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Ahmet Erkun
Ahmet Erkun

Ahmet Erkun

traveled in 75 countries Read more
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  • RTW Redux ... 2023
    CD Ray reading Atatürk's Letter to the Mothers — Aboard Insignia.

    ANZAC Remembrance Service

    April 25, 2023, The Gulf ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    This morning, as we spend our morning at sea en route to Dubai, CD Ray conducted the ANZAC remembrance service on deck 9. In attendance were 30 passengers, mostly from Australia and New Zealand — the two countries that formed the corps — and two Turks … Mui and me.

    This is the second such service we have attended, the first one being on RTW2017. CD Ray did a great job.

    The service consisted of the reading of the Ode, the playing of the Last Post, and the reading by CD Ray of Atatürk’s Letter to the Mothers of the ANZAC soldiers who lost their lives in Gallipoli. We wrapped up with a group recitation of “In Flanders Field,” a poem written by John McCrae in 1914, and the Lord’s Prayer.

    A very moving remembrance ceremony.    Read more

  • RTW Redux ... 2023
    The Muscat Gate and Museum — Muscat, Oman.
    The Muscat Gate and Museum — Muscat, Oman.Tile mural ... with scenes of traditional and modern Oman — Muscat, Oman.Mosques as we make our way from the museum to Murray — Muscat, Oman.Beach on the Corniche — Muscat, Oman.Beach on the Corniche — Muscat, Oman.Glimpse of the Riyam Memorial Incense Burner from the Corniche — Muscat, Oman.Insignia and the sultan's mega yachts across the way — Muscat, Oman.Statue on the Corniche — Muscat, Oman.Statue on the Corniche — Muscat, Oman.Statue and a shade shelter on the Corniche — Muscat, Oman.Murray Fort — Muscat, Oman.

    Muscat: An Unexpected Stroll

    April 24, 2023 in Oman ⋅ ⛅ 90 °F

    When we left the National Museum, there were no taxis to be had. Anywhere.

    Spotting a public bus across the road, we walked over to see if it was going to Mutrah. No can do. It was going in the opposite direction.

    We already knew that car-sharing services like Uber did not operate here. What to do?

    Hoping to flag down a cab along the way, we decided to stroll toward Mutrah. Walk and walk and walk we did. The few taxis that passed us already had fares. So, we kept going, seeking shade where we could. At least the first part of our walk was along a boulevard with shade trees. But once we passed through the Muscat Gate, the Corniche afforded no such respite. Luckily, we had our hats for shade and water to keep us hydrated.

    Along the way, we came across a few places of interest.

    The Muscat Gate Museum was one of them. The museum straddles the road between the Old Walled City and the Corniche. Lonely Planet writes that it “… with the original gates that were used until the 1970s to keep land-bound marauders out, marks the position of the old city wall and introduces Muscat proper.” It apparently affords some nice views of the area. Unfortunately, it was closed for “Qailulah” … aka midday-napping … common hereabouts during the hottest part of the day.

    Similarly, the Riyam Memorial Incense Burner — built in honor of Oman’s 20th National Day — also affords great views. Or so I had read. But having given up on transportation, we figured we should keep going instead of dallying.

    You can bet that we were very happy when we spotted the arched entrance to the Mutrah Souq. Even better, there was a shuttle back to the port just about to leave. Excellent timing.

    A tepid shower was first on our minds when we got to our cabin. Followed quickly by food and cold refreshments. Followed then by putting up our weary feet until it was time for Insignia’s 5:00p sailaway. Well deserved after a 3-mile walk in the middle of the day, IMHO.

    When we visited Omani ports on RTW2017, we were very impressed with the cities and the country. We saw nothing today to change our mind. We would still like to return for a land-based visit. The question is how to fit it into our busy travel calendar.    Read more

  • RTW Redux ... 2023
    National Museum ... Untitled painting by Anwar Sonya — Muscat, Oman
    The main foyer of the National Museum includes the replica stern of a galleon — Muscat, Oman.National Museum ... al-Bab as-Saghir ... a Muscat gate dated to the 13th century — Muscat, Oman.National Museum ... incense burners — Muscat, Oman.National Museum ... traditional costumes — Muscat, Oman.Silver Janbiya (curved, double edged dagger) on a woven belt (circa 1750-1850) & a parrying shield.National Museum ... the great fort @ ar-Rustaq is the second largest in the country — Muscat, OmanThe National Emblem stands as a reminder of the historic battles waged to build the peaceful nation.National Museum ... Badan Sayyad ... a vessel used by fishermen along the coast (19th century).National Museum ... Kamal (khashabah) set ... used to measure the altitudes of stars — Muscat, Oman.National Museum ... warp straps used for camels — Muscat, Oman.National Museum ... Men's caps (kimēm) ... 21st century — Muscat, Oman.National Museum ... 20th century lizard skin carrying bag (ukkah) for ghee and honey — Muscat, Oman.National Museum ... more than 50,000 Bronze-Age tombs once covered the Oman Peninsula.Full scale reproduction of Hajj Mal Allah Muradani's house rochen ... a coastal architectural style.Key of Sana'a ... presented by Ali A. Saleh, former President of Yemen, to the late Sultan Qaboos.National Museum — Saidi-style turban of the late Sultan Qaboos bin Said — Muscat, Oman.Original will letter of Sultan Qaboos recommending his successor, Sayyid Haitham bin Tarik.National Museum — Muscat, Oman.National Museum ... Dignity by Ruqaya bint Juma al-Siyabi — Muscat, Oman.

    Muscat: National Museum

    April 24, 2023 in Oman ⋅ ⛅ 90 °F

    The walk from the palace complex to the National Museum of Oman was not all that long. But by the time we walked up the steps and entered the museum, we were grateful for the cool A/C.

    Though free admission is granted to senior citizens, that does not extend to foreign visitors. No matter. The admission wasn’t all that expensive anyway —just OMR 5 per person (~$12.50pp). We paid up and entered the first gallery … and knew immediately that the cost of admission was going to be well worth it.

    Established in 2013, the museum is described on the website as “… the Sultanate’s flagship cultural institution, showcasing the nation’s heritage from the earliest evidence of human settlement in the Oman Peninsula through to the present day.”

    Housed in the purpose-designed building constructed by royal decree, the collections focus on “… objects created in Oman, or which carry a particular connection with the cultural heritage of Oman.” The 7,000+ objects in the museum’s inventory are grouped as Crafts Industries, Architectural Heritage, Archaeological Findings, Works on Paper, Applied Arts, Maritime Heritage, Fine Arts, State Gifts, and more.

    We spent a good hour and a half at the museum. And could have spent a great deal longer. Except that it started getting quite crowded … and noisy with a couple of school groups amongst the visitors as well.

    Time for us to head back to Mutrah. Turns out that was easier said than done!    Read more

  • RTW Redux ... 2023
    Government & Al Alam Palace Complex — Muscat, Oman.
    Through the archway in the colonnaded arcade we glimpse the Ali Musa Mosque — Muscat, Oman.Royal Court Affairs Office and Al Mirani Fortress in the background — Muscat, Oman.Panorama of the Government & Palace Complex — Muscat, Oman.Al Alam Palace — Muscat, Oman.Al Alam Palace — Muscat, Oman.Al Alam Palace — Muscat, Oman.Al Alam Palace — Muscat, Oman.The national emblem of Oman ... the Janbiya Bo Sayfain ... on the palace gate — Muscat, Oman.Al Mirani Fort ... Government & Palace Complex — Muscat, Oman.Government & Palace Complex ... Watch Towers in the mountains — Muscat, Oman.Government & Palace Complex — Muscat, Oman.The government buildings at the complex are all white — Muscat, Oman.Decorative grille covering at the complex — Muscat, Oman.Government & Palace Complex — Muscat, Oman.Looking down the long driveway with the colonnaded arcades on either side.The building in the center distance is the National Museum — Muscat, Oman.

    Muscat: Qaṣr al-ʿAlam

    April 24, 2023 in Oman ⋅ ☁️ 88 °F

    From the Mutrah Fish Market, we hopped in a taxi to our next destination … the National Museum of Oman … in Old Muscat.

    When we arrived at the museum, we were all set to enter. Until, that is, we spotted Al Alam Palace across the street. Yes, we’d stopped there for a photo op in 2017. But we did not have time to wander the grounds at the time. A quick detour to do so was, therefore, in order.

    Qaṣr al-ʿAlam (Al Alam Palace) translates from Arabic as “Palace of the Flag.” It was commissioned by Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said, who ruled the country from 1970 until his death in 2020. On his orders, the new palace was situated in the same place as the one that had been constructed in the early 1800s … between two Portuguese-built forts … Al Mirani and Al Jalali. Completed in 1972, today it serves as a ceremonial palace for official functions.

    Designed by an Indian architect, the style is quite eye catching. The blue and gold columns on the façade add a flamboyant pop of color. The palace is at the top of a long driveway that is lined by colonnaded arcades on either side. It stands behind two ornate wrought iron gates. The national emblem of Oman — the Janbiya Bo Sayfain … adopted in the 18th century as the crest of the Al Said Dynasty — decorates the shields attached to the gates … glinting under the bright sun.

    Al Alam Palace sits within a huge complex of government buildings. These all-white buildings have crenellated rooftops and wooden balconies … in the traditional Omani style. They stand in stark contrast to the colorful palace and the earth-colored forts. The polished tiles on the sidewalks gleam under the sun, reflecting the white buildings back at visitors.

    One cannot enter the palace itself, but you can walk up to the outer gate to take photos. The surrounding government buildings are all off-limits, with guards at the gates. Again, photos are allowed. If there were guards at the palace, they were certainly well-hidden.

    There was no one around when we began wandering the grounds. Not the case by the time we left just 30 minutes later. People were streaming into the complex … tour buses driving into the courtyard for photo ops. I’m glad we went to the palace/government complex when we did.    Read more

  • RTW Redux ... 2023
    A unique minaret ... Talib bin Mohammed Mosque — Muscat, Oman.
    White-washed building on one of the back streets — Muscat, Oman.A pop of blue — Muscat, Oman.One of the many guard towers in the Hajar Mountains — Muscat, Oman.A beautifully carved door in need of TLC — Muscat, Oman.We enter the Mutrah Souq by way of a side entrance — Muscat, Oman.The flag of Oman is the inspiration for this storefront — Muscat.Shops setting up for a day of brisk business ... Mutrah Souq — Muscat, Oman.Shop steps decorated with glass evil eyes for good luck ... Mutrah Souq — Muscat, Oman.Glass dome ... Mutrah Souq — Muscat, Oman.Omani flags and banners featuring the current sultan .. Mutrah Souq — Muscat, Oman.Looking out through the main entrance of Mutrah Souq — Muscat, Oman.Main entrance of the Mutrah Souq from the Corniche — Muscat, Oman.Mutrah Corniche ... tile minaret and dome of the Masjid Al Rasool Al A'dham — Muscat, Oman.Along the Mutrah Corniche — Muscat, Oman.Along the Mutrah Corniche — Muscat, Oman.Along the Mutrah Corniche — Muscat, Oman.Along the Mutrah Corniche ... the Fish Roundabout — Muscat, Oman.The Mutrah Fish Market — Muscat, Oman.Mosaic murals at the Mutrah Fish Market — Muscat, Oman.

    Muscat: Morning Stroll in the City

    April 24, 2023 in Oman ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    Our first time in Muscat was on RTW2017. On that occasion, we did a private tour that took us first to some of the sights in the city — the imposing Sultan Qaboos Mosque and the Mutrah Souq … a quick photo op at Al Alam Palace. Then, we traveled into the mountains to see an oasis in a wadi (valley).

    So, this time we decided to stay in the city and freestyle our sightseeing. (Thanks Kadi for the new term for DIY sightseeing.)

    We knew the forecast called for a high of 90F. It was already 83F at 7:30a. No time to dally. As soon as we were tied up at 8:00a, we hot-footed it off the ship. A few others were heading out early as well. With enough of us to fill the small shuttle bus to the Mutrah Souk, the driver had no reason to wait until 8:30a to depart. Excellent.

    Since we had wandered through the very busy souq in 2017, we didn’t go inside when the shuttle bus dropped us off at the entrance. Instead, we started wandering the narrow back streets and alleys. Businesses were still closed. Very few locals were anywhere to be seen. Peaceful. We enjoyed our glimpse into the “locals’ side of the city.”

    Eventually, our steps took us back to the souq. Not because we wanted to shop … which was a good thing since most of the shops were closed … just a few of them setting up for a day of brisk business. Rather, we wanted to use the narrow, covered walkways in the souq as a shortcut to the Mutrah Corniche along the waterfront.

    Once we reached the waterfront, we turned in the direction of the port for a quiet stroll. Our destination was the Mutrah FishMarket. Mui likes the hubbub of local markets. But he was in for a disappointment today. It was still too early; the day’s catch had not arrived. A few fish stalls were doing business, but most were closed. Nonetheless, we were impressed with how pristine the counters were … indeed the entire space. And I loved seeing all the sea-themed mosaic murals decorating the walls.    Read more

  • RTW Redux ... 2023
    Al Alam Palace Complex with Al Jalali (left) and Al Mirani Fort — Muscat, Oman.
    A closer look at Al Alam Palace — Muscat, Oman.Al Mirani Fort — Muscat, Oman.Riyam Memorial is shaped like an incense burner — Muscat, Oman.Riyam Memorial — Muscat, Oman.Al Riyam Park — Muscat, Oman.The Hajar Mountains serve as a backdrop to the city — Muscat, Oman.Mutrah Fort — Muscat, Oman.The pink arch marks the entrance to the Mutrah Souq — Muscat, Oman.Cityscape along the Mutrah Corniche — Muscat, Oman.Cityscape — Muscat, Oman.The sultan's yachts at Port Sultan Qaboos — Muscat, Oman.

    Welcome to Muscat, Oman

    April 24, 2023 in Oman ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    As a friend likes to say, today we “freestyled” in Muscat. But that story is for another post.

    In the meantime, here is the scenery as we approached Muscat, following the coast from Al Jalali Fort, Al Alam Palace Complex, Al Mirani Fort, Riyam Memorial, Mutrah Corniche, and finally to our berth at Port Sultan Qaboos. All of it against a backdrop of the jagged Hajar Mountains.Read more

  • RTW Redux ... 2023
    1All but the small piece on the far right is Mui's work — Aboard Insignia.
    Dinner with Emghil in Toscana — Aboard Insignia.

    At Sea

    April 23, 2023, Arabian Sea ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    A quiet, relaxing day at sea. At present we are continuing towards Muscat, Oman … sailing through a storm that had thunder booming and lightning sparking across the night sky.

    The segment-end art exhibit was held today. I went up to take a look at the offerings. Mui submitted four pieces … all very different from each other. I overheard several people commenting that they liked his work. That’s a great compliment considering he’s only been painting since 15 January … and only when we are at sea.

    Tonight we were hosted for dinner in Toscana by our friend Emghil Hasan. He is the Destinations Manager and joined Insignia in Cape Town. We’ve known him for a couple of years now and it is always great when our paths cross at sea.    Read more

  • RTW Redux ... 2023

    Salalah, Oman

    April 22, 2023 in Oman ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    With today’s port call in Salalah, we have arrived in the Middle East.

    Alas, I have no story to tell you.

    You see, we did a wonderful tour here in 2017 that took us to see most of the highlights. This time, we wanted to visit the Al Baleed Archaeological Museum, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The ruins in the park belong to the ancient city of Z̧afār, which was an important port for frankincense trade during the medieval times.

    We got as far as arranging for a driver recommended by a fellow Find Penguins blog writer. Then we found out that the museum is closed on Saturdays … a closure complicated further by the fact that Eid al-Fitr is being celebrated in Oman at this time … a three-day holiday that marks the end of the Muslim holy fasting month of Ramadan.

    We considered alternatives but nothing piqued our curiosity. We also knew that the city would be pretty-much dead due to the holiday. So, we stayed on the ship.

    The good news is that we now have plans in place for all of the replacement ports that have been added due to the cancelation of our call on Myanmar. Our day was a productive one.

    Even better, we had dinner with friends Kadi & Brad and Geraldine & Thomas tonight, which made for a delightful end to our day.    Read more

  • RTW Redux ... 2023
    Sunrise sailing the Arabian Sea — Aboard Insignia.

    At Sea

    April 21, 2023, Arabian Sea ⋅ 🌙 84 °F

    Day 3 of three days at sea.

    A quiet day cruising the Arabian Sea … with Mui capturing a colorful sunrise when he went up to the Terrace Café for his wake-up java.

  • RTW Redux ... 2023
    RTW Brunch in the Grand Dining Room -- Aboard Insignia.
    RTW Brunch in the Grand Dining Room -- Aboard Insignia.RTW Brunch in the Grand Dining Room -- Aboard Insignia.RTW Brunch in the Grand Dining Room -- Aboard Insignia.RTW Brunch in the Grand Dining Room -- Aboard Insignia.With Younga & David ... RTW Brunch in the Grand Dining Room -- Aboard Insignia.RTW Brunch in the Grand Dining Room -- Aboard Insignia.

    At Sea: RTW Brunch

    April 20, 2023, Indian Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    Day 2 of three days at sea.

    Another day of R&R. Except that we were a bit more active today. We’re both feeling better.

    Today we enjoyed our second RTW brunch … beautifully presented … delicious food … good conversation with great friends.Read more

  • RTW Redux ... 2023

    Itinerary Change #16: No Myanmar

    April 19, 2023, Indian Ocean ⋅ 🌙 84 °F

    It’s finally official. We won’t be going to Myanmar! Luckily, we did stop there for three days in 2017, so we’ve seen the highlights in and around Yangon and Bago.

    It was mid-morning when I heard the P/A chime. I didn’t think anything of it, however, as CD Ray usually has a morning announcement to review the daily program.

    Seconds later, I caught the tail end of a sentence that included the words “Myanmar” and “canceled.” I rushed in from the veranda to get the details of a cancelation that came as no surprise. We’ve been expecting this since there is a level 4 travel advisory against the country. The question was what would we be doing instead. It wasn’t just three days in Myanmar that were at issue. There were the three sea days to get there that needed to be worked out as well.

    Ray gave us a quick synopsis of the changes, which included switching some sea days around and adding ports of call in Port Blair, on India’s South Andaman Island; Sabang, Indonesia; Langkawi, Malaysia; and an extra day in Phuket, Thailand with an overnight stay. Three new-to-us ports; one repeat port. Kudos to Oceania for pulling together an itinerary that did not simply increase the number of days we have at sea on the upcoming segment.

    Now, to come up with plans for these new ports. The good news is that I was so sure Myanmar would be a no-go that I did not plan anything there. At least I have no plans to cancel with this go around of itinerary changes.    Read more

  • RTW Redux ... 2023
    Calm and quiet -- Aboard Insignia.

    At Sea: Northern Hemisphere Again

    April 19, 2023, Indian Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Day 1 of three days at sea heading north to the Arabian Peninsula.

    Woke up to calm seas. Not glassy-smooth like it was last night, but smooth nonetheless. The ripples created by Insignia cleaving through the ocean added a sense of movement.

    We were at breakfast at the Terrace Café when we crossed back into the Northern Hemisphere this morning. No bump … no nothing to herald the occasion. This is our fourth crossing of this voyage. If I calculated correctly, there are two more to go.

    We’re using these three days at sea to really rest up and put the respiratory crud that’s hit us both behind us. We were so relaxed that, I even spaced out tonight’s Oceania Club Party. So, no stats for this segment.    Read more

  • RTW Redux ... 2023
    Our farewell Africa sunset -- Aboard Insignia.

    Bye Bye Africa

    April 18, 2023, Indian Ocean ⋅ 🌙 86 °F

    With our stops in Seychelles completed, we are leaving Africa behind … with a glorious sunset and a glassy-smooth Indian Ocean.

    Coming up in a few days’ time … the Arabian Peninsula and the Middle East.Read more

  • RTW Redux ... 2023
    Seascape in B&W ... En Route to La Digue, Seychelles.
    Scenery from the tender pier — La Digue, Seychelles.Husking a coconut @ L'Union Estate Park — La Digue, Seychelles.Kiln for drying coprah @ L'Union Estate Park — La Digue, Seychelles.Milling coprah for coconut oil @ L'Union Estate Park — La Digue, Seychelles.Plantation House @ L'Union Estate Park — La Digue, Seychelles.Plantation House @ L'Union Estate Park — La Digue, Seychelles.Aldabra tortoise @ L'Union Estate Park — La Digue, Seychelles.Anse Source D'Argent — La Digue, Seychelles.Anse Source D'Argent — La Digue, Seychelles.Anse Source D'Argent — La Digue, Seychelles.Anse Source D'Argent — La Digue, Seychelles.Anse Source D'Argent — La Digue, Seychelles.Anse Source D'Argent (from the water towards the beach) — La Digue, Seychelles.Anse Source D'Argent — La Digue, Seychelles.Anse Source D'Argent — La Digue, Seychelles.Anse Source D'Argent — La Digue, Seychelles.Anse Source D'Argent — La Digue, Seychelles.Color of the water at the tender pier — La Digue, Seychelles.Seascape from ship to shore — La Digue, Seychelles.Seascape from ship to shore — La Digue, Seychelles.Shades of blue Anse Source D'Argent — La Digue, Seychelles.

    La Digue, Seychelles

    April 18, 2023 on the Seychelles ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    New-to-us port #38.

    Mui woke up feeling really under the weather. That same non-COVID crud that laid me low for a day or two last week. A day of rest was in order.

    We scrapped our plans to go to Anse Patates. Instead, he went to bed and I went to Destinations to see if they could accommodate me on the 9:45a departure of the La Digue Highlights Tour. The answer was yes.

    The tour started with a ride from the tender pier through the small town of La Passe on a camionette … think open air truck with benches in the truck bed for passengers. The tour escort pointed out the hospital, the school, the Catholic Church, and the site where a new, more modern hospital is being constructed. No stops. Nothing to really see anyway.

    At the southern end of La Digue is L’Union Estate Park. Formerly a coconut and vanilla plantation, this was our destination. Our escort led us to two young ladies and explained that they would be taking us on a tour of the plantation, starting with a coconut husking demonstration. This is where things became weird.

    Upon learning that we’d be walking for about 30-40 minutes around the plantation, two or three people said that they did not want to do the tour. Instead, they wanted to go to the beach that was mentioned in the description. The beach was on the plantation property, so one of the young ladies started to escort those people to a small truck that would take them to the beach. The next thing we knew, only four of us were left behind to do the tour with Zoe!!! Alrighty then.

    As we wandered around the plantation, we followed the various steps in the production of coprah … the dried white flesh of the coconut. Once the husk is removed, the nut is broken open and placed in the kiln to dry. During the process, the flesh shrinks, making it very easy to remove it from the nut. Next, the flesh is milled to produce coconut oil. We saw the original mill, which was operated by an ox, but the process has been replaced by a modern mill that is operated by a motor. I later read that to make one pail of coconut oil 35 kilos of coprah must be milled, a process that takes two hours.

    The plantation house was our final stop here. The house is considered to be a symbol of La Digue. One of the oldest examples of French colonial architecture in Seychelles, it was once the home of a Mauritian family. Zoe said that nine different types of wood were used in the construction, but that the most popular woods are coconut, mahogany, and takamaka.

    We wrapped up the tour by going to see the giant Aldabra tortoises in their outdoor pen. These long-lived tortoises are legally protected in Seychelles. It is estimated that they can live up to 250 years, though that is hard to prove since no one person has lived that long to verify it. Zoe said that the ones in the pen were around 90 years old.

    Hopping back in a camionette, we were then taken to Anse Source D’Argent, an amazingly beautiful beach where massive granite boulders add character to the scenery. A band of lush vegetation provides shade along the edge of the white sand beach … the water is pristine and warm. The best scenery is from the water looking back towards land. Alas, I wasn’t willing to risk walking out with my phone in hand, so my photos are from the beach looking out (with one exception).

    We had almost two hours at the beach. It was comfortable enough in the shade, but under the sun it was brutally hot. I found a spot to leave my bag and went in for a dip a few times to cool off. All too soon, it was time to return to where the camionettes were waiting to take us back to the tender pier.

    This was a beach Mui would have loved. I’m sorry he wasn’t able to enjoy it today. Perhaps someday we will return to enjoy more of Seychelles on a land-based trip.    Read more

  • RTW Redux ... 2023
    Anse Beau Vallon -- Mahé, Seychelles.
    Anse Beau Vallon -- Mahé, Seychelles.Anse Beau Vallon -- Mahé, Seychelles.

    Mahé, Seychelles

    April 17, 2023 on the Seychelles ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

    New-to-us port #37.

    Insignia arrived at today’s port of call in Seychelles around 1:00p and made its way to the commercial port in Victoria. By 1:45p, the ship was not only tied up, but cleared as well … a green carpet extending from the gangway … with plants on either side to welcome us.

    Shortly thereafter, we were off the ship with Sonia & Boris and Younga & David … and negotiating with a driver to take us to Anse Beau Vallon, one of the most popular beaches on Mahé Island. Ten minutes later, we were on the long, crescent shaped beach, digging our toes into the silky white sand. Another ten minutes, and we were set with lounge chairs under the takamaka trees.

    The surf was light. The sun moving in and out of the clouds. Liquid sunshine falling occasionally. The water wasn’t as crystal clear as it might be on a day when there are no waves, but we didn’t let it deter us from going in for a dip … once, twice, thrice. Yes, even I took advantage of the warm water to go swimming this time.

    We would love to have stayed on the beach for dinner at one of the restaurants, but our driver wasn’t willing to extend his time beyond 6:00p. None of us were yet ready for a sit down dinner. So, we grabbed some shrimp and calamari from the food truck to enjoy on the beach before it was time to pack up and return to Insignia.

    Tonight, we’ll remain docked in Victoria. Sometime in the wee hours of tomorrow morning, however, we’ll throw off the lines and Insignia will take us a short distance to La Digue, our second port of call in Seychelles … a bit of paradise on earth.    Read more

  • RTW Redux ... 2023
    Mui captures sunrise this morning -- Aboard Insignia.

    At Sea … Part of the Day

    April 17, 2023, Indian Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    The distance between Madagascar and the Seychelles is such that in addition to being at sea all day yesterday, we need this morning and part of this afternoon to get there.

    Enjoying the peaceful nature of being at sea.Read more

  • RTW Redux ... 2023
    Welcome to Nosy Be, Madagascar.
    Tuk-tuk ride to Lemuria Land — Nosy Be, Madagascar.Chameleon @ Lemuria Land — Nosy Be, Madagascar.Enjoying the company of tortoises @ Lemuria Land — Nosy Be, Madagascar.1Lemur @ Lemuria Land — Nosy Be, Madagascar.Bamboo bridge ... Mui and our guide @ Lemuria Land — Nosy Be, Madagascar.Lemurs love bananas @ Lemuria Land — Nosy Be, Madagascar.Lemur @ Lemuria Land — Nosy Be, Madagascar.Ring-tailed Lemurs @ Lemuria Land — Nosy Be, Madagascar.Ring-tailed lemurs @ Lemuria Land — Nosy Be, Madagascar.Lemur @ Lemuria Land — Nosy Be, Madagascar.Lemurs @ Lemuria Land — Nosy Be, Madagascar.Getting friendly with lemurs @ Lemuria Land — Nosy Be, Madagascar.Lemur @ Lemuria Land — Nosy Be, Madagascar.Lemurs @ Lemuria Land — Nosy Be, Madagascar.Seychelles Tortoise @ Lemuria Land — Nosy Be, Madagascar.A big chameleon @ Lemuria Land — Nosy Be, Madagascar.Portrait of a chameleon @ Lemuria Land — Nosy Be, Madagascar.

    Nosy Be, Madagascar

    April 15, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    New-to-us port #36.

    Madagascar = Lemurs. So, there was no doubt in my mind as to what we would be doing when Insignia finally brought us to Nosy Be.

    My initial plan was to do the boat trip that takes visitors to a lemur reserve in the jungle. Then I did a bit more research. It quickly became apparent that with heat and humidity added to the equation, the trek was out of the question for me. I’d melt before we ever got to the lemurs!

    So, we did the next best thing. Together with Sonia and Boris, we hired a couple of tuk-tuks that took us to Lemuria Land. This is a zoological park set on a plantation with ylang ylang trees and mangroves along the river … with several types of the 117 known lemur species roaming freely.

    It is possible to wander around Lemuria Land at your own pace, but we decided to accept the services of a tour guide — tip in addition to the park admission. It turned out to be a smart move as he was able to take us to the lemurs — and other critters, such as tortoises, crocodiles, and chameleons — without wandering aimlessly in the sweltering heat that felt like a sauna.

    In fact, it was so hot and humid that once we accomplished our goal of seeing lemurs, we skipped not just the ylang ylang distillery on the property, but also nixed plans to take the shuttle into town.

    Air conditioning never felt as good as it did today!

    P.S. Signage was in French, so researching the types of lemurs we saw is going to have to wait until I have better internet.    Read more

  • RTW Redux ... 2023
    Plage Musical — Grand Terre ... Mayotte, Comoros.
    Giant Baobab at Plage Musical — Grand Terre ... Mayotte, Comoros.Younga feeding the lemurs @ Plage Ngouja — Grand Terre ... Mayotte, Comoros.Lemurs @ Plage Ngouja — Grand Terre ... Mayotte, Comoros.Lemurs @ Plage Ngouja — Grand Terre ... Mayotte, Comoros.Lemurs @ Plage Ngouja — Grand Terre ... Mayotte, Comoros.Lemurs @ Plage Ngouja — Grand Terre ... Mayotte, Comoros.Plage Ngouja — Grand Terre ... Mayotte, Comoros.Sunset — Mayotte, Comoros.Sunset — Mayotte, Comoros.Sunset — Mayotte, Comoros.

    Mayotte, Comoros

    April 14, 2023 in Mayotte ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    New-to-us port #35.

    Comoros? What? Where?

    This little known “overseas department and region and single territorial collectivity” of France, lies in the Mozambique Channel … between southeastern Africa and northwestern Madagascar. It consists of the islands of Grand and Petite Terre and some tiny islets.

    We tendered to Mamoudzou on Grand Terre, and joining forces with Sonia & Boris and Younga & David, we hopped in a taxi to spend a couple of hours communing with nature at Plage Ngouja.

    Hopping in the taxi was easy. Once negotiations were completed. Getting to the beach? Not so much. A ride that should have taken us an hour took twice as long due to construction in the direction we were traveling. Once past it, we fairly flew down the narrow road … except for slowing down at speed bumps in the towns and villages. The reason we inched along for about an hour was actually a relief as it confirmed that the return to Mamoudzou would not be problematic.

    After a quick photo op at Plage Musical to see what is probably the largest baobab tree of our visit to Africa yet, we arrived at our destination and made our way through a resort built out of cargo containers to the beach.

    No sooner were we in sight of the sand that we spotted lemurs in the trees, on the fence, and on people! The lemurs weren’t aggressive, but where food was involved they weren’t shy about climbing all over you. Younga was the only one in our group brave enough to do feed them as we stood aside and photographed the critters.

    Then, it was time for the snorkelers to don their gear and head out in search of the coral, tropical fish, and turtles that reviews said were a highlight of Plage Ngouja. The rest of us — David and I — found shade under a tree … much welcome, I might add, when the sun deigned to come out.

    Unfortunately for the snorkelers — except for the one turtle Younga saw — there was nothing to see in the water, which was a little murky due to the silt carried down by the recent rains. We later learned that the turtles were in a lagoon on the far side of the beach. At least the Indian Ocean was warm and everyone seemed to enjoy their swim.

    As anticipated, the return drive was uneventful and took just under an hour. By 5:30p, we were on the tender back to Insignia for the 7:00p sailaway. For some reason, however, it was well after 9:00p when we felt the ship finally moving. A mechanical issue? A medical emergency? A delayed tour? We don’t know. Maybe we’ll get some intel tomorrow.    Read more

  • RTW Redux ... 2023

    At Sea

    April 13, 2023, Mozambique Channel ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    Day 2 of two days at sea.

    The best way to recover from this respiratory crud is to rest up. So I pretty much slept through the day. Woke up a little while ago to partake a bit of the chicken consommé Mui brought me from the dining room.

    Back to 😴 again now.

    Fingers crossed tomorrow is a better day.    Read more

  • RTW Redux ... 2023
    Color after the rain squalls — Aboard Insignia.

    At Sea

    April 12, 2023, Mozambique Channel ⋅ 🌙 77 °F

    Day 1 of two days at sea.

    The good news is that it’s not COVID-19.

    The bad news is that I have an upper respiratory infection that is no fun. Some kind of crud that is going around the ship … if all the coughing is any indication.

    The doc prescribed a syrup to start breaking up the congestion. And told me to mask up when wandering around indoors. I’ve taken it a step further and self-quarantined.

    Hopefully, a couple of days of rest will make all the difference.    Read more

  • RTW Redux ... 2023
    Celebrating a milestone birthday with friends — Toscana, Aboard Insignia.
    2Alexandru presents my birthday cake ... carrot with cream cheese frosting as I requested — Toscana.Happy Birthday serenade — Toscana, Aboard Insignia.2We return to the cabin to find it decorated for my birthday — Aboard Insignia.

    Happy Birthday to Me!

    April 11, 2023, Mozambique Channel

    Another birthday celebrated somewhere around the world.

    This time the setting was Maputo, Mozambique. Of course, by the time we actually had the birthday celebration in Toscana — with friends Sonia & Boris and Younga & David — we were already cruising the Indian Ocean towards our next port of call … in two days’ time.

    How old you ask? Let’s just say that I now qualify for medicare in the US … and free public transportation in Türkiye!    Read more

  • RTW Redux ... 2023
    Cruising out of Maputo, Mozambique.
    Cruising out of Maputo, Mozambique.Cruising out of Maputo, Mozambique.Pilot boat getting a washdown — Maputo, Mozambique.

    Bye Bye Maputo

    April 11, 2023 in Mozambique ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    During the sailaway out of Maputo, we saw a different side of the city. More modern.

  • RTW Redux ... 2023
    Hendy, our guide, gives us a primer in Mozambiçan history — Maputo, Mozambique.
    Railway Station — Maputo, Mozambique.Railway Station — Maputo, Mozambique.Memorial to WWI — Maputo, Mozambique.Colorful mural — Maputo, Mozambique.Mancala is a street board game — Maputo, Mozambique.Fortaleza de Maputo — Mozambique.Fortaleza de Maputo — Mozambique.Symbol of the 1974 Lusaka Accord that led to independence in 1975.Model art like this one is used to tell the history of Mozambique.Bronze panel depicting the capture of Ngungunhane — Fortaleza de Maputo, Mozambique.Ngungunhane's casket (replica?) — Fortaleza de Maputo, Mozambique.Detail from the casket of Ngungunhane — Fortaleza de Maputo, Mozambique.Fruit bats at the botanic garden — Maputo, Mozambique.Iron House — Maputo, Mozambique.Cathedral — Maputo, Mozambique.Independence Plaza with Town Hall in the background — Maputo, Mozambique.Colorful mural — Maputo, Mozambique.Central Market — Maputo, Mozambique.

    Maputo, Mozambique

    April 11, 2023 in Mozambique ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    New-to-us port #34.

    Today, we were joined by seven friends for a walking tour of Maputo to see some of the most popular attractions in the capital city.

    Hendy’s “Free Walking Tours” are very popular. Instead of a public tour in return for tips, I had arranged for a private tour for a specific per person price. Having heard that the street hawkers were quite “insistent,” I had also arranged for him to pick us up at the terminal gate instead of the usual meeting point near the Cathedral.

    Running the gauntlet of souvenir hawkers, our tour took us up the street to the beaux-arts style Maputo Railway Station … built by the Portuguese between 1908-1910. The building is #8 on the “most beautiful train stations list.” The dome was constructed in South Africa and assembled in Maputo … a big innovation at the time. There are only three international lines running out of the station, so most of its use is for domestic purposes.

    Walking through the Red Light District, where business at “by-the-hour” hotels goes on 24/7, we next went to the Fortaleza de Maputo. The fortress was built by the Portuguese between 1851-1867. It now serves as a military museum. The various rooms have historic exhibit and also the “memorial casket” of Ngungunhane, the last great chief of the African Kingdom of Gaza during the colonial period. He was captured and sent to the Azores in exile, where he died. What was purported to be his remains were returned to Mozambique when the first post-colonial President of Mozambique visited Lisbon. Although many sources on the internet indicate that the remains are in the casket, I got the impression that what we saw today was a replica of the original one.

    Our walk continued onto the Tunduru Botanic Garden … fairly small and more like a public park. Hendy identified several of the trees as we wandered along the shaded paths of the park. He also showed us the fruit bats that have colonized several of the trees in the park. Then we stopped at the Iron House, designed by Eiffel. The house, which dates back to the late 19th century, has seen varied use, but only for short periods of time because the steel, tin, and iron structure gets too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter.

    The Cathedral was our next stop. And then we followed Hendy across the multiple lanes of the road running around the Independence Plaza to hear a bit more about the war for independence and make the acquaintance of Marechal Samora Machel, the first president of independent Mozambique. He died in an airplane accident … believed to have been an assassination.

    A bit of trivia about the wife of the assassinated president. She later married Mandela. Thus becoming first lady twice … in two different countries.

    We wrapped up our tour with a visit to the Central Market … also known as the Downtown Bazaar. Stalls at the market sell all the usual stuff … groceries, fish, nuts and herbs. But one section is a “hair market” … the biggest of its kind in Africa. Apparently, hair extensions are very popular with African women, and they come from all over to buy them here. No buyers amongst us, but several people purchased bags of cashew. Mui wanted to buy some mangoes. But by then, the group had moved on. Later, however, our friends Kadi and Brad returned to the market and came back with a mango for him. He’s a happy camper. Thank you Kadi and Brad.    Read more

  • RTW Redux ... 2023
    Off to find some animals in the wild — Hluhluwe/Imfolozi Game Reserve, South Africa.
    Beautiful landscape — Hluhluwe/Imfolozi Game Reserve, South Africa.Hluhluwe/Imfolozi Game Reserve, South Africa.African Elephant — Hluhluwe/Imfolozi Game Reserve, South Africa.African Elephant — Hluhluwe/Imfolozi Game Reserve, South Africa.Burchell's Zebra — Hluhluwe/Imfolozi Game Reserve, South Africa.Giraffe — Hluhluwe/Imfolozi Game Reserve, South Africa.Giraffes — Hluhluwe/Imfolozi Game Reserve, South Africa.2Giraffe — Hluhluwe/Imfolozi Game Reserve, South Africa.African Elephant at the water hole — Hluhluwe/Imfolozi Game Reserve, South Africa.African Elephant — Hluhluwe/Imfolozi Game Reserve, South Africa.Cape Buffalo — Hluhluwe/Imfolozi Game Reserve, South Africa.Cape Buffalo — Hluhluwe/Imfolozi Game Reserve, South Africa.Brunch time — Hluhluwe/Imfolozi Game Reserve, South Africa.White Rhino — Hluhluwe/Imfolozi Game Reserve, South Africa.Impala — Hluhluwe/Imfolozi Game Reserve, South Africa.Warthogs — Hluhluwe/Imfolozi Game Reserve, South Africa.Nyala (female) — Hluhluwe/Imfolozi Game Reserve, South Africa.

    Richards Bay, South Africa

    April 10, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    New-to-us port #33.

    Not that we spent our day in Richards Bay. Rather, once the ship was cleared shortly after 6:00a, we headed off on a day safari to Hluhluwe/Imfolozi (or Umfolozi) Game Reserve.

    For the 1¼-hour transfer from the port to the reserve, East Coast Safaris combined our group of 6 with another group of six. We had a 17-seater van that was plenty comfy for the ride. At the park, however, each group had a 10-seater game vehicle to themselves … no one having to sit in the middle is a good thing 😉

    Before setting off on our game drive, coffee, tea, muffins and other goodies were available to tide us over until brunch. Then, we got into our vehicle and took off in search of animals. First down a paved road, and then on dirt spurs that took us deeper into the park.

    The park, which dates back to 1895 — thus making it the oldest of its kind in Africa — is beautiful. Very green … lots of brush and trees. The terrain was varied … hills and flats. The tall brush made finding and seeing animals a challenge at times. Nonetheless, we did pretty good. No lions, though.

    Around 10:30a, we arrived at the picnic area. The tables were set. The food brought out … chicken kabobs, salad, and pasta salad. Beer, wine, and soft drinks were available as well.

    After our tummies were sated, we set off to find some more animals as we slowly made our way back to the entrance to the reserve.

    With all aboard scheduled for 3:00p, we wanted to be back at the port around 2:00p, so we left the reserve at 12:30p. Good thing we did, as we experienced a bit of a delay en route. We were stopped by the traffic police! While the license for the vehicle was good, the certificate that allows it to carry passengers had lapsed by 10 days. The tour operator called the owner of the vehicle and they got it worked out. Whew!

    Upon returning to Insignia we went through the departure immigration formalities. The face-to-face meetings were conducted on the ship and our passports are now with the purser’s office once again for safekeeping.

    All in all … a good day safari!    Read more

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