walk down to Triacastela- felt rather dream like in the mist. I stopped for coffee in a lovely albergue in Filoval where the speciality was homemade cheesecake. I am now really regretting that I didn’t have this - I don’t usually eat cake type things so early - and instead had a tortilla, very large and just too much so l I’m finally tortillad out! (Happened much sooner last year!).
      On down into Triacastela, past the extraordinary 800 year old chestnut tree (still alive and doing well with an 8m circumference trunk). I am imagining all the things that tree has seen and am in awe.
      Triacastela is a funny town in my experience. Last year struggled to find somewhere open for coffee. This year had a very grumpy supermarket experience - first time I’ve really experienced that sort of hostility to pilgrims on the camino.
      So I was pleased to leave fairly quickly and move on towards our destination of Pintin. A new place for me as last year we did the Samos route to Sarria. The ‘main route’ which we are doing this year is shorter but much steeper than the Samos route so it was quite a hard hike out of Triacastela and then another long down after reaching the top at San Xil de Carballo.
      The path was mainly through woods with beautiful views across the countryside from time to time. There was a fab donativo food place about half way between Triacastela and Pintin - part of a yoga/meditation place - which made up for the rubbish supermarket experience (see picture).
      Then on to Pintin (strange name) where the albergue seems fine and thank goodness does food (was worried there wouldn’t be anything to eat til supper time). So had a cheese sandwich and chips - my staple on the camino. Ryan and Kyle are here too so sat with them while eating.
      Have now showered and done loads of washing, hoping that it will dry in the laundry room or on the rather alarming out the window washing line (not sure what will happen if my stuff drops off as it’s a precipitous drop and not sure how I’d access it). It was all so dirty the water in the basin was brown as soon as I put each thing in.
      Not sure I’ll need supper after my big lunch but will probably need something.
      Did eat supper - and not a small one - first pizza of the camino with roasted vegetables. Also a glass of Bierzo white wine.      Читать далее

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    • Fiona BoultПутешественникCamino de nuevo

      Trabadelo to Fonfria

      21 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

      Oh my goodness this was a long one with two big climbs. The first, up to O Cebreiro, was long but on the whole not too steep. The second, after lunch, which always feels worse anyway, was very very steep but not too long with a cafe at the top. An Italian woman who came up just after us looked thoroughly shocked and the only thing she could say was “madre mía!”
      We started early. I woke up just after 5 and gathered my stuff up and left the dorm so as not to wake our fellow residents. We were ready to leave at 6 and walked out into the dark. Had to be quite careful about checking the way at first but it soon became lighter although stayed very cold for a couple of hours as we were in a deep valley that the sun couldn’t reach until quite a while after sunrise.
      Found first coffee and a good croissant in a bakery around 7 and then had a second coffee in Las Herrerías.
      Then it was onwards and upwards through the most exquisite scenery in the most perfect weather conditions to O Cebreiro.
      O Cebreiro is undoubtedly my special place on the Camino. I went straight into the tiny church and immediately all the emotions I felt last year came flooding back. Last year we stayed in O Cebreiro and went to the pilgrim mass conducted by a very special Franciscan priest. This year we started by talk g to the lady who was stamping the pilgrim passports. She then gave us a tour of the church explaining all the miracles that had happened there and I explained that this place was very special for me. She asked if I would like a blessing from the priest and obviously o said yes. I found I had tears pouring down my face and they were so kind. We both had a special blessing and both gave me a big hug which was much appreciated. I really don’t know what it is about that church. It’s tiny and very simple and unassuming but for me it’s one of the most important places. It remains hugely important to me.
      After the church we ate and had a drink (no alcohol obviously because still had a long way to go) but it was a lovely place with lovely weather and it was very hard to move on.
      Eventually we did, probably later than we should have done. Unfortunately it’s not all downhill from O Cebreiro. The path undulates for a while and then goes up to two more peaks, the second, Alto de Poio even higher than O Cebreiro. This fell very hard so late in the day and in the end we didn’t arrive until around 4.45.
      But the hostal is good and the wine even better so all good. We have a communal dinner tonight, three courses with wine, bread and coffee for €14. Vegetarian no problem.
      Lots of characters on the path today including Bernie from Austria again. He seems powered by beer and weed - he’d definitely had at least four large beers before reaching O Cebreiro and seemed to be stopping at every bar after that for another one. He’s definitely quite a character.
      Great dinner in the Palozzo with Simon (uk) Ryan and Kyle (us - New Jersey) and Ivan (Croatia ) (see picture) and lots of Italians. The glass of ribeiro I finally achieved at about 5.30 was so so good. After 32k I was ready for a drink!      Читать далее

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    • Fiona BoultПутешественникCamino de nuevo

      Cacabelos to Trabadelo (via Pradela)

      20 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      Left lovely Cacabelos at 7 after a fairly bad nights sleep. Fell asleep quite quickly listening to the Newsagents podcast ( vaguely trying to keep up with the election from here) but then awake on and off. Someone left the albergue at about 5 which definitely woke me up and didn’t sleep much after that.
      It’s was a beautiful morning of sun and clouds and felt as if it might be quite warm. Undulating path but mainly along an alarmingly busy road to Villafranca del Bierzo. I really hate walking along roads - particularly when it’s right on the road with no separation at all from the traffic! This was bad and made me more determined to take the alternative route from Villafranca to Trabadelo rather than continuing along the road.
      Finally got to Villafranca just before 9 but then couldn’t find anywhere open for breakfast. Think I must have take a a slightly odd route into the town as didn’t find anyone else which is unusual. Finally rang cress to find out where she was and we met in the Plaza Mayor at the Cafe Sevilla where they served huge portions of tortilla and cake and churros (I didn’t have all these but did eat a lot!).
      Then took the decision to go it alone up the high alternative route. I love walking and walking alone is fine but this is very remote and felt quite scary. It’s super steep to start with and I had to keep stopping. Worried about whether anyone would find me if anything happened!! But it gradually evens out a bit and although still mainly up for the whole 8k to Pradela it does become an easier walk. I trod the steep and rugged pathway rejoicingly in the end!!
      Arrived in Pradela at about 11.30 and have now had coffee, sparkling water and a ’delicious goats cheese salad while enjoying the company of the cats and listening to a cuckoo.
      It feels very high up here, very lonely and I feel quite brave!!
      It began to rain a little while I was having lunch so ordered a cup of té rojo and a piece of chestnut cake and waited for it to stop. Two little swallows were sitting on the telegraph wire just across from the albergue terrace where I was sitting - it looked as if they were also waiting for it to stop.
      Finally set off down the hill to Trabadelo in rain gear but didn’t need it for long as the last bit of drizzle stopped. Just before reaching Trabadelo there were some cherry trees with ripe fruit and low enough branches for me to reach them. Finally got my fix of cherries straight from the tree which I seem to have had a lot more of last year. Sure they have restorative properties!
      Now at Casa Susi. Checked in by Firmin, susi’s partner I think. It’s a lovely dorm with 10 proper beds and a sitting area at the end. The garden is full of vegetables (puts my allotment to shame) but also a good drying line with lots of wind and an area with a swing and a hammock. The river is at the end of the garden but despite looking like it was going fro be warm, it hasn’t really been after all, so a bit too cold to test the river out today.
      Anticipating tomorrow as a long long day with a big up in the middle so planning to set off early.
      Since writing have been out for a drink at another lovely albergue (de la puente) and then had a delicious, welcoming and very special dinner at Casa Susi- meeting Susi and all the other pilgrims round the dinner table. A very special place - maybe I’ll write a bit more about this tomorrow but it’s late now and I have to get up early.      Читать далее

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    • Fiona BoultПутешественникCamino de nuevo
      1

      Molinaseca to Cacabelos

      19 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Left Molinaseca at the civilised hour of 7.10 this morning. The streets were wet as it had rained overnight but the sky was quite clear tho with clouds over the hills.
      It’s a long road walk into Ponferrada - quite pretty but still a roadside pavement. The highlight was a rainbow just before Ponferrada.
      The camino doesn’t seem to take you through the scenic route but Ponferrada is a lovely small city with a beautiful historic centre - which I eventually found. Had breakfast and lots of coffee at a bar in Plaza Virgen de Encima where Caroline and I drank lots of wine last year (at the opposite end of the day). Today”s tune as I walked out of Ponferrada (also all along roads) was an annoying pop tune which I think I heard coming out of a bar in the town. Had to banish it a bit later as it was driving me mad.
      Met lots of good people along the way today and finally a few with a similar sort of planned arrival date which means we may see them again. Steve and Vicky from Oklahoma, Jon and Diane from somewhere in the states who are on their third camino and a number of others including a trio of ladies from South Africa led by Ilsa.
      Ponferrada sits in a bowl surrounded by hills so after breakfast and the supermarket it was a bit uphill and then along until Camponaraya. This seemed a slightly soulless town but soon after we were out into the vineyards of the Bierzo wine region - very lovely with lots of birdsong even at midday.
      Arrived in Cacabelos around 1.30. Our albergue, La Gallega, seems good apart from prohibition about doing washing in room (we have ignored and hung outside as we have a small balcony). Went swimming in the very cold but refreshing river which was wonderful. Then back for showers and wine. Sat talking to Steve and Vicky and Bernie from Austria turned up again. Eating a bit later tonight and I’m (surprise surprise) very tired. Possibly a big walk uphill tomorrow if I choose to do that rather than walk along the road.      Читать далее

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    • Fiona BoultПутешественникCamino de nuevo
      1

      Foncebadón to Molinaseca

      18 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ 🌫 9 °C

      Left the hostal at about 6.45 with weather app warning of rain in 13 minutes. However , as we stepped out of the hostal it was clear the weather app was wrong. It was already raining hard and very wet underfoot. Hooded hunched figures were wandering around looking sad. One elderly French lady said she had no rain gear. With the temperature around 6c this was worrying. The overall feeling was positively mediaeval. Even with advanced rain gear I felt closer to the pilgrims of former times than I ever have done before.
      Anyway set off trudging up the path towards Cruz de Ferro. Not as steep as I remembered and in fact as I couldn’t see anything due to the mist and rain nothing much was as I remembered.
      Cruz de Ferro is an iconic moment on the camino. You are meant to see the sun rise there and leave behind a stone or something from home (physical or spiritual). Both times now I’ve been able to see nothing owing to cloud/ rain. Today I could barely see the cross. Ironically the day before was fantastic according to friends. I’ll just have to do a third Frances one day.
      Pushed off from the top pretty rapidly as weather was vile. Very few people there, just a few baffled looking Koreans in ponchos and us.
      Anyway after that things began to look up a bit as we soon came to Manjarin where a woman has a fabulous set up with a food truck and shelter with an open fire (see pictures!!). Absolute godsend today as yet again my hands were frozen. Had home made walnut cake and coffee and felt much more cheerful after sitting by the fire for a few minutes.
      Hymn of the day was Eternal Father Strong to Save - which kept me going for most of the time while it was raining relentlessly and there were no views and no birds singing.
      Then on down to the next town of O acebo for more coffee and. Vegan empanada to take away. Cafe Rosa, run by a Swiss man and Dutch woman, was very tolerant of the sodden pilgrims dripping all over their floor - guess they were doing a roaring trade in sustenance today!
      The rain began to abate a bit after this and fairly soon I could see patches of blue sky and the. It was sunny for the rest of the walk.
      Once it stopped raining it was a beautiful walk. I remember from last year how stunning this valley is and at last I could see it.
      Shedding the rain gear was a joy (tho I am pleased with how well it worked - I didn’t actually get wet) and I eventually arrived in Molinaseca around 12 in warm sunshine.
      It was too early to check into the hostal so I ate my empanada and then had a beer, bought more soap at the farmacia and had a cup of tea. All very good and probably even better after the hard start.
      Have now washed me and clothes and waiting to eat.
      Before eating I went up to look at the church. Had heard camino rumours about an American gentlemen called Tim who came back to Molinaseca after walking the camino. He opens the church at 5 every day and is there to talk to pilgrims.
      The church was open - very Romanesque in design with a rather beautiful baroque alterpiece. Tim was there and we had a long chat after it started to rain. He was stressing how easy it is to come to live in Spain and how cheap the cost of living is in the villages and small towns. He has been made very welcome here in Molinaseca despite speaking no Spanish. He was an interesting man who has lived all over the world but says he has found his first ‘home’ here.
      Dinner was another salad but sadly not as good as the one last night -but still okay.
      Very tired again so another early night hopefully.      Читать далее

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