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  • ResenärCamino Frances
    Dag 15

    Day 13 Atapuerca Village to Burgos

    29 april, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    Atapuerca Village to Cardeñuela Riopico to Burgos. 13.1 miles. A short easy day into Burgos. The real path has you walking on the shoulder of a highway for 8 miles, so we opted for the detour route. Was a little tricky to find as it was a little dirt path off the side of the highway that took you around the Burgos airport before eventually leading into a town and then a paved path along the river into Burgos. That path went on for almost 8 miles, with lots of Burgonians (ites?) out walking. And lots of really well behaved dogs living their best life jumping in and out of the river and rolling in the grass. Lots of Buen Camino from the locals.

    My place was over a mile from the historic center, but right across from the Evolution Museum. Which was closed because, well, Spain on a Monday. We dropped bags and wandered to find a grocery store and a late lunch in Plaza Mayor. All the sites were closed for siesta so went back to shower and do laundry. Did a small amount of exploring later, but was very disappointed not to be able to see the Cathedral as they closed it that evening for some big music event in its front square. So I only saw the outside. Went into a few other churches, saw the El Cid statue and the Arco and Puerto de Santa Maria. I didn’t do much more because I have anither 19+ mile day tomorrow and it was getting late. Had a really good salmon and potato salad (vegetables and protein - yea!) for dinner, and found out a local anonymously paid for my dinner. So that was a really nice surprise. Suspect the socks with sandals and slightly smelly athletic attire gave me away as the only pilgrim in the place. Or perhaps they felt bad both the cathedral and museum were closed. Either way, I was grateful.

    I’m disappointed I couldn’t fit in a rest day here. It seems like a great city with so much to explore. Have to return one day. That’s one big downside of the Camino - you see so many great places, but you can’t really explore them because they aren’t open when you go by or get to your stopping point, you simply don’t have time or you just need to keep walking the next day. I suspect it’s why the forums and guidebooks suggest taking at least 45 days to do the Camino.    Läs mer

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  • ResenärCamino Frances
    Dag 14

    Day 12 Belorado to Atapuerca Village

    28 april, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Belorado to Tosantos to Villafeanca Montes de Oca to St Juan de Ortega to Ages to Atapuerca Village. 19 miles. Today was a great day - I slept great, the weather was cool but sunny and the walking paths and towns were pretty. The route was very challenging in spots - we crossed the Oca Mountains - but we went through a lot of forest. The Ocas were challenging not so much because of overall height, but because it was a series of steep ups and downs. You crest one ascent and see 4 more ahead of you.

    Places were open,, we had a lot of miles, and one 11 mile stretch between towns, so I ate all the food today, starting with an actual and plentiful breakfast cooked by my hostel owner. We are learning that you need to eat big and often when you do these kind of cumulative miles. So if a town was open, we ate. Luckily, it was really good food on the way.

    Walked with an Australian man who was a great photographer - he saw things in ways I wouldn’t like how a church bell made a cool shadow on a wall or looking at a bridge from a crouch shows the arches better. Still not carrying a DSLR and 4 lenses though.

    Felt really strong the whole 19 miles. My hostel was rather rustic, the village is itty bitty snd it was raining all evening, so pretty much just showered, laundered, ate a crappy bar pizza, and crashed. But I had curtains on my bunk so it was fun to just close yourself off from the other 12 people right next to you.    Läs mer

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  • ResenärCamino Frances
    Dag 13

    Day 11 Santo Domingo to Belorado

    27 april, Spanien ⋅ 🌬 46 °F

    Santo Domingo to Granon to Redecilla del Camino to Castildelgado to Viloria del Rieja to Belorado. 14.7 miles. Today was another gray day with rain, and I was a little hangry half way thru as Granon only had pastries and that doesn’t fuel you for 10 miles of hilly walking. Delicious, but not good energy. We took a 1/2 mile detour in the rain following a sidewalk sign pointing to a restaurant loudly proclaiming it is open 24 hours - only to find a depressing and very closed truck stop type place. So I sat on the steps in the rain and ate a vending machine protein bar called Corny (not good) and my last beef stick. There is truly no rhyme or reason I can figure out to when things are open. Oh well. We trudged on. And then a pretty rainbow appeared, the hills stopped and.a crowd of people pointed us to someplace that was actually open. Hallelujah!

    Belorado is a fun town, and my hostel was really nice. Had pinxchos and drinks with a group, and then explored a tiny bit before going back to my hostel. I was feeling pretty tired the past two days after some poor sleep and not a lot of nutritional value food for the miles. While shorter mileage days and nothing to challenging, they felt hard for some reason. Going to bed early tonight in the hope of a better mood and energy for a long and physically challenging 19 miler tomorrow.    Läs mer

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  • ResenärCamino Frances
    Dag 12

    Day 10 Najera to Santo Domingo

    26 april, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Najera to Azofra to Ciruena to Santo Domingo de la Calzado. 14.5 miles. This day of walking was strange. Beautiful countryside, with churches set against and partially carved into the mountains. However, walking through both of the towns on the way to Santo Domingo felt like walking through a movie set. Azifra had beautiful old buildings and homes, while Ciruena lacked any imagination at all. There was a golf course and then row after row of identical condo type buildings in four styles: army barracks, Swiss chalet, modern glass and some stucco-ish look. And not a single person to be seen other than pilgrims and the few people working the one bar/restaurant open in each town. Where are the people??? It was truly eerie - like walking through a ghost town. Our host that night said they are “old” generation towns where all the young people have left, and the remaining residents only come out for dinner.

    But Santo Domingo made up for it - a vibrant pretty town that clearly loves Saint Domingo, the Builder of Bridges. He was a hermit that had a dream telling him to make the way for pilgrims easier and safer, so he started building roads, the town and as you can guess, bridges. He was the OG recycler, using old Roman roads and buildings for his construction.

    The Cathedral was magnificent - and has the unusual addition of a fancy chicken coop. The hen and rooster (one of several apparently) are supposedly descendants from the miracle birds Saint Domingo brought back to life to save a boy from hanging. Boy was falsely accused of stealing after he rejected a town daughter, and Domingo pled his case. The constable said he could no more save the boy than he could bring the chicken he was eating back to life. Domingo accepted the challenge and both boy and chicken lived on.    Läs mer

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  • ResenärCamino Frances
    Dag 12

    Day 9 Logrono to Najera

    26 april, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Logrono to Navarette to Ventosa to Najera. 18.5 miles. Walked through La Rioja wine region today, so grape vines galore. It was a relatively easy and beautiful walk, with one big hill and lots of little ones. Navarette and Ventosa were cute towns, but Najera was rather dingy. Explored the monastery while waiting for a restaurant - any restaurant - to open their kitchen. Can’t say I like the late dinner thing here. The monastery was really cool, with half of it built into red rock mountains. Lots of kings and queens of Navarre buried there, along with a sad chapel containing a queen and 8 of her children who died before the age of 5. Wonder how many children she had overall??

    There used to be a castle built next to and into the hills here, but only a few windows cut into the hillside are left.

    My room is freezing and the main fuse went out - so I’m huddled under two blankets with a tiny bedside lamp to see by. When I talked to the owner an hour ago, he just shrugged and said it’s an old building, he’ll fix it tomorrow and gave me an extra blanket. Can’t say Najera is a place I’d return to, but they can’t all be fantastic.    Läs mer

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  • ResenärCamino Frances
    Dag 10

    Day 8 Logrono Rest Day

    24 april, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Today is the only full rest day I have planned. Slept in a bit and went to a laundromat. Changed into my sarong in the bathroom there and washed every single thing I had with me. Very cold for 1.5 hours, but nobody blinked an eye and it’s glorious to have truly clean clothes again. Picked up an adapter and some saline and chores were done.

    Made the rounds of the major sites in the Casco Antigua. No celebrity status today, just another poorly dressed Americano in a fleece with socks and sandals.

    Had a late lunch / early dinner on Calle Laurel, a really cool street known for tapas and just good food overall. I was there early so it wasn’t crowded at all, but I guess it is packed in the evenings. Had a great meal of artichokes and octopus. American metal and hair bands are a big thing here - everyone was playing it and singing along. Generally hear older American music wherever I go now that I think of it.

    It’s 4 pm now and I’m hunkered down in my room with no plans other than to shower, pack, read a little for the first time this trip, and go to bed early. High mileage day tomorrow, and the point of today was to rest the body. Still did 5 miles for chores and a little sight-seeing.    Läs mer

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  • ResenärCamino Frances
    1
    Dag 10

    Day 7 Sansol to Logrono

    24 april, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    Sansol to Torres del Rio to Vianna to Logroño. 14 miles today in about 5 hours. 35,401 steps, including a bit around Logrono for groceries and dinner (and finding my hostel, which was right in front of me the whole time). But the road around 7:15 today and walked a whole 1 km to the next town for breakfast. My usual Neapolitan pastry with cafe con leche. Two ~11 km (6.2 mile) stretches between towns today. Did the first one at a slower pace than normal to allow a friend who stayed 4 miles before Sansol to catch up at the next town. A pretty little stretch with lots of rolling hills. They call this segment the Knee Wrecker, which I thought odd since it is mild compared to the first 4 days. But my knees were pretty sore still, so maybe it’s the accumulation? Vianna was a nice town, and as the only rest/food pace today, pretty busy with pilgrims. It amazes me how these small towns can have such grand churches - 11 big alters in their main one and it was “just” an iglesia, not a catedral. There was also a ruin of a 15th century church that was really pretty, and still had some of its original murals despite being exposed to the elements. They sure knew how to build things. Pretty flat and not very exciting stretch into Logrono- pretty vineyards and grass fields leading into 2.5 miles of industrial park heading into Logrono. And one last big hill because why not?

    Right as we entered, a big group of kids - guessing 13 or 14 years old - mobbed us. At first I thought it was a pickpocket situation, but then a women came up to calm them and explained she was their English teacher taking them in a field trip along part of the Camino to experience it and practice their English. They were really fun and full of questions about America and the Camino (although one girl was clearly hoping I was British). One boy asked if I knew Colin from Michigan. Sadly I do not. They followed us into the city, mimicking our walk and pretending to have backpacks and poles. We felt like quite the celebrities! My hostel room is simple but nice with a wonderful 5 head shower that took me a bit to figure out. And it’s smack in the middle of Casco Antigua (the old medieval town). No sight-seeing today - just took a long shower, rested, ran a few errands and caught up with people back home. Met my friend for grocery shopping and dinner. Finally had some vegetables for dinner - a nice salmon, prawn and anchovy salad. It’s very carb heavy in the smaller towns, which is good for walking, cheap and yummy, but I was craving vegetables and protein.    Läs mer

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  • ResenärCamino Frances
    1
    1
    Dag 10

    Day 6 Estella to Sansol

    24 april, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 41 °F

    Estella to Azqueta to Villamayor de Monjardin to Los Arcos to Sansol. 18 miles in 7 hours. 41,641 steps. Started this walk in the dark at 6:20 am. Also did most of my walk looking like an unhomed person with my still wet laundry pinned to my backpack. Just one of the realities of the Camino. Still not much open in smaller towns on a Monday, so I was starving by the time I reached Sansol - and had a 4 hour wait until the only dinner in town. Hilly in the first half, and then pretty flat but very dusty. Lots of grape vines, olive trees and poppies today. I’m really living the poppies and badly want to pick some. Oh - and artichoke fields, which I’ve never seen before. Passed the Irache Vineyard (a big one in Spain), where they have a wine spigot for the pilgrims. I stuck to the water spigot. Based on the amount of wine getting dumped or spit out, seems like I made the better choice. Can’t imagine they are putting their best wine out for free. Visited an incredible iron workshop, where the artist was hard at work on a sculpture. If I didn’t have to carry, a large bull sculpture would have been coming home with. I never knew such fine detail could be done in iron.
    Stayed at the Palacio de Sansol, a restored palace from the 1200’s. A retired professor had grown up there and dreamed of restoring it for himself and pilgrims to use. Bought it for 30,000 euro and invested 1 million euro over 7 years. Lived in it for a year before he died. Now his son runs it. Our communal dinner was supposedly what the professor ate every night. Artichoke and jamon soup, followed by tortilla de potates and yogurt. It was good, but I would say the boredom of that meal might have been what did him in. Served by a woman who looked like my Aunt Cathy, and made me eat three bowls of soup. I didn’t dare say no even though two was quite enough. I fixed the broken washing machine door, so I was quite the hero and got to use the dryer for free. Which appeared to also be broken since my clothes were still damp after 1.5 hours. Fortunately the radiator was really hot and did the trick. Again, the glamour of backpack life.    Läs mer

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  • ResenärCamino Frances
    111
    Dag 7

    Day 5 Puenta la Reina to Estella

    21 april, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    Puente La Reina to Maneru to Curaqui to Lorca to Villatuerta to Estella. 15 miles in 6.5 hours. 36,726 steps. Today was a beautiful sunny day, with 2 steep hills and several smaller hills in between. Sensing a theme? The countryside was beautiful, with some olive trees, huge fields of mustard plants, and bright red poppies all along the path. Passed more cute towns and some huge churches that looked like mini fortresses. Oddly enough, churches were closed to visitors on Sunday, other than at mass time. So were pretty much all stores and restaurants until we got to Estella. Thank goodness for a few Albergues on the way with sandwiches and tortillas. Estella had 3 restaurants and one tiny market open.

    Stayed in a nice albergue in the “glamping” section, but had an interesting night of little sleep. First a large group of New Zealanders were partying until 1 am on the patio outside my window, and then the woman below me had night terrors twice with a lot of whimpering and 2 bloodcurdling screams that woke us all in panic and brought the hospitalerio in checking things out. then she left at 4:30 am and another person at 5:30 am, both making little effort to be quiet. Insult to injury, she took my socket adaptor when she left (I let her plug into it along with my phone cord). I’m glad I brought my power bank since it’s not something I can buy until I’m in a bigger city in 2 days. Karma got her though because she left 2 pairs of socks and underwear and a pair of pants behind. In all seriousness, I hope she’s ok.

    Tomorrow is a big day at 17.5 miles and more big hills, so I’m off to bed shortly.    Läs mer

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  • ResenärCamino Frances
    Dag 6

    Day 4 - Pamplona to Puenta la Reina

    20 april, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 55 °F

    Pamplona to Obanos to the Alto de Pardon to Uterga to Puerta La Reina. 18.3 miles. More sun today, and another very very big hill and some smaller not another hill hills. Today was a long one, taking 9.5 hours including a croissant and coffee break, a lunch break and a 30 min nap in the shade waiting for seista to end so we could see a unique church we took a 2 mile detour to see. We made it to the very windy top of the Alter of Pedron (Hill of Forgiveness), only to not see the Cross of Forgiveness. Apparently no one saw it - it was blocked by some tour groups and busses. But we got the obligatory picture with the pilgrim sculptures. Saw some nice churches, lots of windmills and trekked up and down more rocky hills. My knees were finally recovering from the first two days, and are now back to being sore. Besides sore feet at the end of the day and a blister on both pinky toes from having wet feet the first two days, my knees have been the only thing bothering me - and only on descents. They’re getting better already, so I’m starting to acclimate. We were going to run to the grocery store tonight for breakfast and snacks, but opted out when we learned it would have been a mile round trip. That pretty much sums up the level of tiredness tonight. Most things will be closed tomorrow (Sunday), so we’ll see what we find for food on the way.

    The octagonal church and altar was the detour church, St Maria de Eunentes (st Mary of 100 doors). Very cool. No one knows who built it in 1170, and has features that represent pagan, Muslim, Jewish and Christian religions. There are 33 outdoor arches, an arched entrance door, 33 arches inside and an arched altar. You are supposed to walk the outside 3 times and then enter the arched door to get your 100 doors. Apparently 33 is a powerful number in all the religions I listed above. I walked it once because, well, tired. It had been 16 miles and that hill already.

    Time for bed    Läs mer

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