RWC Cup France 2023

setembro - outubro 2023
We return to France 16 years after we last went there for a Rugby World Cup. Not sure what the rugby has in store but we intend to enjoy Burgundy, Beaujolais, The French Alps, Normandy and the Northern battlefields. Leia mais
  • 34pegadas
  • 3países
  • 43dias
  • 315fotos
  • 10vídeos
  • 14,8kquilômetros
  • 10,8kquilômetros
  • Dia 23

    Chamonix Day 2

    29 de setembro de 2023, França ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today we went to Augille de Midi (needle at midday) - a cable car ride to a solitary rock pinnacle that rises to 3842m. It still holds the record as the highest vertical ascent cable car in the world, from 1,035 to 3,842 m - as you can imagine when you step out you feel a bit hypoxic - because you are! It’s hard to describe because you arrive on a block of rock and then cross a bridge across a void into a tunnel bored into the mountain top. Inside are various tunnels leading to viewing platforms and then an elevator which takes you to the top. From there you can line up to “step into the void” - a perspex box built out over a 800m drop!
    The vista looks out over the entire Mount Blanc massif of the Alps stretching from Switzerland to Italy. In winter you can ski from here all the way to the bottom of the valley!
    There were rock climbers and paraskiers ( skiers using parachutes to help navigate the higher rocky areas) out on the rocks and the slopes.
    Again just look at the pictures.
    Leia mais

  • Dia 24

    Alpine drive

    30 de setembro de 2023, França ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    The last three days have been basically driving from A to B to fulfill our time table. However this first day was spectacular as we drove along the alpine way between ( and into) Italy and France. Leaving Chamonix we headed out among the towering massif peaks and then into the 11.7 km Mont Blanc tunnel - and a 51 Euro toll! Sydney drivers take note! This popped us out into the Aosta valley in Italy. A quick espresso in La Thuile and we headed back into France via more tolls to Val D’Isere - world renowned ski resort and I can see why, So many runs on every hill and mountain for miles as we started up switchback by switchback to the highest sealed mountain pass in Europe - Col L’Iseran at 2770m - hair raising drive but spectacular views. One more detour into Italy - and another 51 Euro tunnel toll ( about $70 AUD) and drove onto our final destination Briancon - another walled medival town - where we spent the night before bravely moving onto our final Rugby match - TBC!Leia mais

  • Dia 27

    St Etienne to Bayeux

    3 de outubro de 2023, França ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Yesterday we left St Etienne to drive to Lyon to drop our travelling companions Peter and Vanessa off at the railway as they are now heading home - sad to see them go after three great weeks.
    Then we had 720 km drive to Bayeux and we had to be at our B & B by 7pm and a car crash on the motorway to Lyon had put us back an hour plus we had to change cars so didn’t leave Lyon until 10:30. Luckily it was nearly all motorway so cruise control on 130 km/hr (the speed limit) and made it with 30 minutes to spare - after another motorway car crash to had us diverted for a while.
    Absolutely lovely old house with only two other guest rooms and central to all the sights and eateries in town by 10 minutes walk.
    Headed straight to the famous Bayeux tapestry first thing to beat the crowds. Quite an amazing experience to see such an ancient work of artistry in good condition - it is actually embroidery and the colours are still vibrant. At 70 metres long it is housed in a room that allows one way traffic to view the story of Harold and William - so detailed and depicts everyday life as well as royalty and battles. Not allowed to take pictures so you’ll just have to look online!
    Then a walk around the old town and then to another museum for the other important war story around here - D Day and the Battle for Normandy 1944. We haven’t noticed many American tourists up till now but Bayeux is mainly all Americans - this area is to them what the Northern front is to Aussies I suppose. The museum is very detailed and well set out to keep your interest.
    Tomorrow we will head off to landing beaches and hopefully some Normandy oysters!
    Leia mais

  • Dia 28

    Normandy DDay American (West) Beaches

    4 de outubro de 2023, França ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Bayeux is perfectly positioned between the two American landing beaches to the west - Utah and Omaha (very original) and the three eastern British ( Gold and Sword) and Canadian (Juno) beaches.
    We decided to head west today and our first stop was the only still intact German gun battery at Longues-sur-Mer. There is a command post and four reinforced pill boxes with 150mm long range artillery piece. Set back about 500m from the cliffs they had a range of 19.5 kms! However due to intense bombing by air and then sea they didn’t have much impact on DDay (6th June 1944) and they were taken by British troops on the 7th June. Awesome and horrific all at the same time - you find yourself admiring the engineering and then you remember what they were made for - death and destruction.
    Next stop was Omaha Beach - the scene of terrible American casualties on the first day - a stretch of nearly 7km of open flat beach facing a small plateau of land before hills. The Germans had razed all the village buildings along the seaside and fortified it all with machine gun nests, cannon emplacements, barbed wire and mines, and three metre wide anti tank trenches. The first and second wave of infantry were cut to pieces mostly in the water and on the beach - the third wave finally breached the defences and turned the tide. By nightfall they had suffered 2400 deaths but had landed 34000 troops. I realised that this is the American equivalent to our Galliopi in terms of what it means to them - only they had Eisenhower and Montgomery in charge compared to us having Churchill!
    Lastly - because you have to be selective as there are so many sites and museums - we went to a site of unprecedented daring and courage . La Pointe du Hoc is a high promontory between Omaha and Utah beaches that had six 150mm artillery pieces that could reach both of the American landing beaches and the landing craft. So it was aerial bombed five times in the lead up - see archival photo - and the Germans expected a land attack from the Allies. However an elite US group - The Rangers - trained on the Isle of Man to come in by boat, launch rocket propelled grappling hooks with rope and rope ladders onto the 35m cliffs and scale up and surprise attack. Great plan except the ropes got soaked by sea water and were too heavy to launch from the boats so had to be unloaded at the base and launched by which time the Germans saw them - so they are climbing up whilst be shot at. Amazingly they scaled the cliffs in ten minutes and then two days of combat ensured before they overran the German post - only 150m from the cliff! 135 Rangers died.
    After all this we needed to relax a bit so we headed north to a harbour town to have a late lunch of some legendary Normandy oysters - magnificent and washed down with local cider which again is Normandy specialty.
    Sorry for the essay but the whole experience was very profound and sad because once again we are witnessing the same in Ukraine because of another megalomaniac.
    Leia mais

  • Dia 29

    Le Mont-Saint-Michel

    5 de outubro de 2023, França ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    After the Eiffel Tower, Le Mont-Saint-Michel has to be one of France’s most recognised, and visited, sites. It stands a kilometre off shore in the tidal estuary of the Couesnon river. A causeway wasn’t built until the 1800’s.
    It is built on a small rocky island - apparently after the archangel Michel appeared to the Bishop of the neighbouring city in a dream in 708 (His skull remains in the nearby cathedral with a hole in it where the angel touched it! True!). What began as a sanctuary for pilgrims became a Benedictine abbey in the 10th C - by the 14th C it grew to occupy the entire island (and double it’s height). It became an impregnable stronghold in the Hundred Years war but after the French Revolution it was sacked and turned into a prison which remained until 1863 when Napoleon III restored it to a national monument and restoration has continued to this day.
    As you approach the tidal flats it suddenly appears like a mirage from a fantasy RPG computer game - it takes your breath away even though you’ve seen pictures of it before.
    The tide was going out when we arrived so the muddy quicksand was visible all around. The Abbey is enormous built on three levels with multiple halls,chapels and crypts but no decorations as they were removed by the revolutionaries. A very informative audio guide provided a fascinating walk through for several hours.
    We lucked upon a mass in progress in the main church with nuns singing - see videos. As always it’s difficult to show the magnitude and magnificence of such a structure in photos but I tried.
    Leia mais

  • Dia 30

    Arromanches to Etretat

    6 de outubro de 2023, França ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    After a relaxing four days in Bayeux we left today for Etretat further west on the Normandy coastline. We visited Arromanches - the village on Gold beach, one of the British Invasion sites and the site of a military marvel code named Mulberry. The problem for the Allies was that all the deep water harbours like Cherbourg or Le Havre were incredibly fortified so instead of attacking them on DDay they built - over two years - two portable harbours that they towed across in pieces and assembled at Gold and Omaha beaches. This consisted of an outer breakwater of scuttled ships then a line of large reinforced concrete caissons inside that were sunk in place once they arrived. Then they placed small sections of spans on top and across to each one to make roadways to the beach from the off loading ships. Impossible to explain the magnitude of this enterprise - look at the first archival picture of the completed harbour.
    We passed through some more wartime sites of the Airborne British Squadrons before heading to Etretat which is village set in a lovely bay on the ocean amongst the white cliffs of the Alabaster Coast - but more of that tomorrow.
    Leia mais

  • Dia 32

    The Cliffs of Etretat - Alabaster Coast

    8 de outubro de 2023, França ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    We have had two wonderful days in the village of Etretat on the Normandy coast. We weren’t sure what to expect here but it has exceed our hopes - so much so I will break up our blog into three sections: The Alabaster Coast, The Jardin D’Etretat, and Le Dojon Gastronomic Experience.

    The Alabaster Coast, or Côte d'Albâtre in French, is a striking 80 mile stretch of the Normandy coastline made of magnificent white chalk cliffs and pebble beaches. Geologically similar to the cliffs at Dover, the Alabaster Coast forms the sea edge of a chalk plateau known as the Pays de Caux.

    The area has provided writers and artists, especially the impressionists, with great inspiration. Monet, Sisley and many other impressionist artists painted canvases here.

    We did walks south and north admiring the cliffs and solitary pinnacles under blue skies and calm seas. Perfect area for kayaks and SUPs. Fantastic 18 hole golf course along the cliffs as well.
    Leia mais

  • Dia 32

    Jardins d’Etretat

    8 de outubro de 2023, França ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    An unexpected jewel was this garden/sculpture park on the northern hillside of Etretat. In 1903 Madame Thebaualt, a belle epoque actress of some repute, started a garden here below her house. Monet, amongst others, painted the cliffs and beach from this viewpoint. In 2015 the garden was reconceptualised and restructured as an experiment in new techniques of sculptural plant trimming. Then they placed modern sculptures amongst the plantings - the result is a stunning juxtaposition of art and nature.
    It’s such a pleasure to have no expectations when one visits somewhere and then to be overwhelmed by what you experience.
    Leia mais

  • Dia 32

    Le Donjon Michelin star Birhday Dinner

    8 de outubro de 2023, França ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Foodies only need to read this!
    We had Jane’s birthday dinner a couple of days early as there was a Michelin star restaurant in Etretat in a beautiful hotel in the hill above the town so we had a view over the ocean and cliffs. The chef is a young local who only uses Normandy produce and only vegetables and seafood.
    An eight course degustation menu ended up twelve courses;

    1) French onion cheese ball dipped in beetroot
    Whelks with aioli
    Oyster with apple and cucumber juice emulsion.

    2) ”Scrambled eggs” on haddock tartare

    3) Bread with sumac and seaweed butter

    4) Celeriac, Parmesan, Foie gras and mushrooms

    5) Langoustine, Caviar and Seaweed

    6) Scallop with mayonnaise and seaweed

    7) Quince with apple and seaweed ice cream with Benedictine liqueur

    8) Lobster with vegetables and lobster bisque

    9) Salad and cheeses

    10) Marshmallow and lemon juice

    11) Birthday dish - grapefruit sorbet with olive tapenade plus biscuit

    12] Fig jam noisettes
    Chocolate Gold leaf mousse
    Leia mais