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  • Day 5

    Day 3 - Larrasaona to Pamplona

    April 19 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 54 °F

    And the sun came out!! Today was a nice easy day - only 10.3 miles and one mild hill. 32,318 steps. We started out through beautiful flower lined paths and forest. Just as I was thinking how the whole trail has been beautiful, it popped onto the shoulder of a busy highway for two half mile stretches. Oh well. I officially came out of the Pyrenees foothills today and into a valley. Unfortunately, we climb out of that valley tomorrow. The last 3ish miles today was going through a suburb of Pamplona and a park. Lots of Spaniards out biking, walking dogs/kids and just going about their life. At least half of the locals I passed would say Buen Camino as we passed. A large bike group went by and every single one said it with a little bike chime added. School kids out at recess waved at us and said it. I’m surprised they aren’t thoroughly sick of that phrase, but I guess it shows how proud they are of the Camino and how friendly the country is. Got into Pamplona and promptly had a pinxtos (smaller version of tapas). Not really sure what it was but it had cheese and I think sardines. Pretty good. I’m in an itty bitty hotel room tonight, but it has a private bathroom (with a real towel!!), no roommates and is in the Casco Antigua (old city) right on the Camino trail so I’m a happy camper. Did my “chores” of showering and hand-washing my walking clothes before doing a walk around because it was siesta time and all the main sights were closed. Saw Catedral de Santa Maria la Real, the Iglecia de San Nicolas, Plaza Consistorial (where my hotel is), Plaza Castillo (Hemingway’s plaza in The Sun Also Rises) Iglesia de San Lorenzo and did a tour of the Plaza de los Toros (the bullfighting ring). Kind of just looks like an open air ballpark but with sand and a lot of concrete corrals and food/water troughs. Interesting to learn about the whole process. Pretty confident I don’t want to be a bull in my next life. Met up with some of my fellow walkers and had a dinner of tapas at a few places. I really like Pamplona - it would be nice to come back.

    I am now known as Minnesota Becks. An Italian couldn’t say my name and calls me Becks or Becksy. Walked part of the way with a couple from Shoreview (a town near Eden Prairie for you non-Minnesotans) so it appears Minnesota has at least 4 people walking right now. The 4th Minnesotan I haven’t met but appears not to be liked. I won’t tell you his nickname. Added Scotland, New Zealand, Germany, Austria, and Sardonia to the list of countries represented. Also learned German and Austrian men just hang out in their underwear and shirt when in their dorm rooms. And not boxers either. I suppose it’s no different than a Speedo. It was just me and those two sharing a room until another woman got added early evening. Very nice men and good bunk mates other than the whole underwear thing.
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  • Day 4

    Day 2 - Burguete to Larrasoana

    April 18 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Burguete to Espinal to Biskarret to Zubiri to Larrasoano. Today was a day of “rolling” hills - and more rain. Calling these hills rolling is like calling a house “quaint.” It requires a lot of work. While not as steep, the paths we climbed up and down were pure rock - smooth rock sheets, rocks jutting out of the ground in long lines, and small chunks of- with fun mud and water puddles in between. Made for some slow and careful stepping! And a few times we had no choice but to wade ankle deep through water and/or mud. But the fog was mostly gone so we could see the countryside, which was beautiful, and we went through a handful of cute towns. All of the houses in these little towns are beautiful, old and perfectly maintained. Lots of horses and sheep, and since they roam free, lots of their poop to step around in a few spots. Stopped for breakfast after 4 miles and had my first tortilla de patates, a Spanish omelet/quiche with potatoes and onions - really delicious. Had a nice communal dinner at my albergue, and was given a nice little speech about what I’ll learn on the Camino by the owner of a grocery store I went to for road snacks tomorrow. How to live in the moment, that “stuff” isn’t necessary and whatever lesson my heart wants me to learn. He then gave me a bar of chocolate, so he’s my favorite person on this trip.

    Pictures in order: church with these funky trees seen everywhere; standard house door with thistles for protection and good luck; the Pyrenees in the distance; one of several pedestrian bridges I crossed; tortilla de patates and cafe con leche; one of the less rocky paths climbed; spring mountain flowers; part of the Puente de rabias bridge into Zubiri (legend says you walk your animals across 3x to protect them from rabies); the elevation maps for yesterday and today; mural in my albergue showing I’ll walk through 138 towns/cities on the Camino, excluding all the little hamlets. Accidentally stopped vs paused my tracker when I took a lunch break, but 2/3rds of the route I walked today
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  • Day 3

    Day 1 - St Jean Pied de Port to Burguete

    April 17 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    Climbed a mountain today, crossing the Pyrenees from France into Spain. Rained pretty much all day, and was so foggy you couldn’t see more than 20 feet in front of you at times. And you certainly couldn’t see the amazing views this portion is known for. The first 5 miles were not fun. Steady sharp climb with no break - and a long line of people looking like they deeply regret their decision to do this walk. After that point though, it was tough but the climbs were broken up by little flat bits. The descent was steep and slippery in spots with mud, incredibly thick layers of leaf rot and wet rocks, but through a beautiful old growth forest. And then we hit flatish ground for the last 4 miles. Planned 16.5 miles today and did 19 - missed a turn due to fog and had to take the longer route down as the police closed the short route due to weather. Took 8.5 hours, and I was tired, muddy and hungry when done. Felt pretty good, but I will definitely be sore tomorrow. Met some really nice people I walked with off and on, and had dinner with. So far my Camino “family” represents Korea, Japan, Italy, Phoenix and Buffalo. Pics in order: starting out, lots of horses roaming free with bells on their neck that sounded like wind chimes, a food truck right before the last climb - the only place for good and water in 14 miles, the start of the descent path, part of the forest, the well known but not accurate sign outside Roncesvelles, a mural welcoming you to Burguete, my shoes after today, marker showing you entered Spain, and the foggy view from the top, my route today.Read more

  • Day 2–3

    Day 0 - St Jean Pied de Port, France

    April 16 in France ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Minneapolis to Paris to Barriatz to St Jean Pied de Port, my starting point. After going to the Pilgrim’s Office to get my credentials, maps and weather/safety instructions for Day 1 and checking in to my albergue, I had just enough time to take a quick walk around the old town (where I stayed) and see the Ingles de Notre Dame du Pont. Grabbed crepes for dinner and then prepped for tomorrow. People were asleep by 8 already, so it was an early night.Read more

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