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Fiona Boult
Fiona Boult

Fiona Boult

matkusti 4 maahan. Lue lisää
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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoMatkaaja

    Santiago to Negreira - on my way to the

    7. heinäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    We left Santiago in dense mist - even the Cathedral square was swathed in cloud.
    The Camino out of Santiago was as well sign posted as our route into the city. This was not really what I had expected but we soon settled into a confident reliance on the same yellow arrows and accurate Galician granite marker posts - now counting down to Finisterre rather than to Santiago.
    We walked in mist for about the first 10km and when we stopped for a coffee it almost seemed to be about to start to rain. The Italian girl we had been walking with (Federica- originally from Bari - studying near Bologna) put her waterproof cover on her back pack. She had been in Santiago after walking the Camino Portuguese from Porto. She is at a transitional moment in her life, trying to decide whether to embark on a PhD or to try to find a job. She has travelled widely and been travelling for a while following finishing her degree earlier this year.
    Anyway in the end instead of raining it cleared up beautifully and the rest of the day was perfect - sunny but with cool air and a breeze.
    We had brought bread and Tetilla (Galician cheese) with us and shared this with Federica in a beautiful village O Ponte Maceira. We sat by a clear fast flowing river and after eating I swam before we continued on to Negreira.
    It really was a sublimely beautiful day and the walk on to Negreira was easy and enjoyable.
    After reaching our Albergue the weather clouded over and now it’s raining quite heavily. I think we are all hoping that it will be dry by the morning.
    Negreira is quite a substantial town but bizarrely almost completely closed up this Friday afternoon. They are having a big festival over the weekend (Christmas like lights suspended over the streets, fairground rides and stalls etc) but for some reason this seems to involve all the shops closing, and many of the bars and restaurants too. There were a lot of quite sad looking pilgrims wandering around - we had been warned that this was the last place to stick up on food etc before the coast and there are, apparently, large stretches of the Camino coming up where there are no devices of any kind. So it’s a bit of an issue not being able to get anything in Negreira. We finally found, thanks to Hapoy Cow, a place that did a couple of vegetarian options for dinner so now I’m no longer hungry. I was actually very hungry and increasingly hangrily despondent. But all resolved now thank goodness.
    As we’re planning to leave fairly early tomorrow we’re not having breakfast and so the Albergue has very generously given us lots of stuff to take with us - so we will be okay if we can carry it and fit it into the rucksacks.    Lue lisää

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoMatkaaja

    In Santiago

    6. heinäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    It’s a very strange feeling, ending the Camino. It’s a feeling of achievement but also sadness to have left the world of the Pelegrína and to be back in the ‘normal’ world where there are choices and decisions to be made.
    I’m no longer following the yellow arrow (the sign we followed from the first day in St Jean Pied de Port) but am wandering around the mediaeval streets of Santiago mainly guided by my phone!
    Today Richard arrived which was wonderful, and Caroline left, which was very sad. We (C and I) both felt a bit strange all day - and richard is quite tired as his taxi came at 2.30am to pick him up for the airport! So we had breakfast together then booked our rooftop tour of the cathedral. This completely freaked me out. The tour, all in Spanish, actually takes you up on the sloping roof of the cathedral where it definitely felt to me like I might fall off. It’s reasonably steeply inclined and I cannot imagine what it would be like if it was wet. As it was I still felt much safer sitting down and my feet didn’t stop tingling (and sweating) until the end of the tour. However, it really was very interesting. I think I could understand about 50% of what the guide was saying, and that was fascinating.
    It was nevertheless a relief to come down. I didn’t think I was unduly afraid of heights but I definitely felt quite uncomfortable.
    Then lunch at our favourite vegetarian restaurant and C had to leave to catch her plane. R needed to sleep so I wandered round the city for a while - found a hat shop for R and a few other interesting places.
    It’s a strange thing not walking any more. It’s now Thursday evening and we’ve had a day wandering around Santiago. We went to the mass at 12 and finally saw the Botafumeiro swing - which was awesome in the truest sense of the word. I was so pleased that I’d seen it, despite it being a bit of a racket: I.e if you pay -€400 they’ll do it but not otherwise apart from holy days, and possibly, rumour has it, Fridays!
    Anyway it meant a lot to me to see it finally and the smell it created was amazing.
    After finally managing to send our suitcase to the Costa da Morte Parador by Correos we had some drinks and dinner at the Greenhouse again.
    I’m going to post this now - although currently on my way to Finisterre with Richard.    Lue lisää

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoMatkaaja

    O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela- Em

    3. heinäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Oh goodness I don’t really know where to start with this day. I’m writing this, finally, on the afternoon of Tuesday 4th July sitting on our quiet hotel room.
    The final walk into Santiago was uneventful - cool and gentle. We had 19. Km to walk and the first 15 of those were still along attractive country paths, which wasn’t really what I had expected. Even the final approach to the city was less busy and confusing than I had thought it would be.
    The sun had appeared by the end and we almost missed our first, quite distant view of the cathedral.
    I wasn’t sure how I was going to feel about arriving in Santiago having ‘arrived’ before when I walked the week of the Portuguese route in October last year. I was concerned that I might not feel very much at all, despite the very long walk to get there.
    That was not the case. As we walked through the outskirts of the city and had closer views of the cathedral spires I had to walk a bit ahead as I found myself starting to weep. Luckily I was wearing sunglasses which disguised the tears a bit - I was hoping that I just looked hot and sweaty! I really don’t understand my emotions about being here and as I’m writing this, over 24 hours later, I’m welling up again.
    Eventually we reached the cathedral square and I was, basically, in floods of tears. As Liv commented, in the first pictures of me, I look really sad. I absolutely want but was feeling very emotional and couldn’t stop crying. It felt amazing to be there after such a long walk and after wanting to do the full Camino (obviously there are all types of Camino but his is the one I had set my heart on) for so many years.
    And then of course there was the illness. At some points it really felt as if I’d never be able to do it - for a long time I thought I’d never even be able to walk in Home Park again with the dogs as you can’t park there and I couldn’t walk as far as the end of the road. Let alone 800 km!
    Anyway all this was a bit overwhelming, especially on top of a very bad night’s sleep - the worst on the whole Camino - owing to a couple of very fierce mosquitos.
    Eventually, after lying down in the square, still with my pack on, I felt a bit better and we went off to apply for our Compostelas (the certificates you receive for walking the Camino). The pilgrims office was beautifully quiet I had been dreading this part as last October it was pandemonium, took ages and was very draining. However, I’m ashamed to say that when the very kind man I was allotted to was going through the formalities with me, I started to cry again and amazingly he put everything down and gave me a big hug!! This is definitely not usual practice as it’s quite a formal process. I felt very grateful for his kindness.
    Finally we went off to find our hotel and I was able to take my rucksack off. The hotel is cool, calm and very very welcome.
    Our packages, in my case sent on from Leon, were all waiting for us - I’m not sure really why I brought some of the stuff and certainly don’t really want it now but guess I will bring some of it home. We have a friend who sent a large suitcase to Santiago from St Jean Pied de Port and apparently the hotel are happy to keep it for her indefinitely. She really doesn’t want to pick it up so is just leaving it there for the moment. My feelings are similar - but luckily I don’t have as much.
    After going to the mass at the cathedral (sadly no blessings there for non- catholics) and, again, not seeing the Botafumeiro swing, we went for dinner at an amazing vegan restaurant, the Greenhouse, with Anna, Bella and Bellas Italian journalist friend. Delicious food - very comforting after several weeks where it’s been pretty tricky to be vegetarian at all.
    Today (4th) we found another great cafe for breakfast (for me toast with ricotta cheese, figs, walnuts and honey) and then a great place for lunch which we are planning to go back to tonight.
    At 10.30 we went to the English mass at the chápel in the Pilgrims Office. We met Joan, a nun from Ireland (who works with refugees and asylum seekers) who is volunteering there at the moment. She was another of the very luminous people we have met occasionally along the way, and very welcoming. The priest from the Philippines was also wonderful, also a shiny person, and very very kind to me. In this case, as a non Catholic I was made extremely welcome and given a lengthy and meaningful blessing that I will always remember. In fact I will always remember the whole service and the chat afterwards - also special.
    All so memorable and I feel very blessed.    Lue lisää

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoMatkaaja
    1

    Ribadiso to O Pedrouzo

    2. heinäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Left early (6.45) but not quite as early as a 6am alarm would aspire to as I was moving slowly, despite a good nights sleep, and my phone was finding it equally difficult to get a reasonable amount of charge. Eventually I got moving and phone reached about 83% and we left.
    A cool morning with a bit of cloud but very pretty.
    First town was Arzua where many people finished yesterday as it’s a Brierley stop. We didn’t stop but continued on, stopping for coffee at a popular spot with a garden a bit further on. As I waited to order coffee they were showing España has talent on the TV - a pair of gymnasts were performing to Tom Odell - slightly surreal. Very disappointing coffee and ‘artisan’, but actually not, toast, so continued on quite quickly and found a better one a bit later.
    It was a gentle day really - up and down but not severely so. However I was quite tired and my legs were feeling a bit weak. Relieved to stop for a drink and a sandwich at El Rincón de Maria in A Brea. The sandwich was very good.
    Then on, and on, to O Pedrouzo. Just before arriving I walked for a while with Robert from Utrecht. He has walked the Primitivo - a very hard two week walk - but very beautiful. He told me he’d done his knee in on the third day going downhill but was still going and still loved it and would be back next year for another Camino. He goes as far as the knee allows - which today was a bit short of O Pedrouzo - but he’s still hoping to go to Finisterre.
    O Pedrouzo was very familiar as Cressida and I spent the day there before starting our week on the Portuguese last October. It’s a town that has everything and definitely only exists in its current form because of the Camino. I had one of my favourite ice creams then headed to our accommodation, which is more like an air b&b than a pension. But perfectly fine.
    We had heard that there was a pool at one of the big albergues so we headed there and had a wonderful swim in the biggest and best pool so far. I really need to create a swimmers guide to the Camino!
    Dinner with Anna, Caroline and Alfred from Denmark. Alfred is an Arsenal fan so knows London quite well. He was very charming and we had some great Mexican food.
    Just caught the last 15 mins of the mass at the church - we’d been told that it started at 7.30 but it was actually at 7 so we missed most of it. Then watched some local, mainly young peoples wind bands playing (with one random cello) and ate ice cream.
    A good day but I am very tired now and am threatened with another very early start tomorrow, which definitely makes sense but will also definitely be difficult.    Lue lisää

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoMatkaaja

    Ponte Campaña to Ribadiso

    1. heinäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    A hotter day today. Leaving the pension was hard as it was so beautiful and I do love the sound of water - which was everywhere.
    The first few kilometres were reasonably easy / some beautiful scenery of course and interesting churches.
    We stopped in Furelos where Happy cow found us a fab vegetarian orientated cafe, run with love by a couple of Camino aficionados - they run the cafe for about 8 months a year and then walk caminos the rest of the time (as well as taking a well earned break as they don’t take any time off during the season).
    The food was great - I had houmous and padrón peppers as well as a very good coffee.
    Then on through Melide - famous for its octopus - towards Ribadiso. Apart from a brief stop for fruit at an organic food truck (I had raspberries and blackberries which had been picked from their next door field) it was what seemed like a long and fairly steeply undulating path.
    We were often walking through eucalyptus forests interspersed with picturesque villages.
    I was tired and found the last 10k or so quite hard but still loved it. I ended up ‘counting’ - my way of dealing with long distances when I’m tired, but towards the end met Susie, an American lady who was going at least 3 k further. I felt very relieved when I crossed a bridge to find the pension on the other side, although I was sad not to get to talk more with her.
    Caroline has been struggling today with her ankle so it’s been a very hard day for her.
    The pension is great, with a lovely swimming pool but the food options (or actually the only food available) is very limited. This is not really a village and barely even a hamlet. There is one restaurant which clearly has the local monopoly and is also trying to host a wedding so the staff are under pressure and are honestly quite rude and unpleasant. The food is okay but requires a bit of cobbling to create a reasonably sustaining veggie option and it’s expensive. Not our best evening but the situation is still lovely.
    Managed to use the washing machine - first time in nearly 6 weeks (have been hand washing in a variety of detergent substitutes) which was unreasonably exciting and as the weather is beautiful it’s all dry too!
    Also paddled in the river (was promised a swim but it’s way too shallow) and swam in the pension pool. So a good afternoon all in all - just need to gear up for tomorrow now!
    Finished my evening up with a tot of raspberry liqueur - bought at the organic food truck. Home made and luckily not too strong but not sure I want to carry it again tomorrow as it’s in a glass bottle and quite heavy as a pilgrim luggage item. Still very delicious and not sure I can really leave it behind - it’s just that, as I think I’ve said before, every gram counts.    Lue lisää

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoMatkaaja
    1

    Gonzar to Ponte Campana - long and lovel

    30. kesäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    It was a cold start this morning - I think I wore my jumper for longer than. I have ever done before - apart from in the Pyrenees.
    We left around 7 and soon came to Castro Mayor - named after the Castro, or basically hill fort, which is on the hill just above it. 50m from the Way but basically not signposted or much visited it appeared.
    The situation is very like a hill fort in the UK and really reminded me of one I visited in Devon, but it has so much more. Many of the walls were still in evidence as well as a large number of buildings in one section. I feel there must be so much more to find there (there was a sign which I think said that there was now a project to invest in more excavation?). It was a fascinating site dating from the first century BC and in a classic ‘hill fort’ location. There is so much to see in this area of Spain and I get the feeling that it is really only the odd pilgrim prepared to veer off the track a bit who gets to see it.
    So after the Castro we continued on through the Galician countryside. A quick breakfast at a very friendly cafe was followed by a walk though a gentle landscape. I wanted to see a Romanesque church with frescos preserved from the 15th century so opted for an additional 4.5k to do this, reassured that it would in fact be open by the sign at the start of the track leading to it.
    However after a solitary 2 k I reached the church - whose beautiful doorway was all I got to see as it was closed. I even rang the number of the caretaker but didn’t get a reply. But the walk was lovely anyway and I didn’t feel upset as was happy to be alone in the space with just a buzzard overhead for company.
    The walk into Palas de Reí seemed very quick once I was back on the main path. I met up with Caroline and Anna there who had been searching for knickers (Anna had left two pairs behind by mistake a couple of days ago!). Nowhere seemed to be open for lunch but finally we were given a suggestion for a local bar (by someone at a bar whose kitchen was closed) where we had a delicious ( really) cheese and salad bocadillo.
    After lunch meandered on towards our destination for tonight - an easy walk of about 5k- stopping for an ice cream and to look at local artisan jewellery- where we both bought earrings. So much for my aspiration to be less materialistic. It works as far as absolutely not buying anything remotely heavy but jewellery doesn’t seem to count!
    The Albergue tonight is amazing. Laid back and beautiful. We are in a very old building that I think must be an old mill. Surrounded by water - swimmable - and so quiet. And I have, of course swum. Cold but perfect.
    Now I’m sitting on the terrace with a glass of local white wine feeling very happy! This is a great place and will definitely be staying here next time.
    Just to add: for the first time my blog uploaded quickly and I haven’t finished it! Now I don’t think it will update as the wifi in this building is very poor.
    Anyway delicious vegetarian dinner with lots of new people. Sylvia from Italy, also vegetarian, was particularly lovely and shared some fairly horrendous Camino experiences with us She’s not only struggled to find vegetarian food, like me sometimes, but people have on occasion been really unpleasant to her - very relieved that hasn’t happened to me! She has been walking for about three weeks with a group including two Australians and an American. Sounds as if they’ve got on very well and are continuing on to Finisterre after reaching Santiago so may see them there.    Lue lisää

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoMatkaaja
    1

    Barbadelo to Gonzar - a day of two parts

    29. kesäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Today was very unusual because Caroline has damaged her ankle and had managed to get an appointment with a physio in Portomarin (the next large town) at 10 and was going there by taxi. So I set off on my own - although it’s already clear that from Sarria onwards you won’t be on your own for long, if at all, as there are many more people walking now. Also I was fortunate to have Anna leaving around the same time and walking to Gonzar too, so we linked up for quite large parts of this walk.
    Today we passed the 100km to Santiago mark - currently at about 80km - which felt an achievement having started at 800 and also quite melancholy as I don’t want this to end. I still love the walking and the whole experience, even tho I’m feeling very tired tonight, and I find myself beginning to plan how I’m going to get back here! Just hoping I can at some point in the not too distant future.
    It was a lovely morning and the first and longest part of the walk, to Portomarin, was beautiful. Typical Galician countryside with small farms and tiny villages.
    About 2 hours in we came to a doorway leading to a courtyard and garden where a very kind couple had laid out a fantastic breakfast spread - all donativo. As well as coffee and tea, there were home made cakes, tortilla, pancakes, cheese and meat, eggs, croquettes, fruit, walnuts - really everything you can imagine. All done with such kindness. It was an amazing stop and I really appreciated it. Anna and I sat there for quite a while before finally continuing on to Portomarin.
    There was a steep downhill section to the bridge over to the town and then steep steps up into the town on the other side.
    The main point of interest was a beautiful and simple Romanesque church. I tried to get another credencial but the information office, where I thought I might have been able to find one, was deserted. We had a drink and then continued on the final section, mainly uphill, into the tiny hamlet of Gonzar.
    This part of the walk wasn’t as attractive, lots of walking by roads and the day had clouded over so everything looked a bit grim. The temperature was good tho for what was, in the end, a pretty long walk.
    The place we are staying tonight seems fine. No cards so I was relieved that I’d managed to get more cash out in Portomarin. It’s been quite hard to use cards for the last few days and most of the places we walk through don’t have banks so it’s important to have plenty of cash!
    Reunited with C, who seemed to have had s successful appointment with the physio, we went to eat a late lunch at the nearby Albergue - salad and padrón peppers / and then came back so do the washing (!) and rest a bit. Have now had supper here and have eaten far too much - but the food was fine and managed vegetarian which is always a relief.
    Not such a long day tomorrow unless I do the 4.5k detour to a special church. I’m thinking about that!    Lue lisää

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoMatkaaja

    Samos to Barbadelo - the beginning of th

    28. kesäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Oh dear - feeling a bit gloomy today as we’ve entered what is really the last stage of our epic journey.
    Sarria - which we passed through today - is the last place you can start walking if you are to qualify for your Compostela. It’s just over 100km from Santiago and is reputedly much busier than the rest of the Camino.
    Starting from Samos, again in the cloud, we saw hardly anyone. We were not expecting anywhere to stop for the first 15km and this would have been true apart from the kindness of a man at a tiny Albergue in the forest. He had a table with (remarkably good) coffee, tea etc and some biscuits and fruit - all donativo. I so appreciated my coffee and was also very happy to meet up with Callie and Anna who had been in Samos at the Albergue run by the monastery. Sean (erstwhile veggie inclined friend who I have met a couple of times) had actually stayed at the monastery in a room and had three meals. That’s what I would like to do next time!
    It was a fairly gentle and cool walk through the forest, often beside a river, to join up with the main path to Sarria from Triacastella.
    Sarria appeared in a bowl in the hills and we were soon walking in what felt like a city, but what is in fact a middle sized town - but with lots of infrastructure for pilgrims. Lots of hostels, banks supermarkets etc.
    I had heard from Bella about a great vegan/veggie cafe and shop so we headed there and had breakfast (in my case) and lunch (in Caroline’s). Although hers looked so good (a Buddha bowl) I had a small lunch too.
    It really was a fab place; my toast and tahini and honey was delicious and I then had a bowl of lentils which was exactly what I needed. C had a Buddha bowl which was perfection - I just didn’t feel I could eat that as was still feeling a bit under the weather.
    Leaving Sarria was hard after what ended up being a long stop and after eating quite a lot.
    I’m definitely better if I eat after I arrive rather than on the way.
    By the time we were heading out of Sarria it was pretty warm and although we were again on paths through trees, it was largely up hill so felt quite hard.
    Our Albergue in Barbadelo is very luxurious compared to the normal ones and has a pool! I had a wonderful and very refreshing swim. The place isn’t busy - I guess most people start in Sarria so wouldn’t stop after 4 km! Hopefully that will give me a head start tomorrow so the way won’t be too crowded. The plan is also to go beyond the ‘regular’ stage tomorrow, and as it is also the middle of the week, maybe it won’t be so crowded.
    Caroline has got a painful ankle so is going to get some physio in Portomarin tomorrow, so she will take a taxi there in the morning rather than walking. She’s really hoping they will sort it out for her so she can continue. I hope so too!    Lue lisää

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoMatkaaja
    1

    Fonfria to Samos - diving into a sea of

    27. kesäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    We left the lovely Albergue at Fonfria at about 7 after buying some of their delicious Santiago cake and fruit and yoghurt.
    It was a beautiful morning,
    Clear blue skies and fabulous views of the mountains. The way was gently down at first. Turning a corner we saw a pool of cloud sitting in the valley- like a soft white sea. I have never seen anything like it, and I have done quite a lot of walking in the mountains. At every turn of the path it looked different; it was as if we were walking along a coast road and could see islands in the sea. I’m very bad at describing this and I’m not sure the photos do it justice, but it was the most incredible sight.
    After a while, as we began the descent to Triacastella, it felt like we were diving into the cloud. The view began to disappear and everything was misty and quite cold. My fingers went numb and by the time we reached Triacastella I was very ready for coffee and my jumper. Fortunately the sun came back pretty quickly and I was soon back to normal.
    We then took the alternative route to Samos which follows the river all the way to the monastery town. The ‘normal’ route goes straight to Sarria - where many people start their Camino because it’s just over 100km from there to Santiago (and you have to walk at least 100km to get your Compostela).
    By now it was getting warm and I stopped for a drink at the only bar on this 10km stretch.
    We got into Samos by about 1 but couldn’t check into our room until 2, so sat and ate our lunch (yogurt and nuts) by the river. It looked very swimmable but I wasn’t feeling 100% so thought it was better not to go in this time.
    The Albergue is good but does not have food, and apparently Tuesday is a rest day in Samos so nearly everywhere else was closed too. The only option for dinner was a bocadillo at the tiny bar - so that had to do. Very sad because there is a restaurant opposite which gets very good reviews - not for us tho. At 5.30 we went on the tour of the monastery. We were taken round by a Benedictine monk who, I think, would have been an interesting guide if I’d been able to speak a bit more Spanish. The limited amount I do have was very useful and I was able to understand some of what he was explaining and even answered some of his questions (he was very interactive). There are only eleven monks living there now - most of the place is just empty. The others in our group were mainly Italian and could understand a fair amount of Spanish but there was also a Spanish pilgrim who had stared walking in Rome. The monk was fascinated by this and asked lots of questions, including why he had walked from Rome and why he had walked so many caminos. The guy said he asked himself the same questions and said that when he finished one he always said that was the last - but so far it never has been! He wasn’t very old so I feel this one won’t be his last either but I don’t know what you do after walking from Rome (he started on 24th March).
    We then had our sandwich and a drink before going to the mass at 7. It was a strangely perfunctory mass for me and although in a beautiful church, not as special for me as the one in O Cebreiro. Not sure anything will match that.
    Hoping to feel much better tomorrow and to find some very good food in Sarria. One of our friends was there today and seems to have found a great veggie place!    Lue lisää

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoMatkaaja

    O Cebreiro to Fonfria - still in the mou

    26. kesäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    I woke up to a misty mountain scene in complete contrast to yesterday’s bright clear skies. From the bedroom window it sounded as if it was raining, but I think it was the trees dripping. We were in the cloud rather than under it.
    As we had a very short walk today we had never planned to leave super early and we’re aiming for around 9 - so no alarm clock necessary, which was a joy!
    We decided to have breakfast at the hotel across the street where we ate with Romona last night. Just coffee and toast but with their delicious local bread which made it special.
    We did leave just after 9 and at first were strolling along a gently undulating path through the cloud.
    It was noticeable that there were lots of new people following the trail having started in O Cebreiro. - some actually running along the trail. But that didn’t last long as it soon became quite steep again in sections because we were headed up to the third highest peak of the whole walk.
    The peak is called Alto de Poio and there was a very welcomed cafe at the top where we sat for quite a while as we then only had about three and a half kilometres to go. It was fascinating watching the clouds moving, revealing the mountains at one moment and then covering them again a few minutes later. At one point we were looking down on the the cloud which undulated like the sea surrounded by a ring of mountains.
    Eventually we decided to continue on to Fonfria. Our Albergue is in a tiny village but seems to have everything we could possibly want. Great washing and drying facilites (my personal obsession). Great food - we had a delicious simple lunch including more of the delicious local cheese with honey. Fruit to buy and fab outside space. Not only loads of washing lines but tables and chairs, loungers, and a trampoline!! Of course I’ve had a quick go on the trampoline and will have another one in a minute but I did find it very exhausting - think I’m fitter but not that fit!
    Dinner in the thatched Palozzo was wonderful too - a day of superlatives. Again. We started with Galician soup, but for the first time in my experience it was vegetarian- normally it has meat in it - so I was very excited to be able to eat it. Then a sort of vegetable risotto and then torta De Santiago - home made and the best one I’ve ever tasted. Very good meal, with local Bierzo red wine and then a Galician liqueur which was a bit like baileys - but I think nicer.
    Lots of new people to meet and old friends too. A very good and really quite relaxing day.    Lue lisää

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoMatkaaja

    Pradela to O Cebreiro - the big mountain

    25. kesäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Our dorm companion of last night, Matt, decided to get up at 4am and left at 4.30. Consequently we were awake for most of time from then until 5.30 when the alarm went off. The plan was to leave at 6 because of the heat and the climb up to O Cebreiro -
    Probably the toughest we’ve done since St Jean.
    Our companion took all the loo paper with him when he left which was a bit annoying, but a bit bleary eyed -and with a bit of a headache (in my case), we did manage to leave at 6.
    It was just getting light and the hills were silhouetted against the dawn. The first 3k were downhill to Trabadelo. Then the next 10k or so we’re pretty flat, along a road next to the river but with the A6 motorway close by for most of the time.
    Coffee and paracetamol made me feel a bit more human, and by the time it was properly light I was feeling a bit better and ready to climb.
    Fortunately most of the early part of the quite steep climb was shaded by oak trees and there were plenty of places to stop for drinks - I think I drank about a litre and a half of sparkling water in less than an hour at one point. An ice cream at a cafe near the top was a huge help with the last part and then we were in Galicia!! I’m so happy as I loved Galicia in October last year and it certainly feels like quite an achievement to be here this time!
    The mountain landscapes were fabulous - I hope the photos will give some idea of the beauty of this place - but I think you really have to see the whole for yourself to get a real feel for it.
    After a lunch of various types of goats local goats cheese with honey - and more goats cheese with tomato and basalmic vinegar (a bit of mis ordering by me) but delicious - we retreated to our room as the 4am wake up call followed by the 22km uphill walk had left me at least, feeling a bit dazed.
    This evening went to a beautiful mass at the church of Santa Maria Real do Camino. A very pilgrim focused service with a wonderful priest speaking in many languages. It culminated in a pilgrim blessing. I found it very moving and was in tears by the end of the service.
    The evening finished with watching the sun set over Galicia - beautiful and memorable. O Cebreiro is a very special place and I will be very sad to leave tomorrow morning. I will definitely be coming back!    Lue lisää

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoMatkaaja
    11

    Pieros to Pradela (instead of Trabadelo!

    24. kesäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    So today after sleeping really well we left at 6.30. It was already warm but a good walking temperature and the first 6km to Villafranca was quiet and beautiful. The path wound through the vineyards of various bodegas of the Bierzo region until it reached Villafranca. Villafranca is a handsome town and I would love to explore it properly on my next Camino! There’s a castle, a working convent and some lovely churches as well as winding streets and a river in a deep gorge. We just stopped for coffee and for Caroline to charge her phone a bit.
    It was then time to make a decision about our route to Trabadelo. The usual route follows the main road and stays fairly low in The Valley. There are two other routes. One, the Dragona is reputed to be tricky and badly signed and anyway rejoins the main route too late to allow a stay in Trabadelo. The other route is called the Pradela, and rises steeply up out of Villafranca to reach the small village of Pradela before dropping down into Trabadelo.
    I was determined to take this route as I really didn’t want to walk along the road. We had been told that the road route was pretty unattractive as it also follows the A 6 motorway. However Caroline wasn’t sure about taking the steeper route in the heat (it is extremely hot today, even up high). So we had agreed to walk separately if necessary. In the end Caroline decided to walk the Pradela with me as it was still pretty early and relatively cool, and although steeper and a little longer, looked much more interesting.
    It was extremely steep to start with but gradually levelled out and became more undulating than straight up.
    The scenery was stunning and (I think) we were both really pleased that we’d made the choice. Much of the steeper part was in shade so only the last section was particularly hot, and even then we were winding through chestnut groves so in intermittent shade.
    We finally arrived in Pradela around 11. We had been told about the Albergue there by Catherine, one of the hospitaleros at Guacelmo Alberge in Rabanal. She had tried their chestnut cake and said it was amazing. It really was - so we decided to stay for lunch, and that was great too. Chestnuts are the thing round here and the family who run the hostal also use produce from their own garden for the meals. We had goats cheese salad, roasted peppers, yoghurt with chestnuts, a glass of their own red wine and were then given a thimbleful of their home made chestnut liqueur.
    As the Albergue is only 40 mins from Trabadelo (and downhill) we decided to stay rather than going to the municipal - which still means we haven’t been to a municipal yet. But this is so worth it. We are the only people here so have the dormitory to ourselves - as well as everything else. And there are kittens! I’m very happy! And a donkey!
    So have frittered the afternoon away in a very enjoyable way - some sleep, some Duolingo, some chat. Another person has turned up - Matt from Galway in Ireland. He has walked over 40km today and that is his regular distance so it will be one night only as he’s aiming to be in Santiago by next Wednesday he arrived thinking he’s in Trabadelo and a bit gutted to have walked the extra 2 k and to have gone on the super hilly route - by mistake! I’m amazed he found it as no one else seems to have take this route today and we nearly missed it initially.
    Anyway it’s nice to have some company, as long as he doesn’t snore, and it may help us to get moving early tomorrow as he leaves by 5.30am.
    Am uploading a video of our neighbouring donkey who had a mad moment just after supper. Very funny - again sound is good!    Lue lisää

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoMatkaaja
    1

    Ponferrada to Pieros

    23. kesäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Oh dear - although we’ve got veggie food tonight it feels like a bit of a mistake as a choice of a place to stay as Pieros is tiny and there seem to be only four of us staying. I’m feeling very guilty as I booked it having heard about it from another vegan pilgrim (now helping out at Albergue Verde) and thought it sounded good. Also just a relief to be able to eat something in the evening. Anyway sure it will be fine and we’ve rearranged another similar one that we were due to go to tomorrow.
    The walk today was mainly great - set off at about 6.45 in the cool of the day, and walked out of Ponferrada towards the mountains. Ponferrada is surrounded by mountains and is , I think, a lovely town.
    Walking out we gradually reached the countryside. It’s wine country and so we were walking though vineyards with grapes way more advanced than when we were in the Rioja area. I had been led to expect that it would be a boring walk mainly by roads, but this wasn’t really the case. There was some road walking but also plenty on paths and very quiet roads with fantastic birdsong.
    We were spoilt for places to stop for coffee and when we reached Cacabelos, the fairly sizeable town before the place where we were staying, we had iced coffee (in Spain coffee with an ice cube) and some padrón peppers which were delicious.
    The road to Pieros was a bit hot and lacking in shade but we were welcomed at the Albergue with iced water and after a shower felt much better.
    After working out that it was going to be very complicated getting to a nearby monastery that looked very interesting which although only about an hours walk away felt a bit far in the heat, we have now taken the bus back to town and I am now sitting by the river having had a delicious swim. Definitely the perfect antidote to the heat!!
    A glass of the local rosé wine later the bus miraculously appeared at roughly the right time, if not at the actual bus stop, and we were back at the Albergue in 5 minutes.
    Dinner was interesting. There are just 4 of us here tonight - c and I and two Germans - one of whom speaks no English at all - and neither of us speak any German. He was with us last night too in Astorga at Albergue Alea and both nights he didn’t seem too enamoured of the food. I’m pretty sure he’s staying at Casa Susie tomorrow in Trabadelo, also a veggie place, and I’m sort of wondering why as he’s definitely not vegetarian (this was clear!) and he doesn’t seem to like vegetarian food. But I guess each to their own! He’s very sweet and we all got along well in a non verbal way. Maybe I need to learn German next.
    I’m having a very early night :) as it’s super hot and will be hotter tomorrow so we’re leaving earlier.    Lue lisää

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoMatkaaja

    Riego to Ponferrada

    22. kesäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    A short day today - only 11km - so had a bit of a lie in and set off around 8.30. A very quiet alpine type walk, with some very steep rocky sections, to Molinaseca. Before leaving the Albergue we picked some more cherries from their tree - sadly there were some already beginning to rot on the tree - clearly only pilgrims are eating them.
    Molinaseca is a wonderful little village accessed over a medieval bridge. The architecture of the previous villages of the Bierzo continued with wooden balconies, often covered in geraniums, overhanging the street. As well, there were some very grand houses in this village with coats of arms displayed on their corners.
    Stopped for coffee and toast and met up with Anna and Ramona.
    Then on to Ponferrada, mainly along roads, but nevertheless pretty quiet.
    Our hostal (vegetarian/vegan) is on the outskirts of town. It’s run by a lovely quite elderly couple who were very keen to help us with anything we needed. It’s a dorm but only is at the moment. Hoping we may get it to ourselves but think it’s unlikely.
    After dropping our bagels and sorting ourselves out a bit we are now in Astorga with a glass of the local Bierzo wine.
    Bought more gazpacho and yoghurt at the supermarket so have eaten cheaply and well.
    Later: visited the Templar castle (see very scenic pictures!) and met up with Anna again - also sharing our room at the hostal. Dinner at the hostel was wonderful - for me, vegan, with lentil soup, tofu with vegetables and salad and then an orange - perfect.
    It’s hot now - I actually love the temperature although it means we will have to leave earlier so that we are not walking in the very hottest part of the day. In a way it’s been a bit strange up until now because it’s been quite cool most of the time, with the odd exception, so at last I can see what walking in the heat is like. Another challenge but I’m up for it!
    New people at dinner. As well as Anna there is Paul from Belgium who has walked from Le Puy and a Spanish man who is at the end of a cycle route on the Camino de plata and who will be home in Galicia in two days time. Also a woman from Mexico walking with four South American friends and a gentleman from Japan (he didn’t seem to want to speak and so I didn’t get to practice my Japanese).
    I am very happy and just want this experience to continue.    Lue lisää

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoMatkaaja
    12

    Rabanal to Riego de Ambos

    21. kesäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    For the first time we had coffee before leaving our accommodation- I was sad to leave Albergue Guacelmo with its lovely English hospitaleros. The reluctance to get on the way was exacerbated by being even more disorganised than usual owing to having to go to bed in the dark and try to sort stuff out in the morning while others were still sleeping.
    Finally left about 7.45 expecting a very steep climb up to Cruz de Fer. In the end it was pretty gentle -coffee on the way at Foncebaden but was glad we stayed at Rabanal as clouds would have meant no magnificent sunrise and Foncebaden did not have the same sort of atmosphere as Rabanal.
    Cruz de Fer was not quite what I expected but we were lucky that it was not too busy and I left my stone, brought from home, which is the traditional thing to do.
    From there I was expecting a steep downhill walk but in reality it was gently undulating for quite a while and the steep part (which was pretty steep with loose rocks and slate) started quite a bit later.
    It was a long tricky descent into El Acebo, where we ate very good cheese baguettes, then down further in Riego de Ambos. Had a moment of stress about whether we should continue into Riego or stop in El Acebo where there was a big modern hotel with both rooms and dorms (only the dorms would have been affordable) but so pleased we came to our Pension in Riego as it’s a lovely family run place. Very simple but we have an amazing view, a balcony where we’re drying our washing and where they made us a delicious meal - including Padrón peppers. There is a cherry tree in the garden that we were encouraged to pick from. Beautiful blush coloured cherries and so many of them!!
    I’m writing this listening to birdsong and looking out at the mountains. Very happy.

    If you watch the video I’ve attached make sure you have the sound turned up!!    Lue lisää

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoMatkaaja

    Astorga to Rabanal - into the country ag

    20. kesäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Not a great night’s sleep but manageable. Set off at 6.45 as very keen to ensure a place at the UK donativo hostel in Rabanal.
    On the way out of Astorga I decided it might be worth looking for an alternative option for another time as Astorga didn’t seem like the best place to stay for lots of reasons. However I would definitely want to visit the Gaudi palace again but think I noticed large lockers, which would mean you could leave your bag while you visited and then carry on walking.
    Anyway, at exactly the perfect moment, I came to a lovely little village, Murias de Rechivaldo, which, at about 4.5 km outside Astorga, would be the perfect place to stop. And the. I found the perfect Albergue which looked lovely and has a communal vegetarian meal. Definitely staying there next time.
    The landscape has gradually changed today to become more wooded - although at times I thought that it looked quite like the new forest with gorse and heather. Some lovely villages but now I’m in Rabanal and quite frankly I haven’t seen anything yet to match this.
    The Confraternity hostel is lovely with a huge orchard garden and hospitaleros who are happy to talk about their experiences on the Camino and life as a volunteer. Picked cherries in the garden and hung my washing out and then have wandered off to find some food. Loads of vegetarian/ vegan food round here which is so strange after Astorga where there was nothing.
    We are told that there is high tea at the Albergue and a service with Gregorian chant in the church at 7. Will report back later but it sounds as if I’m going to be busy!!
    Tea in the garden (involving large teapot and lemon drizzle cake) was fab and the sung vespers also a wonderful experience. Then dinner with friends - and now in my bed having scrabbled around in the dark trying to sort my self out. 20 bed dorm with most people already sleeping at 9.30 - I was the dirty stop out this time. At least I’m by the window which is a relief tho there is already loud snoring next to me. Oh dear!    Lue lisää

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoMatkaaja

    Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga

    19. kesäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    After dragging myself away from Albergue Verde felt like nothing would be the same -
    And it wasn’t really.
    Howver, a lovely walk with increasingly different scenery to our days on the Meseta. More undulating and greener, with more trees and less sky. Weather was mixed, cloudy but warm and then rain as we came into Astorga.
    First coffee was at Santibañez de Valdeiglesias - advised by Cally (from Albergue Verde) that the coffee wasn’t good, unfortunately listened to another guy who said it was fine. It really wasn’t - pretty i drinkable and very expensive.
    High point of the day, apart from the Palacio Gaudi in Astorga, was the donativo rest area run by David between Santibañez and St Justo. Wonderful fruit, and all sorts of other food as well as places to rest. I satisfied my craving for watermelon and also had a banana - just what I needed at that moment. A very generous place driven by love of the Camino.
    Then continued into st Justo, where I went into a farmacia to see if they could give me something to help with my wrist - think I was bitten by something in the garden last night and it has swollen up - a bit like my shoulder did previously. The stuff they gave me in Carrion de las Condes didn’t seem to be working - this farmacia advised something else. So I’m hoping, but it’s still fairly itchy and swollen at the moment.
    Into Astorga, in the rain, over a crazy bridge!
    Astorga seems a bit run down, very quiet and a bit dull.
    Our Albergue is clean but expensive for what it is and have just paid €17 for a plate. Of rice and beans - which seemed expensive. Basically back to 1970’s UK when vegetarians got the main course less the meat rather than an actual meal. It was fine but a bit boring, even when sliced up with loads of Tabasco. And I felt slightly cheated when we had to pay the same as the people eating loads of meat! But you win some, you lose some, and last night was a privilege, as was the donativo rest stop today, so I’m very happy.
    The highlight of Astorga for me is the Gaudi Palacio. Quite astonishing and I could have happily spent hours in there. Another weirdly emotional place for me - he seems to be an architect that has the power to move in an almost religious way - the chapel within the palace filled me with awe - I would come back to Astorga just to be there again.
    Something in the palace made me think of Healah from RAK, who I haven’t heard from for ages, so I WhatsApped her and she wrote back immediately - that too was a gift and very unexpected.
    Also good was meeting the other (all new) fellow pilgrims at dinner and having a drink with Bart (we met at Albergue Verde) in one of the squares.
    Need to go to sleep now as have to be up early to get to Rabanal to ensure we get places at the Confraternity hostel.    Lue lisää

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoMatkaaja

    Villar de Mazarife to Hospital de Orbigo

    18. kesäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    A day of doors and cherries!
    A pretty short day and a fairly unremarkable walk along very straight roads. No stops until about 9km when we had coffee and met up with lots of old friends.
    There is a saying that ‘the Camino will provide’ and we heard about an example of this today from Ramona. Ramona is from Germany and is walking on her own. It’s her second Camino and she is clearly planning many more. She started walking at St Jean in a pair of Asics which soon proved hopeless and she was struggling with bad blisters. She met along the way with two American women, one of whom said she was carrying a pair of shoes she had never worn but really didn’t feel she needed. She offered them to Ramona who found that they fitted her perfectly and were completely comfortable, despite the blisters. They even marched her t shirt. What’s more, the woman wouldn’t take any money for them - and they are a brand new pair of ON’s (the shoes I wear and which I know are really expensive). The Camino certainly provided! (See picture of Ramona with her new shoes).
    We also met up with Anna and Cally who are staying at Albergue Verde with us tonight.
    It really was a short walk - only about 14k.- and we were at our Albergue by about 12.
    This is an amazing place. As I’m writing the most wonderful smells are coming out of the kitchen. We were greeted with a cup of herbal tea and sheets for the bed! It is a dormitory but sheets are a great luxury.
    We had bought a carton of gazpacho for our lunch and had this in the garden, where we met more of our fellow pilgrims. One, Jason, had picked cherries along the way (he had asked the owner’s permission!) and shared these with us and others - before realising that the tree in the garden of the Albergue was also heavy with cherries. We all picked some more - perfectly ripe and straight from the tree; what could be better.
    Then had a tedious but necessary planning session to ensure that we have some places to stay before we get to Samos, from where we are booked up.
    Later we have yoga at 5, sound therapy (!) at 6 and a vegan dinner at 7.30. For me, perfect.
    And about the doors - I just saw so many lovely ones today I had to photograph them.
    Am now in bed in my big dorm having had the most wonderful evening.
    It started with yoga in the yoga studio - what I should really be doing everyday after walking but never seem to get round to. Much more fun anyway with other people.
    And then… a special moment, very very special actually. In the same studio one of the friends of the Albergue gifted us a Tibetan singing bowl session. We all lay down in the circular space, head facing inwards, with instructions just to relax and not listen to the sounds but just let them wash over you.
    I can’t describe this experience - I can only say that I felt incredibly calm afterwards and when I told him how I felt and that I had been ill previously he gave me an extra one to one session. At dinner everyone seemed very quiet - the air of calm had reached us all I think.
    Best dinner on the Camino so far - totally vegan - beetroot hummus, lentil curry with loads of vegetables, salad, saffron rice, wholemeal bread and to finish a vegan cherry cake with cherries from the garden. It’s a donativo for dinner and it’s hard to over estimate how much this whole experience meant to me. I feel very calm and cared for and desperate for this to be only my ‘first’ Camino. I really hope I can stay well enough to do it again.
    So many good experiences. And sorry about the doors but they were very interesting!    Lue lisää

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoMatkaaja

    Leon to Villar de Mararife - hot

    17. kesäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    I was so sad to leave Leon. My favourite city so far. I find that when I am out in the middle of the countryside I can’t imagine walking into the city, or even a big town, but once I’m in the.city, and particularly if I’ve chosen to have a rest day, then I get anxious about leaving for a place where there are only limited options and few people.
    So after walking out of Leon, which was surprisingly quick, I was back in open country and tiny villages with populations of less than 100. I had expected hills after what I thought was the end of the Meseta, but in fact although there were a few gentle slopes, fundamentally I was still in the Meseta - flat plains of wheat and corn and big skies. But much hotter weather than we experienced in the Meseta.
    We stopped for coffee and toast at Le Virgin del Camino - which was not as romantic as it sounded - and then visited a very different church. The architecture was modern, brutalist, but, I thought, very beautiful. Instead of big windows there were almost no windows at all. Surprisingly this wasn’t awful but very moving - not sure I can really describe it. The alter was the only place of colour in the building and was lit, partly by a light well a bit like a chimney, from where light shone down just on this part of the interior.
    Moving on, in increasing heat, we walked to Oncina de La Valdoncina. Where we stopped again for a cold drink in a lovely Albergue with a cool, almost Moorish style interior courtyard.
    On again for the last stretch to Villar de Mazarife - a bit further than we had expected. Very hot walking but we just had to get there. Used Rachel’s Nordic walking technique to spur me along but was very relieved to arrive at our Albergue- San Antonio de Padua. We have a room with shared bathroom and are promised a vegetarian meal - very exciting! All very clean and quite quiet with a great washing line (these things really matter!!). I’m now sitting in the shady garden with a nice breeze blowing. More later.
    Wonderful vegetarian meal tonight with great company. Apart from Alan and Janet, veteran pilgrims (this is their 16th time) from Canada, everyone was new to us. Really enjoyed meeting Raul, a Spanish artist, and his son, Ben and Georgie from Australia and a family from Canada and the US - two brothers and the son and daughter of one of them, who started walking the Camino just before covid struck and had to get out quickly when the Spanish government declared a state of emergency. They have just started again in Leon.
    So good to meet some new pilgrims as most of our friends have either stopped or gone on ahead. Some of them will be at our yoga hostel !’(!) tomorrow evening. More of that tomorrow.    Lue lisää

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoMatkaaja

    Another day without walking - but still

    16. kesäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    A day in Leon. Marvellous city with so much to see. After having a coffee (with free breakfast) we went to the Church of San Isadore and the museum that hold its treasures.
    It’s a 10th century Romanesque church; simple and stunningly beautiful. The museum, which is housed in part of the church, has a library of ancient books including a complete bible dating back to the 10th century. There are original 12th century frescos and a chalice, the base of which dates from the 4th century and the gold and jewels embellishing it were added in the 12th century.
    There really was too much to take in and we were not allowed to take any photos but it will stay in my mind for a long time.
    I would really recommend visiting Leon.
    Close to San Isidore we found a lovely little vegetarian shop and restaurant where I had a juice and a vegan empanada - my first empanada as they are usually made with meat or tuna - and possibly my last as the guy in the shop said! Delicious.
    Then to the Correos to post excess kit to Santiago - it feels very good to get rid of stuff at the moment and am concerned about how I will feel when I get home - think I may be inclined to carrying on disposing as it’s amazing how little you need really, particularly when mainly dressed in merino!
    Now sitting at a cafe with an iced coffee (or coffee and ice as seems to be the thing here) before going to the cathedral. Does it get any better.
    Later: well it did. The cathedral is probably the most beautiful place I’ve ever been to (for me just about equals the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona which brought me to tears). As soon as I went into the cathedral I was in tears - something about the delicacy of the architecture and the phenomenal stained glass. I have quite honestly never seen anything like it. I know Gaudi was very inspired by the cathedral and I can see so clearly that this is true. I was struck by everything really, but one thing in particular was the use of light and colour - warm colours on one side and cool on the other - echoed by Gaudi in The Sagrada Familia.
    Spent a long time there and later went to mass in the beautiful side chapel. Then treated myself to a hazelnut ice cream at Holy Cow - recommended by Happy Cow!
    Low point of the day, which worked out okay on the end. Was trying to find something to eat. This city does not open for food until 8.30pm. We tried about four places recommended on Happy Cow which were supposed to be open and either were closed or not serving food til later. Eventually returned to the hotel which has a bar and managed to persuade them to make a cheese sandwich- actually pretty good in the end but by them I was starving and I think anything would have done.
    Reason for the slight urgency was that when in the cathedral I had seen a poster advertising organ concerts in the cathedral. They only take place about every six weeks but there was one tonight - free and no tickets required. I was really keen to hear the organ as it is quite new and apparently very special.
    The concert started at 8.30 and was wonderful. The organist was from Bruges cathedral and he was playing with a disabled woman who plays the pan pipes. This might sound unusual but it was a beautiful concert. Because of her disability she can’t play a regular flute but has adapted flute music for the pan pipes and it was fantastic very accomplished playing. The organ was outstanding - I’m so grateful that I was able to hear it played.
    Late to bed given the need to get up early tomorrow morning but very much worth it. Sitting here with a face mask on (given to me by Rachel) so hoping I will look fab for my walk out of Leon tomorrow.    Lue lisää

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoMatkaaja

    Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon - time to

    15. kesäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Aimed to leave at 6.30 but snoozed my alarm for the first time and then could not fit everything into my rucksack so had to do a complete repack. I bought some cherries and nuts, seeds, yoghurts etc last night and they were just too big to fit in so had to abandon two yoghurts and an energy bar. Sad but very necessary. Even then had half a packet of rice cakes hanging off my pack in a dry bag.
    Finally left at about 7 expecting a horrible walk into Leon. I had been told that it would be 18 km literally on the hard shoulder of a busy A road and was definitely prepared for the worst.
    However, either people were hugely exaggerating or the route has been altered but there was only about 50m of walking with the traffic and the rest was on tracks - sometimes close to the road but never on it and often in what felt like the middle of the countryside - although so close to Leon.
    Stopped for coffee in Puente Villarente at what seemed to be a very popular local spot - and discovered the Leonaise tradition of giving tapas with the coffee - in this case a raisin croissant all for €1.40! Later spoke to one of the helpful policías who explained that this is the custom in the area of Leon - quite rare in Spain. I really appreciated the croissant with my coffee although I had brought my yoghurt, blueberries and seeds. I had to eat a second breakfast later as they were heavy and I was fed up with carrying them.
    Arrived in Leon having got a great view of the cathedral from the hill i approached on. As with any city, initially the outskirts were a bit dull, although I really find any city in Spain fascinating as I spend my time trying to read all the shop signs. But once I passed through the Puerta Monada it was fabulous. Winding streets, beautiful architecture and buzzing with life. A huge contrast to my much missed Meseta but wonderful too.
    Took my time reaching the cathedral by following the yellow arrows and then bumped into Caroline, Rachel and Mike on their way to the cathedral. I felt too hot and bothered and keen to get rid of my rucksack to join them so headed for the hotel, which is right by the cathedral.
    After cooling down a bit and doing a bit of washing, Caroline and I went to the Casa Botines, which is a Gaudi building and the Gaudi museum in Leon. I love Gaudi and it was a fascinating place including descriptions of his techniques (which including the importance of recycling, and sunlight and air in his buildings - which seemed very ahead of his time), rooms set up to look as they would have done when it was built and many rooms of paintings.
    The evening was a celebration of Nick’s 65th birthday. We joined him at the Patio and then went on to eat at an Italian style restaurant and a beautiful square which served huge pizzas.
    It was a long, busy and very enjoyable day but I’m exhausted now and looking forward to a lie in tomorrow.    Lue lisää

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoMatkaaja

    Calzadilla to Mansilla de las Mulas - th

    14. kesäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    As far as I could see there were only the six pilgrims at our Albergue Via Trajana walking the Via Romana today. And of them I only saw two, Stephanie the digital nomad originally from Germany and Dominic from France. Rachel and I had the road to ourselves - silent apart from birdsong.
    The road was not nearly as difficult as we had been led to believe. When we were walking on a Roman road earlier in the Camino it was made up of very large cobble stones but this was much smoother - I think better preserved as the top layer of smaller pebbles was mainly still there and in parts there was also a sandy layer making it smoother and softer on the feet.
    So it was another pretty long walk and, of course, very straight, but beautiful, deserted and quiet.
    We have had an amazing day of weather - no rain or thunderstorms for almost the first time on the Camino. The rain usually starts just after we arrive at our destination of the day but it is a pity that often we can’t sit out in the evenings. Today was different and it is still warm and sunny now.
    After arriving in Mansilla de las Mulas, Rachel and I found coffee and waited for the others to arrive. Sadly no iced coffee which was what I really needed - the caffeine but cold! But so good to sit down. Rachel was developing blisters and I was really tired.
    Unfortunately when the others arrived they had to get on the bus to Leon straight away as there wasn’t another one until 4 so I didn’t get to see them before they left.
    We found out today that Caroline has had a stomach upset - I felt terrible that I wasn’t with her and I’m amazed that she managed to walk after being sick all night. She was well looked after by Nick and Paul tho.
    So then I was on my own. I found some more cherries (the Spanish cherries are amazing - I’ve been buying them almost every day) and went to check in at my Albergue.
    Then went to find the swimming spot I had been promised. It was amazing. My first wild swim on the Camino and worth the wait. There was even a little beach to sit on.
    I really love Mansilla - it seems to be a friendly laid back town - and I’m pleased I chose to stay here rather than moving on to the city.
    Didn’t go out to eat tonight as thought it might be a bit weird on my own but I guess if I was lucky enough to be able to do this again I wouldn’t be guaranteed a companion so would have to get used to that!!
    Planning an early night - once I’ve found an audiobook for the walk along the road into Leon tomorrow.    Lue lisää

    Katso käännös
  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoMatkaaja

    Terradillos to Calzadilla de los Hermani

    13. kesäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Half way!!
    Today I walked just over 30 km and on the way, at Sahagun, I received my half way certificate at the chapel of La Pelegrína.
    There has been every sort of weather today, sun, cloud, mist and a little rain, but I’m sitting on a terrace outside the hostal (room with Rachel tonight with sheets and towels!!) watching my washing dry - and squeezing the water out every so often to try to ensure it dries!
    The day was long but pretty flat - but I can now just see some mountains to the north which are, according to the guidebook, the Cordillera Cantábrica, an extension of the Pyrenees.
    We left at about 6.45 and reached Sahagun around 9.30. Coffee and wholemeal croissants were delicious and then a bit of a hiatus to try to find the chapel where they give the half way certificate.
    Today was weird in that after Sahagun I separated from Caroline, my constant companion of the last three weeks and headed for the Via Romana - a beautiful and very little travelled alternative route along an ancient Roman road. Other than in the shop in the tiny village where the two routes separate,, where we met a French pilgrim also stocking up on food, we saw no one until we arrived in Sahagun. Very empty countryside and with a storm threatening we were really pleased to arrive at our Albergue without getting too wet.
    It feels very different being in such a quiet place with very very few other pilgrims.
    After much needed and very successful clothes washing and drying we had a pilgrim meal with our four fellow guests Stephanie, another digital nomad originally from Germany, Dominic from France and Jane and Eric from Michigan US. It was so fascinating to meet more new people and to hear about their lives and their experiences on the Camino. I even got a really vegetarian meal! What a day!!    Lue lisää

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoMatkaaja

    Carrion los Condes to Terradillos de los

    12. kesäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    A long quiet day - so I thought I’d write about some practicalities of the Camino.
    The day first: very long (or at least it felt like it), very hot after about 10am and very few services. Although the monastery hotel was great and very comfortable we had a strange moment when leaving as the cold water was running very warm in our room - not great for filling water bottles - so went downstairs to ask reception to fill them for us. But the water there was also warm - not just not cold but actually warm. Then filled from the pilgrim fuente outside the monastery and that was the same - something very weird going on with the water system.
    We had been warned that it would be 17km before we would be able to get anything - including water but in the end there was a brilliant, and very much appreciated by passing pilgrims, good truck with fab coffee and the best tomato toast.
    Then more coffee at a tiny town about 7km further on.
    It was a hard slog after that along a senda to Ledigos. Green juice at the hostel saved my life and it was great meeting up with Rachel again who is to be my companion on the lonely Via Romana for two days.
    Hostal is a bit grim but tolerable - I’ve been spoilt by my night at the monastery.
    Practicalities then: washing is done every day when we arrive using whatever is available. My stuff is almost entirely merino so I don’t really want to subject it to a community wash as I’m worried everything might shrink. Most people wash by hand in any soap that might be provided (none tonight), shower gel, shampoo or face wash. Seem to work okay most of the time. Then I dry stuff either outside - keeping a steely eye on the weather as we tend to have torrential downpours with thunder and lightning every afternoon from about 4. Alternatively I have an amazing travel clothes line which I can usually attach somewhere in the room and the stuff has always dried by the morning.
    Breakfast isn’t usually available by the time we need to leave (usually around 6.30) so we carry with us nuts and dried fruit and sometimes fresh fruit is we’ve found some, together with a slightly fermenting yoghurt that we’ve managed to find the previous day and not been able to refrigerate in our dorm room. This is, to be honest, a great breakfast and we’ve eaten in some wonderful places. It’s always a retired that the pack is a bit lighter afterwards.
    Will write about dinner tomorrow!!!    Lue lisää

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoMatkaaja
    1

    Fromista to San Zoilo - Sunday 11th June

    11. kesäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    This will be a short entry as it’s very late, I’m very tired and we have a very long day ahead of us tomorrow.
    Today started with a beautiful walk along a river - slightly longer than the regular route but avoiding the ‘senda’ which seems to be the Camino word for a path running right beside a road. Loads of birdsong and very loud front noises made it fun.
    We walked for this part of the day with Sheryl and Janice and I loved hearing all about life and landscapes in Winnipeg, Manitoba. Stopped for coffee (very necessary) early at a little hotel that might be worth noting for future trips and then ate our breakfast at a table in a park a bit further on (our own yoghurts, nuts , fruits etc.
    at about 11.30 we came to the end of the river path and found another cafe at Villalcazar de Sirdo for coffee and delicious watermelon.
    Then came the trickiest part of the day - a long straight senda into Carrion los condes with looming storm approaching from behind us. Very hot and humid and my feet began to get sore so I was very relieved to get to the start of the town where I found a shady bench outside an hermita to change my shoes.
    The town was celebrating Corpus Christi and the street were decorated with rose petals for the parade which included the children who had taken their first communion in May.
    Ate tortilla at a very crowded bar in the square and then headed for our monastery hotel which is about a kilometre out of town.
    Getting clean felt great but I’m really struggling with a large insect bite on my shoulder which is quite swollen and very itchy. When we headed back into town later to join the nuns singing at the Santa Maria Albergue I found a pharmacy open and the pharmacist looked a bit worried and gave me hydrocortisone crème. Doesn’t seem to be working yet but I live in hope!
    After joining the nuns at 6 we went to mass at 7 and then hared back to the hotel for dinner at 8 (the earliest they do). Very very hungry but had a good actual vegetarian meal and feel better now - which is lucky as there’s nothing for 17km tomorrow when we start walking and we haven’t got much food left. Think I’ll be resorting to the energy bars finally! Still, at least my pack will the a bit lighter.
    Huge thunderstorm raging outside at the moment - second one today. We’ve been so fortunate not to get caught in the rain today. Hoping the same for tomorrow.    Lue lisää

  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoMatkaaja
    11

    More layered landscapes on the wonderful

    10. kesäkuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Another perfect day of big skies, no rain and warm but not hot temperatures. Castrojeriz to Fromista.
    The Camino provided so many gifts today. More of my treasured layers landscapes, new birds (great reed warbler, stone chat), frogs, 11th century churches and a great vegan albérgue - tho this was at lunch time unfortunately still leaving me with a less than vegetarian evening meal.
    After a steep climb we passed another monastery albergue, this time run by the Italian Confraternity. Tiny and candlelit but not quite so ruined. Again I’d love to stay there if I am lucky enough to be able to walk again.
    Mostly flat earth paths today so easy walking - but totalling about 26 km. Amazingly didn’t feel tired at the end but I’m very tired now.
    Tiny albergue tonight (Vicus) in Fromista but we have our own room.
    Dinner with Sheryl and Janice - great company - food not so much but my fault as I chose wrong.    Lue lisää

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